Ha! I admit, I'm grudgingly at that point too. Dude seems to generally know what he's talking about. Lmao!!!!LMAO!
I sorta' believe in you Shed, for what it's worth.
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Ha! I admit, I'm grudgingly at that point too. Dude seems to generally know what he's talking about. Lmao!!!!LMAO!
I sorta' believe in you Shed, for what it's worth.
Yeah, if incest counts!Shed, the matchmaker
I never considered breaking open those silica packs except when I want a snack.just put the pollen in there with a few silica gel crystals (loose), and keep it in a cool, dark place- (sock drawers work well
Good idea! I actually saved the plastic tube my at-home Covid test came with...I knew it would come in handy, just not so soon.When you need to use the pollen, shake the tube up, and, thanks to static electricity, the pollen sticks to the sides and you can just rub a q-tip or brush on the side to load it up with pollen..
That LRX plant a few years ago was from pollen collected in 2014, so it was about 5 years old, and still viable.
This is what worked for me, might be something to think about...
He's many things to many people!Carcass, the pollinator...
I'll take "generally" all day.Ha! I admit, I'm grudgingly at that point too. Dude seems to generally know what he's talking about. Lmao!!!!
Will do sb...for the sake of clarity!Well your right i don't know how large or small your chairs are , so yes on the dimensions
They're clones, so wouldn't it be masturbation?Yeah, if incest counts!
Har. Not if you end up with seeds!They're clones, so wouldn't it be masturbation?
Thanks Carmen...so far so good!They are looking good, Shed.
They absolutely are.Are roots adversely affected by the light?
That's an extremely good explanation Shed, and it's 100% on point. I do the same thing or something very similar. It's the idea that there are two areas in the pot at that point, and it is good to see them that way for a bit. So you do the outside and then the inside. I repeat that cycle for maybe a week after up potting usually. It also draws a bunch of oxygen down into the tap root area when you do it this way since you're watering dry soil and roots in that space, and they respond very well in my experience. Superior post, thanks.I'll do a regular update later today, but I wanted to talk about something that I do that I'm not sure I've mentioned before, and someone might find it helpful.
After I transplanted the Candida into the 7 gallon pot on Monday I gave it a gallon of water. In the 1 gallon pot it would get about 1/3 of a gallon, but I wanted the water to soak down to the bottom where the new soil was, as well as watering in a ring about 2" beyond the circumference of the original pot.
A gallon of water is a lot for a 1 gallon rootball, but less than I would give a full grown plant in 7 gallon pots. I didn't want to saturate the entire 7 gallons because there are no roots to use it yet, and it could lead to a sad plant.
When I came home last night (3 days after the watering), the plant looked like this:
Why? Because it's still a 1 gallon plant drinking only the water that was in the original 1 gallon mass. The roots haven't grown to where the rest of the water sits and waits, so it's completely dry in 3 days as if it had never been transplanted.
So I watered it! But I didn't water the whole pot or even a 2" ring beyond the original edge. I watered just the middle as if I was watering the 1 gallon pot (with ~1/3rd gallon). That's the only part of the soil that was dry, so that's the only part I watered. All the rest of the water that I poured in on Monday is still sitting there waiting for roots.
Had I watered more than that I would be adding to the moisture in the soil that still has no roots in it, increasing the possibility of wet feet, low oxygen, and root rot.
Here it is this morning:
I do the same thing when I go from solo cups to 1 gallon pots!
I hope that made sense and might help someone with their watering after transplant. Carry on with what you were doing.
Thank you Shed.watering after transplant.
Thanks Jon!That's an extremely good explanation Shed, and it's 100% on point. I do the same thing or something very similar. It's the idea that there are two areas in the pot at that point, and it is good to see them that way for a bit. So you do the outside and then the inside. I repeat that cycle for maybe a week after up potting usually. It also draws a bunch of oxygen down into the tap root area when you do it this way since you're watering dry soil and roots in that space, and they respond very well in my experience. Superior post, thanks.
I don't pre-wet the soil ever. I want to control the amount of water since there aren't roots to fill the pot. Excess water leads to negative consequences.Thank you Shed.
Let me see if I understand you correctly. You don't pre-wet the soil? On the first watering you wet the soil 5 cm (2") from the outside of the root ball, right down to the bottom and avoiding contact with the root ball, then leave it to rest for 2 days, deliberately depriving the roots of water, and on the following day (day 3) on the second watering, you water directly into the root ball?
If I have that right, how much water would you suggest I use for my 20 litre grow bags in first, and then in second watering?
Thanks. No I am not. I have prepared solo cups and I have peat pucks for their first few days (is this a wrong thing?). I see that you and other experienced growers are up-potting to 4 litre pots before going bigger, so I will follow that process I think.Are you planting seeds directly into your 20L bags?
Hi @Carmen Ray - Shed's got you on the right track, you're in good hands. Nice eye on observing the up potting steps that many of us take. The reason it is done like that is because every time you fill a small container with roots and up pot it, that entire root ball is nice and solid and bristling with roots. So when you up pot from a Dixie cup to say a 1 gallon pot and then to like a five or seven or whatever, you are up potting an awesome, full mass of roots into nice fresh soil that they immediately want to expand into each time. The entire plant will grow more vigorously and the supposed "transplant shock" (largely hype if you do it correctly imho) will be almost nonexistent. By gradually up potting it is easier to control your watering and establish solid roots in each container versus trying to estimate where the roots are and water to that point "blindly" like in the example Shed explained. As he said, when you up pot it is easy to see the line between the established root ball you just put in and the new soil, which makes it way easier to water effectively. If I was really good and really patient (which I'm not, lol) I would do something like four or five up pottings for each plant. (this never happens, lol, it's just a fantasy perfect world for me...)Thanks. No I am not. I have prepared solo cups and I have peat pucks for their first few days (is this a wrong thing?). I see that you and other experienced growers are up-potting to 4 litre pots before going bigger, so I will follow that process I think.
Have a good nap!
That makes good sense.It's pretty easy to kill a plant with too much water.
In my experience, it's really hard to kill a plant with too little water. Amazingly hard. They'll almost always snap back from a dead wilted disaster-looking state, even if they lose some fans and look a little skinny. But the ones that got accidently drowned almost never come back well. It can take weeks to get them happy and vibrant again.
Dry soil is far better than soggy soil.
Be glad to. Taken yesterday of the Purple Urkle:If you stick around Carmen Ray shed will pull that clear cup out and show off his roots .
Thanks, I slept 2 hours which surprised me when I rolled over and it was 4:30pm.Thanks. No I am not. I have prepared solo cups and I have peat pucks for their first few days (is this a wrong thing?). I see that you and other experienced growers are up-potting to 4 litre pots before going bigger, so I will follow that process I think.
Have a good nap!
Excellent explanation, thanks Jon!Hi @Carmen Ray - Shed's got you on the right track, you're in good hands. Nice eye on observing the up potting steps that many of us take. The reason it is done like that is because every time you fill a small container with roots and up pot it, that entire root ball is nice and solid and bristling with roots. So when you up pot from a Dixie cup to say a 1 gallon pot and then to like a five or seven or whatever, you are up potting an awesome, full mass of roots into nice fresh soil that they immediately want to expand into each time. The entire plant will grow more vigorously and the supposed "transplant shock" (largely hype if you do it correctly imho) will be almost nonexistent. By gradually up potting it is easier to control your watering and establish solid roots in each container versus trying to estimate where the roots are and water to that point "blindly" like in the example Shed explained. As he said, when you up pot it is easy to see the line between the established root ball you just put in and the new soil, which makes it way easier to water effectively. If I was really good and really patient (which I'm not, lol) I would do something like four or five up pottings for each plant. (this never happens, lol, it's just a fantasy perfect world for me...)
Just my two cents in support of what you're already being told.
Well-said Graytail! Rotting roots take a long time to recover.It's pretty easy to kill a plant with too much water.
In my experience, it's really hard to kill a plant with too little water. Amazingly hard. They'll almost always snap back from a dead wilted disaster-looking state, even if they lose some fans and look a little skinny. But the ones that got accidently drowned almost never come back well. It can take weeks to get them happy and vibrant again.
Dry soil is far better than soggy soil.
Nice root action! I'm super impressed at how organized you are given your busy schedule. You must have been tired to pass out for 2 hours... nice Have a great weekend Shed, and thank you for helping me so much. What do you think about the intensity of my light, to get another view? If I have measured correctly, my jiffy pellets sit at between 450 and 460 ppdf. I did a conversion online and it makes 19565 Lux or over a 24 hour period I think it is 39,74 DLI? Do you think that is safe or would you raise the light a bit? The cotyledons are not out yet.Taken yesterday of the Purple Urkle:
If your plant hasn't sprouted yet then none of it matters, but when they emerge, I think in terms of lux and use this from Royal Queen Seeds as a general guide (also posted in your thread):What do you think about the intensity of my light, to get another view? If I have measured correctly, my jiffy pellets sit at between 450 and 460 ppdf. I did a conversion online and it makes 19565 Lux or over a 24 hour period I think it is 39,74 DLI? Do you think that is safe or would you raise the light a bit? The cotyledons are not out yet.