First Time Growing

@Pennywise I checked the water perameteres late last night again and the ph was jumped to 8.5 again.
So, i decided to throw the entire mixture away, washed the bucket with soap and bleach and made a new batch.
I did wash the root system and the black contacier with tab water as much as i could to clean whatever is causing the alkalinity to increase.

The new made mixture only consist of MC and nothing else. Phed to 6.22 The ppm was and is at 220
However, today when i checked the water perameters the ph was at 7.54. I did use TBN down to bring it down to 6.35, but it has rised again.

Based on that chart, currently it is falling, static, rising

Checking my additional neuts grandmas mollases has 2% Ca and Ir i don't see grandma mollases causing this alkalinity issue. based on my research it has a ph of 5.4

Thoughts on what can cause the alkalinity to increase constantly?
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Emilya said:
Let's look carefully at your watering method. Your plants have all the signs that the lower roots are shut down because they have been under water for too long. Your plant is dying... it is drowning.

Take some time to play with the moisture setting of that 3way meter. Forget the soil pH for now, you totally do not understand the concept of soil pH... that is for another time, and I don't think it has anything to do with your problem.

Use the moisture setting and slowly push your probes into the soil, first 3" deep, like if you had put your finger in to see if it was time to water. Push it in another inch and look what happens... it gets a little wetter. Keep pushing it down until that meter pegs all the way to the right, indicating WET. Raise it up and down a few times until you can determine how deep this water table is on the inside of that container. There is a lake down there, that you have never let go down all the way to the bottom. The top of that lake acts like a diaphragm to pull oxygen deep down into the soil from the top and in cloth grow bags, the sides. Those big feeder roots at the bottom have to get oxygen periodically, or their natural reaction is to protect the plant from the flood until it goes away. Your plant is going into an almost hibernation mode at the moment, trying to survive that constant stagnant water in the bottom of your container.

You should not water again until your moisture probe can show you that the water table has dropped down to the last inch of that container. That region at the bottom never dries out because of capillary action between the roots and the bottom of the container, but if you wait till you can see that the water is down to that last inch, you can be assured that your roots have gotten oxygen on that watering cycle. In veg, forcing the plant through a clear wet/dry cycle builds up the roots as they strengthen on each cycle because they are trying to find all the water. In flower, where to tend to try to push water at the plants and never let them dry out, I have realized about every 4th watering I want them to dry out too, all the way to the bottom, just to reenergize the roots with a good hit of oxygen.

You have seen it referenced in other people's signatures, I am sure, but please ready my How to Properly Water article. We can save your plant, but you need to let her dry out now.
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Thank you, @Emilya
I am assuming that the picture throw you off because it was overwaterd.
The plants were in the same shape before I "flushed" overwater it.
I only did that to flush out the salts or anythign that was causing this to happen.
The flushing did have 5 min breaks in between. So really i waterd it 5 times in a period of 30min
I've had your thread of how to water in my signature a week after i joined, i think. Very well written with lots of tips.

Update: (Pictures are always udpated)

The plants are in the same shape if not worse.
After your responce, I did set the temps in the tent to 27c with 50% humidity. I did that to dry the soil quicker. I also squeezed the pot gentley to break down the soil and allow for air flow in the soil.

again, in my scenario overwatering is not the cause of the leaves being turning downwards like this. The plant leaves were already down for a day before i did the "flushing"/overwatering

Could it be a neutriation lock or a root rot? I only say that becasue of the last transplant from wormcasting fert to ProMix HP. I did shake off all the wormcasting from the roots. it did have lots of roots and some long once. I am thinking since the root is sitting on eachother in a circle it must of gotten rotted.

Also, when i gerab the plant by the main stem it does pick up the yougurt pot. This does tell me that the roots have developed further in the soil.

at this point i am just confused :hmmmm:
 

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@Pennywise is this white stuff normal around the root system?
Also, ph still rising and the plant leaves are crolling.
 

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Pennywise said:
Something is bad off, you need a good solid nutrient for hydro and a good ph pen.
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I only used MC and the ppm was at 220 and TBN to bring ph down
Both my PH pens are calibrated and working.

are the white stuff normal around the rootsystem?
 
@Pennywise I took the plant out of the black container. Throw away the mixture

bleached and washted the pale and its lid.
I am throwing the air stone in boiling water and let it work for 20 min

Here is a picture of the root system. This is after its been washed off with tab water. tab water temp was not hot or cold. Just normal temp for hand
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For the hell of it i just recalibrated my pen with ph 4. The pen setting is ph 4.01 or 6.86
the other water in the glass container is distilled water and than the tab water that is phed down in the grey pale.

I get different readings in the pale, but both pens show 4.00 in the pink mixture which is 4.01 bought from hydro store

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Pennywise said:
Maybe getting it in some fresh water. You should change water completely at least once a week.
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at the moment with these issues i am changing every 2nd day. until i get it stabled.
I can't figure our what i am doing wrong, when letterly i am not doing much. Just checking water perameters and phing down has been what i've been doing the last two days.
 
Pennywise said:
Keep ph between 5.8-6.2 and at 220 ppm you shouldn’t have any major issues.
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thats what i did on the last batch i made, but the ph kept rising.

I just have the plant in normal tab water for now. I didnt ph or anything. Time to figure this issue out once and for all.

The water that is in the grey pale is phed currently. No nutriants yet.
Just gona watch it for a hour and see if the ph rises. if the ph stays stable then ill add 1/4 tsp of MC and let it sit for 10 min and see if anything changes.

I'll keep the final ppm at 220
 
i only have a 99% hydrgen peroxide. one drop in a the water tab should be okay?
 
The Phantom said:
We’re you able to pick up the Hygrozyme you mention a few pages back?

Also check your water temp., if your tent is at 27C/81F I would bet your water is too unless you are doing something to keep it cool.
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no i have not picked it up yet. Been busy with work.
I will be picking it up today tho. Rainy day here in vancouver

When the tent is at 27c i drop couple ice cubes in the bucket. the water temp is usually between 23 to 26
 
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