First Time Grow Journal - Outside - Kaya Gold & Freebies

KodiakKid said:
Brightlight, I do have a technical question. The sativa in the ground in my first picture on the left side. The tall one. It is growing tall and skinny. Big gaps between nodes, almost 6 inches. I know it is getting late, but is this o.k.? Is there something I can or should do? I'm not fretting, but rather am trying to learn as much as I can. The girl is almost as tall as I am. She's growing up about 2-3 inches a day and by this time tomorrow will be taller than I am. She was a freebie with my other seeds. Don't know what strain. Otherwise everything continues well as we get less and less light. I move the two in pots to chase the sun, but we're down to about 6 hours of good sun in my backyard which is sw exposure. Wish I could put them in the front.
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She's pretty sativa girl Kodiak! Healthy too. You could let her grow & see how she grows out naturally unless security is coming into play. Enjoy the show! You didn't say if she's in bloom? Good chance she is since it's 8/25 already. If sure she's not, you could do a fim. Would slow down the main stem & push growth to the laterals. Helps yield by evening canopy but usually done along the way. I like the top cola so don't top much. Sounds like you got it going....good work. No worries.:goodjob:
 
Thanks BL. Well, hell, I'm just going to let here grow. It is my first grow and I want to keep it simple. And I like the natural aspect of letting the plants grow they way they want. Not worried about security. It will grow higher than the fence between me and the neighbor, but I think she probably knows what I am doing anyway. She ain't gonna come steal it, and I am legal here in Oregon. I figure she will go to 8 feet. I don't know how you define if it is in flower. It is putting out calyx's one or two most every new main node and here and there on the secondary branch nodes. Nothing more serious than that. Others have just told me these are preflowers. What do I know? Not much. I'm just above 45 degrees N. in the Portland area. Thanks for the input. I enjoy the interaction, too.
 
Actually your sativa has more chances to survive budding in Oregon than your Kaya Gold which is heavier in indica genes. That's one of the things about which you always have to remember when growing outdoor. Any grown strain has to be selected according to your climate, not to your liking. Cannabis does much better outdoor when she recognizes that climate is right: temperature, humidity, latitude, surrounding vegetation, altitude. All these things are important factors to consider. Also go easy on nutes, you really don't need much of them unless you want to produce heavy cropper with shitty taste. Just saying, man :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
Thanks for looking, conradino23. I appreciate the input. I actually tried to choose a strain that would be as suitable as I could. It was my first priority. The seed supplier billed it as one that would be suitable for northern difficult climates. I relied on that. I'll just do my best. Keeping optimistic the weather will cooperate. We'll just have to wait and see. Thanks again. I appreciate it. And I'll for sure go light on nutes from here on out. Next year I'll have local options for strains that are locally suitable.
 
I still am thinking I made a good choice with the KG if I couldn't get a locally bred strain which circumstances in Oregon didn't allow for then. Here's what one well known and popular seed seller said. It had it listed as one of its best two strains for cold wet conditions.

"weather & wet conditions do most cannabis seeds in, but not these killers! These potent beauties stand up to cold weather, short seasons, high moisture levels & irrigation-happy hyenas. Unless something crazy happens, mould, mildew & rot will not be a problem."

And, "Kaya Gold is a Sativa-dominant species, highly resistant to pests with a sturdy structure. This rugged strain can thrive in most climates, owing its resilience to great breeding that delivers a big bodied, early turning hybrid.{company name deleted by KK.} Seeds closely guards (or chooses not to disclose) KG's exact lineage, which only adds to the mysterious potency of these cannabis seed" I deleted the seed developer's name because I'm new here and don't want to violate any policies.

It might have been a mistake, but stand by that decision now. My main goal right now is to keep the girls watered well. They are sucking up the water at an amazing clip. Almost every day of their lives has been hot. Today was just below 90 here in Portland. We've had more than 30 days over 90 in the past 10 weeks and virtually no rain. Unheard of dry and hot. As far as nutes, the girls in pots are awfully green. No more grow nutes for them. The two in the ground. One more grow feeding. For after that my current plan is to use a guano, not the Botanicare Bloom. Probably Budswel. And some molasses. That's what I am thinking. I would appreciate any thoughts.
 
Hey Kodiak. Stony Girl Gardens is local to you & has strains developed for your area & climate. Guano Co. Budswel is fine stuff, but mild. I keep it around & use it towards the end more like a tonic than a nutrient. Fox Farm Big Bloom is similar & imo THE best FF product. Unlike most FF liquids, it's organic.

Better yet maybe get a couple of bags of high phosphorus guano...a bat & a seabird. Sunleaves & Buried Treasure brands are good quality & not that costly. Just don't follow the dosages on the bag. I have some Sunleaves Jamaican Bat Guano that says use ~1 tbs./gal. of soil. Wow, that would fry them to a crisp! I've been using 1 tbs. per PLANT each wk. & watching for tip burn. Just a little bit showing up after 5 applications. I got to know the Vital Earth guys from Grass Valley a little. Good people & products. They taught me that bat is good for density & seabird for flavor.

I used to buy grocery store molasses but that got too expensive. Now I use Earth Juice Hi-Brix (molasses)....less than $10/gal. Surprising how fast I can blow through a gal. even at 1 tbs./gal.

Love your plants & approach. :high-five:
 
O.K, so on the dry bat and seabird guano. You just top dress with it and water it in? How do I figure how much to use for the ones in the ground. I'm trying to keep this as simple as I can but still go it right. But I really want to use the guano as I've been assured it is a major taste enhancer. Hmm. And thanks for the heads up on the Stony Girl Gardens, brightlight. I actually know of them as they had a July 1 (semi legal day) open house, and I went out there and met them. They gave away some seeds. Although it was really too late then, I tried to pop a few and only one out of four germinated. Not holding what was free against them, lol. Seem like good folks. Thanks for the help. You have been very helpful. I'm trying to develop and approach that fits me and the way I have grown my vegetables all these years.
 
Bat guano is a taste enhancer, it'll make your stuff a lil' bit more earthy and spicy, then it breaks down very slowly in soil. If you want some sweetness then you should look into Ca-Mg powders or liquids: food grade calcium carbonate, Cal-Mag, Epsom salts, lithothamnium, gypsum. They're all very good.
 
KodiakKid said:
O.K, so on the dry bat and seabird guano. You just top dress with it and water it in? How do I figure how much to use for the ones in the ground. I'm trying to keep this as simple as I can but still go it right. But I really want to use the guano as I've been assured it is a major taste enhancer. Hmm. And thanks for the heads up on the Stony Girl Gardens, brightlight. I actually know of them as they had a July 1 (semi legal day) open house, and I went out there and met them. They gave away some seeds. Although it was really too late then, I tried to pop a few and only one out of four germinated. Not holding what was free against them, lol. Seem like good folks. Thanks for the help. You have been very helpful. I'm trying to develop and approach that fits me and the way I have grown my vegetables all these years.
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I top dress the guano KK. Prefer it over mixing it into water. I hand water & the larger guano bits would clog watering can spout when mixed in. Use plant size to gauge how much to use for ground plants. I kept them all at the 1 tbs./wk. rate except for wks. 4-6 of flower when I tried to push them a bit by going to ~1.5 tbs. The slight increase led to a wee bit of tip burn, so I backed off to the single tbs. Hope this helps bro.:Namaste:
 
conradino23 said:
Bat guano is a taste enhancer, it'll make your stuff a lil' bit more earthy and spicy, then it breaks down very slowly in soil. If you want some sweetness then you should look into Ca-Mg powders or liquids: food grade calcium carbonate, Cal-Mag, Epsom salts, lithothamnium, gypsum. They're all very good.
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Hey con...ok are you adding more of listed stuff in bloom or relying on amts. from orig. soil mix? After transition I try to get by w/o more calcium since it can "compete" w/ the P. ??? My mix starts out pretty high in Ca so I try to get by with that. But your info has me thinking brother.:Namaste:
 
I just use lithothamnium, calcium carbonate and volcanic rock powder, but I know these will work :cheesygrinsmiley:
 
When mixing the soil or in the early spring for my outdoor patches. Lithothamnium is algae basically and I also use it in flowering cause the plant responds great for it.
 
O.K. now I am confused, Con, I was thinking epsom salts since I have it. But it doesn't have calcium, right? Might just add that since I have it. I think I got the "enhancers" down now. But as a dedicated first time grower my main goal is to bring them home decent. I hate to trouble you guys with endless questions, but when you are new to this they come up. And I don't care if my questions sound stupid. Because I am not, really, stupid. The only way not to be is ask. So far all my plants are just putting out the frequent calyx with hairs. A couple at most nodes, not any at others. So not flowering. But those are putting out the hairs and then they dry up starting at the ends. I hope I can assume this is normal. If not I'll take pix and maybe I can get some help. Thanks so much for all the help. I appreciate it so much.
 
Ask anytime KK....what little I know & can remember :rofl: I'm happy to share. I prefer langbeinite in soil mix, definitely at transition, & if a deficiency shows up. Langbeinite (aka Sul Po Mag) is natural(OMRI) crystalline mineral (0-0-22). A favorite ingredient. It's a fixture in my grows. Like it for sure over the inorganic salt form...epsom salts, which also has no K. Langbeinite is darn good at transition. Gives enough Mg to finish plus S for ripening & good shot of K...all at a very good time for each. Btw, I was talking about liquid Budswel being mild. Never used the dry form. Sorry for rambling.:tokin:
 
O.K. This is one of my two KG in a pot. It is about 8 gallons. This girl first showed herself as one about 2 weeks ago. She is a little more than 10 weeks emerging from seed. The plant is pushing close to 4 feet tall and about that across. Her third branches are pushing out, one to three nodes so far. Not flowering. Just a one two three calyx at some nodes with the two or so hairs. No questions on this one so far, but any input would be appreciated. One photo has a basket of tomatoes for scale. About 4 kilos, including a Cherokee purple almost a kilo in weight. Thanks for looking.

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I assume you're talking about preflowers cause these ones will show and then wither as they get old. It's just sex showing basically but you'd better show us zoom. Normally they should be flowering for 2-3 weeks in your latitude but Dutch strains are bred indoor and very often do not respond well to natural photoperiod descending.
 
Yeah, conradino. They are preflowers, I just didn't know what they did after they appear. But I am not flowering. I'll put up some close ups tomorrow to show what is going on. Bottom line they are not flowering. A grower in So. Oregon who used to grow outside in Washington said to stay cool, could be two more weeks before flower. Thanks for the input. I won't worry what the preflowers do. I'll switch my worry to when they will flower. Thanks.
 
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