InTheShed Grows Inside & Out: Jump In Any Time

those root-cut plants didn't slow down a lick! Amazing huh?
I really enjoy the art and horticultural culture of bonsai. Root pruning is a critical aspect of creating bonsai. It helps improve ramification in the foliage canopy as well as the roots themselves. I can't believe I never though about doing it to my cannabis plants. I had one of those "duuuhhhh" moments when I read your post. I am very motivated to create a styled bonsai cannabis plant this year. I may also do my own comparison grow with two plants. One root pruned and the other one uppotted with minimal root disruption.
 
Thanks for the explanation. After listening to all of the KiS podcast. Well not all of them but a bunch this makes perfect sense. The guy that wrote the book teaming with microbes wrote three editions you can see the science change through the three books. They though the world was flat then found out it wasn’t.

Edit: it’s episode 2 and the guys name is Jeff Lowenfels

Edit 2: another dude Nelson Lindsey , poetry of plants, uses a hybrid method of organics and ionic nutrients.
I love the Kis organics podcasts , knowladge is power boys and girls, and we are now at a point in cannabis cultivation where people can leagally put money into scientific research and open share all the findings , we would not here here without the legalization of this amazing plant .
While you're all absorbing all of the nutrient info (but not distilled water I hope), here is a picture of my Candidas this morning, a little over two weeks after the root pruning and thinning:

For comparison, this was them three days after pruning:
full


They're fuller but not much taller, and growing without missing a beat (or their roots!). As I like to say, a plant knows how many fans it needs. :cheesygrinsmiley:



On to another topic to make this an actual update, I heard back from my contact at Premier Tech, the maker of ProMix as well as their own brand of mycorrhizae. I asked him about the two articles I've posted here, and I'll quote the key parts of his response to both issues below.

Regarding the issue of high levels of phosphorus causing the mycorrhizae to go dormant, he said:
"If a high rate of phosphorus is applied, it is the amount of elemental ‘P’ can cause endomycorrhizae to become dormant. Therefore, elemental phosphorus ‘P’ should be applied at a concentration or rate of 25 ppm phosphorus or less. (not sure who said 10 ppm…but this is not correct). One application above 25 ppms does not cause mycorrhizae to become dormant. You would need repeated applications at a high rate.

"Remember that the plant is also picking up some of the nutrients that are applied.

"Research has shown that plants do not require high phosphorus for root development, so the old 20-20-20 type fertilizers have been replaced with low phosphorus formulations. (20-2-20 for example) In fact, fertilizers formulated with high phosphorus and ammonium nitrogen cause elongation in plants (stretch) above the soil line."


So it’s the residual PPM of phosphorus in the soil over time rather than the PPM of the P going in with the fertilizer that will cause dormancy in the mycorrhizae. As such it probably wouldn’t cause a problem, particularly with regular runoff clearing old accumulations from the medium.

That said, I can certainly see the high levels of P that are included in some cannabis nutrient lines having a negative effect on mycorrhizae populations in a grow.

Regarding the Chinese vs Canadian peat question I can't really quote all of what he said, but his response was basically this:
The research quoted is old and based on the inclusion of the mycorrhizae that the company purchased (rather than developing their own). Additionally, it was tested with a different type of mycorrhizae. It is most effective to use live, viable spores.

In summary, I will go back to adding mycorrhizae to my medium on transplant, and since @DYNOMYCO uses mycorrhizae tailored to cannabis, I'll make sure to include it going forward (and keep an eye on my phosphorus PPM).

:thanks: for listening!
Great read well done , I was completely oblivious of the negative affects of p to our benificial fungi that is so essential to our root system. Is this an old mother plant ? Just curious been a long time since I’ve been by the shed , hope all is well brother
 
I really enjoy the art and horticultural culture of bonsai. Root pruning is a critical aspect of creating bonsai. It helps improve ramification in the foliage canopy as well as the roots themselves. I can't believe I never though about doing it to my cannabis plants. I had one of those "duuuhhhh" moments when I read your post. I am very motivated to create a styled bonsai cannabis plant this year. I may also do my own comparison grow with two plants. One root pruned and the other one uppotted with minimal root disruption.
I can't imagine it doesn't slow a plant down compared to one that hasn't been root-pruned, but slowing down a bonsai or mother plant is rarely a bad thing!
Great read well done , I was completely oblivious of the negative affects of p to our benificial fungi that is so essential to our root system. Is this an old mother plant ? Just curious been a long time since I’ve been by the shed , hope all is well brother
Thanks for stopping by DW! All three of those were cut in September, and the one in the GeoPot is the one I'm keeping as a mother plant. The other two are for the long-simmering Candida seed-making project. I now await Chris' return from his month-long trip to the Gulf Coast so he can send me the makings for STS, since a little goes a long way!
 
Ahoy there!
Not to interrupt your tinkering and conversations butt. :hookah:

Aye, we been hearing some stories about our brother on the lost coast, so I figured to stop in. The behind the scenes workings of our member of the year buzzing round my head, I have one thing to tell you my younger brother.

The winds of good fortune fill the sails of real people that cross your path.
We are proud of you. :love:
 
Regarding the issue of high levels of phosphorus causing the mycorrhizae to go dormant, he said:
"If a high rate of phosphorus is applied, it is the amount of elemental ‘P’ can cause endomycorrhizae to become dormant. Therefore, elemental phosphorus ‘P’ should be applied at a concentration or rate of 25 ppm phosphorus or less. (not sure who said 10 ppm…but this is not correct). One application above 25 ppms does not cause mycorrhizae to become dormant. You would need repeated applications at a high rate.

"Remember that the plant is also picking up some of the nutrients that are applied.

"Research has shown that plants do not require high phosphorus for root development, so the old 20-20-20 type fertilizers have been replaced with low phosphorus formulations. (20-2-20 for example) In fact, fertilizers formulated with high phosphorus and ammonium nitrogen cause elongation in plants (stretch) above the soil line."

Hmm, more validation to a low P feed regime. My current 6g Mega Crop is 40.95 ppm. The new fertilizer I'm trying is 22.75 but I don't have any mycos in my Faux-Mix. Maybe the reason that I never noticed a different between using Pro-Mix with mycos vs Faux-Mix without is because I was using a fertilizer that supplied too much P.
 
Ahoy there!
Not to interrupt your tinkering and conversations butt.
Aye, we been hearing some stories about our brother on the lost coast, so I figured to stop in. The behind the scenes workings of our member of the year buzzing round my head, I have one thing to tell you my younger brother.
The winds of good fortune fill the sails of real people that cross your path.
We are proud of you. :love:
Thank you kindly Maritimer. There's always a fresh breeze off the sea when you stop by!
Hmm, more validation to a low P feed regime. My current 6g Mega Crop is 40.95 ppm. The new fertilizer I'm trying is 22.75 but I don't have any mycos in my Faux-Mix. Maybe the reason that I never noticed a different between using Pro-Mix with mycos vs Faux-Mix without is because I was using a fertilizer that supplied too much P.
Maybe! Next time blend in some mycos in one and see if you can tell a difference.
 
:nomo:
Growin and learnin.
 
Hmm, more validation to a low P feed regime. My current 6g Mega Crop is 40.95 ppm. The new fertilizer I'm trying is 22.75 but I don't have any mycos in my Faux-Mix. Maybe the reason that I never noticed a different between using Pro-Mix with mycos vs Faux-Mix without is because I was using a fertilizer that supplied too much P.
Doubt MC is too hot P. I run hotter than recommended intentionally. My lights will cotton top most strains without pumping more chow at her than what is stated. And after I dump a container the colonization of healthy myco's is evident and that is after a high rate of fertigation the entire time in flower. just my 2 cents bro
 
:nomo:
Growin and learnin.
:circle-of-love: Thanks Baron!
Doubt MC is too hot P. I run hotter than recommended intentionally. My lights will cotton top most strains without pumping more chow at her than what is stated. And after I dump a container the colonization of healthy myco's is evident and that is after a high rate of fertigation the entire time in flower. just my 2 cents bro
You're also natural running plant growth regulators on your beauties, so that may play a part in what the plants can use. And as I mentioned in my original post, it's the residual P left in the soil over time rather than what we're feeding them that affects the mycorrhizae colonies. So the PGRs may be allowing the plant to use more nutrients, leaving less in the soil.

After all, using CO2 (correctly) also requires higher levels of nutes than "normal."
 
Ahoy there!
Not to interrupt your tinkering and conversations butt. :hookah:

Aye, we been hearing some stories about our brother on the lost coast, so I figured to stop in. The behind the scenes workings of our member of the year buzzing round my head, I have one thing to tell you my younger brother.

The winds of good fortune fill the sails of real people that cross your path.
We are proud of you. :love:
What a very nice post Maritimer. :love:
 
Hmm, more validation to a low P feed regime.
Well you always knew that anyhow! It was trying to convince everyone else!

Phosphorus is also the primary contributor to plant stretch. Too much P will lead to excessive internode elongation and tall plants. That’s why it’s important to limit excessive P in grow applications.
Ideally you only want 1 or 2 parts of P to N. You can see in the image below that there isn't much P in a typical plant tissue sample.

1599766866903.png
 
Well you always knew that anyhow! It was trying to convince everyone else!

Phosphorus is also the primary contributor to plant stretch. Too much P will lead to excessive internode elongation and tall plants. That’s why it’s important to limit excessive P in grow applications.
Ideally you only want 1 or 2 parts of P to N. You can see in the image below that there isn't much P in a typical plant tissue sample.
But it's so hard to find nute lines low in phosphorus.
Sorry I missed it!
 
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