Yeah was just going to ask was it subcool's mix. I learnt from that then made it my own out of what I can get this side of the water. Mine needs some rock phosphate like suggested by DocBud at the beginning but I found out that the horse manure had it in already so I just left it. Next time Less manure and some rock phosphate.
It will serve you well mate, just don't feed and I only watered mine every 10 days to begin with to really let the root establish. They were bursting out of the bottom of the pots in a week or so. I started with 50ml of water per 10 days in the small pots then worked up from there. Never fully wetting the whole medium until they were in well established roots.
The Soft Rock Phosphate isnt' added for the P! As has been mentioned, the phosphorus isn't even available to the plant until long after it's been harvested.
It's added for other reasons:
1.)being a colloidal clay, it's loaded with micronutrients
2.)It's a GREAT source of calcium
3.)It increases the CEC of the soil
I'm assuming the rock phosphate is for giving the plant P in the final weeks of flowering (it has to break down first; the steamed bone meal doesn't as much). I'd be leary of it being in manure being that the manure has to break down to not burn roots, and in that time the rock phosphate might break down also. I'll adjust this mix if necessary, but I have the feeling all I'll have to do is adjust the ratios (soil:supersoil) according to the length of the flowering period. I rushed it a bit and used it on 6 plants early, but slight leaf twist is the only problem they are having so far.
Horse manure isn't the best food for our plants.....way too high in potassium and often contains pathogens. If you're going to use it, make damn sure it's composted horse manure, and not fresh.
I've used Subcool's mix extensively, along with my own variations of it. It works really well for Subcool's strains, but I found it to be way too hot for nearly everything else I grew, and at times my room was foggy due to all the fungus gnats.
If I was forced to use that mix again, I'd add high calclium limestone, about 1/4 cup per gallon of soil, skip the dolomite entirely, and use half the Blood meal. Then, I'd use a good mycorrhyzal product on the roots.
I had Subcool's soil tested when I was researching High Brix, and it failed miserably. I even got a call from the director of the lab asking me where in the world I got this soil. He marveled that plants could grow in it at all!
It shows how adaptable and tough our favorite plants are.....but in many ways the lab dude was right. I never had roots that really filled up the "hot" part of the pot when I was using that soil. Now the roots are so dense I can pop plants out without losing any dirt.
!!! Kick the hermie's ass! Cheers mate~ 
