5UP3RM4N
Well-Known Member
Found a spot for the sticker! Fits right in!
John's Wicked Bloom Room: Powered By Budget LED
- Thread starter John Wick
- Start date
I like your setup @5UP3RM4N awesome job!
Lol now you will have to take a picture of your power box every time you want to showcase @Budget LED logo! The sticker is like a cat. If I fit, I sit!
Lol now you will have to take a picture of your power box every time you want to showcase @Budget LED logo! The sticker is like a cat. If I fit, I sit!
- Thread starter
- #823
John Wick
Well-Known Member
Wow, damn great idea!
I salute you Sir!
Elevated Lighting Company
Well-Known Member
Apologies for the delayed response. For some reason, this forum quits giving notifications after a short period of time.
The lever nut takes some force to open. It's designed that way so once you make the connection, it holds very well. Dont worry, it takes alot of force and a hammer to break them.
- Thread starter
- #825
John Wick
Well-Known Member
Got the lights in on Friday! Finished the install late last night. Good job! @Budget LED These lights are beautiful! Like you guys nailed it. I love these lights lol. These are quality built lights! For a good price. The light brightness/penetration is insane and Budgets customer support has been amazing answering my e-mails and questions very promptly. The packaging was bulletproof. Great workmanship! Thanks Budget!
Here's my setup
I built a remote lighting control board. Something that can be mounted to the wall and relocated fairly easily. Just unplug the LED boards and it can be relocated in a giffy. All i had to put the board on is a shoe rack, so i built it to fit on that. The power goes in to the digital light timer and that runs the two receptacles.
I drilled a couple holes in to a JB cover and mounted the dimmers on them. Once i got the lights on, i put my ammeter on my temp. makeshift pigtail & that helped me label the wattage on the plates. 50, 100, 150, 200, 250. (I'll likely redo this. was in a rush) At full power i get 4.3A@120VAC (516W) from the wall. I did each light individually, their exactly the same. Still have yet to ammprobe the DC side, but i need a new meter.
Used two pieces of shallow strut to elevate the drivers for good airflow. Only running at 250W atm so don't need a fan on the drivers yet, but I'll likely add one off the lighting timer soon. I adjusted the hanging kits a bit just to get more distance and it gives me way more control of the angle if i ever need to use them. I grounded everything from the wall to the heat sinks.
Thanks @John Wick @TurboBucket @Chris Scorpio @Budget LED for helping me fix/solve my lighting! Super happy with the decision to get these puppies!
Wow, F'n beautiful set up!
You've outdone yourself.
Thank you for sharing this with the other members.
I told you that these lights are fantastic and you just made them even better!
I tip my hat to you, Sir!
- Thread starter
- #826
John Wick
Well-Known Member
Found a spot for the sticker! Fits right in!
I'm going to copy cat the way you have your dimmers set up, if you don't mind.
Going to bolt the box of the front side of my steel rack.
Thanks again for sharing.
- Thread starter
- #827
John Wick
Well-Known Member
I think it's so cool how people are sharing how to mount these lights on this thread. I've learned a lot from a couple of people, I thank you for sharing. Please keep them coming folks, let's keep it alive.
That's the best part about this place! People from all walks of life, with all types of knowledge.
Jamers
Well-Known Member
Agree! If it wasn’t for this place I would have lost a Couple crops, some really wonderfully people here.
I will be hooking my drivers up to my hydro x controller in the next few days . I’ll update with some more install pics. Have a good day
5UP3RM4N
Well-Known Member
No problem! Alternatively you can use an 1110 box or an octagon box with a blank cover. I used the 4x4 cus that's just what i had and it gives me the option to add a third one in the future.
5UP3RM4N
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the thread! We're learning lots from you good sir!
5UP3RM4N
Well-Known Member
Eventually when i get a chance i think I'm going to install two pigtails coming out of the board connection JB about 1ft long that go to 15A female twist locks. Those will attach to two 3c#12 with 15A male twist locks & connect to the board wires that i'll cut shorter in the tent with smaller weatherproof connectors. No reason, just want to do it lol.
This is my first project when i first started. Wanted to build something. So this is a heating/cooling unit ran by a thermostat. & a light timer. It goes light timer, timer rec, cooling rec, & heating rec. Gave up on it cus i realized you can buy small heat/cool controllers for like 30 dollars lol.
This is my first project when i first started. Wanted to build something. So this is a heating/cooling unit ran by a thermostat. & a light timer. It goes light timer, timer rec, cooling rec, & heating rec. Gave up on it cus i realized you can buy small heat/cool controllers for like 30 dollars lol.
5UP3RM4N
Well-Known Member
@John Wick
@Gazoo
I've been following your posts about fire safety stuff. It's a little more complicated but I found a relay that can connect to the kidde interconnected smoke detectors which if wired to the coil of a bigger contactor/relay could shut down the power to everything in case the detector goes off.
Smoke Alarm Relay Module SM120X | Kidde
SM120X can be used to activate auxiliary warning devices such as external bells and sirens, hallway or stairway lighting.
www.kidde.com
Gazoo
Member
This is the style I have been using as a complete power shut down in the event of high temps
The HLC-1 by Custom Automated Products protects your garden from overheating. The HLC-1e constantly monitors your garden temperature. If the garden exceeds the temperature that you have set, the HLC-1 turns off your lights so that crop damage will not occur. It then turns on the Temp Exceeded” light to let you know that an overheating situation occurred. When the temperature returns to normal, it will turn your lights back on. It comes with a 15′ remote temperature sensor.
The HLC-1 is rated at 15 amps @ 120 volts. 3 year warranty.
The HLC-1 by Custom Automated Products protects your garden from overheating. The HLC-1e constantly monitors your garden temperature. If the garden exceeds the temperature that you have set, the HLC-1 turns off your lights so that crop damage will not occur. It then turns on the Temp Exceeded” light to let you know that an overheating situation occurred. When the temperature returns to normal, it will turn your lights back on. It comes with a 15′ remote temperature sensor.
The HLC-1 is rated at 15 amps @ 120 volts. 3 year warranty.
5UP3RM4N
Well-Known Member
This is the style I have been using as a complete power shut down in the event of high temps
The HLC-1 by Custom Automated Products protects your garden from overheating. The HLC-1e constantly monitors your garden temperature. If the garden exceeds the temperature that you have set, the HLC-1 turns off your lights so that crop damage will not occur. It then turns on the Temp Exceeded” light to let you know that an overheating situation occurred. When the temperature returns to normal, it will turn your lights back on. It comes with a 15′ remote temperature sensor.
The HLC-1 is rated at 15 amps @ 120 volts. 3 year warranty.
That’s cool! I was looking yesterday to see if they made something with an rtd! That’s it lol Thanks for the info!
Gazoo
Member
Happy do help
They can be a bit expensive New, picked mine up on CL, spent a few days making sure it worked
correctly but saved me a few bucks
Fudo Myoo
Well-Known Member
I’m still recovering for having had to witness that.. Guilty as charged!
Thanks for your reply. I got "connected" !!!! the light's are up and running going to germinated with at 36 inches on high from final container (7 gallon)
don't let the time release stress you - things will turn out OK !!