- Thread starter
- #321
cmay
Well-Known Member
the sour has soild roots Dr,,,,the ak was the issue. See the Sour roots are white and nice
First Time Growing - Advice Welcome
- Thread starter cmay
- Start date
the sour has soild roots Dr,,,,the ak was the issue. See the Sour roots are white and nice
Canyon, Everything you see is "new" growth. The original leaves died. It's growing slowly. It was given to me in the pot, so I don't know the state of the roots, but FWIW, there is nothing visible in the holes in the bottom, although I wouldn't expect it at this stage. I'm concerned about the leaves because even the newest leaves have the dead end on them.
- Thread starter
- #323
cmay
Well-Known Member
Do you have a grow journal set up for this? If so let me know ill come over and take a look at it.
Journal? Surely you joke. I don't even have a grow room set up yet.
Seriously, I'll try to set up a journal as soon as I can. I'd just like for the subject of my abuse to not die before I have a chance to set things up. 
Edit: I just talked to the person whom I got the clone from. He said that there were not yet any roots visible in the rock wool block when he gave it to me (in the pot) two weeks ago.
Love the purps! Burnt plants are not the worst thing! At min if you man up and take it as a learning experience it was worth it.
So In DWC if you take it all away and it gets food back it is all about the timing. Done wrong the plant will hermi. It is very stressful and yes can cause leaves to fall. Doesn't mean it is done but it may come back with a vengeance and the surprise you a second time with seeds. IF it doesn't hermi it could come back with a vengeance.
You problem is you are normal and human so you are anxious.
for next time....
The trics peak. Then they slowly degrade. Very slowly. This is not a 5 min window. And flushing in Hydro can be as easy as 48 hours. So it is best to watch the trics until you think you are very close. Then you can flush and you will be happy.
A few days late and you wont notice. A few days early and you are leaving goodness on the table.
2 days flush, 2 days more under 0 light for 48 hours of darkness. That is 4 days and then you should be good to go. It is good the whole time to load with beneficial bacteria and sugars or molasses.
Anyway I fucked up this plant and just pulled it 3 weeks early... just now, and took these pics for you.
GO TEAM PURPS!!! Failing is a part of growing!
So In DWC if you take it all away and it gets food back it is all about the timing. Done wrong the plant will hermi. It is very stressful and yes can cause leaves to fall. Doesn't mean it is done but it may come back with a vengeance and the surprise you a second time with seeds. IF it doesn't hermi it could come back with a vengeance.
You problem is you are normal and human so you are anxious.
for next time....
The trics peak. Then they slowly degrade. Very slowly. This is not a 5 min window. And flushing in Hydro can be as easy as 48 hours. So it is best to watch the trics until you think you are very close. Then you can flush and you will be happy.
A few days late and you wont notice. A few days early and you are leaving goodness on the table.
2 days flush, 2 days more under 0 light for 48 hours of darkness. That is 4 days and then you should be good to go. It is good the whole time to load with beneficial bacteria and sugars or molasses.
Anyway I fucked up this plant and just pulled it 3 weeks early... just now, and took these pics for you.
GO TEAM PURPS!!! Failing is a part of growing!
@Doc
Rifleman is totally right...DWC is very easy for people who understand cannabis. But you are also very correct buffering is key. And that is what cmay is not doing. You can do all that in DWC. If you run a living res the pH takes care of itself. Therefore so does the uptake. Actually the pH will be a function of the PPM in a stable healthy system if it is living or not, just it is way easier to run it continuously living. By following the pH you can keep the PPM just right. But there is a learning curve and it is hard for these guys to do that and learn about growing all at the same time. It is darn near impossible to get a newb to not burn...but you see that in newbs in soil too. It can't be stopped. They over water and over feed.
Anyway there are 2 ways to really run the res correctly. Rifleman and I do it exactly the opposite so between us you can get an answer. But Rifleman is 1 weeker. He dumps his res weekly and runs by the numbers on a very good nutrient line. I just top of my res and run it live like my soil using the exact same tea plus a line of whatever in between tea feedings to maintain the PPM (it doesn't really matter the brand when you know what you are doing).
So if you run High bacteria and fungi rates and keep the sugars up there you can get the PPM concentration really high...but you need to be able to handle that without burning.
I go back and forth becasue you can't beat the easy of doing nothing on an organic grow. DWC is a heck of a lot of work but also a real hoot.
Rifleman is totally right...DWC is very easy for people who understand cannabis. But you are also very correct buffering is key. And that is what cmay is not doing. You can do all that in DWC. If you run a living res the pH takes care of itself. Therefore so does the uptake. Actually the pH will be a function of the PPM in a stable healthy system if it is living or not, just it is way easier to run it continuously living. By following the pH you can keep the PPM just right. But there is a learning curve and it is hard for these guys to do that and learn about growing all at the same time. It is darn near impossible to get a newb to not burn...but you see that in newbs in soil too. It can't be stopped. They over water and over feed.
Anyway there are 2 ways to really run the res correctly. Rifleman and I do it exactly the opposite so between us you can get an answer. But Rifleman is 1 weeker. He dumps his res weekly and runs by the numbers on a very good nutrient line. I just top of my res and run it live like my soil using the exact same tea plus a line of whatever in between tea feedings to maintain the PPM (it doesn't really matter the brand when you know what you are doing).
So if you run High bacteria and fungi rates and keep the sugars up there you can get the PPM concentration really high...but you need to be able to handle that without burning.
I go back and forth becasue you can't beat the easy of doing nothing on an organic grow. DWC is a heck of a lot of work but also a real hoot.
I am trying the no change method in my 27 gal reservoir. 85 days so far. Nothing but water for the last 30 days and she is burnt.....badly.
Everything I do is a learning curve since I have no memory abilities left. I'll be letting the buckets go longer now too, hopefully paying closer attention to the ppm....but probably not. It's near time to quit growing until Autumn and my heart is being drawn to my other hobbies so something has to suffer, might as well be the garden.- Thread starter
- #328
cmay
Well-Known Member
Well your right its a learning curve which i knew about. I will be going with soil next time and not hydro because its too many things to control. Doc knows ill be picking his brain when im ready for that. I chopped down the AK and she is drying. I dont know why bud rot was mentioned because it was only root rot. Am I being noob thinking that way? I looked online and bud rot didnt look like my AK so i don't believe it got to that point. Which is another reason i chopped her. I'll see what her outcome is after she dries and cures
millertm
Well-Known Member
What was said was root rot can lead to bud rot. Once roots are gone plant dies and all unharvested fruit will spoil. Hydro has the ability to kill plants in 5 min. Soil takes longer to die if mistreated. Just determine what happened so you do not repeat same issue. This is hard work and sometimes you get unlucky. But any pull is a good job.
Cheers
Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420
- Thread starter
- #331
cmay
Well-Known Member
Im confused what do you mean VI? Are You saying getting to 85 days of flowering or something like that? Also people can make it past what point to get past 2 weeks. I learned a lot and know why my AK got root rot. It wasnt from dirty water bc i changed it every week. I think it was a combo of the heat wave we had and getting the res temps up higher then normal. Im going soil next since i know there are ways to control the bugs that are in the soil sometimes.
VI my sour is now starting to show some yellow leaves so does that mean she is dying bc i took out all her nutes for technically 3 days? Mind you i listened to you and added those nutes when you told me to and she is still showing signs of losing her green color and fading to that of yellow and purple.
Should I just bump up the nutes and let her go for 2 more weeks? I noticed that all the calaxys are no longer open with hairs sticking out. I take a few pics right now brb........ Ok back and just too some light off shots... these are of the upper coals which im not sure they are done.
So now what do I do? Are these on there last leg and ready to be taken down or should i let the go alittle longer..but if i was to do that will i be messing them up more then they are now bc ill take her down now..
This is a shot of the lower part of the sour dee.....what do i do?
First off we don't panic everything is fine.
So the point I was making is in a healthy res you do not need to dump it at all. I know personally a very good friend for more than 20 years who as been growing near 30 and he never dumps his res. He runs straight chem ferts. Very basic line nothing fancy. No microbes no nothing he is just a supper anal OCD freak who knows his shit.
Rifleman was just pointing out he is trying to run out his res for the first time. He typically dumps it weekly and follows the rules outlined by Advanced Nutrients and has superior results for being a good rule follower.
Now to run out a res right you need it to be good sized. I have explained this a number of times on these forums maybe not here. Rifleman was pointing out he is running an over sized res (20+ gallons for a single plant) and he is getting it to 85 Days and has not needed to dump. He has no root rot, no infections, but he did burn his plants because like I said there is a bit of a learning curve to running a stable res.
85 days of a solution of luke warm water full of food sitting there not getting moldy or nasty...just nice and healthy. Don't know his secret just yet but... Having the know how to keep the res from tanking one way or the other for that long is fantastic. Most people loose stability by 2 weeks. Then they dump and need to clean it out and refill the whole thing which is a pain. It is much easier to run an over sized res and top of with a 5 gallon bucket every few days. Costs less too in the long run as you are not dumping out great nute solution weekly.
Changing it out weekly will not stop root rot. It may slow it down some but there is nothing inherent about just dumping the res water that cleans the roots. If an infection gets in there at some point you have to add something to kill it off. People who dump weekly typically are running a sterile system with a chiller and may introduce H2O2 regularly to kill everything. Now you can get away without the H2O2 if you are good and clean as the chiller keeps the bad stuff breeding t a minimum such that you don't even notice it.
Not going either sterile or living and eventually you will have rot. You may get a few plants through but you will also regularly lose a plant here and there.
First rule is buy the soil way early and put it in the garage under a tarp so that any bugs in there die off before you put it in the tent. Or mix it up into a blend to compost down and also sit it of to the side but do just throw fresh soil in there that may have eggs in it.
No not really. She is alive. But the natural cycle of life is a single season. To get it to peak ripeness it will naturally start to change from growing big green leaves in veg through many stages until the end. That said yes under extreme circumstances a plant can be killed very fast in hydro. I doubt yours is dead. If it is dead you probably will know by tomorrow.
The fading to purple...that is natural. That is something that is not a defect and many people strive for "fancy" colors. This is the natural color in autumn when the leaves are changing on the trees to yellow and red and purple. I have not seen the Autumn colors impact growth rate or potency...it is just what the plant does near the end if it is nice and happy.
Yellowing from the bottom up that is natural. The plant gets to a point where it stops using fan leaves and is bulking up the flowers and they start to run off the sugar leaves and fill out.
From this
to this...you can see the leaves turn red yes?
I think they are likely fine as long as when you added back nutes you went easy. Shocking the plant is a problem. You don't want to have the PPM shoot right back up. As long as you didn't shock the plant it is highly likely that you can bring her back online and finish her off. Just watch out for her going hermi. That is what will happen if this stress was too much.
- Thread starter
- #333
cmay
Well-Known Member
So ok im not going to panic. Does this mean from here on out I'll be watching her leaves dye off basically? How much longer would you say I have to go with this plant.
Probably not more than 3 weeks...but it is hard to tell on burnt plants becasue some of what looks like aging is not. In a perfect world that is a 3 month flowering plant. 4 month grow then typically unless you want it big. So since you had a few hiccups causing some delays it may take a bit extra. When did you start bloom?
- Thread starter
- #335
cmay
Well-Known Member
3/22 is the day I made the switch to 12/12 VI.... If people cut her now at this point are they only losing mainly weight or is it weight/potency?
Mornin cmay....ya...the heaviest thing on our plants are the gland heads....late in bloom these heads fill with goodness and swell. That's why it's never a bad thing to let the buds ripen, fully, that's when they are heaviest ,...and tastiest! Cheers eh!
- Thread starter
- #337
cmay
Well-Known Member
I like heavy buds that's for sure. I'll be waiting.
Yeah both are lost going early.
It is a real shame too. The way it works is it builds up over time the potency. It is exponential. The last 2 weeks it shoots up and the last few days are YUUUUGE. Then it starts to peak in areas... and then more of the plant peaks. And it takes a few days for the entire plant to peak. That depends a lots on how well trained it is to determine how evenly the maturation is.
So you wait until the plant has mostly peaked and that also means has mostly started to degrade.
Harvesting 2 days early and you loose a lot of potency. Harvesting 4 days late and you wont notice a thing.
So just ride steady and let her fill in.
Until you really get a feel for it the best is to get a 60x or better magnification lens (like $4 on amazon) and wait until you seen a decent amount of amber trics on not less than 40% of the plant.
Many people end up harvesting a plant in 2 stages if they let it get too tall in a space with insufficient lighting. So in that case you don't really flush the bulk of the harvest.
It is a real shame too. The way it works is it builds up over time the potency. It is exponential. The last 2 weeks it shoots up and the last few days are YUUUUGE. Then it starts to peak in areas... and then more of the plant peaks. And it takes a few days for the entire plant to peak. That depends a lots on how well trained it is to determine how evenly the maturation is.
So you wait until the plant has mostly peaked and that also means has mostly started to degrade.
Harvesting 2 days early and you loose a lot of potency. Harvesting 4 days late and you wont notice a thing.
So just ride steady and let her fill in.
Until you really get a feel for it the best is to get a 60x or better magnification lens (like $4 on amazon) and wait until you seen a decent amount of amber trics on not less than 40% of the plant.
Many people end up harvesting a plant in 2 stages if they let it get too tall in a space with insufficient lighting. So in that case you don't really flush the bulk of the harvest.
camper2016
New Member
cmay...you can get RO water from a fish store or aquarium that sells fresh water species...used to fill up up 5 gal jugs every week
- Thread starter
- #340
cmay
Well-Known Member
Ok VI you know i listen to your ass when you tell me things thats for sure...thank you