Hi all! FNG first time DWC - Please take a look and give opinions!

We're getting the MOAB you mention, I saw you recommend it in another thread. Also lookin at getting silica, is hygrozyme something we should use also?

Thank you again.
 
When growing in DWC it is a very god idea to be using enzymes once in a while. it will break down dead roots and turn them back int plant food. Dead roots happen in DWC. sometime they get sucked into the pump or wrapped up and strangled. It just happens. So adding some here and they is good for the root system. I use it also to make home made additives from some raw materials but baby steps. Lets make you successful using straight chems the easy way first before we start doing monster plants.

The MOAB is strong so run it easy. Half dose at best in the beginning. The best is to understand the PPM requirements and don't get close to the top of the range. I will post a chart below that has lots of good data about how things change throughout the grow. It is for doing things right with top of the line pro equipment and environment. Until you get there I would cut the EC levels in half unless you start seeing deficiencies which is unlikely at only half.


Fixing deficiencies is easy and not very stressful on the plant. Fixing overdosing is difficult and can lead to long term detrimental and stunted growth.
 
Ok we'll grab the mother of all bloom and hold off on the silica and hygrozyme for now.

If we were to get a 600w HID I worry bout heat in the tent, we have one 300cfm fan pulling hot air out of tent but just passive intake. Would we have to get a fan for the intake also, or do you think just exhaust fan is enough?
We went with led to keep heat down in our small tent. It was rated 300w but really pulls 185w when tested.
 
So like any good chef I would mix the 2 to try and flavor the ratio better.

Tiger Bloom is a 2-8-4

MOAB is 0-52-32

Now those are ratios. So Tiger Bloom could also be read as 16-64-32

Then you get a better idea of how strong one is compared to the other.

So if you add some MOAB and back off on the TB (in roughly equal parts) you can get the Nitrogen down a bit while maintaining the high Phos and Potassium.

So in that way you wont lower the bloom nute intake but you can lower the nitrogen for a while.

For example if you are running at 1/2 the bottle recommendations. then you run it at 1/4 and then run the MOAB at 1/4 and then you have a fairly close dose for the plant.

Now I would probably back off the MOAB a little bit more because it works fast and is some great stuff and you don't want to over do it. but you can start there and see what happens.
 
So actually changed water yesterday morning, at that time new water was 399 ppm (I took 1/4 gal of mix out and added back 1/4 gal ph'd r/o water) and and ph was ~5.5.
This morning ppm 430 bout and ph ~6.5.
 
The res is telling you the nute solution is too strong. Top off with some pH'd water to bring down concentration and general pH.
 
Also we are looking at a new air pump and stones. Right now we have a 20-60g walfart special pump and two 10" long stones also from walfart.
We pulled the water pump hose out of the pot and are now using it just to circulate the resivour water too.

Those pumps are poop. I have the same and i now only use it to bubble my bene tea. I had to break down and buy good air pumps cuz when the root mass gets big it takes some good pressure to keep things a bubblin
 
I forgot but meant to post this chart for you. If it is unclear why the chart changes as it does....ask.

CCH2O-Recommendations-Graph-1024x743.jpg




Notice how 5.8 is low intake for Magnesium.
And if you want more Calcium or Magnesium uptake you run it up to 6.4

Nutrient_Uptake_and_pH1.jpg
 
Thank you again VI, I see how the ph levels affect how different nuts are absorbed by the plant.
You are very knowledgeable we really do appreciate all your time you take to read post and help!
 
Well so yesterday ph was 5.0ish 370ppm, today ph 4.5ish ppm 389. And I think I'm seeing some red leafs starting I'll post pics now
 
Depending on the strain reds and purples are normal. Just like some tress change colors in the fall,... for some genetics cannabis shows this. If it gets cold during the lights off period you can get some nice coloring.

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Haha man VI, I considered that and even looked up the strain characteristics of querkle.
But am so paranoid of nutrient deficiency I right away go to that.

It does get cool in the tent it is between 60-65 at night most of the time. A few times may have gone slightly lower.

What strain is in the pic, I like the looks of that!
 
It doesn't have to get cold it just helps to make the colors more vibrant.


That one was called Raspberry Cough. And I am growing clones from that plant now. If you go to the Nirvana seed bank website and check out the picture of the feminized Rasp. Cough. You will see an image with the colors exactly like what I was seeing all over. The ones that were shaded got extra dark and purple. The ones in the light were much brighter and red.

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