Why would someone say that? Interesting that it can't be used in soil. Seems like a poor marketing tactic. Use everywhere except in soil.
Growing Without Bloom Nutes By Farside05
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
It even says it’s for soil on the bag. Didn’t make any since to me.
It is quite safe to use in soil. It can never be added until after week two of flower to a maximum of 1g/gallon. Anytime before that and you'll have issues. The problem is not in the media it's with the high levels of P and K in BE. Add that to the already high levels in MC and that's when issues arise.
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
The issue was that I was hitting them too hard with the N in the MC. I was only giving them a week or less to adjust to the .5g/gal bump, when it seems I should have waited a bit longer between bumps. I went from 4.5 to 5, then to 5.5 the same week.
This is what’s confusing about all of this.
This was GLN response:
1) This ratio is OK, usually a user should pick to use Sweet Candy for soil (as a PK booster and soil conditioner), or Bud Explosion for non-soil (pure PK booster).
They should probably take the soil part off the bag and specify that SC is for soil, BE for hydro.
I was hitting them with 5gMC, .5-1gBE, and .5-1gSC. I went back down to 4.5gMC stripped out the BE and kept 1gSC per gallon. I’m finishing up week 6 from flip, week 5 from first flowers.
I swear those GLN folks have no clue about their product anymore. I know they changed the Sweet Candy formula to resemble BE, so maybe that's their thinking now. Several growers use BE in soil/soiless during flower and have no issues.This was GLN response:
1) This ratio is OK, usually a user should pick to use Sweet Candy for soil (as a PK booster and soil conditioner), or Bud Explosion for non-soil (pure PK booster).
They should probably take the soil part off the bag and specify that SC is for soil, BE for hydro.
I was hitting them with 5gMC, .5-1gBE, and .5-1gSC. I went back down to 4.5gMC stripped out the BE and kept 1gSC per gallon. I’m finishing up week 6 from flip, week 5 from first flowers.
Thanks for the info Adam.
CADBOY
Well-Known Member
How do you have 15 led strips on your lights only at 300 watts? I have only 4 strips maxing out at 240w. Our led builds are extremely similar.
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
Different leds more than likely.
CADBOY
Well-Known Member
@farside05 do you have a build thread for your led lights? Be interested in seeing what ya did.
Good job with it by the way.
Good job with it by the way.
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
Agreed. I’ve been looking into building my own ever since I saw them. Have you ever looked at Samsung’s led line up?
CADBOY
Well-Known Member
Yes I have. I built mine with Samsung leds
- Thread starter
- #1,991
Makes sense re: the new changed formula. Doesn't SC have carbs for feeding microlife whereas BE doesn't? If that's the case I can see where they're coming from. Not that I'm buying either. I got my own methodology on supplements and it seems to work fine and dandy.
Bridgelux vs Samsung. And even at that, different model Samsung's have different specs requiring a different number of strips at given wattages.
^^^This
Here is where I built my light. Not really a full step by step, but a few pics from assembly. I used This article from LED Gardner as my guide for my parts list (look in the 3x3 example build section). At the time the Bridgelux build was a few dollars cheaper than the Samsung's so cost wasn't much of a deciding factor. I chose the Bridgelux for more strips thinking it would mean more even coverage. Half way through assembly I was wishing I'd have chosen the Samsung's because having so many more strips equals a lot more work. It also makes the fixture heavier. If I were building one today, I don't know which route I would pick. Sure can't complain about my crops since I switched from old blurples, of that I am certain.
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
Yeah... since this whole nitro toxicity thing, I’m leaning more and more towards dropping the blurples and getting some natural lights.
Cant see crap for color or issues under blurps.
Cant see crap for color or issues under blurps.
- Thread starter
- #1,993
My whole schedule is based on 1g jumps every 6 days, from birth till they say they've had enough (peaking at 6g). My belief would be that it's more of a ratio thing. Not too much N, but keeping a harmonious balance of all the goodies. #2-1-3to2-1-4forthewin.
AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
Growing 5 different strains didn’t help either. My Bubba Kush wants more, the Glue Cookies doesn’t like a lot of anything, and the other three seemed fine with all three products at once.
The lighter 4 tops at the bottom left is the Bubba Kush, Black Domina top left, Glue Cookies top right, Darkstar bottom right corner.
Have you ever had a plant that wont get frosty? This is the only one (Tajikistan Hash) that hasn’t formed any yet.
CADBOY
Well-Known Member
Well ya made the right choice good sir, I'm wishing I had more leds to get better coverage lol Mine does very well, more leds would equal more spread of even coverage instead of some overlapping coverage and less on the sides.
- Thread starter
- #1,996
I still get drop off on the sides/corners. The only true way to know if my decision was best would be to have one of each style (less strips vs more strips) and test with a lux meter, but considering I have only one small area to grow in, having an extra unused light would be a total waste. Having a 4 COB array, one directly above where I put each plant, may prove even better yet, but efficiency ratings were better on strips. There's so many economical premade options out there for "white light" now that there wasn't in early 2018, I don't know that I would even bother to build. It is cool having something you made yourself though. Total 1 off custom. Like having a West Coast Chopper for your tent.
CADBOY
Well-Known Member
I hear ya in that. Was nice to know I built my own also. Cobs are good too ,)
Maybe one day we can "test" via lux readings, that's what I use to help with lighting height.
- Thread starter
- #1,998
I also have a lux meter I use for the same purpose. I guess in order to compare though we'd need one of those meters that shows what it's pulling from the wall so we could compare at equal watts. Probably would also have to be using in the same size tent too so you'd get the same amount of reflection off the walls. Lots of variables.
CADBOY
Well-Known Member
I'm just using a basic app. Lol seems to work fairly well. Actually used 3 separate apps to verify that all 3 had been actually super close in readings 
This is what I'm usually shotting for;
Vegetative 30,000 - 40,000 lux
Flowering 50,000 - 75,000 lux
This is what I'm usually shotting for;
Vegetative 30,000 - 40,000 lux
Flowering 50,000 - 75,000 lux
I use a little light meter too. I think I paid about $20+/- for it. Works well, especially in the early stages.