Ok so didn't have time to do water change before lights out the other day so did it the next day.
Ph'd water to 5.0ish that day though.
Water changed and now mix is 370ppm starting and high 5's ph.
Roots smelled and looked fine, MOAB isn't here yet so next change will start it.
I never liked DWC. The constant interaction between the roots and solution seem like perfect conditions for pH and nutrient fluctuations. Anaerobic conditions are always a threat. I stick with re-circulating.
If PPM is the same and the res is droping then you want the top off to be a similar PPM. So basically if you have a stable system then let it be unless it has been too far too long.
I definitely don't see the need to introduce water pH'd below 5.8 at any stage and not below 6 in veg.
I would mix up a solution based on the maturity of the plant looking at the size and the lighting restrictions as well as temps and humidity. It may be that your plant is at a stage that should be about 600 PPM and the res is now 700. (This is made up numbers and not meant to be meaningful). So top off with something pH'd correctly, not over done, and the PPM of something like low like 100 (do the math based on volume) to bring the tank down to 600 (Those are garbage numbers. There is a bit more math to it).
But if it is drinking it up fast at like 800 PPM then mix up some Solution to 800 for the top off. Feed it what it is asking for based on Uptake, PPM and pH measurements.
Alright so we used 1/2 tsp fertilizer per gallon. I'm gonna need 1/2 to 3/4 gal top off, so will use 1/4 to 1/2 gal even, to bring up the ppm's a bit.
Just don't wanna go to high and nitrogen problems continue or get worse.
I thought it was a 350-400 ppm plant based on last set of pics posted. I'll post some more and compare for new growth
Likely you are correct. That can happen normally when changing nute profile like when you start using bloom nutes. When the profile changes the plant may need time to adjust depending on the rate of photosynthesis and transpiration.
I would top off with pH'd water for the time being to lower the concentration.
That's what we are doin now thanks, we've been in bloom and using these same nutrients for 5 weeks now.
Today the ph 5 to 5.5, ppm 410.
Still drinking but not taking up nutrients.
I have not done enough comparisons to be a sound voice. I use some expensive stuff but it is strictly fungus which I like so I can control that independent of other things. Many companies sell much cheaper products that are likely as good but are bundled with beneficial bacteria which I make myself. You are looking for a Mycos product and all decent nute manf. have one in their product line. So if you have good access to one you like then use it.
A lot of people are happy with a product called Orca. There are different kinds so if you get a powder you'll wanna warm it up first to activate the spores. Let us know what you get and we shall see if that product has any gotchas.
There are lots of things fungi can do. What is most readily available are different types of Glomus which is a type of mycorrhizal fungi found in all areas of the world where roots exist. They have a symbiotic relationship. They soak up extra nutrients laying around that the roots don't need and later when the roots need them they will release them into the roots. In this way they act as both a buffer and a time release traffic cop as well as a good means of transportation. Different ones do slightly different things.
I recommend doing some research on those key words or fungi +hydroponic or something like that and you will find every company sells something. You just have to know what to look for.
Which brings up a good point. The label on the back is more important than the front. They should be listing proudly all the living or dormant things they are selling. The point is while looking at a brand get to the page that shows the label or the active ingredients or what not and there should be a list of all the things. The link I posted lists off a bunch of glomus you get in the stuff I use. If anything on there doesn't make sense google it. All of the important stuff they are advertising is easily found.
With some fungi in there the roots can really work correctly. For many plants it is the main wayof extracting some nutrients from the soil.
Thanks again for all your help, have been looking at Orca for now it's affordable at this point.
Still no MOAB, have to see what the hell happened in shipping.
Plant has seemed to slow way down and is just kinda paused all growth.
Do you think we could still have nitrogen problems?
Stunting happens for a lot of reasons. Most common is humidity, Nitrogen does often as well. They prefer to grow in warm and humid conditions during veg...much more than you are comfortable in. 80 degrees at 60% humidity is like tropical weather. When the humidity gets below 40% it can come to a screeching halt. There are many other things that can cause stunting.
In the future if you want real good responses... all you need to do is throw down a picture or two and if you can 3 days of res measurements (ph, PPM, Temps, Levels, Top offs) and we should have no problems explaining what is happening. Keeping notes in Hydro in the beginning is very helpful. I think you saw the journal Closet Case made where he documented his res for us? I splain just about everything you need in there to run a DWC.