First Grow Pineapple Kush Auto By Big Daddy

1 part 35% should be diluted with 10 parts water if I recall. That should get you to 3%. But there will be nothing left to eat the molasses.
So about 200ml in a 2 litre bottle.
I am thinking my next water I will do just H.P. with water then water and flowering nutes until final couple of weeks.
Then switch to water and molasses mix.
Also what are your thoughts on mixing H.P. mix and nutes? Can they go together or should I not do that
 
I considered that and I think I added cal-mag once, but I didn't do it the second time in case the cal-mag was deactivating the H2O2 before it could do it's job.

Personally I would only use H2O2 in my soil if I absolutely had to. By the way...is there a micro-herd in coco? I've never read anything about it as I thought it was an inert medium, more like hydro and perlite than soil.
 
I considered that and I think I added cal-mag once, but I didn't do it the second time in case the cal-mag was deactivating the H2O2 before it could do it's job.

Personally I would only use H2O2 in my soil if I absolutely had to. By the way...is there a micro-herd in coco? I've never read anything about it as I thought it was an inert medium, more like hydro and perlite than soil.
That actually makes sense. I won't be mixing nutes and H.P. either.
I thought there weren't really herds in the coco and that was one of the benefits of using it.
Personally I am more of a down to earth kind of guy and I like soil.
Well as this is my first grow, I haven't tried anything else; but I like the way soils feel on my hand and that's that.
I may try the coco in the future just as an experiment though
 
Ok wait, using peroxide will kill the microorganisms in the soil...
That means soil is "dead" after? From then on is it necessary to treat the soil in the same way as coco for example and feed with nutrients every time?
 
Ok wait, using peroxide will kill the microorganisms in the soil...
That means soil is "dead" after? From then on is it necessary to treat the soil in the same way as coco for example and feed with nutrients every time?
I see how that can happen.
However I am not sure, I am no expert on this matter.
Also ever since the girls have had more than 3 nodes, I've been giving them nutes every watering.
Granted it was quarter strength
 
Right. Anyone using organic soil and organic nutrients should never use H2O2. It means you will need to use salt based nutrients from then on.
Stored in my brain's hard drive..... Check!
:hug: thanks
 
Right. Anyone using organic soil and organic nutrients should never use H2O2. It means you will need to use salt based nutrients from then on.
I have organic soil but chem nutes.
If I use H.P. would I be okay with my chem nutes afterwards? How do I know if they are salt based?
Totally not about to taste it to see if they are salty lmao.
Also I am pretty sure but just to double check, my girls are definitely starting to flower now and I should change to flowering nutes right?

 
I have organic soil but chem nutes.
Salt-based is another word for chem nutes. They don't taste like salt (not that I've tried) because they're not NaCl based. That would kill the plant!

If you're not using any of the organics in the soil and you absolutely had to use H2O2 to solve some otherwise unsolvable issue, then that would be fine. I wouldn't ever use it as a preventative because, even though I don't use Living Organic Soil (LOS), I do supply the roots with Mycorrhizae through soil amendment powders and dissolvables every two weeks when I water. H2O2 would kill those root-strengtheners too, so I'd have to start from scratch.

What are you trying to do with the H2O2?

I would gradually transition from grow to flower nutes at this stage. Autos do a whole lot of stretching in the early days of flower (sometimes doubling in size) so they will need more nitrogen than straight flower nutes provide at this point. Try a 50/50 blend for 1.5-2 weeks and see how they look.
 
Salt-based is another word for chem nutes. They don't taste like salt (not that I've tried) because they're not NaCl based. That would kill the plant!

If you're not using any of the organics in the soil and you absolutely had to use H2O2 to solve some otherwise unsolvable issue, then that would be fine. I wouldn't ever use it as a preventative because, even though I don't use Living Organic Soil (LOS), I do supply the roots with Mycorrhizae through soil amendment powders and dissolvables every two weeks when I water. H2O2 would kill those root-strengtheners too, so I'd have to start from scratch.

What are you trying to do with the H2O2?

I would gradually transition from grow to flower nutes at this stage. Autos do a whole lot of stretching in the early days of flower (sometimes doubling in size) so they will need more nitrogen than straight flower nutes provide at this point. Try a 50/50 blend for 1.5-2 weeks and see how they look.
Oh didn't know that about the chem nutes.
I am trying to use it as a preventative measure against the larvaes. Or rather I was trying to. After this discussion I realized it would probably do more harm than good.

Also thanks for the 50-50 ratio advice, I think I will do that for couple of weeks.
Totally didn't even think about the flowering stretch, but I guess that's the whole point of this forum right?
So I can get knowledge passed down to me ;)
 




Hey all, just keeping you guys posted on the girls.
They are starting to grow like crazy, specially the bigger one. I honestly don't even know how they are so drastically different. I mean they are 6.5 days apart yet they look like weeks apart.
I guess that's just how it works right? There are certain parts of this we will never understand.
They are in identical environment and identical water & nutes.
Anyways I am currently starting to see the beginning stages of the bud development and super excited about it!
I have humidity around 60% and temp around 70F°.
Should I try to bring the dehumidifier in and bring the humidity down and temp a bit higher up? Or is this pretty okay for everything?
Also I am keeping the light on 18-6 through flowering since they are autos.
 
Ok, lowering the humidity is not a bad idea, in flower it is necessary to prevent bud rot.
Temp, if you can raise a little, but they seem fine.
There is something in this pic, that caught my eye...
20181114_115326.jpg
The leaves in the back center... Is it just the light or?
 
Ok, lowering the humidity is not a bad idea, in flower it is necessary to prevent bud rot.
Temp, if you can raise a little, but they seem fine.
There is something in this pic, that caught my eye...
20181114_115326.jpg
The leaves in the back center... Is it just the light or?
I should aim for around 45% or lower right? Temp range is okayish as well?
Also yeah I see that now as well, I was in a hurry when I took the pics and didn't notice.
I will further investigate when I get home but I think maybe I should hang the light little bit higher?
 
45-50% is fine for humidity.
Temp, just a tad higher.
We need to check plant.
If it is possible, take it out and investigate.
Bugs.
Could it be from watering feeding? Burns from light and water drops?
Is it nute over/under dose..
 
45-50% is fine for humidity.
Temp, just a tad higher.
We need to check plant.
If it is possible, take it out and investigate.
Bugs.
Could it be from watering feeding? Burns from light and water drops?
Is it nute over/under dose..
Roger that on the humidity and temps.
I haven't seen any bugs so I don't really think that.
However I am thinking either nute or light burn is a strong possibility.
I have a 1000W full spectrum and now that plant is taller, it's hanging about 15 inches or so from the top of the plant
 
Ok, just that top grow seems un harmed.
Were the leaves like that earlier too, before New growth.?
when you get home, send me a pm.
I come and we check it out. (what time zone are you in?)
 
I think your RH is okay for this early in flower. Autos can double in size during stretch and a little extra humidity can help with all the greenery that will be coming. Once you see buds forming would be when I recommend dropping the RH. And air movement is equally as important as humidity in mold prevention in flower. Blow fans blow!
That actually makes sense, ya know shed; I think there are methods to your madness haha.

Ok, just that top grow seems un harmed.
Were the leaves like that earlier too, before New growth.?
when you get home, send me a pm.
I come and we check it out. (what time zone are you in?)
Yeah I do think it's weird only certain spots are like this.
It might be because I bent the cola that goes over it all the way the night before.
It grew back to being up right again but until then, those leaves didn't get direct lights before.
I recently moved to Asia so I don't think you could just swing by and help me out haha.
Sometimes I wonder why I moved here at all
 
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