Is this leaf septoria? If so, what should I do?

[Lovie]

I live in central VA where it is very hot and humid this time of year. I have 5 outdoor plants. A few days ago, I noticed the leaves turning yellow with blackish/brownish spots on one of my plants. When I removed the affected leaves I realized the center, bottom of the canopy was the worst infected. Today, I see all of my plants are affected....and the leaves that are affected are in the center of the canopy of these plants too, which from what I have read online is common for leaf septoria. I read you need to use fungicide to treat leaf septoria but I was hoping someone could recommend a specific product or way of treating it.....or if it is not septoria, then what is it? My plants are transitioning to flower right now so I need to nip this problem quickly, if that is possible. I fear it has already affected the overall health of the first plant that had it. I want to address this before it affects the health of my other plants.

This pic was taken on 7/23 while plant was in good health.

Same plant this morning 8/6

Green Crack was taken this morning. Looks good except you will notice a couple of yellow leaves at the bottom.

This is the center of the canopy of the same Green Crack plant as above.

Different Green Crack plant than above. If you notice the bottom of this plant is starting to droop like the first plant that was affected. (IDK what strain that plant is)

 

[Lovie]

And here is a pic of a leaf with the beginning of brown spots, with yellow around the spots.... which, from what I have read is how it starts off.

 

[Sativa1970]

You are vary early stage. pull badly infected leaves and treat ALL of your plants with copper bicarbonate base fungicide because it spreads. It is safe to consume and kills all of the fungus under the septoria family.

 

[Lovie]

You are vary early stage. pull badly infected leaves and treat ALL of your plants with copper bicarbonate base fungicide because it spreads. It is safe to consume and kills all of the fungus under the septoria family.

I know you have high heat and humidity too. Have you dealt with leaf septoria before? If so, was it hard to treat?

 

[Lovie]

You are vary early stage. pull badly infected leaves and treat ALL of your plants with copper bicarbonate base fungicide because it spreads. It is safe to consume and kills all of the fungus under the septoria family.

Is this safe to use in budding plants? The indoor plants are 3.5 weeks into the flip and budding.

 

[Sativa1970]

I have always grown tropical strains so they are already naturally resistant. When I was growing outdoors I was using a compost tea foliar spray regularly. First signs of fungus I just doubled up the dose. Microbes in the tea eat fungus. It takes around 2 weeks to get a good tea started. In the greenhouse and garden we used copper bicarbonate because you just mix as much as you need and spray. No advanced prep and tea isn't viable when spraying by the acer. It is perfectly safe to spray and ingest. Tomatoes are vary prone to fungus so I have eaten a bit over the years. Just make sure it is food crop grade so there are no other harmful additives.

If you have to spray late flower and are concerned it will effect the flavor you can wash the plant. Fill a clean trash can with cool water. At harvest gently dunk and soak the plant for a few minutes, then hang dry. You will loose some terpenes and trichomes but it will clean any dirt and residue off.

 

[Lovie]

I have always grown tropical strains so they are already naturally resistant. When I was growing outdoors I was using a compost tea foliar spray regularly. First signs of fungus I just doubled up the dose. Microbes in the tea eat fungus. It takes around 2 weeks to get a good tea started. In the greenhouse and garden we used copper bicarbonate because you just mix as much as you need and spray. No advanced prep and tea isn't viable when spraying by the acer. It is perfectly safe to spray and ingest. Tomatoes are vary prone to fungus so I have eaten a bit over the years. Just make sure it is food crop grade so there are no other harmful additives.

If you have to spray late flower and are concerned it will effect the flavor you can wash the plant. Fill a clean trash can with cool water. At harvest gently dunk and soak the plant for a few minutes, then hang dry. You will loose some terpenes and trichomes but it will clean any dirt and residue off.

When going through threads on here concerning leaf septoria I found a member in HI that had a hard time fighting it and eventually would only grow resistant strains. I have 2 Sour Diesels, 2 Green Cracks and I don't know what the big one is. I would think the Sour D and Green Crack would be resistant because they are sativa dominant. I read they grow well outdoors in VA for that reason, that is why I chose to grow them outside. The big one I am guessing is a hybrid....indica dominant by the leaves, but what the hell do I know!

I do know it makes me sad to compare the pic from 2 weeks ago and the pic today! I stopped using the flood light to delay flowering, should I go back to using it until I get this situation under control?

 

[Lovie]

Do you think if I wash the nets in hot water with laundry detergent and bleach that it will kill the spores or should I trash them?

 

[Sativa1970]

We started with 100s of land strains identified by botanists. Sativas grew in tropical (hot/wet) and subtropics (hot/dry). Indica grew in sub tropic and temperate(cool/damp). Ruderals grew in far northern climates. Those strains have been hybridized for 50 years, without regulation by "commercial" growers. Modern names need to be taken with a heathy dose salt. Sour Diesel and green crack are sub tropic and temperate with origins from the US west coast and Afghanistan.

If there are no pistols yet, turning the yard lights back on will not harm the plant. It may, or may not delay the flowering cycle. Too many variables to say for sure.

Copper bicarbonate should kill the fungus within a few days. Apply early in the morning so it has time to kill the fungus then evaporate away. Spray leaves, nets, pots and top of soil. Fallow the direction on the bottle because this is another case of more is not more better. The old saying " The dose makes the poison" applies. In low concentrations it is completely safe but in high concentrations it can be absorbed by plant. If absorbed in large amounts it is toxic to plants and an irritant if you inhale fumes when burnt. Copper toxicity effects the entire plant with yellowing and brown spots or veins. Plants are much more sensitive to it than humans.

 

[Lovie]

We started with 100s of land strains identified by botanists. Sativas grew in tropical (hot/wet) and subtropics (hot/dry). Indica grew in sub tropic and temperate(cool/damp). Ruderals grew in far northern climates. Those strains have been hybridized for 50 years, without regulation by "commercial" growers. Modern names need to be taken with a heathy dose salt. Sour Diesel and green crack are sub tropic and temperate with origins from the US west coast and Afghanistan.

If there are no pistols yet, turning the yard lights back on will not harm the plant. It may, or may not delay the flowering cycle. Too many variables to say for sure.

Copper bicarbonate should kill the fungus within a few days. Apply early in the morning so it has time to kill the fungus then evaporate away. Spray leaves, nets, pots and top of soil. Fallow the direction on the bottle because this is another case of more is not more better. The old saying " The dose makes the poison" applies. In low concentrations it is completely safe but in high concentrations it can be absorbed by plant. If absorbed in large amounts it is toxic to plants and an irritant if you inhale fumes when burnt. Copper toxicity effects the entire plant with yellowing and brown spots or veins. Plants are much more sensitive to it than humans.

I removed all the infected leaves I saw yesterday evening, but I was losing light so I probably missed a few. I mixed it at the highest recommended concentration and sprayed. The instructions say to spray every 2 weeks or after it rains, which it rained this morning. I went and removed some more infected leaves and sprayed again at the highest recommended strength because it is perfect conditions for fungus......hot and muggy as f@#$. The next time I spray I will do it at the lowest recommended concentration. I didn't know copper can have a negative effect. If you look at my photo gallery you will see a camper in some of the pics. Right behind the camper is a tree. The tree is infected with not only leaf septoria but black mold too. The tree is getting cut down in the next few days. I was going to spray the tree but it is taller than the house with bushes growing all around it. Spraying the tree seemed like a hopeless cause. The tree is growing right beside the house. It probably should have been cut down a long time ago.

The flood light has been stopping the 3 plants closest to it from transitioning. I stopped using it once I realized the other 2 were transitioning. I think I am going to let nature take its course and not interfere.

 

[Lovie]

I am still removing a lot of infected leaves. I want to make sure that I am not confusing septoria with a nute issue. Below is a pic of one of the several leaves I removed this morning. I read that with septoria the center of the spots have a whitish appearance, which is why I think this is septoria.

Also, can a plant be cured of septoria or do you just do what you can to keep it from getting out of control?

 

[Sativa1970]

An otherwise healthy green leaf with random yellow, black or brown spots is pest or fungal damage. The burnt tips could be a side effect of the attack, the treatment or a separate issue. Randomly throwing treatments at a plant can do ore harm than good. Fix one problem at a time so your diagnoses isn't skewed.

You can kill fungus and treatment prevents new growth. A leaf will never recover from damage but new growth can be protected.

 

[Lovie]

An otherwise healthy green leaf with random yellow, black or brown spots is pest or fungal damage. The burnt tips could be a side effect of the attack, the treatment or a separate issue. Randomly throwing treatments at a plant can do ore harm than good. Fix one problem at a time so your diagnoses isn't skewed.

You can kill fungus and treatment prevents new growth. A leaf will never recover from damage but new growth can be protected.

I wanted to make sure I wasn't removing leaves that didn't need to be removed. I sprayed the plants the day before yesterday with copper fungicide. The instructions say to mix 2-4 tablespoons of it with a gallon of water. I added 3 tablespoons to a gallon of water. I do need to spray for pests. I haven't used neem oil in a while but was considering it since it also has antifungal properties or should I keep using pyrethrins?

 

[Sativa1970]

The fungus should stop spreading soon. Hopefully your next application will just be preventative. Pyrethrin breaks down quickly but is gentler on the plant. I would go with the lower stress option if it is working.

 

[Lovie]

The fungus should stop spreading soon. Hopefully your next application will just be preventative. Pyrethrin breaks down quickly but is gentler on the plant. I would go with the lower stress option if it is working.

When I use neem oil it's 70% neem oil (I have wondered what the other 30% is, the label doesn't say, or if it does I am overlooking it). I do fine with the 70% neem oil. With regular neem oil, I always end up with burnt plants, no matter how fine of a mist I spray, or how much I rinse the plants the next morning.

I switched to pyrethrin so I had a backup to BT since some caterpillars have built an immunity to it and can be used during flower.

 

[Sativa1970]

The other 30% is a carrier oil like soy oil to help even overage. Emulsifiers to help it mix with water. Possibly a "detergent" agent to help the oil bond to water base surfaces. Nothing toxic or reactive, because if so, those must be listed on a label.

There are two types of neem oil, clarified extract and cold pressed. Extract is primarily a bug repellant. Cold pressed is the stronger one you want for killing pests and fungus. It may list azadir,,, something,, on the label. That is the part of neem cold press that does the magic. Cold pressed is more effective but also photo sensitive.

I use neem on walls and equipment but only as a last resort on plants.

 

[Lovie]

I am getting my second grow underway and I am keeping a journal this time. I am hoping some of you will follow along and help me out along the way.......I need a lot of help!

Lovie's Blueberry and Chocolate Thai

 

[Lovie]

Just wanted to give everyone an update. My plant looks happy again! I am still removing infected leaves but not nearly as many as I was at first. At first, I had to remove a bunch every day. Now, I remove a handful every 2 to 3 days. I am noticing some of my leaves are clawing downward. Any thoughts on what is causing that?

 

[Dustin84]

I live in central VA where it is very hot and humid this time of year. I have 5 outdoor plants. A few days ago, I noticed the leaves turning yellow with blackish/brownish spots on one of my plants. When I removed the affected leaves I realized the center, bottom of the canopy was the worst infected. Today, I see all of my plants are affected....and the leaves that are affected are in the center of the canopy of these plants too, which from what I have read online is common for leaf septoria. I read you need to use fungicide to treat leaf septoria but I was hoping someone could recommend a specific product or way of treating it.....or if it is not septoria, then what is it? My plants are transitioning to flower right now so I need to nip this problem quickly, if that is possible. I fear it has already affected the overall health of the first plant that had it. I want to address this before it affects the health of my other plants.

This pic was taken on 7/23 while plant was in good health.

Same plant this morning 8/6

Green Crack was taken this morning. Looks good except you will notice a couple of yellow leaves at the bottom.

This is the center of the canopy of the same Green Crack plant as above.

Different Green Crack plant than above. If you notice the bottom of this plant is starting to droop like the first plant that was affected. (IDK what strain that plant is)

I'm in southern MO, right next to the AK border, outside it's a constant issue. The wonders of baking soda and alcohol seems to help lol. I have actually been given a tip to make a honey mixture up, adding baking soda and yeast, foilier spray and for the ground. Let the yeast start fermenting the sugar a day, spreads naturally and fights a handful of issues. For whatever reason the yeast attacks a lot of those troublesome things. Used twice this summer and it's kept everything in check.

 

[Sativa1970]

Clawing can be a sign of high N, over watering, high temp or low humidity. Excess N also causes dark green leaves and a glossy finish. Over watering turns the leaves into wilted, squishy lettuce. High temp or low humidity, they get stiff and almost brittle.

Honey feeds the yeast to start yeast colony growth. Yeast breaks down organics for the existing microbes. Baking soda corrects the PH from the yeast and stops fungi spore development temporarily. Knew an old man that grew monster plants and swore the key was socializing with them. Grew them next to his chair on the patio. He used Gypsum rocks to keep the weeds down, high PH. Always gave the plant his last swallow of home brewed beer (acidic yeast) and coffee ( acidic N and sugar). Still not sure if he seriously believed it was just the socializing that effected it or he was just fucking with me. Bio chemical, sarcastic, genius or senile are the only two options.