60% -80% ? What else is in it.
I Need Help: Emergency
- Thread starter Koolbudz
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- #22
So I guess that would be considered coco with amendments? I'm not sure I know anyone running that right now. Hopefully someone will see that extra bit of information and can come up with something more helpful to you.
My guess is you'd pH somewhere in the middle. But like I said, that's a guess.
My guess is you'd pH somewhere in the middle. But like I said, that's a guess.
Stunned
Well-Known Member
your PH is too high
S/B 5.6 to 6.0
S/B 5.6 to 6.0
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
im in canna terra pro plus which is almost the same as that, i ph my solution to 6-
it says on the bag its a soilless medium, ph adjusted to 5.8-6.2
it says on the bag its a soilless medium, ph adjusted to 5.8-6.2
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- #26
OldSchoolToker
Well-Known Member
Dolomite lime can be used, a light dusting scratched into the surface of your growing medium then watered in, will naturally balance the PH of coco and soil. It is added to the coco before it is sold in stores, but washes out from watering.
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
i have 2 plants in soil and 1 plant in the canna terra pro plus and the plant in the pro plus is growing almost twice as fast so its not that soilless medium is bad, you just are having a problem from mixin a bunch of stuff that shouldnt have been mixed probably
Mj76
Well-Known Member
In your organic grow you don't need to ph, you absolutely don't flush. The only "flushable" nute is N as it leeches from soil easily. The brown is nute burn. The yellowing of your lower leaves is mag deficiency. The yellowing at the new growth is a calcium deficiency. With LED's and coco you must supplement cal mag. You need to be focusing on organic techniques and problem solving.
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
yeah i said it was calmag in the first couple posts lol
Mj76
Well-Known Member
Right. I knew that, I was just testing you! Lol and you obviously passed. 
But seriously, you need to think like an organic grower and put down the ph pen. It's irrelevant and it'll twist your mind into a pretzel, especially if you check the outgoing ph. With organics, you're not relying on chemistry for nutrient uptake. The microbes eat the mineral or guano or whatever and feed it to the plant in a form the plant can use. There is one bit of fine print though, size matters! I do ph if the pot size is 3gal or less.
But seriously, you need to think like an organic grower and put down the ph pen. It's irrelevant and it'll twist your mind into a pretzel, especially if you check the outgoing ph. With organics, you're not relying on chemistry for nutrient uptake. The microbes eat the mineral or guano or whatever and feed it to the plant in a form the plant can use. There is one bit of fine print though, size matters! I do ph if the pot size is 3gal or less.
Hdinkleman
Well-Known Member
Right. I knew that, I was just testing you! Lol and you obviously passed.
im not the OP but yes what you are saying is exactly right, i remeber freaking the hell out when my soil runoff TDS was 2900 lol, persoanlly i ph my nutes going into soil to 6.5ish, but the nice thing about using the bio canna line is that if you follow their feeding instuctions with my tap water it comes out to 6.1 on its own. i still check it though.... lol
The original picture shows too much N and too much light, back your nutes down and raise your lights. Vipar lights are 5w leds and will burn plants easy unless you use a mover. In veg run them at 36"- 40" and see how your plants do. Picture is typical light burn, light striped leaves with dark veins and burned edges.....Took me two grows to find the sweet spot for vipars 600. I run mine at 100 veg 60 bloom at 28" on a mover and my plants love it, in flower 100/100 at 20 - 24". Read your plants and adjust height accordingly.
Mj76
Well-Known Member
I've had my two little Vipar 300's for almost four yrs now. They were my first led's and still going kinda strong. One is definitely brighter than the other. I'v replaced them as my main veg light but I will occasionally bust em out for supplementary reasons.
I use the same stuff. It's a great medium. 70% soil, 25% sea compost and 5% perlite. pH at 6.3-6.5. Normally the plant does not require any extra Ca or Mg during veg, but at flip you need to start giving it to her.
Plant below is in the same stuff you mentioned, so imho the soil is not the issue at hand.
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- #36
Ok for all who have posted....
Here is how my journey started.....I was trying to cure this leaf issue and also just 3/4-1" of leaf tip wilting/curving down. Everything I read with associated pictures said either N toxicity or fan burn so to start I changed how fans blow and bought an oscilating fan, no luck..... So with everything I had read over and over due to no discoloration in leaves, real nice green, all I saw was flush-flush-flush, with coco and soil so I flushed and then all hell broke loose. Which the nute burn came after the flush, thats why I am so confused, I do have legit Cal/Mag Deficiency but am curing that.
As for light height issues my lights were over 24" from plants but have grown towards it since I have had to delay flower to cure these issues. The plants are tied down and about 20" from light.
Here is how my journey started.....I was trying to cure this leaf issue and also just 3/4-1" of leaf tip wilting/curving down. Everything I read with associated pictures said either N toxicity or fan burn so to start I changed how fans blow and bought an oscilating fan, no luck..... So with everything I had read over and over due to no discoloration in leaves, real nice green, all I saw was flush-flush-flush, with coco and soil so I flushed and then all hell broke loose. Which the nute burn came after the flush, thats why I am so confused, I do have legit Cal/Mag Deficiency but am curing that.
As for light height issues my lights were over 24" from plants but have grown towards it since I have had to delay flower to cure these issues. The plants are tied down and about 20" from light.
i find growing with coco and soil can cause a few problems , its kind of half organic half hdyro , hard to get the ph as some roots would be enjoying a ph of 6.5 to 7 while the hydro side is enjoying 5.6 - 6.2 its a thing thats caused me problems before so i just do one or the other soil or coco 98% less probs , then every one is different
Mj76
Well-Known Member
Oh I see now. I've only seen that described as wind burn. The funky curling doesn't go away even when you remedy the situation.
To quote a famous youtube grower.....most problems are created by either too much or not enough light and water.
I see light burn from leds on your leaves which happened 2-3 weeks ago....that plus too much N. Leaves should be mint green not dark green and shinny. If your ph is correct and nutes are correct then its lights or water issue. Your first picture shows classic light stripes on yours leaves from being too close. The problems you see started a couple weeks ago. Raise those vipars up and problem will solve itself.
I see light burn from leds on your leaves which happened 2-3 weeks ago....that plus too much N. Leaves should be mint green not dark green and shinny. If your ph is correct and nutes are correct then its lights or water issue. Your first picture shows classic light stripes on yours leaves from being too close. The problems you see started a couple weeks ago. Raise those vipars up and problem will solve itself.
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- #40
Cant raise lights but maybe 4" and had to wait to switch to 12/12, I figured to heck with it and just turned them to 12/12 last night, will have to adjust lights here in day or so and see if that helps....
