FrankFoster
New Member
looks good. they are developing like cfl lighting. tight nodes on outset. Nice.
Jimmy6k First Attempt - Closet Grow
- Thread starter Jimmy6000
- Start date
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- #22
Day 7 in soil.Little update ,have transplanted 4 in to bigger pots. gonna try and do a hempy and see how it acts.It may not make it as it was in soil.I was as ginger as I could be.New 600w coming soon,
Going to have to make some changes,so this is gonna have to do till new light arrives.
Going to have to make some changes,so this is gonna have to do till new light arrives.
FrankFoster
New Member
That one bag seed on the right end in the first photo is a "drapior". That's what I look for in the initial outset for nice indicia. Its a bag seed but it will be a keeper. Notice how the leaves are almost dragging in this small size. Plants like that have the capability to go high ppm. (You are soil so not necessary.) But just fyi, plants that have the "drape" when they are small, can deal with more nitrogen in the hydroponic ppm. FYI
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- #24
Thanks Frank,I did not know that, and will keep it in mind.Sorry to say I had to down size and the 2 bag seeds and a few others went to a buddy.I agree, would have been a nice plant,but I dont want to worry about them being male.All others are clones and female for sure.Im down to 12 all together.2 b.v.k,1 bomb thc,and3 s.l.h in hempys and 3 b.v.k.,2 bomb thc,and 1 s.l.h in soil.I dont like the fact that the hempys where transplanted from soil but well see.Would I notice signs of stress right after transplant or will it take a few days.New light in process of shipping,should be some time this week.
Here are some pics of the group of ladys I have left. Taken about 1 hr after transplant.
Here are some pics of the group of ladys I have left. Taken about 1 hr after transplant.
FrankFoster
New Member
Looks really clean. And from your above post, you are a great friend. Its a rare thing to be handed clean-gen like that.
And a male, no less would be a blessing where I am from. But in my neck of the woods, we do males too. Maybe get it 30-45 days into a 12'er and then stick it on the roof of a highrise building for everybody to get a taste, lol. (no really).
Then everybody outside within a 500-1500 mile radius can have one or two seeds in their grow, from the "wild."
If you are wondering how bag-seed in the last few years got so good, thats why..... ltr
And a male, no less would be a blessing where I am from. But in my neck of the woods, we do males too. Maybe get it 30-45 days into a 12'er and then stick it on the roof of a highrise building for everybody to get a taste, lol. (no really).
Then everybody outside within a 500-1500 mile radius can have one or two seeds in their grow, from the "wild."
If you are wondering how bag-seed in the last few years got so good, thats why..... ltr
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- #26
It will be a long time before I will be able to stick a plant on top of any building here,but thats cool you can do it.Yes my friend seemed to be happier to have the bag seed than the girls.I have noticed some changes with s.l.h since transplant that dont seam normal.It looks like the top leaves are starting to turn yellow and wrinkle,and tips starting to curl under.I will give it a day or so and see what happens.here are some pics.
FrankFoster
New Member
Yeah I see that. If that light chlorosis on the new growth doesn't go away when they age a bit more I would say that you need to ph your water to 6.1 and reduce the salts by flushing... then get really technical and bang a few waterings that are set at really low ppm under 375 ppm with balanced levels of n-p-k.
Since you moved them from soil you could need to watch the mg levels they are getting. but more probably they had a constant ph int he soil and now they are in flux without huge root-balls to sustain the changes.
This could be the stress from the transplant.
What I would do in this situation is a reset with black Kelp Powder at like 1.2-1.8 grams per gallon and that's it. . I would flush them really good with like 5 gallons of the kelp flush and then I would let them dry out knowing that the soil won't get crazy toxic when you allow the moisture to dry up. A common thing in this stage is that you have a smaller plant with smaller roots and the soil is a bit hot. If you let them start drying out the soil salts and things really effect the plant. if you keep them too wet the ph is off and the o2 is low on the roots. Thats why you require a base agent like the kelp, with really low n-p-k, that can flush really good and then you can be comfortable letting them get dry.
Further, letting it dry out when the soil is balanced will increase the stem growth rate. A great approach to this is to use a dripper and drip plain water at the stem base each day drip drip drip, and let the surrounding soil actually get crusty. As long as you set the conditions with a flush and you are sure the soil isn't a "hot cooter" You can get by with a few drips of water after 4 days of no water for another 2-3 weeks.
I had a buddy that did this water reduction method for a long time on his veg grow. then when he flipped to 12, he ran it until they show signs of pre-flower flare then flushes again and he says in 4-5 days the plant goes fast and blows up and out.
Since you moved them from soil you could need to watch the mg levels they are getting. but more probably they had a constant ph int he soil and now they are in flux without huge root-balls to sustain the changes.
This could be the stress from the transplant.
What I would do in this situation is a reset with black Kelp Powder at like 1.2-1.8 grams per gallon and that's it. . I would flush them really good with like 5 gallons of the kelp flush and then I would let them dry out knowing that the soil won't get crazy toxic when you allow the moisture to dry up. A common thing in this stage is that you have a smaller plant with smaller roots and the soil is a bit hot. If you let them start drying out the soil salts and things really effect the plant. if you keep them too wet the ph is off and the o2 is low on the roots. Thats why you require a base agent like the kelp, with really low n-p-k, that can flush really good and then you can be comfortable letting them get dry.
Further, letting it dry out when the soil is balanced will increase the stem growth rate. A great approach to this is to use a dripper and drip plain water at the stem base each day drip drip drip, and let the surrounding soil actually get crusty. As long as you set the conditions with a flush and you are sure the soil isn't a "hot cooter" You can get by with a few drips of water after 4 days of no water for another 2-3 weeks.
I had a buddy that did this water reduction method for a long time on his veg grow. then when he flipped to 12, he ran it until they show signs of pre-flower flare then flushes again and he says in 4-5 days the plant goes fast and blows up and out.
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- #28
Hey frank,I had already gone to store before reading your post,but reason for going was for calimagic.Do you think this will help?
FrankFoster
New Member
That floro micro has mg in it too. Your chem line is fantastic. Push this at 1/4 strength for a few waters. Its not like you need the P-K right now anyways....
I would take a look at your water, and determine the toal ppm with tap water. Looks like you are runing tap and then ph downing it. That is great because is means the total carbonates will slowly bring up your ph to 7.8 or higher as time progresses without soil........ hydroponics.
I saw a grow on these that was 10/10 for everything.
If you can check you water from public data... you can really get a good idea of how to isolate these chems to benefit the grow.
I bet you are at mid range total dissolved solids out of the tap.
For me here it is tap water (5 gallon bucket filled to 4 gallons).... ph 7.4 out of the tap. (5ml =1tsp)
10ml grow, 5ml micro, 3ml bloom (VEG).
3.8 ml of ph down to get the water at 6.0 with a ppm ~880.
At 78-92 degrees outside it takes about 4 hours for the carbonate reaction to bring the ph up to about 6.3 and another 5-11 hours (depending on heat to bring the ph to 7.2. (SMALL RES)
So i don't need to do anything but measure....
In soil I would never go higher than 500 ppm with these which is like 4-6 ml total not 18 ml total for every 4 gallons water compared to that of the hydro-chems.
Plus I would only ph down to 6.9 in soil ..... because any peat in there is working the ph stable....
I would run the chemicals every 10-15 watering in soil (so once every 4 weeks) and I would fix my spectrum in hydro every 2 days on 8 gallons of res 4 days on 16 gallons of res and 5-6 days at 20 gallon res.
Or you could mix this as folage-feeder-spray at 1/10 normal strength and simply use this to spray directly on the plants. water souable mg and cleated iron is great for direct spray... I calculate that 1/10 strength of this product is anotheradded 30 ppm to account for in waterings that you don't want to over-do-it.
Kudos.
I would take a look at your water, and determine the toal ppm with tap water. Looks like you are runing tap and then ph downing it. That is great because is means the total carbonates will slowly bring up your ph to 7.8 or higher as time progresses without soil........ hydroponics.
I saw a grow on these that was 10/10 for everything.
If you can check you water from public data... you can really get a good idea of how to isolate these chems to benefit the grow.
I bet you are at mid range total dissolved solids out of the tap.
For me here it is tap water (5 gallon bucket filled to 4 gallons).... ph 7.4 out of the tap. (5ml =1tsp)
10ml grow, 5ml micro, 3ml bloom (VEG).
3.8 ml of ph down to get the water at 6.0 with a ppm ~880.
At 78-92 degrees outside it takes about 4 hours for the carbonate reaction to bring the ph up to about 6.3 and another 5-11 hours (depending on heat to bring the ph to 7.2. (SMALL RES)
So i don't need to do anything but measure....
In soil I would never go higher than 500 ppm with these which is like 4-6 ml total not 18 ml total for every 4 gallons water compared to that of the hydro-chems.
Plus I would only ph down to 6.9 in soil ..... because any peat in there is working the ph stable....
I would run the chemicals every 10-15 watering in soil (so once every 4 weeks) and I would fix my spectrum in hydro every 2 days on 8 gallons of res 4 days on 16 gallons of res and 5-6 days at 20 gallon res.
Or you could mix this as folage-feeder-spray at 1/10 normal strength and simply use this to spray directly on the plants. water souable mg and cleated iron is great for direct spray... I calculate that 1/10 strength of this product is anotheradded 30 ppm to account for in waterings that you don't want to over-do-it.
Kudos.
- Thread starter
- #30
Yes I am using ph downed tap water.I will try to find some info on my water here and try to get my hands on a ppm meter.1/4 feeding until I get it all worked out.Gonna play with the ph a little and see what happens,maybe calimagic will help me out some.Thanks Frank.
Fuzzy Duck
Well-Known Member
It will be a long time before I will be able to stick a plant on top of any building here,but thats cool you can do it.Yes my friend seemed to be happier to have the bag seed than the girls.I have noticed some changes with s.l.h since transplant that dont seam normal.It looks like the top leaves are starting to turn yellow and wrinkle,and tips starting to curl under.I will give it a day or so and see what happens.here are some pics.
Seems odd that only one of five S.L.H appears to have problems but i would keep a close eye on ther others incase its a strain related problem.
If the problem started with new growth at the top of plant, that would suggest either PH problem or micro nutrient defeciency which may be both related to each other !
Macro nutrient defs normally occur on the older fan leafs first.
Not overly sure if its a toxicity issue yet by salt build up, but may depend on how many times you feed your plants a week & whether the compost used is preloaded with nutrients.
FrankFoster
New Member
That's great input from FuzzyDuck.
Another option for you would be to add Miocorhizol Fungus' to your soil to edge out the flux in ph. This really works in hydro, The roots become a micro-fuzz and the plants do really well in that relationship. In soil you can sideline ph troubles by adding the right stuff.
Basically you have two products, One is a basic copnius (inky head) mushroom mix and the other is a mix of gort-red-round fungi.
I use to load up my old res water into a sprayer and put the remaining fert on my lawn and on my backyard garden... When the neighbor cut out this huge tree, this huge section of the yard where the sun had never shown, started turning red and this fuz was growing everywhere.
It turned out that the miochroizal I was using was gort-red type and I was required to use some bayer products to get my lawn back in shape..... too funny though. The neighbor was like WTF is that red stuff growing and I am like.... "You might be a grower if."
I think Ill post that one.
It might be a great option for this plant that is having the new-growth trouble. I would think that the uptake problem would go away in the surface are of the roots increased a bunch.
Another option for you would be to add Miocorhizol Fungus' to your soil to edge out the flux in ph. This really works in hydro, The roots become a micro-fuzz and the plants do really well in that relationship. In soil you can sideline ph troubles by adding the right stuff.
Basically you have two products, One is a basic copnius (inky head) mushroom mix and the other is a mix of gort-red-round fungi.
I use to load up my old res water into a sprayer and put the remaining fert on my lawn and on my backyard garden... When the neighbor cut out this huge tree, this huge section of the yard where the sun had never shown, started turning red and this fuz was growing everywhere.
It turned out that the miochroizal I was using was gort-red type and I was required to use some bayer products to get my lawn back in shape..... too funny though. The neighbor was like WTF is that red stuff growing and I am like.... "You might be a grower if."
I think Ill post that one.
It might be a great option for this plant that is having the new-growth trouble. I would think that the uptake problem would go away in the surface are of the roots increased a bunch.
- Thread starter
- #33
Well I got a ppm meter and Its 350 out of the tap.GH make's a hard water floramicro I may try.Gonna give it a couple more days and see what happens.Thanks guys.
FrankFoster
New Member
ITs the same stuff watered down.... Just use less.
350 ppm from the tap is great. so give it 400.
Floro Micro is 77 ppm at 1 tsp(5ml) per gal
FloroBloom is 72
Floro Gro is 98 ppm
SO 1 tsp of each is 247 in a gallon plus your 400. 647.
Add cal mag and you get another 13 ppm for 660 ppm perfect for anything......so add another gallon and get another 400
1060/2 equals a ppm of 530 for 2 gallons.
1460/3 equals a ppm of 486.6 for 3 gallons
Don't go over that is soil for veg..... 500 is the norm (a bit hot)
so you can go with
3 gallons of water per 1 tsp of each above and hit under 500ppm.
It gets complicated in soil but take my word for it would take ~25 days with nothing or 5 gallons of 400 ppm water for the soil to revert back after your water with the fertilizer from what it was at the time of fertilization to regular soil per cubic foot. So in 1/4 cubic foot pots that's 1.25 gallons.
Don't re-up the fertilizer until you have put at least 1.25-2 gallons of your tap water on each of them them which is probably 8-10 waterings.
Say you water every other or every 2 days... that would mean you fertilize once every two weeks max in veg.
Then in flower you can adjust you N-P-K chemical variation and only go with 2 gallons of water to up the ppm. Since you want to fert every week you need to flush each 1 gallon pot with at least 2 gallons of tap water every 4 days so you would be...
fert at the 2 gallon water ratio described above. flush every 4 days later with tap (really drench them, a ton of water, at least 1 gallon per pot) then wait another 4 days to add more fert at the three gallon ratio... 4 days later drench them.... then 4 days later at the two gallon ratio. Meaning you only fertilize them 4-5 times total in the flower stage...
Or thats what I would do... lol.
That's why flushing in soil is so important. because if you pour an entire gallon of water on a 1/4 gallon pot your ppm base is 400 ppm + what natural fertilizer compound in the soil (~26-99 ppm)
There is an attrition rate also that looks like mortgage amortization of interest.... but thats too much. lol.
350 ppm from the tap is great. so give it 400.
Floro Micro is 77 ppm at 1 tsp(5ml) per gal
FloroBloom is 72
Floro Gro is 98 ppm
SO 1 tsp of each is 247 in a gallon plus your 400. 647.
Add cal mag and you get another 13 ppm for 660 ppm perfect for anything......so add another gallon and get another 400
1060/2 equals a ppm of 530 for 2 gallons.
1460/3 equals a ppm of 486.6 for 3 gallons
Don't go over that is soil for veg..... 500 is the norm (a bit hot)
so you can go with
3 gallons of water per 1 tsp of each above and hit under 500ppm.
It gets complicated in soil but take my word for it would take ~25 days with nothing or 5 gallons of 400 ppm water for the soil to revert back after your water with the fertilizer from what it was at the time of fertilization to regular soil per cubic foot. So in 1/4 cubic foot pots that's 1.25 gallons.
Don't re-up the fertilizer until you have put at least 1.25-2 gallons of your tap water on each of them them which is probably 8-10 waterings.
Say you water every other or every 2 days... that would mean you fertilize once every two weeks max in veg.
Then in flower you can adjust you N-P-K chemical variation and only go with 2 gallons of water to up the ppm. Since you want to fert every week you need to flush each 1 gallon pot with at least 2 gallons of tap water every 4 days so you would be...
fert at the 2 gallon water ratio described above. flush every 4 days later with tap (really drench them, a ton of water, at least 1 gallon per pot) then wait another 4 days to add more fert at the three gallon ratio... 4 days later drench them.... then 4 days later at the two gallon ratio. Meaning you only fertilize them 4-5 times total in the flower stage...
Or thats what I would do... lol.
That's why flushing in soil is so important. because if you pour an entire gallon of water on a 1/4 gallon pot your ppm base is 400 ppm + what natural fertilizer compound in the soil (~26-99 ppm)
There is an attrition rate also that looks like mortgage amortization of interest.... but thats too much. lol.
FrankFoster
New Member
You should only add chemicals every 2 weeks in veg at the 3 gallon ratio
and
every week in flower at alternating 2 gal or 3 gal ratios with flushing every 4 days with your tap...
and
every week in flower at alternating 2 gal or 3 gal ratios with flushing every 4 days with your tap...
- Thread starter
- #36
Frank, Its good to hear that,I was starting to think I had a real problem of the bat.The nute mix ratio will be followed to the T.I thank you very much,and feel a bit of relief.
I can actually understand it.I wish I could give you rep's,but dont know how.I also received my new light and will be making some miner changes,so from going from a 4 bulb 54w T5 to a 600w mh,I think there will some temp changes.Will have some update pics soon.1 more question,could I just re pot in some new,clean soil,maybe or is it to late.
I can actually understand it.I wish I could give you rep's,but dont know how.I also received my new light and will be making some miner changes,so from going from a 4 bulb 54w T5 to a 600w mh,I think there will some temp changes.Will have some update pics soon.1 more question,could I just re pot in some new,clean soil,maybe or is it to late.- Thread starter
- #37
Well I got closet redone and have slight temp and humidity changes put I'll get it dialed in.The 2 s.l.h. are still looking pretty sad.I have a batch of clones that need to need to planted,so they may have to go,If the do not start showing signs that there getting better.Here are some pics of new set up and some definite new growth.
Will post pics of the 2 s.l.h. tomorrow.
bigblunts209
New Member
Nice Clean setup!
- Thread starter
- #39
Thanks Blunts,gonna have to check out your journal.
- Thread starter
- #40
So,I made so adjustment to get temps and RH in check.Added humidifier.I have gotten rid of 1 of the sickly s.l.h and made room for 3 more baby girls.I will not add any more to the closet.I'm sure there are to many in there now to flower but,well see.As soon as the 3 baby's are at week or 2 and healthy,I will flip to flower.Not sure yet but,I think I will go with 10 on 14 off.That would put the majority of the ladys to be at about a month of veg.I am 24 on now,would it be ok to turn light of for 1/2 hour or so to spray?Would I have to turn off same time everyday until flip?Here are some updated pics.
s.l.h not doing so well!
