How I grow in coco Youtube videos and pics

I think i found what causes the problem to the plants, even with correct PH and feeding schedule. Today, when i was about to water my plants i found a brownish fly sitting on the soil of one of the damaged plants. I killed it, and tried to investigate the coco and when i dug deeper on the sides, i found white little moving larva there. Gotta be fucking fungus gnats -_- Nevermind the anti-parasites bacteria in the Canna Coco Plus...overpriced shit. How should i proceed? With what should i treat my coco to get rid of this fucking assholes?
 
I have alot of experience with fungus gnats, you normally get them when the coco is too wet. allow the coco to dry out then add bacilus bacteria and an enzym like cannazym or sensizym to break down the dead larvae and clean the dead roots. i would also add a root stimulator and/or great white mycorrhizae to bring the roots back to health. then use sticky traps on top of the pots, the adults are attracted to the yellow strips. They wont even get a chance to lay eggs. after a week or so the gnats will be toast or in such small numbers that it wont have much of an effect. Fungus gnats cause a lot of damage if left untreated.

Canna coco plus is not great, I prefer plagron or bcuzz as they are buffered well and very clean, fine coco.
 
Cultivator said:
I have alot of experience with fungus gnats, you normally get them when the coco is too wet. allow the coco to dry out then add bacilus bacteria and an enzym like cannazym or sensizym to break down the dead larvae and clean the dead roots. i would also add a root stimulator and/or great white mycorrhizae to bring the roots back to health. then use sticky traps on top of the pots, the adults are attracted to the yellow strips. They wont even get a chance to lay eggs. after a week or so the gnats will be toast or in such small numbers that it wont have much of an effect. Fungus gnats cause a lot of damage if left untreated.

Canna coco plus is not great, I prefer plagron or bcuzz as they are buffered well and very clean, fine coco.
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Thank you so much for the info! I got my hands on Bacillus Thuringiensis from Biothur, will arrive tommorow. Haven't watered them today, i started watering them recently everyday, like LEDRF suggested, but probably applied too much water. I have Cannazym and Rhizotonic from Canna, will it do the job for the roots to recover? For how much time should i apply Bacillus Thuringiensis to my feeding solution?

The are 2 heavily damaged plants (will post pictures later) with withering curled up yellow leaves, she is kinda growing but really meh and the second one has dried out curled tips on the leaves, yellow too, stopped growing alltogether. Are they beyond saving or still have a chance? The other plants seem to be doing fine though some white-yellowish spots on the tip of leaves started appearing, really small, but still noticeable, but i think they are infected too. I also have 5 seedlings in solo cups, 1 week old,and they were near the plants that are infected. Should i add Bacillus Thuringiensis and Cannazym, Rhizo for them too, as a preventive measure?

Agree with you about Canna Coco, overpriced crap.
 
What I do is put half inch to one inch of play sand (from Home Depot) on top of all my pots. Within two weeks all the gnats are dead. You will not see babies anymore.

The larva cannot make their way out of the sand, so they die. The adults cannot make their way into the sand to lay babies, and if they do, they die because they cannot get through the sand.

It has always worked for me over the years. It just worked for my in my flower room.

You can also feed with peroxide in your water a couple times if you want to try to kill the larva faster.
 
LEDRF said:
What I do is put half inch to one inch of play sand (from Home Depot) on top of all my pots. Within two weeks all the gnats are dead. You will not see babies anymore.

The larva cannot make their way out of the sand, so they die. The adults cannot make their way into the sand to lay babies, and if they do, they die because they cannot get through the sand.

It has always worked for me over the years. It just worked for my in my flower room.

You can also feed with peroxide in your water a couple times if you want to try to kill the larva faster.
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I'll do that with sand too, should i continue to water the plants daily?
 
Making and update on my grow, thanks to your advice and techniques my grow is going really well. The feeding schedule works great and there are no signs of fungus gnats...in fact it went so well, one of the plants got out of control growth and now at the end of vegetative stage, it's much bigger and taller than the others. What techniques do you use to subdue an out of control growth plant? Reduce the stretching up and on the sides?

Also i since there much more leaves in the tent now, my humidity is a bit out of control. It's sitting at 60-61 percent, though there are 2 oscillating fans running all the time. What do u do for controlling humidity? I am one-two weeks away from flowering and i know it is recommended to have no more than 40%RH and for now i can't bring it down past 55% RH. Thinking of buying a dehumidifier for that, but don't know how effective it will be.

Btw is 22-23C/71-73F good enough temperature for the plants? My exhaust system seems to be working really well and even with an HPS lamp it does not go beyond 24C.

Will post some pictures a bit later ^^
Thank you very much for your answers again ;)
 
LEDRF said:
I usually run 78f with HPS. I like top canopy at 80.

Dehumidifier is how I keep my humidity under control.

55% should cause no issues, though, it never has or me.
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I am having a little issue of bringing up the temperature to 25C(78F), еven if i lower the lamp almost as close to the plants (cooling is much better than i thought). Should i try and turn off the oscillating fans or what do you usually do when u want to increase your temps?

Btw if you have your plants stretching up , do you bend them or cut them?
 
LEDRF said:
I bend them.

I use a heater to keep my temps up. If the room is almost 78. I set the heater until it just comes on. If it gets to 81, then I dial it back a bit.
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Got it. Managed to bring down humidity to 55 and to increase temps a bit. Uploading pics of the garden and a pic from one of the plants leaves with some problem, i find difficult to identify. This one is on 4th week of vegging and was kept on 300ppm nutrients for now, it started to show some signs of def, like little brownish or yellowish spots appearing. First i thought it's NPK def, and i increased my base nutrients a bit, since the plant is kinda old enough to recieve much more nutrients or so i though. After feeding him a higher nutrient mix, the problem got worse, and it appeared only on the 2 leaves bellow, but now it has appeared on upper leaves too and in much severe condition. Does this look like the plant was over-fertilized or am i missing something? Will try to water it with 350 ppm and see how it goes.

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Thanks for taking the time to do this, LEDRF! I'm about to start my first run of autos under a 400 watt hps with Big City Hydro coco mix in 5 gallon fabric pots and following your methods. I'll be using Dyna-gro Grow and Bloom, and am trying to decide whether or not to mess with Pro-tekt (silicon additive). I'm also considering picking up some mykos, but don't know too much about their usefulness in a hydro setup. Seems that they may just be washed away.

I'm a little skeptical about the autos, but hoping to achieve results even close to yours, which would certainly turn that around.

First, I'll be running a Dr Krippling Dizzy Lights auto, and either Dutch Passion Blueberry auto or Autocolorado Cookies. I have some other auto genetics, but I've heard that NL varieties tend to be easy and low odor, and Dutch Passion genetics tend to be strong, so that's where I'll start. Any favorites between the two DP options?

Also, I don't think I'll be able to use my tap water, because I've been experimenting with ph levels, and I just can't get it to stabilize. It continues to creep up for days. I guess I'll be lugging around RO water from whole foods...
 
Hello again, We have overwintered (in Australia) two Blue Haze plants in soil and they were looking good. We repotted them two weeks ago leaving the soil ball intact and put them into a 4 gallon pot and packed it out with coco. In checking the runoff the ph is going down from 6 to 5.4 and the ppm is going up from the 1100 we are putting in to 1600ppm running off! Some of the leaves are showing brown rusty looking spots over them. The smaller leaves at the very bottom are dying off. I can't decide if they need more or if they need less! We are adding 4 ml calmag to two gallons water along with notes. They have been in the flowering stage for about two weeks. Do you have any ideas. I thought perhaps cutting the feed down from 1100 due to the soil still being in place. It's not really rtw with the potting mix in the middle is it? Thank you so much for your input.

I have uploaded a photo of a leaf but although I hit 'My Photos' and select it for some reason I cant get it to appear here!
 
I was wondering what your thoughts are on a sog grow with 80 coco/20 perlite in 1gallon fabric pots. Thinking about setting up a 4x8 tent and taking clones right into flower.

I'm a little concerned about the time that will go into watering but I'd really like to maximize my set up. Any advice would be awesome. Your system is working like a charm so far, thanks for making all this information available
 
I started with 8 plants and watering by hand become a stain. Since installing a pump for a automated set up its a walk in the park and so far so good. It's very simple too once you get your head around. Recommend it :)

Iv not really trained plants yet but would expect good results .


RM's First Grow - Unknown Seeds
 
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