But from how it all looks from over here, you've still got some tip top looking plants and cracking clones. 
Thanks, guys!
My dehumidifier pumps out a LOT of heat, so I'd be trading one problem for another if I tried to run it when it's been this warm. I have to treat the entire basement, 'cause that's the source of input air to the bloom room. It's been ugly, frankly - 75 degrees and 80+% humidity. But I've got it down into the 50s% now, and temps will be low enough to keep the dehu running when I need it. The mold is still there, just knocked way back for now. This summer has been demoralizing for me. It seems like everything pretty much went to pot ... as it were.
I gotta save these Utopia Hazes. Without them, the whole perpetual gets set wayyy back.
stash (a.k.a. part of my perpetual grow) threw balls-a-mighty at me the other day every plant 
I squeezed in some short running Indica dominants today it'll save my hairy white a$$ from a weedless holidays. I'm shooting for ho ho ho and not bah humbug don't give up keep tryin'! 
Hi Graytail. Just wanted to say sorry about your mould. I can tell you're not happy.
We're both in the same boat I feel downtrodden too. After 5 or 6 grows with grey mold, taking every top cola I had and shorting my yields, and yet another blown super soil grow, my
And I only have a year under my belt so I'm vulnerable to dashed expectations. A guy produces some stunning buds a few times, and he starts to think it's normal. For a year I read about this mysterious and persistent problem people had with mold, feeling all safe and secure 'cause, heck, I hadn't seen a whiff of it, ever, around here. Surprise! 
heres from me to you 
I'm just getting caught up and saw this, thanks so much for such a nice, thought out responseI wanted to reply to this.
It's good to think about electrical safety issues kinda like lightning. It's hardly ever worth bothering about, but when it is, it's a great big deal. So you don't want to make things up to be scared about, but you also want to avoid golfing during thunderstorms, for instance, and fishing on a lake is a bad idea, etc.
That panel draws significant power, like non-extension cord kind of power, like toaster power. If you wanted to run your toaster for several hours on end, how would you approach powering it? Does that idea rattle you a bit?
So, you want to consider this sort of thing soberly. It will mainly depend on what else is on that circuit, which can be a pain the the azz. If it's just room lights and small stuff, you're fine. But you want to add up anything else 100+ watts or so. A household circuit is usually 15 amps (1800 watts) and safe for continuous use at 80% of that, which is 12 amps (1440 watts). Your panel draws 780 watts.
[Edit] And for the readership in general: The problem with old iffy wiring is the rough places where it's bent or stretched or corroded. Those areas have a higher resistance to current and will heat up as it passes through. At a low draw it doesn't matter much, but as the power goes up the heat goes up and the metal wiring starts to get a little softer and any flaw gets a little worse, so it gets hotter and worse, and then ... if you're lucky, it just breaks with a little spark ... somewhere ...
So that's why we think soberly about higher current like several hundred watts.
+reps... So does that mean I should add up every single thing that draws ~100 watts in the whole house? Or do you just mean in the same room as the 1600.... I really don't know anything about electronics..... That'll be a PITA for the whole house but I can do it haha. I've actually noticed the exact same thing with whiteflies and LED's... I had a whitefly problem with an outdoor plant, brought it inside to grow in my shower for a while LOL, after a few days in there with my 240w LED the infestation was pretty much gone besides a couple stragglers. I didn't do anything so I was confused, but I noticed when I shook my plant, instead of coming back to the plant after a minute or two like usual, they bumbled around in the air aimlessly and one even flew into the toilet. My theory is the LED light blinds them LOL, which ought to make flying a total PITA, and once they take off they don't know where to come back!Allright, time for the weekly update!
As is often the case, there's good news and bad news. The bad news is that brix still sucks. The good news is that everything except the Carnivals look pretty good, especially the Utopias, and my whiteflies ain' happy. I'm sure the Bug&Pest annoyed the crap out of 'em and made it really hard to hatch eggs, but I wonder if the LED doesn't have something to do with it. Has anyone else noticed any bug-aversion to LED light? I doubt it's just the Intelligent-Gro. Anyway, my heat issues are ended for good, in fact I've been pondering the best way to raise temps now - can't get the room over 77 anymore, heheh.
but this is based on nothing besides a one time observation, a guess, and probably the fact that I'd so like it to be true hahaha. now back to getting caught up.
I'm just getting caught up and saw this, thanks so much for such a nice, thought out response
I'm just getting caught up and saw this, thanks so much for such a nice, thought out response
I've actually noticed the exact same thing with whiteflies and LED's... I had a whitefly problem with an outdoor plant, brought it inside to grow in my shower for a while LOL, after a few days in there with my 240w LED the infestation was pretty much gone besides a couple stragglers. I didn't do anything so I was confused, but I noticed when I shook my plant, instead of coming back to the plant after a minute or two like usual, they bumbled around in the air aimlessly and one even flew into the toilet. My theory is the LED light blinds them LOL, which ought to make flying a total PITA, and once they take off they don't know where to come back!
I wanted to reply to this.
It's good to think about electrical safety issues kinda like lightning. It's hardly ever worth bothering about, but when it is, it's a great big deal. So you don't want to make things up to be scared about, but you also want to avoid golfing during thunderstorms, for instance, and fishing on a lake is a bad idea, etc.
That panel draws significant power, like non-extension cord kind of power, like toaster power. If you wanted to run your toaster for several hours on end, how would you approach powering it? Does that idea rattle you a bit?
So, you want to consider this sort of thing soberly. It will mainly depend on what else is on that circuit, which can be a pain the the azz. If it's just room lights and small stuff, you're fine. But you want to add up anything else 100+ watts or so. A household circuit is usually 15 amps (1800 watts) and safe for continuous use at 80% of that, which is 12 amps (1440 watts). Your panel draws 780 watts.
[Edit] And for the readership in general: The problem with old iffy wiring is the rough places where it's bent or stretched or corroded. Those areas have a higher resistance to current and will heat up as it passes through. At a low draw it doesn't matter much, but as the power goes up the heat goes up and the metal wiring starts to get a little softer and any flaw gets a little worse, so it gets hotter and worse, and then ... if you're lucky, it just breaks with a little spark ... somewhere ...
So that's why we think soberly about higher current like several hundred watts.
You only have to count up what's on that circuit. Most homes have at least 4 circuits, and those are the old homes - new ones have dozens. If you really want to do it right, find the fuse or breaker that runs your lights n stuff, and pull the fuse or flip the breaker. Then see what else is off. Those are all you have to worry about.
And my whiteflies are still listless under the Intelligent-Gro LED panel. They much prefer the veg room now under the MH and CFLs.
Thank you both so much! +reps to both of you lifesaving good 420 Samaritans.
I love the detail and time you put into this, you definitely have made one of the most interesting journals to follow here IMO, keep it up~!
The bloom room still smells like neem oil and sulfur.
) Doc has been working on this approach for a few years and 420 growers have been using the kit for a couple of years now. Oddly enough, most of them don't take brix readings. So it can be a bit confusing - if it isn't about brix readings, then what's it about? So I can't tell you how the quality of my weed compares to anyone else's. But I can't think of a single case of a High Brix grower who thought hydro was in the same league as HB - many of them are skilled in both methods - and with a few exceptions, growers who've tried Doc's kit have stuck with it, so that's something. A lot of these people are damned good growers in any medium and they still prefer HB. My contribution is being able to personally say, "and it's really hard to screw up ".
