One of them is going into this 30 gallon hempy tub on the new moon next weekend.
Make sure you sharpen your ax before you climb the (eventual) plant to go slaughter the giant and steel his golden goose, Jack
.
I’m going for buds like this
I love that picture. I forget exactly why I hunted it down on the Internet. Someone was running a contest, post any pictures of a bud and see which one gets the most likes, I think. The head-sized bud caught my eye (as did the cute brunette with the ample assets
). Whatever the contest was, it didn't win (IIRC).
My ac is 9000 BTU just enough for fls. it means it can just cool only one 400 watt hps or 600ish LED.
And the other movable ac is too much loudy, dont have any idea what will i do in mid summer with this 8*4 tent.
To paraphrase my brother, "Garden smarter, not harder." If you have HID lighting and are worried about temperature issues, why would you try to use an air conditioner to cool the lighting
and the space? That's what "air-cooled" reflectors are for, lol. Your lighting is going to produce ~3.412141633 BTU of heat per hour per watt. Get that heat
OUT of your grow space! Run ducting into your grow space, through an air cooled fixture (or multiple ones), through another section of ducting, through your exhaust fans, through still more ducting... to somewhere that you aren't trying to keep cool. Like outside. Seal the run off from the grow space, and you don't even need a carbon filter on it - because air that is merely hot doesn't smell like a cannabis garden.That means you're not going to be pushing air through a restriction, which makes things easier for the fan. If this seems to be a little inadequate, use a stronger fan, insulated ducting material, a reflector for which someone makes an insulated cover, or all of these things. At the end of the day, an air-cooled light fixture should be adding
minimal heat to a grow space. As in, "Gee, it feels a little warm
when I place my hand directly against the glass.
Do the above even if you need to run an air conditioner in your grow space for whatever reason (it's a sealed grow that you are adding supplemental CO
2 to, your grow is in Death Valley in August and your source air is already so hot that you'd end up with a hurricane force gale through your grow space - and firehose-level quantities of water to facilitate the required transpiration to enable your plants to self-cool - to keep things cool, et cetera). If you are not running an a/c in there, just use a
separate ventilation setup for the grow space environment. It will be far easier to control temperature once you've properly dealt with the heat burden of your lighting. It should also allow your carbon filter (assuming you use one) to last longer, because the air passing through it will be significantly cooler (and you might end up finding that you require less airflow here).
By the way, the average portable air conditioner unit SUCKS. There was "a bit of a stink" a few years ago in my country when it became general knowledge that "14,000 BTU" ones were actually only effectively functioning as 8,000 BTU units. And that's just the dual-hose models. The
single-hose ones... I suffer miserably in extreme high temperatures (IOW, anything over 72°F), and someone offered to give me one of those last Summer. I declined their offer. Even the best portable unit is operating from a negative, so to speak, because it has to end up cooling
itself, in practical terms, due to having its compressor/etc. INSIDE the space that it is attempting to cool. If you really feel you must use one, make sure it is a dual-hose model (yours might be, IDK). Use insulated hoses. And, for Pete's sake, make sure that the exhaust hose and the intake hose don't end up side-by-side on their other ends, otherwise you tend to "recycle" at least a portion of the hot air.
I actually did once see a high-quality portable air conditioner. Seemed like it weighed as much as (or more than) I did. Insulated hoses - and they were a good bit lengthier than the usual five feet. Very industrial-looking piece of kit. Would have been capable of keeping products in a commercial cooler from spoiling when the cooler failed (and that was one of the uses it was rated for). I think it cost something like $2,800, lol. But if you're shopping in that neighborhood (in terms of cost), just buy a mini-split and cool your grow room plus one or more rooms in your house.
As with many of my posts here, the above is my
opinion.
If you have the headroom, you could try a 5 gallon bucket. But the footprint is pretty close to a 2 gallon bucket, so raise the hole for a bigger reservoir, say 3 inches.
Headroom
and light intensity. If you spread your canopy out, you don't need the "strength of penetration" that you do if you have a significantly thicker one. Assuming a reasonably dense canopy, of course. One of the motivations for the SCROG method was because people were trying to produce a decent crop from low-intensity fluorescent tubes.
(. 
