In The Lab

sticki said:
Im going to it now and start reading, how long have you been using this system?
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Mornin sticki....Welcome aboard our "gang" brotha. You can't go wrong with Doc's. gear .It's been a god send to many of us growers ,who over the yrs. have battled many probs. with grows. None with this system of growing though. If you remember to follow Doc's instructions to the letter for the first couple grows, then after you get some experience with the gear you can try tweeking things a little here and there but only after you feel like you've got a handle on things.All of us here can and will help with any questions that you may have and Doc is very good at answering questions.....still can't figure out where he gets all the time!Remember sticki....luck has nothing to do with growing with this system! Cheers and have a great day.....Duggs.:circle-of-love:
 
duggan said:
Mornin sticki....Welcome aboard our "gang" brotha. You can't go wrong with Doc's. gear .It's been a god send to many of us growers ,who over the yrs. have battled many probs. with grows. None with this system of growing though. If you remember to follow Doc's instructions to the letter for the first couple grows, then after you get some experience with the gear you can try tweeking things a little here and there but only after you feel like you've got a handle on things.All of us here can and will help with any questions that you may have and Doc is very good at answering questions.....still can't figure out where he gets all the time!Remember sticki....luck has nothing to do with growing with this system! Cheers and have a great day.....Duggs.:circle-of-love:
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Thanks, I appreciate the support. And sure there will be questions along the way. Ive been gardening since a kid when my grandpa used to have me in the garden picking the vegs. Im hoping this helps bring financial freedom to me and the fam while benefiting from the good clean medicine. My mind is made up im diving in!!
 
Any of the 0-32 listed on the 'bay. :cheesygrinsmiley:

I have the one in the blue box - comes with a dropper and screwdriver, etc.
 
NematodeNate said:
Hee yaw....I got condensation in my tote.....ur rite doc.....it has warmed up tremendously this last week here and now I got the fuzz and the condensation....

I truly can't wait to get started.....my first grow I have learned a lot...like maybe not to run three different strains your first time.

This ph thing is a pain in the butt....1 girl is doing awesome...one looks like a potassium def......and one just looks locked out...they are all running about 6.8 which I know is high....lol.

Anyway sorry bout the rant.......hey doc do have a question about the trimmings we add to the cooking soil. Do we just leave them alone on top? It looks like they are definitely getting eaten.......when we are ready to use the soil does all the trimmings need to be broken down?
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Nate, I was was already schooled on this after I had done it but don't add non HB trim to your cooking soil. If you already did it, don't add anymore. I'm sure doc or someone will chime in on this too.
 
neikodog said:
Nate, I was was already schooled on this after I had done it but don't add non HB trim to your cooking soil. If you already did it, don't add anymore. I'm sure doc or someone will chime in on this too.
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Oops....I did. But I trimmed some more today and thought I'd better not, and now I'm checking threads and bam, here it's is....it's like you have esp neiko....lol. Thanks bud.
 
I was reading some articles about chernozem soils, a highly productive soil found in Ukraine, southern Russia, and parts of western Canada.
Soils of Canada - Orders - Chernozemic

If I am understanding things right, these soils have a lot in common with the soils created with Doc's kit. Wikipedia:

Chernozem (from Russian: чернозём, tr. chernozyom; IPA: [tɕɪrnɐˈzʲɵm], "black dirt" or "black earth", is a black-coloured soil containing a high percentage of humus[1] (7% to 15%), and high percentages of phosphoric acids, phosphorus and ammonia.[citation needed] Chernozem is very fertile and produces a high agricultural yield.
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An interesting thing about Chernozem soil: annual frozen periods seem to be required to maintain the soil profile. I was struck by the fertility of Ukraine when I was there last summer. Leaves of pretty much everything seemed brighter and shinier. Ukrainian tomatoes, potatoes, greens,even onions, were some of the most flavorful and delicious I've ever tasted....
 
conradino23 said:
I actually wanted to hear from you Doc abut this soil as High Brix soil: Terra rossa (soil) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia.
Close, pretty close or far?
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That's the right idea...absolutely. The extra iron content creates a unique flavor profile in crops, and the high calcium soils produce nutrient dense, high brix produce if everything else is done properly. This is exactly the kind of thing we want to not just recreate, but improve on with high brix soil.

These types of rich soils are what inspired the research and led to the discoveries of what makes crops grow well.

Excellent.
 
Right on, Doc. It's not a common soil in northern Italy, but there are pieces of land here and there that are exclusively red... and I just found one nearby on top of the mountain :) I'll get some for my potted plants and will grow some of my Aurora Ultras there later on. But I think I'll have to cut it as it's the kind of soil heavy in clay, maybe biochar and some straw would do it, right?
 
conradino23 said:
Right on, Doc. It's not a common soil in northern Italy, but there are pieces of land here and there that are exclusively red... and I just found one nearby on top of the mountain :) I'll get some for my potted plants and will grow some of my Aurora Ultras there later on. But I think I'll have to cut it as it's the kind of soil heavy in clay, maybe biochar and some straw would do it, right?
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If it were me, I'd cut it with peat. Furthermore, if you can make a dirt clod or sticky mud out of it, I'd amend with limestone, gypsum and SRP.

I'd only use biochar sparingly.
 
Hmm yeah I been thinking about limestone or lithotamnium a kind of extract from red algae or calcareous algae, which I can get quite cheap. It's supposed to be 85-90% calcium and 10-15% magnesium, but I'm not sure if I should believe it so I'll have to send an e-mail to the producer. Biochar will go too for sure as a bamboo biochar, high in silica, which I've used before. Polymers I don't know if I need, and was thinking more about more sand or straw, locking nitrogen excess in the short run and providing more aeration, and almost no potassium here :bong:

I'll keep going down this line :passitleft:
 
hey doc, I would love to pick up a kit of your. Seen all the amazing results, love and respect of your kits from all of the users I just have to become apart of the ride too. I would love some info when you can please.
 
itsbeer30 said:
hey doc, I would love to pick up a kit of your. Seen all the amazing results, love and respect of your kits from all of the users I just have to become apart of the ride too. I would love some info when you can please.
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Check you PM's
 
Speaking of peat...

I've been trying to understand the use of a peat based medium (Promix ) for a living soil. I keep seeing references to peat's anti-microbial properties.

Is there something about peat that promotes beneficial microbes while keeping the baddies at bay? Does it act as a population regulator, keeping beneficial at a steady level? Do the antimicrobial properties not come into play under normal growing conditions? Slightly confused...
 
MaxYields said:
Hey Doc, I have a quick question... My guess is reusing soil indoors, that has already been used outdoors is probably a big no no huh?
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I wouldn't do it.
 
Doc, I have seedlings now. They are a couple days old in your soil. At which point would I start the foliar sprays and which ones when?

I also waited a day or 2 after they sprouted to water with transplant. Full strength ok?
 
incontrol7 said:
Doc, I have seedlings now. They are a couple days old in your soil. At which point would I start the foliar sprays and which ones when?

I also waited a day or 2 after they sprouted to water with transplant. Full strength ok?
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Please follow the directions! They are linked in my signature below and are on page 55 of this thread.

Seeds:

Using a gallon sized container of newly cooked High Brix soil, make sure the soil is still slightly moist from the barrel. Not soaking wet....but moist.

Using a pencil, or chopstick or a non-functioning vape pen, make a divet in the soil about 1/4 inch deep. Add a small amount of ROOTS! in and around this hole, in which you deposit the seed and lightly cover with surrounding dirt. Gently water with 1/4 strength Transplant if needed to keep the soil moist, but not wet.
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Wait till the seedlings have 5 sets of leaves before beginning the foliars.

Follow these guidelines:

Use of Foliar Sprays:

Spray Brix and De-Stress 1 time weekly, not on the same day! De-Stress can be sprayed twice a week if the plants continue to exhibit signs of stress.

Mix each spray at 1 oz per quart of RO, using a fine mist try to get the underside of the leaves.
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I copied and pasted from the instructions.
 
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