How Much Will I Yield?

1 gram per watt is always an achievable goal for any grower and most would say the standard by most experienced growers. Most growers only achieve under .6 grams.

That is why ...for now anyways I'm keeping my crop fairly small with 400 watts both veg/flower...
I am thinking that concentrated light on a few plants is better then too many and if a 400 watt bulb was dedicated for two plants ...I would expect a greater absorbtion in light output...
the plants really don't need to compete or fight for light (even though they still try)
They have dedicated absorbtion for maximum potential energy...just my stoned thoughts.
:nicethread:
 
I am thinking that concentrated light on a few plants is better then too many and if a 400 watt bulb was dedicated for two plants ...I would expect a greater absorbtion in light output...
the plants really don't need to compete or fight for light (even though they still try)
They have dedicated absorbtion for maximum potential energy...just my stoned thoughts.
:nicethread:

It is not the number of plants so much as their canopy. Part of getting good harvest numbers is in filling your canopy (without overcrowding). If your plants are in flower towards the end and you look up at the light from floor-level and can see plenty of light, what you are seeing is the wasted light that was not absorbed by the plants. You should find yourself thinking, "My, it's pretty dark down here."

One reason that people use various methods to "train" their plants. Another being that lights don't penetrate a thick canopy very well; a tall plant forces you to raise the light - which is taking it away from shorter plants (or even from buds lower down on the same plant).
 
Prep your soil so it's well drained and has the consistency of a seed bed. Give the plants plenty of light,adequate water and you'll get decent yields from the word go using just a mix of low acid,no nute containing potting soil and composted steer manure. Screen the manure to remove sticks and small rocks. You want soil that will offer the least resistance to the growing roots. Outdoors,you need to compromise on the lightness of the mix due to hard winds that can knock the plants over,but indoors it's no problem,give 'em what they want.

Keep it simple your first couple of grows,then start tweaking little things.

Oh yeah,buy a decent pH testing kit/meter to check both your soil and your local water pH. IMO,it's the best growing investment you can make.
 
Im wondering if I was washedup on a deserted island and I had 6 seeds 2 which were males and 4 were females I kept one male who smelled skunky and transplanted it on the other side of the island,and the other i pulled up. The 4 females grew and budded out very nicely and i took some pollen and dusted the branch of the most profolic female for another season,if i was still on island...So I could plant again,just in case.....I had no bat guano,or superbloom,or any type of fert...still I had a yield of 12 ounces of per plant...Keep it simple...
 
Update!
...
Holy shit is right!
So, do we get to see what you did to get 3.72 lbs from four plants under 1000watts in only 16 sq feet? (and cooled with 50cfm fan thats off for 15 mins at a time...)
:MoreNutes:
 
Professional gardeners that are dialed in can tell you exactly what they will harvest from their grow. They budget for it. That is why a lot of them are against full legalization in Cali.
 
Holy shit is right!
So, do we get to see what you did to get 3.72 lbs from four plants under 1000watts in only 16 sq feet? (and cooled with 50cfm fan thats off for 15 mins at a time...)
:MoreNutes:

The two 1000watt hps bulbs (added a second after a little math) are actually in a tube with its own 240cfm fan that cools them with out moving air from the space. The 50 cfm fan was upgraded when I spliced the plants and had too much veg. I was actually pulling 100 cfm every 15 min for 15 min to get a complete air change. The 12 volt fans I have on the fermentation bucket would then distribute the built up gases. I have been studying my brother for years and took his know how and added what I knew from studying botany in college. Basically you can turn one large plant into 2 by splicing a couple young plants to it. I loose about 1 in 3 but i have been working on this as I go. I feel the biggest factors are RIDICULOUS light reinforced by all mirror walls and up angled mirrors at the base of my buckets, nuts change every 4 days and a secret. I learned more on a commercial avocado farm in CA then I did in every other green house and garage I toured. My space is heated and air conditioned via it's own zone from the home unit (a bit over kill but full proof). All in all I have two grand in this little room and probably another three in equipment and copious amounts of time. I really want to finish my attic room so I can stop bugging out when a friend or guest wants to check out the garage.
 
Professional gardeners that are dialed in can tell you exactly what they will harvest from their grow. They budget for it. That is why a lot of them are against full legalization in Cali.

yeah, not chill at all :(
 
I'm confused why are they against full legalization?

Full legalization would both lower the price of cannabis and ensure that MANY more people would grow - and openly so, which would likely improve everyone's quality/yield. Therefore it would hurt the profits of those who grow to sell.

<SHRUGS> Let 'em go work for a living, lol.

Legalize!
 
I opposed legalization because it was based solely upon government regulating, taxing, and distributing cannabis. I don't think the cultivation, possession, or use of cannabis should be a crime. The only legislation needed is decriminalization, not that which enables government to steal more money from the citizenry. I don't favor one cartel over another and I regard current government as organized crime. If they want murderous Mexican cartels out of California, enforce our immigration laws and deport illegal aliens.
 
How Much Will I Yeild?
"I have XXX watts...how much will I yield?" or "How can I get bigger yields?"

A common inquiry. From ambitious new gardeners and for good reason too. But, this is really a loaded question that doesn't have a definite answer. It seems one of the first assumptions by new gardeners is that loads of light automatically equals loads of buds. Unfortunately, it's just not that simple. Yield is equally contingent on a number of factors; light, temperature, humidity, water, nutrients, CO2/ventilation, genetics, etc. Think of it as an engine, with each factor of cultivation representing a single piston, sure the engine will run if some of the cylinders are misfiring or not firing at all, but to yield the most power from that engine, all cylinders must be firing in sync and at maximum capacity.

Temperature. Most cannabis plants will slow or cease growth when temp's get above 85F, or below 65f. Optimal lights-on temp for most strains is about 72-78F, with 5-10 degrees cooler during the dark period being a good rule of thumb.

Humidity. Cannabis does best around 45%-55% RH (relative humidity).
During veg and late flower, however letting it drop lower during the final two weeks of flower is advised, as it will help prevent mould problems.

Water/moisture. Cannabis generally doesn't like "wet feet", or a soggy environment, so it's very important to have a fast draining soil/soil-less mix (or well aerated solution in a hydro garden). Wet or damp conditions can also lead to mould problems during flowering.

Nutrients. Cannabis will require a variety of nutrients at varying NPK ratios during its existence. NPK stand for; nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K)-the three major nutrients used by plants. Simply put, your plants will need a fertilizer with more N than P and K during vegetative growth and fertilizer with more P than N and K during flowering. Using any well-known quality fertilizer applied per instruction @ ½ strength is a good place to start. Organic, chemical, or somewhere in-between is another choice to be made and is a totally personal one. There is a plethora of fertilizers on the market, but the best fertilizer is the one that's used properly.

CO2/ventilation. Plants require CO2. There is sufficient CO2 in our atmosphere to support massive bud growth, but when growing inside you must either have adequate ventilation (the volume of the room exhausted at least once/5 minutes) to ensure that there is a constant supply of fresh, CO2 enriched air or one must have supplemental CO2, which requires higher temp's and more nutrients to be utilized effectively.

Light. Typically, the more the merrier, but more light will create stronger water, nutrient, and CO2 demands on the plants. You must also have the proper spectrum of lighting as well as a means of efficiently reflecting as much of the light as possible into the garden\'s canopy. The norm is to use more bluish light (Metal Halide, cool-white fluorescents) for vegetative growth and more reddish (High Pressure sodium, warm fluoro's) light for flowering. Though it's possible to grow great buds under fluorescent lighting and a few will even argue their superiority to HID's, most indoor growers use High Intensity Discharge lights such as MH and HPS, and many use fluoro's for vegetative growth and HPS for flowering. It's very important to have the light as physically close to the canopy as possible without burning the foliage and still allowing for even coverage.Many new growers believe that "Droppin the light" closer to the plant will be beneficial. Besides heat stress, the bulb puts out radiant energy that causes leaf burn (Note it is possible to complete a grow using just HPS or MH)

Genetics. Its an easily overlooked factor. Some strains simply have the potential to yield more than others. Having a heavy-yielding strain doesn't automatically equal big yields, either. It only means that the potential for heavy yields is there. The grower must provide the optimum environment for that particular strain in order for it to be able to reach it's yield potential, and each strain has slightly unique requirements. Also, within a strain there are usually several phenotypes, each of which will exhibit unique characteristics which is to say that some pheno\'s of a particular strain will weigh more than others.

Plant/root/container size. Obviously, the longer a plant is veg'd, the bigger it will get and the more it will yield. Almost always overlooked because they're unseen are the roots. Root mass is directly related to bud production. Simply put, the more roots you have the more bud you will (potentially) have. Be sure to always allow plenty of space for the roots to grow and spread out, even more-so in soil A general rule of thumb is 1 gallon of soil for every foot of plant height.

System.
Scrog/Sog/Vertical gardens
These systems have a higher g/w/time yield than comparable large plant system over the same time period.

Grower's skill. Growers can add yield by: using additives (like B1, kelp, enzymes), foliar feeding, and topping/FIM/

In addition. Tricks like keeping nutrients and the air temps warm during night cycle can help final yield. Although it's a topic of hot debate, it's generally thought that any system that supplies the roots with maximum oxygen (aeroponics) would outperform a system that restricts 02 input such as (soil).
So, as you can see there's much more to yield than throwing some plants under tons of light with tons of nutes. Before one becomes too concerned with yield, one must first learn how to grow plants well, learn how to "listen" to the plants and give them just what they need. It's best to start with simpler methods, in fact, I think the simpler method is always the better one. Learn how to grow strong, healthy, fast-growing plants and the yields will come.

Author: Sun is Shining


I agree with Smokey, "A loaded question.", indeed. It all depends how much you get involved with the plant. If you look after it's needs and can increase yield than go for it. But just asking the question isn't going to help you. Its how you learn to grow your plant. Look with -in yourself and find the harmony between you and the plant.

Good Luck.
 
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