J189RFC 400W Hydroton Lyriders + Outdoor

my grow door is always slightly open when the lights are on, during the winter its not so bad but in the summer if the door is shut my plants start to cook, so does is open when lights are on and shut as lights go off, i dont have the option of running vents unless i knock a few bricks out of the side of the wall as its a brick built cupboard, so the only part thats wood is the door
 
KingJohnC said:
i agree with donpaul.p, the clawing is one of 3 things
1) heat
2) over watering
3) too high of nitrogen in the amount of nutrients you are feeding
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Thanks KJ, it was an easy fix, just had to time it a little. Thanks :)
 
Happy Munchday J :thumb:
 
Hallo Hallo! Happy skunkday all! I come bearing photos and updates. I burnt the girls again... they still seem to be stretching, how is this even possible!? I double checked the seed bank and they actually suggest 80 days for this particular LR#1..... Soooo Since this week is supposed to be pick week I guess I let it go another couple weeks. Considering these girls don't look any where near done! The outside gal is looking much thicker than these. Oh well. Cut down the tiny chicka too, she started not looking too good. I think I may flush sometime soon. I think they could use it!

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Every auto grows differently, some get big fast, and take longer to start flowering, and some flower sooner, and don't get very large. I think you will get a better yield because of the longer veg time, looks like they have good node spacing as well.
 
Happy Skunkday J
My 60 day wonder auto takes about 70 days lol
:high-five:
 
I have a new hypothesis to why I have the most hugest ladies. In one word my theory is : Stress . The little one showed signs of flowerig right away so I couldn't do anything, but the other 3 got transplanted, over fertilized, trained, over watered, under watered, burned etc sooooo I have this funny feeling if you apply stressors to autos they will "veg" longer or off set flowering anyways. I was also adding WAY too much Nitrogen and couldn't really put as much P as I would have liked. One of the next things on my list of things to get is a better flowering fert. I have an organic grow fert so I might try and get some properly formulated ferts.

I know a lot of people just chalk it up to genetics, but these strains are supposed to be homogenous and show identical traits across the board. So we will see. Real updates on skunkday! I can't wait to show you guys the outside gal, she might be a little nute burned, and might have some aphids, but she looks and smells amazing! ( I say she looks great cause she actually looks like shes flowering)
 
Chronic Weekend to you J :thumb:
 
Alright alright alright. It's time for another skunkday funday! Little late this week sorry! This is whats been going on!

Straight water for the last week, first light feeding again today, probably throw some ph down into the next batch. I have a sneaking suspicion I'm starting to get a high ph. My area has an abnormally high ph for tap water, but it doesn't usually hurt the plants, just occasionally you have to re balance a bit. Thinking of getting one of those PH wands for soil, I am starting to hate the powders. Anyone have experience with the wands? I've seen a couple people using them with success but I have this weird preconception that they aren't accurate and break easy.

I took down that tiny one last week, she wasn't ready but I burnt her pretty bad. Will need to invest some proper ferts soonish. These do for the moment but it's a pain futzing around. Liquid organics coming up! So far I've got fish poop. That plus good soil & the vegging turns out amazing. But I need to start working out a good formula. I've been reading The Docs stuff about HighBrix soils and am very intrigued. I need to read more but I do love how those ladies look and if I come to understand it well I can apply it to my other gardens. :)

On to the photos!
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Also a couple in there of the outdoor girl. She is so small but she smells good and I think I'll get over an oz from her so!
 
Looks like you have some nice node spacing. I bet those are going to turn out to be some nice colas.

I didn't like the soil PH meters I had. It was cheap but It didn't seem to be very accurate. It would be better than nothing though.

When I first started out I used something similar to subcool's soil mix. I just kept researching the web until I found something I could make with what I had. I completed a couple grows with it. Can't say if it was good or not. I didn't even check PH back then or weigh my results.
 
Scarfinger68 said:
Looks like you have some nice node spacing. I bet those are going to turn out to be some nice colas.

I didn't like the soil PH meters I had. It was cheap but It didn't seem to be very accurate. It would be better than nothing though.

When I first started out I used something similar to subcool's soil mix. I just kept researching the web until I found something I could make with what I had. I completed a couple grows with it. Can't say if it was good or not. I didn't even check PH back then or weigh my results.
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Thanks Scarfinger! Yes a couple of people have said that I have great node spacing, I chalk it up to the ruddy traits as well as I kept my light a lot to close for most of the grow. I hope she starts filling out! Also thank you for the info, my suspicions were fairly accurate. I bought some ph drops today cause I think I'm almost ready to get serious. After these ladies ripen up and get the old ChopChop I'm going to start taking this a little more seriously . This whole high brix count soil seems really really interesting if not a lot of work.
 
RainStacks said:
Sweet photos, I really like that black and white one :) I have that same exact kink in the tips of some of my leaves! I am glad you got your :MoreNutes: issue under control. I hope I can get mine there too. Hopefully I can keep it together till they finish up :)
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Thanks Rainstacks :) I know everyone else seems to like that orange light, but I can't STAND it. Some people do a great job of filling in the light like Jon, but I just don't like the orange at all. I have some SUPER artsy fartsy pictures from a month or so ago. Those turned out great! I hope I have nutes figured out, I just picked some more up today so I think I have a good regiment going. Adding some cal/mag today plus a regular feeding of the new stuff which is a 2 part flower + micro. We will see this week how they like it. I really want these ladies to be done. The regular outside lady looks like she will be done before these darned auto will be. Oh well. Tons of seeds and I am more prepared than I was for this one. ONWARDS!
 
Sounds like you have a very solid plan. When you add the nutes just to be sure to start off very slowly, because when you boost the micro the plants may take up nutes faster. I am also a big fan of the High Brix grows, and will be doing one next summer for sure. The one thing I would mention is that they actually seem much easier, especially since the plants are PM and pest resistant! Keep up the great work, and pics!
:thumb:
 
Thanks again Rainstack. I hope you have your issue under control too, but only time will tell right?

Also I thought I had heard this somewhere before but I have found evidence to support the dual pheno type hypothesis, and I guess I was un"lucky" haha to get the vastly sativa pheno(even the new leaves look super sative dominant!)
But here we go :
Joint Doctor - Lowryder

Genetics: Williams Wonder / Northern Lights No. 2 / Mexican Ruderalis
Type: Stabilized hybrid, True-Breeding
Harvest Date: 2 months from sowing.
Flowering Period: 5 weeks
THC Content: 10-12%

Characteristics: Small, hardy, autoflowering strain, small yields.

Aptly named for its low profile (both literally and figuratively), Lowryder was developed for extreme rapid growth (life cycle is 8 weeks from seed to bud), uniquely short height, and amazingly versatile.

Lowryder is stable and reliable in its properties, a product of nine generations of selective breeding, and is non-deviant and hermaphrodite-free. Lowryder claims direct descendance from superior Williams Wonder and Northern Lights no.2 indica, as well as a more exotic, virtually unknown short variety believed to be descended from "Mexican Ruderalis", an experimental cross created over 25 years ago.

Passing directly from the seedling to the flowering stage, Lowryder altogether does away with the vegetative growth stage, in a process called autoflowering. In other words, when planted, it sprouts, grows a couple sets of leaves, then immediately and automatically begins flowering (males at about day 17, females at day 20). As a result, it is the quickest, most compact, and most discrete plant available.

Having no vegetative stage, Lowryder can not be cloned or regenerated, for all intents and purposes. Replanting seeds is a must. But then, this plants unique advantages do away with any reason for cloning in the first place. It is an ideal parent strain, producing some offspring with its unique autoflowering traits.

To complement its unique characteristics, Lowryders final appearance, taste, and high, have nothing to envy of the finer weed varieties, an excellent strain with high potency and good resin production.

Known Phenotypes:
beta version - add an other phenotype
1.: short, compact, fastly blossoming, indica-dominant Phenotype #2
2.: long, stretched, slowly blossoming, sativa-dominant Phenotype #1
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So there we have it, I have a long wait a head of me. We are officially past 60days now, so maybe at 80? maybe at 90? I'm not really excited to keep waiting, but hell, I think she will produce about 1000% what I was hoping to get back. :smoke: :)
 
hi mate,

i see a couple of problems, with the pics on the last page their is some temp issues, their is slight cupping of the leaves which usually suggests high temps, so try and get fans blowing on them or see if you can sort temps out, but in this pages pics the temps look ok, but the plants look like they are getting way to much N, autos need very little, they survive on a lot less than photo plants, every auto ive grown ive had to back off on the nutes and give a much weaker dose and when they start flowering i can then normally start bumping the feed up and they seem to take it a whole lot better,

id stop feeding nutes for at least 1 or 2 feeds and just use plain water, are you using ro water by any chance, you could possible go 3 or 4 feeds with just plant water, also with soil grown plants its best to let the soil totally dry out between waterings, my grow at the minute ive been following a different grow idea and thats to totally let the pots dry before watering, so i normally go 5 days between waterings but now im going between 7 and 10 unless the plants look like they need watering, ive noticed a huge difference in my plants, they have never grown this quick, the plants in new compost have not been fed once and im using regular tomato compost, i just flipped them to 12-12 today as their getting to big to quick so ill run out of space, the roots need oxygen as much as they need water and clearly by me watering a lot less often im getting some very aggresive growth,

so if your soil was fresh when you planted then the plants could easily go 4 weeks or more with no nutrients, my plants are getting on 7 to 8 weeks old some of them and they have not been fed once and still look a nice dark green colour, so id just use plain water for a couple of feeds and let the plants use up whats in the soil, the last thing you need is salt building up and then you have a nute lockout and end up flushing the plants, that really stunts them loads, i know as i just had the same problem with my grow before this one.

but you certainly got a nice pheno type with them autos, you should get a nice yield if you can pull them round,
 
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