First Grow - Casey Jones - DWC - SCROG - Ice Probe Thermoelectric Chiller

aww you gonna make me google it to find out how long that more than 18 oz took? :rofl:
 
not bad if it wasn't over 5 weeks of veg pretty awesome in fact
 
Im not sure if I'm bugging out but this seems to be developing pretty rapidly and getting worse. Any help would be great guys.
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The leaf in the second pic definitely has a notch chewed out of it... Time to sit down with her and start looking at the bottom side of the leaves... You may need to do some bugging out there... Also clean out everything under the screen that's not going to make it through, and inspect that.... You don't need anything that's not supporting what's above the screen....
 
High Dabbledo

When reading the first post on your setup etc I notice that you are running pretty much all your nutes at the max listed on the labels. I use Sensi/Connie/Rhino/BigBud and some other calmag for my DWC, I rarely change all the nutes but monitor the PPM and add small amounts of nutes to keep the PPM at the level I want. I also use only RO water that I test before using as one of the stores I was getting it from rarely changed their filters and were selling RO that was over 200ppm. Barely better than town water that runs around 300.

The damage I see on your leaves is so sporadic it can't be something like a deficiency/lockout or whole classes of leaves would be showing the same thing, Some of it almost looks like insect damage and some looks like water damage. Do you mist your plants at all? Droplets of water will cause problems either burning under the lights or fungal/mold infections localized to places the water stays.

You say you have low PPM city water. How do you know and have you got a water quality report from your city to see what else might be in your water? Even if it's reasonably low in PPM that reading may be something that messes with your plant. I doesn't take much extra stuff like iron, manganese, sodium or even chloramine if that's what your city uses to kill pathogens like many do. Even if they use chlorine that you can evaporate out of the water it creates chloramine when it reacts with bacteria and organic matter in the water and does not evaporate out of the water. It's the chloramine and not the chlorine that makes your eyes all red if you swim in a public pool.

Your plant looks real good overall but if you haven't got one yet you should get a PPM pen and some calibration sol'n to test it with. My 15 year old Hanna still works fine and I recently got a new one for $25 that will read single digits until it gets over 200ppm then it switches to 10x for higher readings. The last 4 jug batch of RO we got Friday reads 12ppm which is really decent. I diluted some of my 1000ppm calibration sol'n down to 20ppm using drug store distilled water that is 0ppm to make sure it can read properly at such low levels. It read 19 so I know it's near dead on. The new pen is only used to test the water and the Hanna gets used to test my nute strength. As I use the pH Perfect nutes I let my pH pen dry out for storage and haven't used it in close to a year.

I would recommend that you use RO water for the rest of the grow to rule out water as being your problem and get a PPM pen if you haven't already.

L8r
 
Hello everyone, thanks for the responses.

@Dr Fish, Im 99% sure i have no bugs or pests.

I use a bluelab Ph Pen and bluelab truncheon for ppm. The ph of my water out of the tap is relatively neutral @7.2 and ppms around 100.
@ old med user it very easily could be nutrient burn from splashing as I was sloppily top feeding when the res dropped until i recently got the liquid transfer pump. it is very sporadic. I am using the AN directions on label, I started real slow with connie, b52, sense cal mag plus in veg and was able to hit there recommended feedings without any burn. when i switched to bloom line this week i just continued with those max feedings. I mistakenly forgot to check Ph of final bloom phase solution when i changed the res this past weds 8/5/15. It always settled into the desired range with the connie grow. Last night the ph was at 5.6 I am currently in the Dark photoperiod, lights on at 7pm EST. I am attaching parts of my cities 2014 water quality report. I hope this helps.

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looked like a ph issue.

glad you found the solution. your plant is going to be a beauty.
 
@OldMedUser, I cant find anything about this dreaded chloramine on the water reports. I do believe that i am basically adding chlorine by adding the DM Gold Zone. I do believe it could be a Ph issue. i posted a photo of the res temp yesterday and the Ph was 6.5 That prompted me to add some 1/4 strength Connie to a gal of water that i added a slight about of mad farmer ph down. This brough my Ph down to 5.6 in my res. I will check again when lights come one and get back to you.

Should I be Ph'ing my water before adding nutes? Ph perfect line has been 100% hustle free until this point.
 
Day 4 Flowering

Casey says good morning too everyone @ the 420mag forums. She is looking good today. Cleaned up underneath her skirt a little more today, well a lot actually. Pretty sure she is having an issue with the Ph. She appears happy as always, Ph was at 6.4 when she woke up. I would really like to get that down a bit. I will add some ph adjusted H2O before she goes to sleep. She drinks a little over a 1/2gal a day. I start her reservoir at 4 gals and let it dip down to 3 gals before topping off. If i add .5 gal tonight what would my desired Ph be to get the res to optimal range?

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You shouldn't have to pH the water first with the pH Perfect nutes. It's supposed to take care of that and I certainly haven't seen any issues with my plants.

Your water has a bit of alkalinity, think pH Up, at around 40ppm and hardness at 100ppm. What makes the hardness is stuff like calcium carbonate, some phosphates and other mineral salts. Every time you add more water you add to the total amount of it in the nutes. So if your ppm isn't dropping as your plants grow that's why.

Nothing nasty really in your water and I noticed a little * beside the fluoride but no footnote for it. Might say whether it's naturally occurring or the nasty added fluoride that's used as a pesticide on California's grape crops and a good rat poison but good enough to add to most city's drinking water. Very low levels tho in your water. The chlorine is pretty low so I would just get a cheap air pump and 4" or so stone and leave that in the jug all the time to get rid of the Cl and put as much O2 in the water as it can hold. I do that with all my RO water too.

If you keep using that water then you should keep track of how much you use to top up as you go along. You say it holds 4 gals so keep track of the top ups after you start a new batch of nutes. Once you have used twice as much as the bucket holds, maybe 3 times as much then do a fresh batch of nutes. If you already plan to change by schedule every week then you got that beat.

That leaf damage looks like it could have been caused by getting nutes splashed on them for sure. Just keep an eye out for more. I like to snip out all the dead bits to make it easy to spot any new damage. I'm getting a few bug bites on the girl I put outside every day. Grasshoppers and caterpillars are crazy this year. :)

A common cause of strange looking leaf damage is sweat burn. I call it that anyhow. One leaf is draped tightly over another leaf and as the plant transpires, sweats, thru the pores on it's underside the covered leaf gets sweat burn. Goes a light brown and looks like no kind of bug or disease problem. Just a brown band of necrotic leaf going across. All the leaf past the band will die so just cut the part of the leaf off below the brown area.

L8r
 
OldMedUser said:
You shouldn't have to pH the water first with the pH Perfect nutes. It's supposed to take care of that and I certainly haven't seen any issues with my plants.

Your water has a bit of alkalinity, think pH Up, at around 40ppm and hardness at 100ppm. What makes the hardness is stuff like calcium carbonate, some phosphates and other mineral salts. Every time you add more water you add to the total amount of it in the nutes. So if your ppm isn't dropping as your plants grow that's why.

Nothing nasty really in your water and I noticed a little * beside the fluoride but no footnote for it. Might say whether it's naturally occurring or the nasty added fluoride that's used as a pesticide on California's grape crops and a good rat poison but good enough to add to most city's drinking water. Very low levels tho in your water. The chlorine is pretty low so I would just get a cheap air pump and 4" or so stone and leave that in the jug all the time to get rid of the Cl and put as much O2 in the water as it can hold. I do that with all my RO water too.

If you keep using that water then you should keep track of how much you use to top up as you go along. You say it holds 4 gals so keep track of the top ups after you start a new batch of nutes. Once you have used twice as much as the bucket holds, maybe 3 times as much then do a fresh batch of nutes. If you already plan to change by schedule every week then you got that beat.

That leaf damage looks like it could have been caused by getting nutes splashed on them for sure. Just keep an eye out for more. I like to snip out all the dead bits to make it easy to spot any new damage. I'm getting a few bug bites on the girl I put outside every day. Grasshoppers and caterpillars are crazy this year. :)

A common cause of strange looking leaf damage is sweat burn. I call it that anyhow. One leaf is draped tightly over another leaf and as the plant transpires, sweats, thru the pores on it's underside the covered leaf gets sweat burn. Goes a light brown and looks like no kind of bug or disease problem. Just a brown band of necrotic leaf going across. All the leaf past the band will die so just cut the part of the leaf off below the brown area.

L8r
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@OldMedUser Thank you for actually taking the time to read and interpret the technicals for me. The *footnote states that EPA’s MCL and MCLG is 4 ppm, but my state has set this lower MCL and MCLG which takes precedence.

Makes perfect sense that i am adding to the alkalinity and PPMs of the water by topping off frequently. PPMs started to stay steady and have actually risen recently. I am very glad i didn't try to top off with adjusted PH water AGAIN today. Do you think i am better off going back to letting her drink it down to 2 gallons and then topping her off at 1/2 strength connie (8ml/g) only once a week? I notice a correlation between how much she has been drinking and me thinking i needed to keep her res topped off.

I like the idea of chopping those damaged leafs but after heavy trimming below screen today I will just cut the leafs in half so they are easily distinguishable.

I do not have the option to install RO system in my rental property. Did I understand correctly that you purchase RO water? If so from where? Would store bought distilled water have the same effect, adding to my ppms? Since the control for my IceProbe died (water damage) and is currently running on full power while lights are on, it will theoretically drop the temperature a few more degrees with a smaller volume. Just how much colder I can't say for sure but I will be finding out soon enough. Worst case scenario I have to replace control or put it on a separate timer.

Props and REP+
 
some stores/markets have r/o water vending machines you just need your own bottles
our safeways here carry them
 
One store in our town rarely changes their filters and I noticed it tasted off. Checked it and it was over 200ppm! Farm supply store is consistently below 50, 12ppm in the ones we got Friday. The best one is the little convenience store and it's always 5 or less and they are all the same price @ $3.49/5USG.

As a rule I top up when the level is about 3 or 4" below top. With the Rubbermaid tub that's about 10L out of a 35L tub. I would do the same with yours. If you let it go down to half then the 1000 it was when it was full will be 2000 at half the volume. Danger Will Robinson, Danger! (Lost in Space reference) :) Top it up with zero ppm water and it will be 1000 again. Use the tap water at 100ppm then you would end up with 1050ppm as you would split the ppm of the water in half as your are using half the volume to top up. The next time it's 1100 and so on.

I saw a cool setup to use an upside down 5gal jug and some tubing to feed water in as the level went down. The tube just stuck through the lid to the level and as the end of the tube gets exposed when the level drops bubbles go up the tube and more water trickles in. Go away for a week. :)

It doesn't cause any extra stress to the plant to snip the brown bits off. Pot is well adapted to damage from insects and grazing animals. They don't call it loco weed for nothing. The cows or horses would get into it and go nuts. I wonder who the cowboy was that got the idea to smoke some. :)

L8r
 
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