Indicas Grow & Experimenting Genetics Part II - Winter Indoor Organic Grow

[KingJohnC]

Give me a minute I'm slowly digesting the information... lol

This means that if I have all the variables I could apply the reverse square law equation to calculate the perfect distance from the lights to the top of the soil ?? (not the top of the canopy if we indeed want to cover the full extent of the plant) and that would stop my leaves from their necrotic death?

-Keep in mind the actual distance from top soil - lights is 43 inches right now.
-The 9 other Cannabis plants I have running next are not showing any signs of leaf deterioration to the extent of the Blue Berry. But they are one month younger and have not shown signs of sex.

One more question

How could we be sure that all these visible symptoms are not a consequences of some sorts of "light shock" from an extended Diminishing Light Schedule photoperiod that started at 14/10 and loses an hour each month that passes by rather than slowly decreasing by day allowing the plant to properly adapt itself to the hormonal changes?

In nature the daylight shortens by every 24 hr cycle (here in my area), so every day the plant could adapt more comfortably to the hormonal changes induced by flowering. But when I sustain this photoperiod I force the plant to repeat for X amount of time the same hormonal producing signal over and over again, pattern we see in 18/6 photoperiod we call Veg, the same signal is repeated with the same strength and very clear "produce more leaves".

Could this be why the plant only is pushing out 1 leaflet leaves we know as sugar leaf and not the traditional 5-7 pointed leaf? Even more weird is that the plant keeps shooting leaf, calyx, pistils and visible trichomes almost at the same ratio (signs of early flowering). Also the photoperiod right now should not allow theses plants to flower yet the Blue Berry is very ready to receive pollen as we can tell from the abundance of pistils... Why is she doing all this? It can't all be a result of inaccuracy in the distance canopy-lights, it would be to easy to figure out how to grow indoors, we just apply the equation to find the right distance in accordance to the out put of the light source. And we all know it not all about a lot light and a lot of nuts it takes far more than that to have healthy looking plants.

So we are playing with two variables in the experiment distance from the lights and photoperiod. Never mind UVB radiation we just started that today.

How is it possible that one plant is so far in pre-flowering showing the amount of pistils as the Blue Berry is, and next to it totally identical conditions I have 9 different plants sharing the same medium and they manage to grow without the funkiness of the Bleu Berry?? I have no explanation to what I am seeing in this plants...

If the cause of the lower leaves yellowing is related to low light then increasing the amount of light to the plants lower levels would alleviate this. Some cannabis plants begin flowering under 14/10 14 hours of light and 10 hours of darkness. I do not believe that the cause of yellowing leaves is related to flower hormones as many cannabis plants in flower maintain their green leaves until late flower.

 

[KingJohnC]

Ok after doing some calculations I came to this number KingJ

Right now I need to cover a surface 43" height X 32" width X 32" depth which corresponds too the available space, with my 44,000 lumens at 600 watts.

Applying the formula Intensity = I/(d)2

From the Origin of the light source point 0" to 12" from it = technically I have most of my out put intact hitting my surface that is my plants pot at (11") of surface. 44,000 lumens at 600 watts.

from 12" to 24" = 2 times the radius (12"x12") or 2 x distance from point 0, 4 times the surface is covered so I lose proportionally inverse intensity = 144 square inches of surface are covered but I lose half the intensity 22,000 lumens at 300watts.

from 24" to 36" = 3 times the radius (12"x12"x12") or 9 times the surface is covered, I lose intensity = I cover 1,728 cubic inches of space but now I have 14,666 Lumens at 200 watts.

Applying the formula Intensity = I/d2

Intensity = 44,000 Lumens / (3 x 12inches)2
Intensity = 44,000 Lumens / 1,296 (inch)2
Intensity = 33,95 Lumens per (inch)2.
Square root of Intensity = Square root of 33,95 Lumens per (inch)2
Intensity = 5.826 Lumens per inch

Intensity = 600 watt / (3 x 12 inches)2
Intensity = 600 watt / 1,296 (inch)2
Intensity = 0.462 watt per (inch)2
Square root of Intensity = Square root of 0.462 watt per (inches)2
Intensity = 0.68 watts per inch.

Im really not sure about this calculations... thats the best I could do actually, does it even sound possible??

Yes I believe that you are correct. When your plants are flowering you will see growth fade at a certain point from the illumination source that determines your illumination sources effective flowering distance.

 

[Danishoes21]

I almost feel tempted to extend for one more month the 13/11 photoperiod, just to see where it takes me. If I can proof that one can vegetate and pre flower at the same time it's a cost effective way to grow cannabis, reducing from 18/6 to 13/11 as a starting photoperiod. Right now all the little ones are really pre flowering showing pistil on almost every bud site and at the same time they are shooting fan leaves not sugar leves, also it seems that the ones already pre flowering are indica dominants, because I have a couple that have no signs of pre flowers (I can only asume they are more Sativa dominants, needing more time).

A more simpler approach: If I can find the exact photoperiod in which cannabis does the typical pre flower "stretch" and sustain it for long period of time (2-4 months) they plants should continuously "stretch" meaning shooting pistils and vegetating at the same time. Then flowering times should shorten and the transition less stress full...

 

[Danishoes21]

I had some time today so here is the photo update of the week.

Pheno #1
Best looking traits of them all, she did pull out several male pre flowers, I carefully removed, and now is showing some pistils with is actually exciting despite what I think is a hermie... any ways I will keep her as my most preferred candidate for breeding. Thriving growth very nice structure.

(FLASH)

Pheno #2
Is the Jamaican Sativa traits I had already seen, but she is so slow Im not keeping a close eye. Still no signs of pre flowering.
(NO PIC)

Pheno #3
This is the first to show pre flowers, and is my second preferred candidate for breeding, she has a nice dark green color, she might go purplish during the final stage of flower. She is now showing pistils on almost all of the bud sites. not just the top, most of the bottom growth is now showing pistils.

(FLASH)

Pheno #4
This looks like a weaker version of pheno#3 stalky wanky not really appealing. No good traits here.

Pheno #5
Also showing pistils but has no good traits for breeding.

Pheno #6
Similar to pheno #5 and very interesting traits I have never seen in my previous grows. I believe this is the supposed "LA Confidential" seeds I have. Possible candidate for breeding.

Pheno #7
Very Sativa looking not such appealing traits, not really a candidate for breeding. She is showing pistils.

Group Shots\

I find it very hard to believe that 7 of the 9 plants are showing female pre flowers, they are all regular seeds, It can't be just coincidence...

 

[Danishoes21]

Second part of the Update.-

Here are close ups of the Blue Berry, as you can see the top of the plant is covered in trichomes the more I zoom in the more trichomes seem to be revealed, yet they seem in very early stage. This plant has been pre flowering for quite some time now, and with the addition of UVb more trichomes seem to be developing, I can say after this grow I will always supply UBV to my indoor grows, at a proper distance from the plants they don't harm and they seem to promote growth in other ways, like its seen here most plants showing pistils from top to bottom... Bottom branches seem to be packing calyxes and very little leaf matter. The remaining fan leaves seem to not fall off despite being in such bad shape. The plant seems to be growing in her own funky way, she looks really weird (terrible) no new leaves, like a dwarf plant with only calyxes and pistils.
So my dilema is should I run one more month the same photoperiod of 13/11 to see what direction they take... They are all getting ready for 12/12 but if I don't allow them to fully go into to flower I can keep packing them up or cause some lights shock or some sort of stress... I really feel that the experiment needs to extend one more month of 13/11 photoperiod to be more conclusive.

Comments and thoughts always welcome.

 

[Danishoes21]

Routine Check up.

Looking good

 

[Danishoes21]

This plants are growing pretty quick, in one week so much change. So I have decided to leave them at 13/11 till the end of February to see if the keep growing like this. If they don't deteriorate like the other plant then 13/11 is a pretty cost effective light schedule to gro fast pre flowering vegetating plants ready to flower at any time by just switching to 12/12, I wouldn't go back to 18/6. By the end of February we can see if it works out or not.

Pheno#1

Pheno#3

Pheno#6

Pheno#7

Group

///-Blue Berry-///

Im very happy so far with the results.

 

[Danishoes21]

Routine inspection.

 

[b.real]

coming along nicely

 

[Danishoes21]

coming along nicely

thanks bro respect

 

[Danishoes21]

They are really starting to take off

Pheno #1 is at 1 foot tall
Pheno #2 is at 11 inches
Blue Berry is 9 1/2 inches

 

[Danishoes21]

Fresh week starts and the ladies remain at 13/11 photoperiod, this month is decisive, hope to see some great results by the end of the month.

Good vibes everyone

 

[Danishoes21]

 

[Danishoes21]

A Close up at the Blue Berry.

Phenos (using flash)

 

[Danishoes21]

UPDATE

PHENO #1 (Best traits)

 

[Danishoes21]

UPDATE

PHENO #3 (first to show pistil)

 

[Danishoes21]

UPDATE

PHENO #6 (Suspected "LA Confidential")

PHENO #7 (Sativa looking traits)

 

[Danishoes21]

UPDATE

OTHERS & GROUP

 

[Danishoes21]

UPDATE

BLUE BERRY

 

[b.real]

they look good. I think your new batch of plants are going to be very potent