Manchester2020
Well-Known Member
Can anyone help me please
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What’s up?Can anyone help me please
That’s hard case.What prick made this mix??
Control - potting mix straight out of bag, watered
Experiment - top dressed with 2 teaspoons of dolomite lime, watered to 10-20% run-off
That’s hard case.
I did something. Possibly ill-advised. Remembered some discussions about "root-coring", so I poked a few holes straight down through the original root ball. Partly to provide some air channels and partly to break up the peat pellet. We'll see what happens.
Honestly I'm feeling pretty reckless about this little one. Maybe because I need a reason to boot a plant out eventually
My first thought was the soil pH is your issue. The steps I use for testing soil pH are as follows and you may be doing it a very similar way.If it's a soil pH problem, I have some dolomite lime to top dress with
What’s up?
They have changes a little over a week but I dint know what I'm doing wrong there just not growing
Hi there, Manchester2020.They have changes a little over a week but I dint know what I'm doing wrong there just not growing
I currently have a hygrometer what is your recommended conditionsHi there, Manchester2020.
1st of all to
I don’t even need to see the true colour of your leaves to see the distress going on. Single and three fingered leaves are usually a wee cry for help.
This is exactly how I first got involved here. I had three small plants that just wouldn’t die. Or thrive. Lucky for us it’s so hardy!
You can help us to help you troubleshoot by measuring a couple of things.
Two bits of kit I think you need are an infrared thermometer gun thingy for about twelve bucks somewhere and a hygrometer - something to tell you the RH of the garden.
Tap the VPD link below and have a read. Archie explains it well. If you can get your leaves working (transpiring) then you can get the roots going. There is no point messing any more with watering with this and that until you know the leaves work.
If your leaves are working then your roots are in trouble, but start with your VPD it is too easy. So easy it is often overlooked.
Have a read. Take some measurements if you can, then let us know what you see.
Photos in natural light next time please.
We’ll help you turn that into a respectable harvest.
Not mine. Archie’s. Did you read the thread on the other side of the VPD link in my signature? Bottom left.I currently have a hygrometer what is your recommended conditions
What does your meter tell you is happening in the room?I currently have a hygrometer what is your recommended conditions
My first thought was the soil pH is your issue. The steps I use for testing soil pH are as follows and you may be doing it a very similar way.
SLURRY SOIL PH TEST
The slurry test is the most accurate test you can do without actually buying a specialized pH meter for measuring soil pH, your standard pH meter will do fine. Don’t forget to calibrate your meter first, and to clean it properly afterwards. This is what you’ll need for the test:
– Distilled (or reverse osmosis water)
– Soil samples
– Standard pH meter
– Containers for holding soil samples
– Kitchen scale
And this is how it works:
1. Start by taking soil samples at various points in your garden. You should take the soil samples from the same depth every time. Measuring the samples separately will always give you a clearer view of the pH at different points in your garden. But, if you have a very small garden you could also mix your soil samples together in equal parts.
2. Add 1-1,5ml of distilled water for every gram of soil. So, if you have 50 grams of soil, add 50-75ml of distilled water.
3. Stir for a few seconds and then let it sit for at least an hour.
4. Stir again and stick in your pH meter. The value you read will not be 100% accurate, but it will give you a clear indication of where your pH is at.
If your soil has a buffering agent in it such as humus or lime then chances are you never have to pH your nutes. The pH in the media changes with the akalinity of the water. The higher the akalinity the faster the pH rises in the soil. Based on your results your soil may not have this so you'll need to pH your nutes accordingly from 6.2 - 6.5.
Careful adding lime. I use 1tsp of dolomitic lime in a 5gal pot mixed in when I reuse my media.
I had potting mix coming in largely between 4.5 - 5.5 pH with feeding, and in the low 4s without.
Lime typically increases pH and Sulfur lowers it. Here's an article to read if you're interested.All of this still begs the question, how do you correct the pH in a soil/potting mix?
Lime typically increases pH and Sulfur lowers it. Here's an article to read if you're interested.
Changing Soil pH, Soil pH Adjustment, Lowering Soil pH
Changing soil pH can improve plant performance. Lowering soil pH increases yields and improves flavor for plants like tomatoes. Raising soil pH improves performance of spinach and leafy vegetables.www.grow-it-organically.com