InTheShed Grows Inside & Out: Jump In Any Time

Thanks Bode! I'd have to check with @Justin Goody to see if his show the red petioles since these are his creations, but I'm hoping it's genetic. I'd rather not have to start mixing separate bottles for the RTa and QGa.

I always manage to have nice green plants in veg and yellowing lowers in flower, to the extent I think it's the way to tell my plants from the rest! I've tried bumping various elements in the past and never found the answer, so I've stopped looking for one to be honest. Losing those lowers hasn't seemed to taken much of a toll on outside harvests that I can tell (this is the first time completely inside though), which is probably why I'm done worrying about it.
Queen has 2 purpleish relatives so I’d say she’s good to go and will be colorful. Looking good my friend
 
Hey there Shed - doggone I’ve been so busy I missed quite a bit of activity here, my apologies. I just caught up. Damn man, your autos look SWEET. Yes, those tester buds are definitely early, but it’s funny, I do that too. You got serious spears on the Queen G - she’s a very impressive plant auto or photo. So is the Ruby Tuesday. Very very nice. Did you expect this level of performance from the autos when you started this? Also, interesting you have stayed at 24/0 the entire time. I know you can, I hadn’t yet tried it. I kinda feel like even with Ruderalis in the mix the plant still benefits from down time in flower. I usually go 24/0 to flower then switch to 20/4. But it doesn’t appear to have mattered in this case, look at them go. What size pots are those again? I almost am becoming of the mind that autos are like fish, in that they will grow to the size of their container. I’m well on the way to filling a ten with that Northern Lights. It’s crazy. Finally, thanks for that cut away Solo root ball display. Root bounded-ness, or fear thereof, is exactly why I haven’t tried it. I see Nick Hard’s evil magic with them and others but hadn’t yet gotten over the “they must know some voodoo” idea in my head. :rofl: This makes it clear why it works. And is also very odd, no? My pots certainly don’t look that way at the end. Very interesting. Anyway, caught up, thanks, and great stuff.
 
Srsly? You're never getting the hell out of here are you?
Ex the Canuks I popped Tuesday I have about 100 days until everything is harvested. The Canuks - well people have had issues popping them and the strain is discontinued so there’s a journal but….
I've tried bumping various elements in the past and never found the answer,
It has to be as you’ve tested for some deficiency, right? You’ve calculated all your PPM’s and have got it right on the lean bleeding edge of the perfect minimum. Less is more as I have learned. Well played, Sir, as you say what’s a few yellowed lower fans between friends? All those nutes are going up top where they’re needed.
 
Broccoli and Leak soup with French bread sounds just the ticket!
It was perfect for 2-day-old toasted bread!
Hey there Shed - doggone I’ve been so busy I missed quite a bit of activity here, my apologies. I just caught up.
I'm glad to have you stop by when you can Jon, I know it ain't easy down in Florida carrying on by yourself these days.
Damn man, your autos look SWEET. You got serious spears on the Queen G - she’s a very impressive plant auto or photo. So is the Ruby Tuesday. Very very nice.
Thanks!
Did you expect this level of performance from the autos when you started this?
Absolutely not, especially after my past experience with autos. But this does kinda confirm my suspicions that autos do much better in a controlled environment. And maybe they don't like to have their roots jostled with all the schlepping I normally do!
Also, interesting you have stayed at 24/0 the entire time. I know you can, I hadn’t yet tried it. I kinda feel like even with Ruderalis in the mix the plant still benefits from down time in flower. I usually go 24/0 to flower then switch to 20/4. But it doesn’t appear to have mattered in this case, look at them go.
I'm working with a very chilly house so having the light on 24 hours a day keeps the tent in the upper 70s, 80 if I zip it up completely. And since I'm tracking DLI I feel like I'm okay as long as I'm not smashing them with light.
What size pots are those again?
Queen G on the left is in a 5 gallon from a solo.

QG2 is in a 10 but I don't think it's going to fill the pot, since I went from solo to 3 gallon and then into the 10. I didn't know if I was going to keep it but I'll see how the roots did after harvest.

Ruby Tuesday is also in a 10 (from a solo).
I almost am becoming of the mind that autos are like fish, in that they will grow to the size of their container. I’m well on the way to filling a ten with that Northern Lights. It’s crazy.
That NLa you've got is a beauty, and it took to your training like champ!
Yes, those tester buds are definitely early, but it’s funny, I do that too.
Oh, I'm in good company then. :thumb:
Finally, thanks for that cut away Solo root ball display. Root bounded-ness, or fear thereof, is exactly why I haven’t tried it. I see Nick Hard’s evil magic with them and others but hadn’t yet gotten over the “they must know some voodoo” idea in my head. This makes it clear why it works. And is also very odd, no? My pots certainly don’t look that way at the end. Very interesting.
It seems to me and Cola Monster that the roots stay mostly on the outside and do really well as long as they're not left to dry out. If I had the room I'm sure I could have trimmed those up and flowered them without transplanting, like he does.
Anyway, caught up, thanks, and great stuff.
Again, thanks for the visit! :ciao:
Ex the Canuks I popped Tuesday I have about 100 days until everything is harvested. The Canuks - well people have had issues popping them and the strain is discontinued so there’s a journal but….
Which journal is that again? I don't know which plants are in which journal, as to me it seems like one big grow spread across a bunch of different threads. 🤷‍♂️
It has to be as you’ve tested for some deficiency, right? You’ve calculated all your PPM’s and have got it right on the lean bleeding edge of the perfect minimum. Less is more as I have learned. Well played, Sir, as you say what’s a few yellowed lower fans between friends? All those nutes are going up top where they’re needed.
I wouldn't say "tested" like our new sponsor Rimrock Analytical could do, but I did use the process of elimination by upping or lowering different elements that could have caused it. And now that I'm halfway through flower in a completely inside grow with yellowing starting at the same point as my regular grows, I've decided not to worry about it. It's obvious something I'm doing in the transition to flower, but the formulas I've come up with for other folks seem to work well, so why not for me?

Like you said, there are other things to worry about, and my harvests don't seem to have suffered from the yellows down below. ⚖️
 
They've been at 24/0 since they were born and will be until harvest. If it were in the 70s in the house I might go with higher wattage and 18/6, but the heat is really helpful with the house in the low to mid 60s this time of year.

Thanks Scottay, and that PM likes the chunky monkeys as well as the skinny minis! This weekend I'm going to spray the entire outside garden with neem and see if that helps at all.
Fingers crossed 🤞 amigo. CL🍀
 
Highya ITS,

About the yellowing thing - Could it be genetic? Just because in the wild, they don't get nutrients given like we do? I've had some (outdoors) not stop yellowing no matter what I did. On the other hand, there aren't as many fans to take off at harvest!! Happy Smokin'
 
About the yellowing thing - Could it be genetic? Just because in the wild, they don't get nutrients given like we do? I've had some (outdoors) not stop yellowing no matter what I did. On the other hand, there aren't as many fans to take off at harvest!! Happy Smokin'
I hadn't considered genetics (unless you mean cannabis generally) because it happens on every variety, but I haven't had it bad enough to take the sugars or leave me with bald plants at the end. And sometimes the dead leaves are harder to pull off than the green ones...what's up with that?
 
I hadn't considered genetics (unless you mean cannabis generally) because it happens on every variety, but I haven't had it bad enough to take the sugars or leave me with bald plants at the end. And sometimes the dead leaves are harder to pull off than the green ones...what's up with that?
Perhaps it's your AIR?
 
About the yellowing thing - Could it be genetic?
Bode, are you referring to the plant's genetic make-up or Shed's? 😁
 
High from Alaska hope you're well uncle shed. Started at a new lab this year and been loving it. Sending rosin clouds
20240102_153517.jpg
 
Bode, are you referring to the plant's genetic make-up or Shed's?
Since there's one thing the plants all have in common I'm guessing he means mine!
High from Alaska hope you're well uncle shed. Started at a new lab this year and been loving it. Sending rosin clouds
Greetings and happy new year to you and the entire Dabber clan! Congrats on the new job, and you bring the coolest presents. :)

It's always nice to have you stop by!
 
Hey gang! I'm going to start an experiment to see if using aspirin works for PM (the idea came to me as I was spraying citric acid on the autos this morning), so I want to load some information in this post as a reference. Here are a couple of resources I found:

"Salicylic acid is shown to give the best protection against Powdery mildew when applied at 300ppm" and the chart shows better results than citric acid. Source

"Powdery mildew was significantly reduced with spraying aspirin at 2.5mM" on squash plants. Source

Since the molar mass of aspirin is 180.16 g/mol and they call for a 2.5mM solution, I used the molarity calculator here to tell me that I would need 225.2 milligrams (0.2252g) in 500ml of distilled water to get the 2.5mM dilution.

I'm having trouble finding a micromole to ppm calculator (where's @FelipeBlu when you need him?). Anyone here know how to do that calculation or find how to make a 300ppm dilution of aspirin? I need to keep checking online. I guess I could see if my old PPM meter still works and just keep adding more and measuring... :hmmmm:

Anyway, once I settle on a dilution I'll mix it up and test it on a fourth Candida clone that rooted to see if it does any leaf damage. If that looks good I'll dunk one of the Ruby Tuesday auto test buds in it and do a before/after scope of the trichomes. If there's no damage there then I'll try it on a single cola in the tent.

More as it happens!
 
Hey gang! I'm going to start an experiment to see if using aspirin works for PM (the idea came to me as I was spraying citric acid on the autos this morning), so I want to load some information in this post as a reference. Here are a couple of resources I found:

"Salicylic acid is shown to give the best protection against Powdery mildew when applied at 300ppm" and the chart shows better results than citric acid. Source

"Powdery mildew was significantly reduced with spraying aspirin at 2.5mM" on squash plants." Source

Since the molar mass of aspirin is 180.16 g/mol and they call for a 2.5mM solution, I used the molarity calculator here to tell me that I would need 225.2 milligrams (0.2252g) in 500ml of distilled water to get the 2.5mM dilution.

I'm having trouble finding a micromole to ppm calculator (where's @FelipeBlu when you need him?). Anyone here know how to do that calculation or find how to make a 300ppm dilution of aspirin? I need to keep checking online. I guess I could see if my old PPM meter still works and just keep adding more and measuring... :hmmmm:

Anyway, once I settle on a dilution I'll mix it up and test it on a fourth Candida clone that rooted to see if it does any leaf damage. If that looks good I'll dunk one of the Ruby Tuesday auto test buds in it and do a before/after scope of the trichomes. If there's no damage there then I'll try it on a single cola in the tent.

More as it happens!

Is it the same as pure salicylic acid? I’m sure you are all caught up on your chemistry but just being safe

Salicylic acid is treated with acetic anhydride, an acid derivative, causing a chemical reaction that turns salicylic acid's hydroxylgroup into an ester group (R-OH → R-OCOCH3). This process yields aspirin and acetic acid, which is considered a byproduct of this reaction. Small amounts of sulfuric acid (and occasionally phosphoric acid) are almost always used as a catalyst.

I hope it works, very interesting!
 
Hey gang! I'm going to start an experiment to see if using aspirin works for PM (the idea came to me as I was spraying citric acid on the autos this morning), so I want to load some information in this post as a reference. Here are a couple of resources I found:

"Salicylic acid is shown to give the best protection against Powdery mildew when applied at 300ppm" and the chart shows better results than citric acid. Source

"Powdery mildew was significantly reduced with spraying aspirin at 2.5mM" on squash plants. Source

Since the molar mass of aspirin is 180.16 g/mol and they call for a 2.5mM solution, I used the molarity calculator here to tell me that I would need 225.2 milligrams (0.2252g) in 500ml of distilled water to get the 2.5mM dilution.

I'm having trouble finding a micromole to ppm calculator (where's @FelipeBlu when you need him?). Anyone here know how to do that calculation or find how to make a 300ppm dilution of aspirin? I need to keep checking online. I guess I could see if my old PPM meter still works and just keep adding more and measuring... :hmmmm:

Anyway, once I settle on a dilution I'll mix it up and test it on a fourth Candida clone that rooted to see if it does any leaf damage. If that looks good I'll dunk one of the Ruby Tuesday auto test buds in it and do a before/after scope of the trichomes. If there's no damage there then I'll try it on a single cola in the tent.

More as it happens!
Careful with that, @Racefan used aspirin to make feminised pollen.
 
Is it the same as pure salicylic acid? I’m sure you are all caught up on your chemistry but just being safe

Salicylic acid is treated with acetic anhydride, an acid derivative, causing a chemical reaction that turns salicylic acid's hydroxylgroup into an ester group (R-OH → R-OCOCH3). This process yields aspirin and acetic acid, which is considered a byproduct of this reaction. Small amounts of sulfuric acid (and occasionally phosphoric acid) are almost always used as a catalyst.

I hope it works, very interesting!
Thanks Justin! I did a little research on it first and found this:

"Aspirin can undergo hydrolysis, making it not as effective if it's exposed to water for extended periods of time. The technical name of the active ingredient in aspirin is acetylsalicylic acid. When it reacts with water, we end up with two products, salicylic acid and acetic acid."

Acetic acid is what's in vinegar so I'm not worried about it being an issue at the dilutions I'll be making, and I already have plain aspirin on hand. I can get pure salicylic acid if someone sees the acetic acid as an issue, but I figure I'll start with what's around.
Careful with that, @Racefan used aspirin to make feminised pollen.
Thanks Mel! He's using numbers hundreds of times stronger than what I'll be using.
 
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