Graytail's Cupwinners in High Brix Soil - 4x4 - 600W HPS - Perpetual

Graytail said:
Yup, I plan to. I still see the kit as a distributed test program. If we don't follow directions, we don't get usable results.

I just wanted to get a feel for how the foliars and drenches work, so I've been using them on the 6-5-3. When I see what I get when using them on the kit soil, I'll have a reference.
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Well, comparing the kit soil and foliars with regular soil.....it's like comparing the flashlight with batteries and without.

Stuff happens in the proper soil....stuff you won't see anywhere else. When things are aligned, a little C-drench is like magic as far as resin and calyx swelling goes.

When things are "off" the C-drench can F-up any grow.
 
Doc Bud said:
Well, comparing the kit soil and foliars with regular soil.....it's like comparing the flashlight with batteries and without.

Stuff happens in the proper soil....stuff you won't see anywhere else. When things are aligned, a little C-drench is like magic as far as resin and calyx swelling goes.

When things are "off" the C-drench can F-up any grow.
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And I can prove it! :loopy::):laughtwo::straightface:
 
Graytail said:
And I can prove it! :loopy::):laughtwo::straightface:
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Well, live and learn! I've done worse than you.....plenty of times!

I learned early on not to mess with the soil. Then I noticed the following disclaimer on all the Ag labs foliar products:



Foliar feeding is like priming the pump on a growing plant. A prerequisite prior to foliar feeding is to ensure adequate minerals and biology have been added to the soil. When this is coupled with regular nutrient drenches to keep the soil energy at its peak, the plant is now ready to be “primed,” via foliar feeding, for optimum production.

Lets take a closer look at what happens when a foliar spray is applied to plant leaves. A well-made foliar spray is a dilute nutrient solution. If properly constructed it will pas through the leaf surface and increase the photosynthetic capability of the plant. In other words it will allow the plant to take in more energy from the sun. The difficulty is in properly constructing the foliar spray. It is very important to fully understand what effects specific nutrients have on plants. The wrong foliar spray at the wrong time can create a tremendous yield decline. Here is a very important caution when foliar spraying: Either know what you are doing or work with a consultant who does.
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They aren't kidding! They know what they're talking about. Imagine that!
 
"Lets take a closer look at what happens when a foliar spray is applied to plant leaves. A well-made foliar spray is a dilute nutrient solution. If properly constructed it will pas through the leaf surface and increase the photosynthetic capability of the plant. In other words it will allow the plant to take in more energy from the sun. The difficulty is in properly constructing the foliar spray."

Now that's interesting. I got the most damage in the leaves that were closest to the light - kinda puzzled me. I'm used to seeing N def in the older, lower leaves. So I boosted photosynthesis with the foliars, and then starved the soil with the cat switch - fastest leaves yellowed first. :idea::loopy:
 
Graytail said:
"Lets take a closer look at what happens when a foliar spray is applied to plant leaves. A well-made foliar spray is a dilute nutrient solution. If properly constructed it will pas through the leaf surface and increase the photosynthetic capability of the plant. In other words it will allow the plant to take in more energy from the sun. The difficulty is in properly constructing the foliar spray."

Now that's interesting. I got the most damage in the leaves that were closest to the light - kinda puzzled me. I'm used to seeing N def in the older, lower leaves. So I boosted photosynthesis with the foliars, and then starved the soil with the cat switch - fastest leaves yellowed first. :idea::loopy:
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Clear thinking like that will take you very, very far. N, being a mobile element, will always show deficiency in the lower leaves first. Too many people, when they see yellow think N. "Clever" folks will think Zinc or Sulfur....since the leaves are on top. However, there isn't a deficiency of anything.....the soil is just screwed up. Adding stuff will only make it worse, with the exception of Humic Acid and Calcium Nitrate. Humic acid will help "bust out" the clingy cations, as will the Ca++. The nitrate will feed the plants until things get sorted out.

That is exactly what happened, although it would have happened even if you didn't foliar feed.

Foliar sprays are not for the plant, per se.....they're for the biota in the soil, specifically attached to the roots.

Before I was doing high brix, I'd add this, or that.....try this tea, that tea......I'd see some results, over time. Things were green, leaves were healthy, taste was great....super cool.

Then, when doing actual, laboratory designed high brix soil, drenches and sprays.....WOW. What a difference a day makes! Each spray, each drench....you can see results almost overnight. That's because the soil is balanced, the biology is active, and we're feeding the plant according to a much more scientific and current methodology.

Mineralized Soil, major elements in proper balance
Trace elements in the proper ratio
Hyperactive soil biota
Foliar spraying designed to feed the biota

That's high brix. We often get confused trying to apply NPK or hydro thinking to the program. Neither applies.

Let the critters in the soil do their work. They do a much better job than we can.
 
I've been hittin' on the Super Lemon Haze, and I gotta say, this is good weed - I recommend it. It's a smidgeon too dreamy for me, but the buzz is still hazy, and you really can't fault the aroma and taste. And it has a serious punch to it. Oh, and the buds are really fat and heavy - can't wait to see what they look like dried. And it has a serious punch to it, did I mention that?

:blunt:
 
I just made my first dry ice hash - pretty cool method - got 2 grams from my NL Autos.

Super Lemon Haze hash tomorrow. And I think I'll take the fluffy buds from the first NL Auto and make hash out of them, too. I have all the Northern Lights I want.

Fun!

:partyboy: :)
 
Sheesh, I just weighed the dried SLH and got 69 grams!

Those buds were denser than I thought. I was hoping for 30-45 grams.

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:yahoo:

(I smoked a couple grams before it got weighed)
 
I got a big ol' pile of beautiful blonde kief from my NL Auto buds, 1.6 grams from from maybe 8 grams of bud.

I got less than a gram of SLH hash which kinda surprised me, but with that 2 1/2 oz yield I got, I ain' complainin'! Who knew a 23 inch plant would yield that much.

:yahoo::headbang:
 
Backatcha Sati!

I have a question for everyone.

I have a couple of plants that don't look like they're going to be great smoke, so I'm thinking of making hash out of 'em. But I just made a bunch of dry ice hash, and I'm not all that thrilled with it. It doesn't seem all that much better than bud - same high, jus' stronger. So I was thinking about something Doc Bud mentioned in one of his journals. I'd like to dust my Northern Lights with kief from the upcoming Kerala x Skunk#1s, to jazz up the buzz a little.

But, ideally, I'd want the kief to penetrate into the inner bud and stick there. If I just roll the buds around in a jar with the kief, I'm not sure how well it would stick. Is there some sort of benign binder/solution a guy could use to make it stick? Like wet the buds with something that hardens when it dries but is smokable?
 
It's been a disappointing week in Graytail's grow room. Temperatures got out of control - into the 90s - and the Keralas got cooked as well as the Jamaican Dream. Fortunately, the Jamaican was almost done anyway, and the temps finished her off, so I chopped her yesterday. Another harvest! :cheertwo:

First, weekly pics:

I'm ashamed to even post a pic of this one - it's a mess. The Keralas have nice big colas, but the calyxes just won't fatten, and I don't see much trich coverage. Now that it's had the heat shock, I think it wants to quit. Ugh.

Kerala1 - 93 days - 77 Days 12/12 - 56 since pistils

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Kerala2 isn't as bad, but I had to strip most of her fan leaves. This one looks like it's still trying, so maybe something'll happen in the next couple weeks.

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The Hawaiian Snow handled the heat pretty well, but she still lost some fans and lower leaves.

Hawaiian Snow - 93 Days old - 77 Days 12/12 - 43 since pistils

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The ones in Doc's High Brix soil are looking great! Even the cuts from them haven't skipped a beat.

JD1 - 64 Days - 4 Days 12/12

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JD2 - 64 Days - 4 Days 12/12

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Kerala3 - 88 Days - 22 days 12/12 - 1 since pistils ..... she went into full bloom this week

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The JD cuts are looking terrific! Doc had said that his high brix cuttings continue to grow while they're setting roots. That's what these are doing! The lil beasts are unfolding new leaves at the tops - amazing. I've been taking a photo of them each day, so when they're done, you'll be able to see the progression. Here they are yesterday at day 5:

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White Panther - 13 Days old

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Caramelo - 11 days old

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