skyhighfly
New Member
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
how to grow a low plant like that ????
yeah im an amateur
how to grow a low plant like that ????
yeah im an amateur
In The Lab
- Thread starter Doc Bud
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #22
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
Amateur's can do this too. If you can follow a recipe, you can grow high quality MJ.
Most people don't follow the recipe....
Amateur's can do this too. If you can follow a recipe, you can grow high quality MJ.
Most people don't follow the recipe....
skyhighfly
New Member
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
the recipe is....?
the recipe is....?
- Thread starter
- #24
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
The recipe I'm referring to here is my kit. PM me if you want one. Otherwise, you can look at this journal as a cooking show. I'm going to show you how to use the kit----IE follow the recipe.
the recipe is....?
The recipe I'm referring to here is my kit. PM me if you want one. Otherwise, you can look at this journal as a cooking show. I'm going to show you how to use the kit----IE follow the recipe.
Delocated420
New Member
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
Wow, i'm quite excited to see this journal and i'll be reading in envy and awe.
I've wondered constantly about your high brix journals but could never find the time to properly read them all.
Cant wait to absorb your vast knowledge on the subject
I'll be pm'ing you about your high brix kit
Wow, i'm quite excited to see this journal and i'll be reading in envy and awe.
I've wondered constantly about your high brix journals but could never find the time to properly read them all.
Cant wait to absorb your vast knowledge on the subject
I'll be pm'ing you about your high brix kit
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
Hey Docbud, I was just wondering what type of ac do you use?
I am changing grow locations and setting up in a 3wx6Lx7h space. I will most likely be using around 1000 watts of air-cooled hid with sufficient venting. Any suggestions on size and brands.
Hey Docbud, I was just wondering what type of ac do you use?
I am changing grow locations and setting up in a 3wx6Lx7h space. I will most likely be using around 1000 watts of air-cooled hid with sufficient venting. Any suggestions on size and brands.
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
Nice Doc
I'm happy to see I'm not to far off what you do 
Nice Doc
I'm happy to see I'm not to far off what you do - Thread starter
- #28
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
For a small space like that a window mount is more than adequate. I have 4 1000's in my flower room and 12,000 BTU window mount does the job just fine.
I've also got a minisplit in the new veg room. Overkill! But very nice.
Get the AC that looks like it might work, and then buy a bigger one.
For a small space like that a window mount is more than adequate. I have 4 1000's in my flower room and 12,000 BTU window mount does the job just fine.
I've also got a minisplit in the new veg room. Overkill! But very nice.
Get the AC that looks like it might work, and then buy a bigger one.
Hozona
Well-Known Member
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
- Thread starter
- #30
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
Transplanting
Vegged plants Should have roots to the point where no dirt falls out when you pop out the root ball. To accomplish this, please see a few posts up on Watering Technique for Vegetative Growth.
So, Here's the root ball.
Steps
1.)Fill final pot with soil
2.)Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root ball.
3.)Sprinkle "Root Zone" (in the kit) into the hole
4.)Score the roots. See pic below.
5.)Plant it, push soil in from sides, compact by hand.
6.)Water it in with 1 pint of transplant water. Soil can be pre-wetted so the transplant water isn't washed away with furher waterings.
The procedure is very similar with clones, just on a smaller scale.
Speaking of clones, Here's what high brix clones look like. Very green and healthy, rapid rooting and growth. These were taken 6-10 days prior.
One of the things I like to do for small clones is nip off the roots and let them continue in the dome till they're a bit larger. They veg much better that way.
When I take a fresh clone, I cut it back pretty far, leaving just the apical meristem, one fan leaf and stalk. By the time they root, they have fresh new growth, usually in about a week for faster strains, 12 days for slow ones. They don't seem to skip a beat as far as growth goes. I believe this is due to spraying them with "Stress" which has natural PGR's and trace minerals, along with active biology.
2 weeks later, the transplanted clones should look like this:
Transplanting
Vegged plants Should have roots to the point where no dirt falls out when you pop out the root ball. To accomplish this, please see a few posts up on Watering Technique for Vegetative Growth.
So, Here's the root ball.
Steps
1.)Fill final pot with soil
2.)Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root ball.
3.)Sprinkle "Root Zone" (in the kit) into the hole
4.)Score the roots. See pic below.
5.)Plant it, push soil in from sides, compact by hand.
6.)Water it in with 1 pint of transplant water. Soil can be pre-wetted so the transplant water isn't washed away with furher waterings.
The procedure is very similar with clones, just on a smaller scale.
Speaking of clones, Here's what high brix clones look like. Very green and healthy, rapid rooting and growth. These were taken 6-10 days prior.
One of the things I like to do for small clones is nip off the roots and let them continue in the dome till they're a bit larger. They veg much better that way.
When I take a fresh clone, I cut it back pretty far, leaving just the apical meristem, one fan leaf and stalk. By the time they root, they have fresh new growth, usually in about a week for faster strains, 12 days for slow ones. They don't seem to skip a beat as far as growth goes. I believe this is due to spraying them with "Stress" which has natural PGR's and trace minerals, along with active biology.
2 weeks later, the transplanted clones should look like this:
OG13
New Member
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
Nice pics Doc, got the soil cooking. Happy Holidays
Nice pics Doc, got the soil cooking. Happy Holidays
- Thread starter
- #32
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
Good man!
Just follow the instructions. You've got more than an ounce of "Transplant," enough to do the intial seedling/clone AND enough for the veg to bloom transplant. The first time you mix it up, us half an ounce in half a gallon of water. That's 4 pints right there, which can stretch enough to do 6 small pots. Next time, use the rest and you'll have enough to do 8 plants, or 6 larger pots with a bit more than a pint.
The important thing is the synergy between the "Root Zone" and the transplant. They are designed to work together to colonize roots ASAP.
Also, when you do your sprays, mix up half a batch (16oz). You'll probably get two sprayings from that while in veg, AND have enough for the clone dome.
Good man!
Just follow the instructions. You've got more than an ounce of "Transplant," enough to do the intial seedling/clone AND enough for the veg to bloom transplant. The first time you mix it up, us half an ounce in half a gallon of water. That's 4 pints right there, which can stretch enough to do 6 small pots. Next time, use the rest and you'll have enough to do 8 plants, or 6 larger pots with a bit more than a pint.
The important thing is the synergy between the "Root Zone" and the transplant. They are designed to work together to colonize roots ASAP.
Also, when you do your sprays, mix up half a batch (16oz). You'll probably get two sprayings from that while in veg, AND have enough for the clone dome.
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
great instructional journal Doc.
Question on starting direct into the 5 gal pots I have been using lately. I have either sowed direct into the 5 gals, or transplant few day old seedlings in to them. That's just the way it has to be some time if no separate veg room is available. The room serves dual purpose.
They seem to be healthy and all that. Started right under the Digital + 600w.
Any way, is their any real disadvantage to me using the larger pots from the get go?
And do I just mix the Root Zone in the top few inches of dirt if I do seed direct in the soil of a big pot?
great instructional journal Doc.
Question on starting direct into the 5 gal pots I have been using lately. I have either sowed direct into the 5 gals, or transplant few day old seedlings in to them. That's just the way it has to be some time if no separate veg room is available. The room serves dual purpose.
They seem to be healthy and all that. Started right under the Digital + 600w.
Any way, is their any real disadvantage to me using the larger pots from the get go?
And do I just mix the Root Zone in the top few inches of dirt if I do seed direct in the soil of a big pot?
- Thread starter
- #34
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
For a seed, you only need 1 tablespoon of rootzone in the divit where you plant the seed. If you were going to germinate in the final container, I'd hold back 1 tablespoon of Root Zone for each seedling, and mix the rest into the center of the container, just below where the seed will be planted.
Starting in large pots is a disadvantage. It need not be a large disadvantage, but it could be, depending on the medium and your watering technique. Large pots have larger perched water tables, which means a small plant need only sink a few roots into it and it will have enough water and nutrition for vegetative growth. But the roots will be "lazy" because they need not seek out moisture.....it's all right there and plentiful.
In a small container, the perched water table is the same depth as in the large pot, but the volume of water is far less, especially in tapered containers. The roots are encouraged to branch out everywhere in order to find moisture.
So, you're always better off starting in smaller containers if you can. If not, I'd consider installing a wick. I used them all the time in 3 gallon pots. They're very simple, just a piece of poly stuck 4 inches up the bottom of the pot and sticking a few inches below the bottom. It will drain the perched water table and greatly aid the plant's root system.
For a seed, you only need 1 tablespoon of rootzone in the divit where you plant the seed. If you were going to germinate in the final container, I'd hold back 1 tablespoon of Root Zone for each seedling, and mix the rest into the center of the container, just below where the seed will be planted.
Starting in large pots is a disadvantage. It need not be a large disadvantage, but it could be, depending on the medium and your watering technique. Large pots have larger perched water tables, which means a small plant need only sink a few roots into it and it will have enough water and nutrition for vegetative growth. But the roots will be "lazy" because they need not seek out moisture.....it's all right there and plentiful.
In a small container, the perched water table is the same depth as in the large pot, but the volume of water is far less, especially in tapered containers. The roots are encouraged to branch out everywhere in order to find moisture.
So, you're always better off starting in smaller containers if you can. If not, I'd consider installing a wick. I used them all the time in 3 gallon pots. They're very simple, just a piece of poly stuck 4 inches up the bottom of the pot and sticking a few inches below the bottom. It will drain the perched water table and greatly aid the plant's root system.
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
Sweet
a new DocBud journal for me to lurk around!
Looking forward to learning more about cannabis from you.
Sweet
a new DocBud journal for me to lurk around!Looking forward to learning more about cannabis from you.
NickNasty
New Member
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
Hey doc had a couple of questions for you. I have my soil cooking for my kit right now but in the mean time I was wondering if there were anything you would recommend for the rest of my garden to bring the brix up on it. For instance would the stress foliar spray be good for any plant that was showing stress and you knew you were not over fertilizing. Also would the Brix spray bring the brix up on flowering plants that were not in the kit? Are there any other products you would recommend that would be of help to people doing amended soils to bring their brix up and keep their plants healthy.
Hey doc had a couple of questions for you. I have my soil cooking for my kit right now but in the mean time I was wondering if there were anything you would recommend for the rest of my garden to bring the brix up on it. For instance would the stress foliar spray be good for any plant that was showing stress and you knew you were not over fertilizing. Also would the Brix spray bring the brix up on flowering plants that were not in the kit? Are there any other products you would recommend that would be of help to people doing amended soils to bring their brix up and keep their plants healthy.
- Thread starter
- #37
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
How to increase brix:
1.)mineralize the soil. top dress the 6-5-3 rock powders.
2.)increase soil biology with a good tea
3.)keep potassium levels down! IE don't feed anything with potassium over "1," IE 5-7-1 on NPK.
4.)keep cal/mag ratio at 7-10/1. This is best accomplished by getting calcium into the soil.
Foliar sprays work by feeding microbes at the roots, NOT by getting NPK to the leaves. If your soil is mineralized and the biota is happy and active, the foliar sprays MIGHT help, but make sure you're using the right ones.
In homemade, non-tested soil, the only sprays I'd use would be Amaze, PGR and Bloomit.
In purpose built, high brix soil, the sprays are more customized and I wouldn't waste them. They may not deliver any noticeable difference, depending on the soil.
But in the right soil, the sprays work like magic!!! I thought I was getting good results when I was doing 6-5-3 with regular potting soil. My first true high brix crop was an order of magnitude better! The sprays worked much better, the plants were healthier, resin was better, bud structure superb.....better in every way.
All this info can be found on my older journals. This journal is mainly for the kit.
Bottom line:
There isn't any debate over soil composition. We're not all searching for what works....we KNOW what works. The soil ratios must be just so.....no wiggle room.
The only debate is how to arrive at those ratios.
How to increase brix:
1.)mineralize the soil. top dress the 6-5-3 rock powders.
2.)increase soil biology with a good tea
3.)keep potassium levels down! IE don't feed anything with potassium over "1," IE 5-7-1 on NPK.
4.)keep cal/mag ratio at 7-10/1. This is best accomplished by getting calcium into the soil.
Foliar sprays work by feeding microbes at the roots, NOT by getting NPK to the leaves. If your soil is mineralized and the biota is happy and active, the foliar sprays MIGHT help, but make sure you're using the right ones.
In homemade, non-tested soil, the only sprays I'd use would be Amaze, PGR and Bloomit.
In purpose built, high brix soil, the sprays are more customized and I wouldn't waste them. They may not deliver any noticeable difference, depending on the soil.
But in the right soil, the sprays work like magic!!! I thought I was getting good results when I was doing 6-5-3 with regular potting soil. My first true high brix crop was an order of magnitude better! The sprays worked much better, the plants were healthier, resin was better, bud structure superb.....better in every way.
All this info can be found on my older journals. This journal is mainly for the kit.
Bottom line:
There isn't any debate over soil composition. We're not all searching for what works....we KNOW what works. The soil ratios must be just so.....no wiggle room.
The only debate is how to arrive at those ratios.
CoryDavid88
New Member
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
hey doc i believe ive finally came up with the money for your kit. how exactly do i pm u. im sorry even though im young computer things were never my strong suit. and also i have started doing scroggs and love the yield i get. will growing with high brix allow me to keep scrogging? sorry if its a lame question
hey doc i believe ive finally came up with the money for your kit. how exactly do i pm u. im sorry even though im young computer things were never my strong suit. and also i have started doing scroggs and love the yield i get. will growing with high brix allow me to keep scrogging? sorry if its a lame question
- Thread starter
- #39
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
Not a lame question bro!
You can SCROG high brix'n all day long. No problem.
You can PM me by clicking on my profile or using the PM icon in the lower right of a forum post.
Not a lame question bro!
You can SCROG high brix'n all day long. No problem.
You can PM me by clicking on my profile or using the PM icon in the lower right of a forum post.
Mrgivemethat
New Member
Re: "In the Lab" with Doc Bud
Very informative doc question high brix with air or smart pots? Also what is you veg length and how long does your teas take to brew? Thanks doc
Very informative doc question high brix with air or smart pots? Also what is you veg length and how long does your teas take to brew? Thanks doc