How To Make Concentrated Cannabis Oil

Don't throw it away. Just don't use it again.
Motoco & I posted about the differences in the two a few years ago before the threads became specific. I hadn't tried, but you can use the search I'm told.
 
I have no more bud nor any money left, but I can't give the oil to my mum if you're saying it's poisonous.

Best to throw the oil away and start again when I get some more money. Last thing I need is to kill my mum.

Edit: I just don't understand why every single guide on how to do this has said iso alcohol is perfectly fine.

Edit 2: This may be a dumb question but I'm not a drinker, I thought 100% proof was the highest a drink could be, meaning it is 100% pure alcohol? I think vodka would be the safest thing to use next time. What would be the minimum percent proof to use?
 
faceless, your oil will NOT be poison! No reason at all to throw it away.

The IPA (isopropyl alcohol) in your picture is PERFECTLY SAFE to use in extracting oil. It does not contain any residue. This is NOT standard rubbing alcohol which is usually around 70-85% and possibly denatured.

What you will want to do is make sure you evaporate all the IPA. Any remaining small trace amounts of IPA will not be harmful.

IPA can be ingested and will cause intoxication much like ethyl alcohol (vodka). It does not break down into poisonous substances like methyl alcohol (wood alcohol) does. The true danger with IPA lies in dosage. Since IPA is much more "potent" than ethyl alcohol it takes very much less IPA to cause alcohol poisoning and makes dosing difficult. This is a reason (besides bad taste) IPA is not used as a recreational beverage.
 
Phew! thank god for that. I didn't waste my money :D

From now on though I will use something else, if I can find an appropriate vodka I'll use that.

Is pure naptha(petroleum) a viable alternative?

Also, I need some advice on handling his stuff, I can't scrape it off the bottom of my slow cooker/crock pot whatever it's called. I did get a lot of it off, but there's more stuck there.

Also the part where you leave the oil on a candle warmer until it stops bubbling, is that really necessary?
 
Define pure :) Naphtha is a general term and is basically a of mixture of many different hydrocarbon compounds.
I use pentane or hexane (reagent grade) personally, these work very well but need extra steps in order to get rid of trace amounts. Also they are very much more expensive than ethanol or IPA.

lol should probably be listed in the Guinness book of world records as the stickiest stuff known to man :)
I usually use a small measured (weight) amount of oil like almond oil or coconut oil to dissolve the C-oil in. That way I can remove it effectively and by weighing what I get in the end, guestimate the C-oil/concentration. Which helps in initial dosing tests.

In regard to the "stop bubbling" part, depends on what you want to use it for. If you skip this part you will have a negligible "high" and/or analgesic effect.
 
OMeWanCannabi said:
Define pure :) Naphtha is a general term and is basically a of mixture of many different hydrocarbon compounds.
I use pentane or hexane (reagent grade) personally, these work very well but need extra steps in order to get rid of trace amounts. Also they are very much more expensive than ethanol or IPA.

lol should probably be listed in the Guinness book of world records as the stickiest stuff known to man :)
I usually use a small measured (weight) amount of oil like almond oil or coconut oil to dissolve the C-oil in. That way I can remove it effectively and by weighing what I get in the end, guestimate the C-oil/concentration. Which helps in initial dosing tests.

In regard to the "stop bubbling" part, depends on what you want to use it for. If you skip this part you will have a negligible "high" and/or analgesic effect.
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Well, it's for my mum, I'm trying to cure her breast cancer.

About the pure naptha, maybe I'm using the wrong word, it's pure petroleum. It evaps and leaves no residue and I have made DMT with it in the past. It's called Barretine White Spirit (Hydrosulphurized heavy). It's cheap and readily available.
 
faceless42001 said:
Well, it's for my mum, I'm trying to cure her breast cancer.

About the pure naptha, maybe I'm using the wrong word, it's pure petroleum. It evaps and leaves no residue and I have made DMT with it in the past. It's called Barretine White Spirit (Hydrosulphurized heavy). It's cheap and readily available.
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It does leave a residue, everything does :;):

Right, I have just read through the MSDS and an assay for "Barretine White Spirit" this is a basically a consumer type paint solvent. It contains a fair amount of trace substances, a few of which are known carcinogens. The product is fine for its intended use as a paint solvent.

It would certainly "work" for extraction. I would however never use it for anything that I later plan to ingest.

The thing with using solvents to extract substances (like THCA from cannabis) is: there will always be trace amounts of the solvent used and stuff present in this solvent, remaining in the extract even if you can't see or smell it. This is one reason why I use analytical grade (or as minimum, reagent grade) solvents (hydrocarbon based) when extracting something I will later ingest.
I also do repeated alcohol "washes" of the extracted c-oil to ensure as complete an evaporation of the hydrocarbon solvent as possible. Once the oil is "dry", remaining solvent will be locked in and can't evaporate or will do so at a very low rate (think months). Repeatedly adding a little alcohol to re-dissolve the "dry" c-oil and evaporating this will assist in evaporating the traces of remaining hydrocarbon solvent.
 
I see thanks for the advice.

Just one more quick question about the final part of the process (the stop bubbling part). Is it possible to overdo this? ie. leave it too long after the bubbles have stopped and end up ruining or lowering the quality of the oil?

I'm basically asking if I can just leave it to do overnight then collect the oil in the morning, or do I need to attend it every second and get it as soon as it has stopped bubbling?
 
faceless42001 said:
I see thanks for the advice.

Just one more quick question about the final part of the process (the stop bubbling part). Is it possible to overdo this? ie. leave it too long after the bubbles have stopped and end up ruining or lowering the quality of the oil?

I'm basically asking if I can just leave it to do overnight then collect the oil in the morning, or do I need to attend it every second and get it as soon as it has stopped bubbling?
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Yes you can most definitely overdo this. There is a nice THC content, temp vs. time chart in this thread: THC/CBD Decarboxylation for extractions that should help you with this :)

And no it is not "critical" that you remove from heat source milliseconds after seeing the final bubble :)
 
JonZ said:
Great article. Can the oils made in this way be used in a vape pen? Is it smokable? Thanks, jonZ
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I would not recommend it. Most vaping liquids are food grade glycerol tinctures, NOT oils.
Most likely you would end up gunging up your vape pen and getting unwanted stuff into your lungs.
 
JonZ said:
Great article. Can the oils made in this way be used in a vape pen? Is it smokable? Thanks, jonZ
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OMeWanCannabi said:
I would not recommend it. Most vaping liquids are food grade glycerol tinctures, NOT oils.
Most likely you would end up gunging up your vape pen and getting unwanted stuff into your lungs.
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If you wanted to smoke RSO, I would try a dab on an oil rig, rather than smoking a vape pen.
(Too harsh for my lungs to experiment - not medically recommended.)

My experience with making a Vegetable Glycerin tincture for a vape pen is
A) You don't get high (THC needs an oil as a carrier?)

B) You need to fishbowl a cloud of vape for an hour - It takes about 2 ML to get a good body buzz from the CBDs
(That's a lot, those little vape liquid bottles are 15ML) You would need a 30W sub-ohm setup, not a 2-5 volt vape pen
 
Thank you all for helping to educate me. So, the oil process I read was for using as an additive active ingredient for edibles. I hope I got that right. The oil in vape pens is a completely different animal from oil made with grain alcohol. Hope this is correct. Thanks again for everyone's help. Jon Z
 
altainta said:
Hello sir can you guide on exactly how you make the 93% ethanol ?
I am totally novice in this. And have no prior knowledge. Please share your method
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Sorry for the delay in reply, been away and also looking after my GF who isn't very well at the moment.

You'll have to research elsewhere all of the intricacies of distilling alcohol, as it's far too detailed to write here. But this is the basic method:

1. Make a basic sugar wash using sugar, yeast and tomato paste (plus a few other ingredients): Birdwatcher (TPW - Tomato Paste Wash) Sugar Wash Recipe Calculator

2. Ferment it for approx 7-10 days and then let it sit for at least a week

3. Transfer the liquid (without any settled out solids) into your boiler and distill it through whatever type of still you own

4. Catch the 93% alcohol - I get about 3.5L of 93% alcohol distilled out of a 27L wash

There's lots of distilling forums around so that'll be your best place to start.
 
I seriously don't have time to read all the stuff here so i need a attention of someone who made and eat the oil

One of my relative is in the last stage of cancer. Doctor sent him home. We want to try the cannabis oil. They agreed for it. But they are poor.
(remember i got to know at this stage as they are in other city and we meet very less)

I have this items (it took me time to collect)

-Material 5 ounce... It is black market brought also it is hermies (only this item is available).. with seeds
-42% Alcohol by volume (drinking liquior) safe govt operated
- I CAN ALSO MANAGE IPA if needed. But how much will i need for 5 ounces ?
-steel utensils
-induction cooktop

So i want to ask you guys some question
1) Should i Decarb the material ? if yes how (with double boiler i have chicken oven safe bags).
2) How much temp should i maintain (to evaporate the solvent) ?
3) I CAN ALSO MANAGE IPA if needed. But how much will i need for 5 ounces ?
4) Can i decarb after making the oil ? (in oven this time because i can transfer it to other palce where oven is available.)
5) Should the material be grinded ?
6) VERY IMPORTANT - How long shall i wash ? how much minute ? shall i crush them in the process or shall i grind them before ?
7) Shall i freeze the material and the alcohol before head ?
8) Shall i DISTILL the 42% and make it more proof (70-90%) and use it ?

Please advice it is very urgent !!!
 
Hi altainta, you are a saint to help your friend save his life...

I've used the oil to get rid of my prostate cancer. From planting the seed or clone, through harvest and cure, and oil making, I've had the luck (like you) of having mentors here on this site to show me how to save my own life.

I've never experienced a greater sense of accomplishment, self pride, and humility.

Sorry, I do get wordy.

ALL of your questions, and many more, are answered in the two links below. I'll answer some here:

1. Yes. Sorry, you must read the first link below for details. No bags.
2. Alcohol will boil off at around 70 deg F and will be hard to raise above that because the evaporation process is a cooling process.
3. & 8. The closer to pure grain alcohol (100% or 200 proof) the better. The water in 45 Proof or % will pull out more chlorophyl and waxes but also most the cannabinoids. You'll have less pure oil, but more bulk and still effective as a medication. You'll have to use more, is all.
4. Yes, the temp must be between 240 and 250 deg F until all surface movement ceases. Watch that the alcohol has mostly boiled off before hand or you'll blow the place up.
5. No, you'd leave too many cannabinoids on the inside of the grinder.
6. & 7. Freeze both solvent and bud 24 hours before starting. Combine and crush the buds during a 4 minute wash.

This is not meant to replace your reading the two links below in my signature!

Read the first few pages of these links before starting the process!

I know you are in a hurry, but this is a marathon, not a sprint.

There's too much time and money involved to make a mistake.

Good luck and read, read, read, read, read...

:Namaste:
 
94xjjohn said:
Hi altainta, you are a saint to help your friend save his life...

I've used the oil to get rid of my prostate cancer. From planting the seed or clone, through harvest and cure, and oil making, I've had the luck (like you) of having mentors here on this site to show me how to save my own life.

I've never experienced a greater sense of accomplishment, self pride, and humility.

Sorry, I do get wordy.

ALL of your questions, and many more, are answered in the two links below. I'll answer some here:

1. Yes. Sorry, you must read the first link below for details. No bags.
2. Alcohol will boil off at around 70 deg F and will be hard to raise above that because the evaporation process is a cooling process.
3. & 8. The closer to pure grain alcohol (100% or 200 proof) the better. The water in 45 Proof or % will pull out more chlorophyl and waxes but also most the cannabinoids. You'll have less pure oil, but more bulk and still effective as a medication. You'll have to use more, is all.
4. Yes, the temp must be between 240 and 250 deg F until all surface movement ceases. Watch that the alcohol has mostly boiled off before hand or you'll blow the place up.
5. No, you'd leave too many cannabinoids on the inside of the grinder.
6. & 7. Freeze both solvent and bud 24 hours before starting. Combine and crush the buds during a 4 minute wash.

This is not meant to replace your reading the two links below in my signature!

Read the first few pages of these links before starting the process!

I know you are in a hurry, but this is a marathon, not a sprint.

There's too much time and money involved to make a mistake.

Good luck and read, read, read, read, read...

:Namaste:
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Awesome :Namaste:

Thx but i think karma will always do favour to those who does favour to others when they need it...
I too get wordyy !!! lol

The 1st answer is no bagging.. i watched the 2 links (only the first one to be exact don't want to see the tacking for now..)...

So i guess the oil is heated after ward... that is okay with me than... I will post more related question from it. Currently night time here...
And thank you thank you very much for reply i really appreciate..

PS : kindly answer on using IPA (iso) alcohol in clear words please !!!
 
Don't use iso (ipa) alcohol.
 
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