In The Lab

Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

Oh, okay. When I thought kit I assumed you had brewed up something simple. And is there a simple foliar spray that you know of?
And I was basically asking what amendments you use with you soil that work best with foliar sprays ^^^^^^^^?
I'm fairly familiar with high brix growing (read alot of your journals) and I am not necessarily shooting for high brix but I am shooting for a nice detailed organic grow with teas, foliar sprays and all the joy of mixing soils.
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

koffeekush said:
Oh, okay. When I thought kit I assumed you had brewed up something simple. And is there a simple foliar spray that you know of?
And I was basically asking what amendments you use with you soil that work best with foliar sprays ^^^^^^^^?
I'm fairly familiar with high brix growing (read alot of your journals) and I am not necessarily shooting for high brix but I am shooting for a nice detailed organic grow with teas, foliar sprays and all the joy of mixing soils.
Click to expand...

Well you should do a grow similar to what I was doing before this.

Basic mineralized soil with organic ferts and teas. It would be 2 journals ago.....check it out.

But, if you're going to go through the trouble of mixing teas and soils why wouldn't you want to go High Brix? It's just better in every way. Seriously, it is.

BTW, the kit comes with everything but the soil. It's a complete, professionally designed product with everything you need to grow six plants from seedling to harvest in the best soil possible.
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

Does the journal you're talking about give a soil recipe? and what is that journal called?
And I thought that having a rich organic soil was necessary for high brix growing, maybe I am confused.
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

koffeekush said:
Does the journal you're talking about give a soil recipe? and what is that journal called?
And I thought that having a rich organic soil was necessary for high brix growing, maybe I am confused.
Click to expand...
I don't remember the name of my journals....but if you go to my profile, you can see all the threads I've started.

The journal right before "true high brix" is the one.

Organic soil doesn't necessarily create high brix. It just depends on the ratio of nutrients and the calcium levels. My organic soil grows were really great at the time....or so I thought. But when I had my primo soil tested it failed miserably for High Brix.

The difference between the proper soil and the best organic I could muster is pretty stark. This style of growing is also less expensive and less work.
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

Organic soil doesn't necessarily create high brix. It just depends on the ratio of nutrients and the calcium levels. My organic soil grows were really great at the time....or so I thought. But when I had my primo soil tested it failed miserably for High Brix.
Click to expand...

What did you do to fix the lox brix levels?
And what makes it a high brix soil?
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

koffeekush said:
What did you do to fix the lox brix levels?
And what makes it a high brix soil?
Click to expand...

I say this with all the gentleness and respect I can muster:

dude, I spent many hours and much money to learn all this. I've given it to you for free.....all you have to do is read what has has already been written for you. I will not do your homework for you. I'll answer questions that aren't already answered 20 times in detailed explanations elsewhere.....but this journal is about my kit and how to use it.

It is very simple and easy to use, and that's what this journal is for.

About 12 people here on the forum have "copied" my grow style and they did it by reading my journals and following instructions. I didn't spoon feed them....they engaged their own brains, read the information and asked questions AFTER they read it.

They will tell you that I will give detailed answers to questions all the time.....but I don't run a kindergarten.

Read the first few pages of each of my journals and you'll find my soil mix, learn about mineralization of soil. feeding, cooking, etc. I've done a very good job documenting all of it for YOUR benefit.

Ask questions on my True High Brix journal if you like, and I'll answer them promptly and thoroughly. But not here, unless you're using my kit or are asking questions about my kit.
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

Curso said:
Doc I do have a question about the "soak"; Going straight into 12/12 should I do the soak at about 4 weeks of bloom?
Click to expand...

Great question!

I like to do the root drenching a couple days before a transplant. If you're not transplanting, but starting in the same container you're finishing in----which I do not recommend, but it happens----give them a good soaking right when it appears the flowering hormones are kicking in.....then again when stretch seems to have stopped.

Co-ordinate the deep root drench with the re-charge if possible!
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

Complete Instructions for the Kit.

I'll try to get a moderator to post this on the first page of the journal, but until then, just remember it's on page 5!

How To Use the High Brix Gardening Kit


This kit, used properly, will grow herbs, fruits and vegetables in such a way to produce the best flavor, highest nutrient density and healthiest, pest-free plants possible. Everything in this kit is a result of detailed soil tests and meticulous feeding schedules formulated by a lab that specializes in High Brix gardening.


What you will need:


1.)The kit. You have that already if you're reading this!



2.)Six pots of about 7 gallons each, OR seven “smart pots” in the 5 gallon range. Do not use smaller than 5 gallons. You will not have the success you should have if you use smaller pots.


3.)A small, graduated measuring glass, up to one ounce.


4.)An eye dropper, preferably marked in .5ml increments. The cheap, disposable ones are perfect.



5.)a very good spray bottle that puts out a fine mist.


6.)a proper, climate controlled growing area. IE, you can't grow tomatoes outside in the dead of winter, even with this kit. You can't grow a nice herb garden in a closet that gets over 100 degrees and up to 80%rh....even with this kit.


7.)One bale---3.8 cubic feet---of ProMix HP. Do not use another soil. It won't work. Everything in this kit is designed around ProMix HP. Don't be a jackass and use another soil, stick with what's recommended and be blown away.



8.)Optional: 20 pounds of organic worm castings. NOT composted worm manure.....real castings.


9.)Garbage cans, large tank, etc. 60 gallons in size, or two 40's, etc. You'll need enough for about 60 gallons of soil.


What is included in the kit:


1.)Soil amendment. Minerals, plant food, etc. There is one large bag of this marked, “Amendment”



2.)Soil re-charge. Similar to the amendment but with a a few additions. There is a bag marked “re-charge.)



3.)Root [FONT=ArialMT, sans-serif]Mycorrhizal[/FONT] inoculate. This is added to the transplant hole, or the hole where seeds are germinated. This bag is marked “Root Zone.”



4.)8 oz foliar spray “Brix”



5.) 8 oz foliar spray called “Stress”



6.) 6 oz fertilizer called, “Energy”



7.) 1 oz soil conditioner called, “Conditioner.”



  1. 1 oz concentrated microbial boost called “Tea”

  2. 1 oz Organic Nutrient Extract, called “transplant”




A word of advice:


Everything in this kit is synergistic. The soil is perfectly balanced with every mineral in perfect ratio. Don't do something stupid like adding a product your Uncle's friend recommended. Don't fall for the “more is better” trap. Use the products exactly as instructed, stand back, and amaze yourself, your family, and all the new friends you'll make when they try your produce. Do not use any other products in conjunction with this kit! They will not help, and will only hurt.


Step One: Soil Prep


Thoroughly mix the following:


1.)ProMix HP
2.)Amendment
3.)Worm Castings


This will fill a 40 gallon barrel and spill over to halfway fill another 40 gallon barrel. Put half the mix in the barrel and water with .5 oz of Conditioner in 1.5 gallons of water. Put the other half of the mix in the barrel and water with another .5 oz of Conditioner in 1.5 gallons of water.



(note: If you're using 40 gallon cans water the first half with one gallon, the second half with one gallon, and use the one remaining gallon in the partially full can.)


Ideally, this mix sits covered in a trash can for one month, during which time visible fungus will be seen as white, wispy cotton on the surface of the soil. Don't worry if you don't get visible fungus on top. Everything will still work fine.







Step Two: Transplanting/germination


Using a starter pot ½ to 1 gallon in size....


If transplanting cuttings, skip step 4. For seed germination, do not skip step 4.



  1. Fill with the soil from step one.
  2. Make a hole large enough to accommodate the cutting
  3. Coat inside of hole with “Root Zone” Be liberal, but don't run out till you've covered every plant. There should be ample amount in the kit.
  4. If germinating seeds, make the hole and apply Root Zone and deposit seed AFTER watering in step 5.
  5. water each cutting/seed with 1 pint of Transplant Water. Recipe for Transplant Water: 1 oz “Transplant” per 1 gallon of water. After wetting the soil with regular water, finish watering with Transplant Water, 1 pint per pot.


Step Three: Vegetative Growth


We're going to build some roots. We don't care so much about leaves at this point, although they'll start looking really nice too.


The first watering after transplant can be with with straight water.
If the plants look healthy, the next 1 or 2 watering are also done with straight water.


Every third watering, use the following:



  1. One half ounce (.5oz) of “Energy” in one gallon of water.
  2. 2ml of “Tea.” Add this to a small amount of water, like an 8oz cup and let it sit for a few minutes before pouring it into the gallon of “Energy.”


The above mix is ample for the size of garden recommended. More is NOT BETTER!


The idea here is to take that gallon of feed water and evenly distribute it to each plant. If you use five gallon buckets, you'll need two of them, ½ gallon in each bucket, just make sure the gallon of feed water is evenly fed to all plants.






Foliar Spraying:


When cuttings are established, or when seedlings have 5 sets of leaves, it's time to spray. This is the heart and soul of High Brix growing. Pay close attention!!!


Once a week give them a boost of “Brix.” 1 ounce per quart of water. IE, 1 ounce per spray bottle. Spray a light mist on the plants, trying to get the underside of the leaves as much as possible. You'll find that you have spray left over. Save it in a cool, dark place for next week, but check carefully to make sure nothing is "growing" in your spray.



Spray with “Brix” weekly, right up to harvest.


Remember! We're not trying to duplicate a rainstorm! We just want a fine mist on the leaves.


For Fresh cuttings: spray with “stress” daily. 1 oz. Stress per quart of water.


In between sprayings of “Brix” or anytime the plants look a bit stressed, give them a spray of “Stress.” Again, concentrate on the underside of the leaves.



I find that the plants get a spraying about 3 times a week. Twice with “Stress”, once with “Brix.”












Step Four: The Blooming/Fruiting Phase


After the second week of bloom, re-charge the soil with a top dressing of “Re-Charge.” Just evenly distribute it to all the plants and water/feed and spray as you did during vegetative growth. This will give the plants a slightly different balance of minerals that will support vigorous fruiting, resin production, etc.


Stand back and watch.


Enjoy!


Frequently Asked Questions:


Can I use another soil that my cousin's friend, who has been gardening for a long time says is the best?



No. This kit is formulated precisely for ProMix HP. Every mineral and element is in perfect balance. Don't mess with it!





What about defoliation?


Good question! I tried defoliating two plants and I couldn't get the brix over 10. The plants right next to the defoliated plants were at 17. Same light, same soil, same sprays. It seems Foliar Feeding requires foliage to work.....





What about using a product like Snowstorm?


No problem. It will not interfere with High Brix production, but the jury is still out on whether it is safe to consume.



What if I see a deficiency? What should I do?



Spray with “Stress” daily until the problem clears up. Stress contains a broad spectrum of trace minerals, L-amino acids, and natural plant growth regulators.






What about checking pH?


This is a good question! ProMix is pH balanced with buffers. The soil amendment is a powerful buffer as well. The pH of the amended soil is 6.4 and you'd have to water with bleach or pool acid to change that. There is a LOT of buffering rock powders in this mix. PH isn't an issue!


But what about those grow guides on the Internet that do nothing but stress the importance of pH and blame any and all problems on pH “lockout” or some other thing pH related?


Well, those folks get hydroponics mixed up with soil. We're not growing hydroponically with this kit. The hydro rules do not apply.


Bottom Line: There is no need to check or adjust pH. Adjusting pH will ruin your grow, because you'll have added too much P or too much K to the soil and brix will be lower. You just screwed everything
up!


But if you're worried, here's what you can do:


1.)Get a pair of needle-nosed pliers.


Every time you get the urge to check pH, either the runoff, or the feed water, take the pliers and yank out as many nose hairs (your nose hairs, not someone else's) as you can.



If that doesn't stop you from going down the pH rabbit hole, or you ignore that advice and you wake up one day and find you're actually adding phosphoric acid (pH down) or Potassium Hydroxide (pH up) in an attempt to adjust pH, lower brix and overall take your grow down a level, do the following:



1.)Get a solid rake.
2.)Measure the distance from the ground to your scrotum. RECORD THIS MEASUREMENT!!
3.)Measure from the business end of the rake to the handle the exact distance you got in number 2 above and cut off the rake handle at that place.
4.)put the rake on the floor, prongs up, handle facing away from you.
5.)Jump on the rake prongs as hard as you can.



If you don't have a rake, just ask a friend to kick you in the nuts.


If you don't have “nuts” just use an unaltered rake and make the jump.


Happy Gardening!!




This product is 100%, money back guaranteed to work. If not fully satisfied, please contact me for a full refund, minus shipping.
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

BlazinThat said:
Hey Doc

What kind of water are you using? I want to use R/O but then I got to thinking if I need cal/mag and if that would screw with the kit.
Click to expand...

I'm using RO, no CalMag. I added it for a while and I didn't notice a difference, so I stopped. If you decide to use CalMag, GH has an organic product that is 5 to 1 CAl/Mag. 7:1 is where we want to be, so this won't mess tings up too tad.
 
DocBud said:
I'm using RO, no CalMag. I added it for a while and I didn't notice a difference, so I stopped. If you decide to use CalMag, GH has an organic product that is 5 to 1 CAl/Mag. 7:1 is where we want to be, so this won't mess tings up too tad.
Click to expand...

Awesome thanks, now I just got to wait for my taxes to come back and I will be picking up a kit. Thanks for every thing you do.
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

question on sprayers Doc;

Any particular sprayer you use that gets to the underside of the plant?

I have seen on Amazon ones by SOLO with an extension wand that sprays undersides, one by MONDI and one by GRO1.

all about 2 ltrs with adjustable angle extensions.
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

Hash Hound said:
question on sprayers Doc;

Any particular sprayer you use that gets to the underside of the plant?

I have seen on Amazon ones by SOLO with an extension wand that sprays undersides, one by MONDI and one by GRO1.

all about 2 ltrs with adjustable angle extensions.
Click to expand...

Those all sound much better than what I use.

I use an SNS 17 bottle for "Stress" and a pump sprayer meant for reptiles (same as one for plants, different graphics on the bottle and half the cost of the hydroshop version) for "Brix."

I should probably get one of the ones you're talking about.

A good practice when foliar spraying is the spray with the right hand and left the leaves up so the underside is exposed with the left. It's fine to only spray the tops of the leaves too.....but absorption is much better on the bottom AND the few mites that manage to survive really hate it.
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

Hash Hound said:
question on sprayers Doc;

Any particular sprayer you use that gets to the underside of the plant?

I have seen on Amazon ones by SOLO with an extension wand that sprays undersides, one by MONDI and one by GRO1.

all about 2 ltrs with adjustable angle extensions.
Click to expand...

I've been using the SOLO with the extension for at least a year now, and it has worked very well for me. :thumb:

:ganjamon:
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

Vapedogg223 said:
I've been using the SOLO with the extension for at least a year now, and it has worked very well for me. :thumb:

:ganjamon:
Click to expand...

I've got to get one of those! You guys are way ahead of me with those sprayers.

BTW, I'm working on a new formulation for the kit. I'll know after this run, but it looks promising so far.

I'm also about to start on the amendment for the second run soil.
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

Hello Doc Bud and all

I just wanted to stop by to say thanks and let you know how much I appreciate what you are doing. Over the last week I have been reading and rereading over your last three grows. That is what it took to finally exorcise the NPK demon. The pictures sure helped. The last two days I find myself spontaneously chuckling with delight. Its wonderful. I love what you all have done. You got the microbes shaking it! This is my first and only post on a forum.
I have copied and saved many relevant posts from your grows and feel with that info. I can succeed at my 2nd indoor grow. I had been frustrated that since moving east across the country we didn't have anybody knowledgeable to help us here. I see now that is a good thing—it is best I kept looking on the forums.

Out of necessity, the starts are coming tomorrow after a 2 day round trip to get them so I am beginning with the promix BX plus minerals etc. The soil will have a little time to cook while I slowly plant them up. I will have promix hp available in the spring and will contact you then about the kit.
I will amend this soil most conservatively and top dress carefully.
My only question is whether or not to use pro-tekt for silica?

If I ran across your recipes w/o the understanding you provide, I would have thought they were seriously lacking in many essential ingredients. Now its funny..so very funny. Good Work!
 
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud

QuinT said:
Hello Doc Bud and all

I just wanted to stop by to say thanks and let you know how much I appreciate what you are doing. Over the last week I have been reading and rereading over your last three grows. That is what it took to finally exorcise the NPK demon. The pictures sure helped. The last two days I find myself spontaneously chuckling with delight. Its wonderful. I love what you all have done. You got the microbes shaking it! This is my first and only post on a forum.
I have copied and saved many relevant posts from your grows and feel with that info. I can succeed at my 2nd indoor grow. I had been frustrated that since moving east across the country we didn't have anybody knowledgeable to help us here. I see now that is a good thing—it is best I kept looking on the forums.

Out of necessity, the starts are coming tomorrow after a 2 day round trip to get them so I am beginning with the promix BX plus minerals etc. The soil will have a little time to cook while I slowly plant them up. I will have promix hp available in the spring and will contact you then about the kit.
I will amend this soil most conservatively and top dress carefully.
My only question is whether or not to use pro-tekt for silica?

If I ran across your recipes w/o the understanding you provide, I would have thought they were seriously lacking in many essential ingredients. Now its funny..so very funny. Good Work!
Click to expand...

Thank you very much! If you journal your grow I'd love to follow it. BTW, the kit will work for BX as well. I just like HP better for indoor growing.
 
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