FirstGrow - Miss Northern Lights

[VtecHoe]

Hey Grant

Sorry ive been working with a few friends been saving pennies for the new car, Good news NL finished and the crop/smoke was good, not amazing, but i was very happy for a first grow, i got just over an Ounce off NL but ive hit a wall, Ive got 3 other babys on the go but the baby kush is no longer a baby, shes now a sickly little kush...

Ive added pics and info of the plant:

Sprouted: 18/12/2011
Age: 6-7 weeks ( cant count )
Symptoms: Yellowing of tips, curling of leafs, leafs are going light green as well on some of them... I repotted her not that long ago and that hasnt even helped in the slightest, Im not sure if its cause shes an auto or ive done something but she was put in the same soil/gauno as the NL and she seemed healthy up to about a week and a half ago and its got worse/progressing as well, Noticed stunted growth as well just seems to want to do anymore

Hoping someone can help me cause it would be a waste to bin her when i could try rectify her, ive given her no nutes other than bat gauno, shes been fully flushed 3 times now with 100% run off to properly flush her, roots looked really healthy upon repotting... And i dont have a pH tester to check the soil...

Wish i did another NL grow as she seemed a very hardy easy to maintain plant that could withstand abuse, the kush doesnt seem to have much tolerance or forgiveness

Where is my buddy grant hiding, lets see what you think of her!!!!!!!

 

[Jamers]

your NL looks very similar to mine.. good work!

 

[VtecHoe]

Id grow nl again in a heartbeat as its a very good for a noobie strain...

 

[ggrant]

V-Man, I've missed your sorry ass on my journal, you Scottish bastard!

I was afraid you might have succumbed to dipsomania!

What you have is a definite nitrogen deficiency and possibly a slight potassium deficiency as well.

Not all bat guano is created equal! Some types have almost no nitorgen while othes have plenty. It depends on where the bats live and their diet.

Bat guano is usually high in phosporus, which makjes it ideal for flowering. Your guano probably has lots of phosphorus, but falls short on the nitorgen and potassium end.

Do you have a fertilizer specifically for veg? If you don't pick up one like Botanicare Pure Blend Pro which as a N-P-K profile of 3-2-4. Most any good fertilizer for veg will do. It's when it comes time for flowering that MJ growers buy all the expensive ferts to tweak the flower cycle.

Anyway, get one of these veg fetilizers and use it according to the label's directions. I don't know if you've been using Blackstrap Molasses or not, but if you aren't, get some. The trace minerals will help avert mineral deficiencies and the simple sugars will give your plant some extra energy. Use 1 tsp per gallon.

Each MJ variety seems to like something a bit different. I guess your NH was a bit more tolerant of her environment. I've had grows where all my plants are healthy except one, yet they've all had the exact same treatment.

By the way, until the problem resolves itself, you might want to try foliar feeding as well. To do this, use the same Veg Fertilizer that you're going to buy (right?). Mix it up in a 1/4 strength solution (no molasses, just the fert itself) and spray it on your plant's leaves.

The leaves will absorb the nutrients directly and well as what they can get from the roots. If you're using HID lights, don't put the plant too close to the light after you spray it. Sometimes the beading of moisture on the leaves can cause a magnifying glass effect and you know what that does to ants!

Gotta run, but stop by my journal and say hello when you get a chance. I'm about two weeks away from harvest.

P. S. Since you have already smoked your last grow, and you said it was OK but not great, it's likely you harvested too early.

 

[VtecHoe]

Yes im still here, Not having a good 2012 though... Got court soon for dangerous driving which wasnt even my fault, i could write an essay but lets just say i avoided a car accident and they class it as dangerous driving, also managed to blow up my car ( 1 out of 16 valves bent and sucked through the engine and out the exhaust ), And still not finding much work up this way , 2012 is shit so far!!!

Thank you for the advice, i have gone ahead and ordered Botanicare Pure Blend Pro but could be a while as noone in the UK stocked it so had to order from america, so hopfully the kush will be ok until this arrives , She isnt looking any better just seems to be getting worse and more leafs yellowing, hope she survives!!!

Ill have a look in your thread just now btw mr g, Botanicare Pure Blend Pro <--- take it the application procedure will be on the bottle or what do you recommend? Thanks again

Ive got 3 other babys on the go to but none as old as the kush hence me trying to make her better

 

[ggrant]

V-Man,

Glad you ordered the Botanicare Pure Blend Pro! The dosage is right on the back of the bottle. I have a bottle in my fridge, but I'm too lazy to go look.

Changed my mind. Got off my ass and am looking at the label now.

It recommends 1 tablespoon per gallon for regular feeding and 2 teaspoons per gallon for foliar feeding.

Are you using blackstrap molasses as well? You should add 1 tsp per gallon to your regular nutrient regimen. If you can't find blackstrap molasses, try to find fancy molasses. Some brands of molasses have sulphur in them. Try to avoid these - it won't hurt your plant, but if you're doing an organic grow, why add sulphites?

As soon as you get the Botanicare, I would

1) Flush the plant with lots of water, say two to three times the pot's volume;
2) Make up a nutrient blend of Botanicare and blackstrap molasses in the dosage mentioned above;
3) Make a foliar spray as mentioned above. Put it in an aerosol bottle and mist the plant with it. You can do this four times a day if you like.

The foliar feeding works very fast - the leaves absorb the nutrients directly with having to wait for the nutrients to be absorbed by the root system and finally to the leaves.

Any water you use should be free-standing, i.e., make sure the water has been sitting in an open container for 24 - 48 hours before you use it. This will get rid of nasty stuff, like dissolved chlorine. I always have four or five jugs filled with water sitting on the floor. After I finish with one, I fill it again and it goes to the back of the line.

I wouldn't worry about your lady surviving until the Botanicare arrives. Just don't over-water her until then. These ladies can take a lot of abuse and bounce right back. Personally, I think some of them like it!

Sorry to hear about your job woes! That sucks! Still looking for work myself. Thank God I no longer have to pay for dope. (which was a substantial portion of my budget before I started growing)

 

[VtecHoe]

Hey Grant,

Bit puzzled by this auto-kush, With it being an autoflowerer ive kept it under 24/0 with my other 3 little babys... Now its gone 8 weeks 5 days old as of today and its showing all white pistils all over, Im just wondering does this plant need a hand to start the flowering process or what? Im just getting a bit stumped or maybe im being impatient

I have taken some pics and she seems to be looking a bit better after foliar feeding her with BioBloom, Still got the botniacare stuff on way though its got to go through customs to get over here doh -__-

Pics:

Give it longer or will i just pull her out and give her 12 hours of darkness somewhere then whack her back under 24/0? bit confused really

Any help is appreciated

 

[ggrant]

Hey V-Man,

Don't disappear and go under the radar! I know you're having a bad year and are bummed out! I've been there many times myself. Sometimes I've been so depressed I can't even bother to take proper care of my plants.

I won't give you any crappy speeches like "It's always darkest before the dawn ..." "There's light at the end of the tunnel!"

Jeez ... even writing that crap makes me eant to puke! Eventually though, even the worst hurricane dies out - you just don't know when. I think Life likes to kick you in the balls every now and then just to see your reaction - no real purpose, just like a kid burning ants with a magnifying glass.

When things get real bad, remember the immortal words of Ken Kesey,

Nil Illegitimi Carborundum!​

(Don't let those bastards grind you down!) Ken Kesey wrote One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest. He was known for his experiments with LSD. He fitted out a bus with a fridge-full of LSD-laced lemonade and drove around the country (the U.S., I mean) with bunch of friends known as The Merry Pranksters. The trip was chronicled in Tom Wolfe's The Electic Kool-Aid Acid Test.

You might want to check the book out of the library - it's a good read!

Oops, sorry - I forgot they don't have libraries in Scotland, only pubs.

Regarding your autoflower:

White pistils are good. Plants go nuts producing these as they are starting to flower. The more the merrier - means lots of buds coming up. I've never grown an autoflower, but they will flower under any conditions - 24/0, 18/6, 12/12. I would stick with what you're doing. I think she will surprise you eventually with a nice bouquet of flowers!

Keep posting and put up some more pictures. I've wanted to grow autoflowers myself and I'd like to see how she progresses!

And get some exercise! Walk to that pub across town. Enter the Glasgow - Aberdeen Marathon, you know, the one with Guinness stations instead of water stations.

 

[VtecHoe]

WOW that is the best post ever, Ken Kessey sounds like the kind of guy id like to buy several shots of whiskey before stepping aboard the magical bus ride!!!

Im just a bit confused with this plant as its 9 weeks tomorrow and no big buds yet, Just tons of white pistils, few amberish looking ones to... Im a bit worried she isnt going to do anything or needs a kick in the stem to get her going, But ill leave her for now GG, As for growing auto's im attemping another as we speak its called Bio-Diesel Mass automatic lol,

They dont grow as big, Dont like to much nutrients, they seem to nute burn very easily as i found out, I flushed the plant till i had waaaay to much run off, let it dry out and now as i mentioned ive been foliar feeding it BIO-BLOOM, seems to be bringing her back round, better leaf colouring anyway, and not as many yellow tips or leafs now

Some pictures for you Mr G, Can we go on the magical bus ride together or what?!

 

[ggrant]

Before you get your knickers in a knot, V-Man, check out the following picture:

White Pistils Everywhere!

This is from my current crop when it was 5 weeks into flower. It takes a while for the buds to form.

You must have patience, Grasshopper!​

Mr G, Can we go on the magical bus ride together or what?!

Dude, that would be so cool! Being on that bus would have made you a part of history - like going to Woodstock, only better. I don't know if you've read the seminal book (sounds dirty, but it isn't) of The Beat Generation, "On The Road," by Jack Kerouac, but the main character was based on Neal Cassady, the driver of the Magic Bus. Apparently, this guy was so wired all the time that he would juggle hammers to calm down!

P. S. Your plants are looking great! You had me really worried when you said you were hiding behing a dying Kush plant.



.

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

All looking good, nice to see more cfl grows.

 

[VtecHoe]

Your crop looks delicious, probally nicer than my spicey beef pizza i had earlier

I have switched my kush onto 18/6 to see what happens, bit worried about the other little babys if they get stressed or affected.... Hopfully not, ive got some other seeds ready to try if things go bad... Double big bud, Seventh Heaven, Northern Lights, Bio-Diesel Mass Automatic's and 2 other's that i dont remember what they are lol

Sorry for making you worried but i did honestly think it was about to crawl out the pot and runaway , Hopfully this 18/6 regime sorts her out!

That book sounds insane, im actually going to purchase it to read it as it sounds really interesting, Juggling hammers wired out your head on lsd, thats one way to try relax i guess lol

Thanks for keeping me right sir

Thanks fuzzy

VH

 

[VtecHoe]

Little update for you guys

 

[ggrant]

All your plants look great, V-Man. You've done me proud!

When harvest time rolls around, you're going to be lying on the floor, LOL!

Once you get a steady supply of weed, you won't need to go to the pubs anymore. Well, not all the time anyway.

Switching to 18/6 won't bother your other gals as long as they get to loll around in the sun for 18 hours a day. If the light period gets too short, they may think it's time to flower. 18 hours should keep them happy. A lot of growers think 24/0 doesn't do much more than 18/6. Just remember to keep lots of suntan lotion around for the ladies.

Well, I'm going to work on the post for my journal. It's already several days late and I've been kicked to the bottom of the third page on the journal list.

I'm going to have to put up an epic post to make up for all the time I've been gone.

See you there or see you here!

Later.

Peace out brother ....... And let me know when you get to the part (in The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test) where they encounter the Hell's Angels!

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

Your crop looks delicious, probally nicer than my spicey beef pizza i had earlier

May be if ya had jalopeno peppers on ya pizza ya could compare to the shear mouth watering bud of mine to your pizza !

I have switched my kush onto 18/6 to see what happens, bit worried about the other little babys if they get stressed or affected.... Hopfully not, ive got some other seeds ready to try if things go bad... Double big bud, Seventh Heaven, Northern Lights, Bio-Diesel Mass Automatic's and 2 other's that i dont remember what they are lol

I'm sure things will be fine, if in doubt go to thialand plenty of shemales their to short ya out

Sorry for making you worried but i did honestly think it was about to crawl out the pot and runaway , Hopfully this 18/6 regime sorts her out!

Na i'm not worried, i Hog Tie meh lil beatachs, when i feel they are going to crawl out of the pot... i think they call that LST training !

That book sounds insane, im actually going to purchase it to read it as it sounds really interesting, Juggling hammers wired out your head on lsd, thats one way to try relax i guess lol

I tryed to show a mate this trick, but he ended up with a perminate dribble, propare fear & loathing in las vages style...

Thanks for keeping me right sir

Thanks fuzzy

Ya welcome

VH

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

Ya wanna take a look at that leaf curling ya got going on their...

 

[VtecHoe]

Its been doing it since week 2-3... Dont know if its an auto thing or what, thought it was maybe to warm but it isnt.... kush is not the easiest strain i could of picked lol

Question: I put cana nutrients - PK 13/14 in with my water and forgot, And gave the little ones a watering, will this do anything to them? :| says only to add it in flowering period, i had it made up for the kush but forgot i added it doh

 

[ggrant]

Hey V-Man,

I came by to give you a sex education lesson, but I see that you have a leaf curling problem.

Let's start with "The Talk." You were wondering why your plant had so many pistils and if they were ever going to turn into buds. Guess what. The Kush isn't Daddy's Little Girl anymore,

She's a Pistil-Packing Mama!​

She's out trolling for sex and she wants it bad! Her pistils are waiting for pollen and no matter what you do (switch to 24/0, 18/6, 12/12), she's not going to hurry up for you. She has her own biological clock and won't change it for you, no matter how nicely you ask.

After her window for pollen closes, the pistils will withdraw and the buds contract. If she was successful, she will devote most of her energy to producing seeds, which means less THC. If she is unsuccessful, she will continue to develop buds and produce THC.

After I spent all the time writing this, I found a nicer description. If you think I'm going to delete all my hard work, you're wrong. You'll just have to read about it twice!

If females are not pollinated (fertilized by male pollen) they start to produce buds that contain sticky white resin glands or trichomes in a final attempt for pollination by attracting insects which may be carrying male pollen. The trichomes produce resins containing the largest amounts of THC and CBD, the two main psychoactive substances. Fertilized females produce resinous trichomes but more plant energy is sunk into seeds, which can be half the mass of a fertilized inflorescence; thus to maximize resin per gram seedless cultivation is preferred.

Buds of the first case are called sinsemilla (it is really two words: "sin semilla," which translates to "without seeds" in Spanish, but is often misspelled as one word). Potent sinsemilla is especially important to medical users, to minimize the amount of cannabis they must consume to be afforded relief. Cannabis with seeds is generally considered to be of inferior quality and/or grown with inferior technique.

Indoors, cannabis is induced into flowering by decreasing its photoperiod to at least 10 hours of darkness per day. Traditionally most growers change their plants lighting cycle to 12 hours on and 12 hours off. This change in photoperiod mimics the plant's natural outdoor cycle, with up to 18 hours of light per day in the Summer and down to less than 12 hours of light in Fall and Winter.

Okay, enough dirty talk. I had been wondering about your leaves. I thought it might have been a genetic characteristic, but it's not. If the leaves were all curling up, it would be a magnesium deficiency.

It's a water stress problem, most likely overwatering and overfertilization. I can't tell just by looking and neither can anybody else. What your plants are exhibiting could be overwatering OR underwatering.

The good news is YOU can tell! I found a great guide that explains each kind of problem. It's a long read but very thorough. If there's something you don't understand or if you're not sure your diagnosis is correct, post back.

Water Stress Guide:

Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems -> "Help, my leaves are

cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!", or, "My plant's leaf tips are curling down

and turning black ....what's wrong?" Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is

suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is

water stressed. It's hard to tell *exactly* what the culprit is, and unfortunately the

"solution" the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis-diagnosis only

serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I'll try to cover some of the

more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few

simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.

1. Over-fertilizing - the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf

margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is the overzealous use of too much plant food in

relationship to factors such as plant vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to

show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling

(cupping) or burning. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as

opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of

salts in solution (in the root medium) compared to the salinity levels found in the plant's

tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix

the ppm imbalance. In other words, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to

equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root's epidermal gradient. Back off on the

amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots,

especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as

soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the

problem.

2. High Heat - the plant is losing water via it's leaves faster than what can be replaced

by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down

(most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the

appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil

moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull,

greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal,

the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust

root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will

go a long way to prevent heat-induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling. One

short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and

cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at

the top of the plant. The damaged leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what

you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the

problem has been corrected.

3. High Light - yes, it's true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not

receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced

light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight

periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a

change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy

chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high

heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on

developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.

4. Overwatering - for those doing soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root

system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. In other words, the roots are not

getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root

decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe

cases, death. <gasp!> Overwatering creates a perfect environment for damp-off

disease at, or below, the soil line. A lot of times folks think the plant is not getting

enough plant food (which it can't under such adverse conditions). They add more nutes

for a "curative", and just add insult to injury.

5. Underwatering - not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate

moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up).

Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to water

from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. If the pot

feels light to the lift - it's time to water. Don't wait until the soil pulls away from the sides

of the pot or leaves droop before you water. And of course, leach (i.e., flush) once in a

while to get rid of excess salts.

All of the above issues relate to a plant's internal cell turgor or cell water pressure. If

water pressure within the plant's stem and leaf cells are positive, the plant will look

strong and stocky with flat leaves that are cool to the touch due to good transpiration

from the leaf surface. By the same token, if the water pressure is not up to par,

whereby water is being extracted from the plant and not replenished like it should be....

the leaves and/or stems will droop.

----------------------------------------------​

V-Man said:

Question: I put cana nutrients - PK 13/14 in with my water and forgot, And gave the little ones a watering, will this do anything to them? :| says only to add it in flowering period, i had it made up for the kush but forgot i added it doh

Not to worry. PK 13/14 is just what it says: a fertilizer of N-P-K strength 0-13-14. Here's what they each mean:

Nitrogen (N)
Nitrate - Ammonium is found in both inorganic and organic forms in the plant, and combines with carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and sometimes sulfur to form amino acids, amino enzymes, nucleic acids, chlorophyll, alkaloids, and purine bases. Nitrogen rates high as molecular weight proteins in plant tissue.

Phosphorus (P)

Phosphorus is a component of certain enzymes and proteins, adenosine triphosphate (ATP), ribonucleic acids (RNA), deoxyribonucleic acids (DNA) and phytin. ATP is involved in various energy transfer reactions, and RNA and DNA are components of genetic information.

Phosphorus (P) Toxicity:
This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability and stability of copper and zinc.


Potassium (K)
Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the
tugor pressure of it's cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce yield and quality.

Potassium (K) Toxicity:
Usually not absorbed excessively by plants. Excess potassium can aggravate the uptake of magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and effect the availability of calcium.

Even though it's a large dose of Phosphorus and Potassium, toxicity due to these is rare.

However, plants in veg prefer more Nitrogen that anything else. Plants in flower like lots of Phosphorus. It's no big deal giving your plants in veg a bloom blast. Kinda like giving them lots of gummy bears. They may have a little tummy ache, but they'll be OK. Just don't give it to them as a steady diet.

Here are a couple of quotes by people who have used the Canna PK 13/14:

I have used it for the time they say on the chart they provide. Seemed to help the nugs grew nice and tight. I grew 4 Black Widow MR N in coco and four in soil. The ones in coco grew faster had a bit more weight.

canna P-K is great i use it 3 times during flower. 1/2 strength at week one for a week. full strength at week 3 and 6. get pretty good results. but i also use rock resinator, microbial and bud xl during flower. microbial i use through the whole grow though.

Finally, let me end with a piece of history (this is even before my time!):

Evidence found in ancient burial sites indicate that humans have been experimenting with cannabis spiritually and medicinally since at least the 3rd millennium BC. Herodotus, an early Greek historian, described how the Scythians of the Middle East used cannabis in steam baths. The status of the plant has changed in recent years. In the early 20th century the US outlawed cultivation, consumption and trade of all cannabis species. Thereafter the vast majority of countries have followed a similar paradigm, imposing penalties that range from a small fine to incarceration and execution.

 

[VtecHoe]

I think shes curling due to over-watering after reading that, seems the be the only thing it can be, Soil seems dry on top but it probally isnt further down, ill let her dry out for 2-3 days and keep an eye on it

That description of my kush is trolling for sex is dirty, i just have this image of her asking the other 3 plants in there to ''fill her stem'' lol

Good to know the PK wont do the little ones any harm to

Thanks for all the info as usual g man, keeping me on the straight and narrow kinda

 

[ggrant]

The V-Ster said:

I think shes curling due to over-watering after reading that, seems the be the only thing it can be, Soil seems dry on top but it probally isnt further down, ill let her dry out for 2-3 days and keep an eye on it

No problem. I have a couple of questions. Are you pots plastic or clay? If they're plastic, then it's easy to tell when to water - when they're light.

What are you using for soil? I wonder if the soil isn't porous enough to let water dry out completely, thereby depriving the roots of oxygen. You can do two things: wait it out or treat the soil with Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) as follows.

Over Watering:
The plants in figure 5 were on a continous drip system, where nutrient solution is constantly being pumped into the medium. This tends to keep the entire root system completely saturated. A better way would be to periodically feed the plants, say for 1/2 hour every 2-3 hours. This would give the roots a chance to get needed air to them, and prevent root rot and other problems.

Don't be thrown off by the fact that the plants in figure 5 are sitting in still water, this is actually an H2O2 solution used to try and correct the problem. Adding an airstone to the tub would also help add O2 to the solution.

This is from the

Plant Abuse Chart​

Over Watering

Roots require Oxygen to breathe and low levels are the main cause of almost all root diseases. Both soil and hydroponic plants often fall prey to the same syndrome although it is rarely recognized as what it really is. Hydroponic crops often fail due to "root rot" and soil crops succumb to "over watering." The real cause of both these problems is a shortage of Oxygen at the root zone. In a soil system the soil consists of particles, a film of water on the particles and air spaces between the particles. When too much water is put into the soil the air spaces fill with liquid. The roots will quickly use up what Oxygen is dissolved in the water, if they haven't drunk enough of the liquid to allow air back in to the soil spaces they will stop working. In this situation roots will start dying within twenty-four hours. As the roots die the plants ability to drink water and nutrients will decrease, this will cause symptoms of nutrient deficiencies (mostly pale, slow, weak growth), and strangely they will start to wilt like they don't have enough water. It is easy to make a fatal mistake at this point and add more water.

How to use hydrogen peroxide

H2O2 comes in several different strengths 3%, 5%, 8% and 35%, also sold as food grade Hydrogen Peroxide. The most economical is 35% which we recommend be diluted to three percent before using, as at this high concentration it can cause damage to skin and clothing. When working with food grade H2O2 it is very important that you clean up any spills or splashes immediately, it will damage almost anything very quickly. This is extra important with skin and clothing. Skin will be temporarily bleached pure white if not washed cleaned. Gloves are strongly recommended when working with any strong chemical.

Once you have made a 3% solution do the following:

Three percent Hydrogen Peroxide may be added at up to three ml's per liter (2 1\2 tsp. Per gallon), but it is recommended that you start at a lower concentration and increase to full strength over a few weeks. Use every watering even on fresh cuttings.