Here We Go Again

Yeah that might help to have a cooler setup. You don’t want to under do your self though either. What I mean by that is get a under wattage light then what they have for Flower. Young seedlings you really only need a T5 light.

I would start adding nutrients right away. If your haven’t been then you should be. Absolutely man!! :thumb:

you don’t want to give glowering mutes until they’re flowering.
 

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Okay so I’ve found this. It’s relatively cheap. Would this do the trick? From what I’ve gathered I have to get another inline fan that blows air THROUGH this lighting system then exhaust that out into an open area right?
 
Yeah man! That looks great!! Looks like it’ll keep your grow area will stay a lot cooler (hopefully)

you should be able to tap into your exhaust for that as well! :thumb:
 
Just checked on my autos and this has happened to the leaves. Have I used the ph up/down wrong? I tested it with my ph checker and it was on 5.8 prior to watering them? This only started after I started ensuring the ph was 5.8, before I was just using water directly from the tap. Should I increase the ph?
 

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Ducky1 said:
Just checked on my autos and this has happened to the leaves. Have I used the ph up/down wrong? I tested it with my ph checker and it was on 5.8 prior to watering them? This only started after I started ensuring the ph was 5.8, before I was just using water directly from the tap. Should I increase the ph?
Click to expand...
The only thing I can find that similar to what is happening with the leaves is Boron. Check it out. It's usually lacking nutrients.
20200423_065736~2.jpg

20200331_145340.jpg

Let me know what you think...
:passitleft:
 
CagedApe said:
The only thing I can find that similar to what is happening with the leaves is Boron. Check it out. It's usually lacking nutrients.
20200423_065736~2.jpg

20200331_145340.jpg

Let me know what you think...
:passitleft:
Click to expand...

ahhhh okay that seems like the issue with the autos at the moment as far as I can tell everything described on that page I can see with them, they feel a little bristle aswell. As far as I’ve been made aware they’re a 60 day harvest auto.They’re roughly 22 days into the plant pot now. Would I be right in thinking I should add vegging nutes for now?
 
CagedApe said:
The only thing I can find that similar to what is happening with the leaves is Boron. Check it out. It's usually lacking nutrients.
20200423_065736~2.jpg

20200331_145340.jpg

Let me know what you think...
:passitleft:
Click to expand...
I’ve got that book as well... what a great book!! That’s actually where I started (George’s forum) and learned most of what I know is from that book. haven’t opened it in a while tho.
 
Ducky1 said:
Just checked on my autos and this has happened to the leaves. Have I used the ph up/down wrong? I tested it with my ph checker and it was on 5.8 prior to watering them? This only started after I started ensuring the ph was 5.8, before I was just using water directly from the tap. Should I increase the ph?
Click to expand...
Looks likePH fluctuation to me. My apologies. With those clay balls I would have assumed 5.8 would be optimal ph. Maybe go back to 6.2-6.5 again.

my apologies again man!!:Namaste:

PH fluctuations
 
Backlipslide said:
Looks likePH fluctuation to me. My apologies. With those clay balls I would have assumed 5.8 would be optimal ph. Maybe go back to 6.2-6.5 again.

my apologies again man!!:Namaste:

PH fluctuations
Click to expand...

ahhhh okay now that makes even more sense. Should I just go back to not using ph up/down and just put water straight from the tap in again or should I only slightly lower the ph from what it is on tap?
No need to apologise, both of you guys have been tremendous help and without you both I would be left with a hole in my head where I’ve been scratching it wondering what to do next!
 
If things went south after PH’ing, then absolutely. Keep doing what your doing. Hopefully she bounces back! I feel terrible!! Lol :passitleft:
 
This second batch looks fried.

Just waiting on the air cooler lighting, in-line fan kit and extra ducting to arrive. This virus is causing mass delays. I have a fear this is still not going to bring temperatures down. It’s at 35 right now with the weather getting hotter. I need to drop this by 10 degrees.

my plan is to extract into the attic then set the inline fan to vent from a gap in the attic that leads to outside into the air cooled lighting system. I really don’t think this is going to cool it down by 10 degrees. Under no circumstances can I open a window in that room. I don’t know how much more I can afford to put into this. Am I doomed?
 
Ducky1 said:
This second batch looks fried.

Just waiting on the air cooler lighting, in-line fan kit and extra ducting to arrive. This virus is causing mass delays. I have a fear this is still not going to bring temperatures down. It’s at 35 right now with the weather getting hotter. I need to drop this by 10 degrees.

my plan is to extract into the attic then set the inline fan to vent from a gap in the attic that leads to outside into the air cooled lighting system. I really don’t think this is going to cool it down by 10 degrees. Under no circumstances can I open a window in that room. I don’t know how much more I can afford to put into this. Am I doomed?
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Your not doomed. Just take it with a grain of salt at a time. All a person can do, is try.... the other option is getting an ac unit and have it pushing into the tent.
 
Here is how they’re currently doing. There has been no progress whatsoever from other photos I have taken and we’re now approaching 4 weeks. I’m going to say this batch is now dead too. Instead of wasting more seeds again shall I just start testing the environment prior to setting up a new batch?
 

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I might unzip the front of the tent today and test temperatures then. Is this worth giving a go or is leaving the tent completely open at the front not good for growing conditions?
 
Ducky1 said:
I might unzip the front of the tent today and test temperatures then. Is this worth giving a go or is leaving the tent completely open at the front not good for growing conditions?
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Well no, because when they have nighttime, it would be difficult to keep their environment pitch black.

I’m sorry for your troubles... this isn’t what growing is meant to be. It’s meant to be relaxing and stress free... I think part of the problem, is those clay balls your growing in. They’re ideal for DWC growing. The roots should be sitting in water basically... I’m gunna give my buddy west hippie a call and see if he can straighten this out. @West Hippie
 
Backlipslide said:
Well no, because when they have nighttime, it would be difficult to keep their environment pitch black.

I’m sorry for your troubles... this isn’t what growing is meant to be. It’s meant to be relaxing and stress free... I think part of the problem, is those clay balls your growing in. They’re ideal for DWC growing. The roots should be sitting in water basically... I’m gunna give my buddy west hippie a call and see if he can straighten this out. @West Hippie
Click to expand...

thanks for all the help and advice regarding this I appreciate it. I’ve dropped the ballast to 250w to stop them from frying but it’s capable of hitting 600w, it seems a waste in growing if I’m only going to be able to give them 250w worth. Anything at-all that would help with this that will result in no spending of money and not having to open a window would be a great help. I’ve debated switching this to the back bedroom which is currently mine. That way I could leave a window constantly open which would help the situation but this requires a whole rebuild of everything I currently have along with painting and redecorating my new bedroom which is of course a big inconvenience but if it’s the only answer we have then I may have to take it.
 
Turning your light down to 250 can be good because young seedlings don’t need a lot of juice to make them grow. The 600 will be good for flowering.
So those clay balls need to be in a basket, hanging above water. The roots need to be, sitting in the water. With a bubbler or aeration device to put oxygen into the water. Your water needs to be at about 5.8 for a PH, and you add nutrients into the water reservoir. With weekly water changes..

Or you could scrap the clay balls. Pick up some worm castings, and perlite. Mix 50/50 and grow in that rather then the clay balls.
 
Backlipslide said:
Turning your light down to 250 can be good because young seedlings don’t need a lot of juice to make them grow. The 600 will be good for flowering.
So those clay balls need to be in a basket, hanging above water. The roots need to be, sitting in the water. With a bubbler or aeration device to put oxygen into the water. Your water needs to be at about 5.8 for a PH, and you add nutrients into the water reservoir. With weekly water changes..

Or you could scrap the clay balls. Pick up some worm castings, and perlite. Mix 50/50 and grow in that rather then the clay balls.
Click to expand...

The second option seems a lot easier. Be prepared for a “here we go again 2.0” somewhere within this thread. I will scrap everything I have for the moment and start again. I’ll get the correct temperature and environments going first though prior to planting. Was looking forward to the skittles too!:(
 
Of got mixed emotions with that post. Great to have you try again. This time you will probably notice a difference in growth. I’ve grown in 30-34C temperatures before, it’s not unheard of.

did it help by turning your light down as much as you can?
 
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