Fanleaf's Huge 42 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

JuanCarlos said:
Timber recommends the 4 COB Vero setup for 4x4 veg at like 3 feet away. I can;t speak for them, but I don't think they designed it to be a close up light like their CXBs.
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Funny you guys are talking about Timber, I literally emailed them yesterday about what setup would be optimal for a 3'x3' area and that I was leaning towards the Vero because it seemed to give more bang for the buck. Was trying to decide between that or their 6x Cree rig as the price point is about a $150 difference. The Veros do appear to have a higher par rating than the Crees despite having two fewer COBs so what's the pros and cons of both setups?


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Guys, it's precisely that I do get it that this question arose. We're talking apples and oranges though. If you give me a grow space I can design a COB system that will work. I've researched the hell out of it and worked the math. I agree that one 3590/ft2 is optimal for coverage using that chip. Given my original post on this subject we have a four Cob array. Let's add some additional parameters. We can assume that this array is covering 4 sqft and using CD bin COBs (since DBs seem to be in short supply lately). This array will be used for both veg and flower. We are using a 120V mains supply. OK, with all of that set in stone and knowing that fV changes with iF we have the aforementioned driver options that will work. Some will barely squeak by while others are overkill. We know that there is a driver efficiency drop when dimmed and a resultant COB efficiency increase. We know that the harder we drive the COB the higher the tC runs which affects COB lifespan and output. You see where I'm coming from now? At some point there will be optimal overlap of all of those parameters working as a whole.

I think JimmyJames is right. This is such new technology that there may be no optimization matrix. I suspect that it's more of an "it works" thing.

This is just idle curiosity. I've already designed, built, and installed my own system based on my calculations taking all of those parameters into consideration. Somebody smarter than me and with more free time should design a program that takes all of the variables into consideration to derive the sweet spot given any COB/driver configuration.

And... GO!
LOL


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Fanleaf's Huge 42 Cree CXB3590 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

Their 3 cob will do fine. Its actually a little more than you need. As mentioned you'll have to keep it 3 feet from the canopy. 400w of LED is extremely powerful.


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JimmyJames905 said:
They're 3 cob will do fine. Its actually a little more than you need. As mentioned you'll have to keep it 3 feet from the canopy. 400w of LED is extremely powerful.


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Click to expand...

I can dim it if necessary though correct? I run autos in my 4x4 tent using the GH Rainforest 318 and they typically grow much taller than what they're rated at; my last grow of Blueberry Kush was only supposed to grow to about 80-100cm but I more than doubled that height, so as a result I had colas pushing up against my lights by the time they were done, couldn't raise them any higher as my vertical limit in my tent is ~6'. I topped them on my current grow and that helped limit their vertical stretch somewhat but there's no way I'll have 3' of clearance. Can I mitigate that by dimming or will that just give diminished returns by not having the plants get the full dose of light?


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beornn said:
I can dim it if necessary though correct? I run autos in my 4x4 tent using the GH Rainforest 318 and they typically grow much taller than what they're rated at; my last grow of Blueberry Kush was only supposed to grow to about 80-100cm but I more than doubled that height, so as a result I had colas pushing up against my lights by the time they were done, couldn't raise them any higher as my vertical limit in my tent is ~6'. I topped them on my current grow and that helped limit their vertical stretch somewhat but there's no way I'll have 3' of clearance. Can I mitigate that by dimming or will that just give diminished returns by not having the plants get the full dose of light?


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Click to expand...

Dimming will not diminish your results. You can dim to around 200w for veg then crank it up for flower.


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JimmyJames905 said:
Dimming will not diminish your results. You can dim to around 200w for veg then crank it up for flower.


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420-magazine-mobile1370743531.jpg


This was my first grow and will give you an idea of what I'm working with. The large aeroponic reservoir is mainly what I'll have under the cob frame and my smaller DWC bucket I'll have off to the side under one of my other LEDs. I just have too much necessary gear in there to really run anything more than that. That's why 3'x3' coverage will be perfect for me but I'm a little worried about having enough vertical space to accommodate cobs; I was running my LEDs about 12-18" above the canopy before I ran out of room. Topping definitely has helped and they're maybe 6" shorter than before but vertical space is a limiting factor, just wanted to be sure I could dim and not have it adversely affect the final product. I got over a pound on this first grow so I'm figuring there's lots of room for improvement as most of the undergrowth was larfy as hell (none of it went to waste, made edibles from all that mind you). Anyway thanks for listening and for your help, much appreciated. I'll probably have to actually do a proper grow journal when I do get those lights in there and give you a shout out.



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Hey guys I wanted to share something with you. If any of you guys grow in a tent in a basement where in the winter it gets really cold in your basement and you have a hard time regulating lights-out temperatures expecially here is my solution to that problem.
My lights out winter temperature tent control. - YouTube

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Hi FF,

Maybe you can help me figure this out: I just put together my new LED lights. I got 8 CXB 3590 3500k, 4 COB on 1 driver 240/1400 version A and 4 COB on 1 driver 240/1400 Version B, 1 potentiometer 100k ohms, 2 voltmeter PZEM-61 showing amp and watt, wired on 16 AWG (no more than 7ft from LEDs to Drivers). When I plug both and turn the dimmers to max, the B version only shows 211W while the A version (without potentiometer) shows 240W. I can't figure out why I am losing 30W with the B version (with potentiometer). Any ideas??
:Namaste:
 
beornn said:
I can dim it if necessary though correct? I run autos in my 4x4 tent using the GH Rainforest 318 and they typically grow much taller than what they're rated at; my last grow of Blueberry Kush was only supposed to grow to about 80-100cm but I more than doubled that height, so as a result I had colas pushing up against my lights by the time they were done, couldn't raise them any higher as my vertical limit in my tent is ~6'. I topped them on my current grow and that helped limit their vertical stretch somewhat but there's no way I'll have 3' of clearance. Can I mitigate that by dimming or will that just give diminished returns by not having the plants get the full dose of light?


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Click to expand...

If you know that you will not have 3 feet of clearance between the top of your plants and your light then you need to look at a setup that has more COBs at a lower wattage so that you won't have to dim. If I were in your position I would go for the CXB setup if it was in your budget, if not I would opt for the Citizen.
 
Lansky said:
Hi FF,

Maybe you can help me figure this out: I just put together my new LED lights. I got 8 CXB 3590 3500k, 4 COB on 1 driver 240/1400 version A and 4 COB on 1 driver 240/1400 Version B, 1 potentiometer 100k ohms, 2 voltmeter PZEM-61 showing amp and watt, wired on 16 AWG (no more than 7ft from LEDs to Drivers). When I plug both and turn the dimmers to max, the B version only shows 211W while the A version (without potentiometer) shows 240W. I can't figure out why I am losing 30W with the B version (with potentiometer). Any ideas??
:Namaste:
Click to expand...

The potentiometer is adding resistance to the circuit. Make sure it's a linear 100k pot. Remove the pot and with the blue and white wires not touching (open circuit) test the wattage consumption again. If it reads differently then the potentiometer is the problem.


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JimmyJames905 said:
The potentiometer is adding resistance to the circuit. Make sure it's a linear 100k pot. Remove the pot and with the blue and white wires not touching (open circuit) test the wattage consumption again. If it reads differently then the potentiometer is the problem.


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Click to expand...

Doesn't he need a 50k pot?
 
Fanleaf's Huge 42 Cree CXB3590 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

50k will limit him to 50% dimming or short erratic dimming. The problem he is having is probably due to a low quality pot or the wrong pot. The easiest way to check this on a cheap pot is to put it on a meter. If you don't have a meter then the next sign of an incorrect pot will be that the potentiometer gets hot.
420-magazine-mobile2005324674.jpg



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Lansky said:
Hi FF,

Maybe you can help me figure this out: I just put together my new LED lights. I got 8 CXB 3590 3500k, 4 COB on 1 driver 240/1400 version A and 4 COB on 1 driver 240/1400 Version B, 1 potentiometer 100k ohms, 2 voltmeter PZEM-61 showing amp and watt, wired on 16 AWG (no more than 7ft from LEDs to Drivers). When I plug both and turn the dimmers to max, the B version only shows 211W while the A version (without potentiometer) shows 240W. I can't figure out why I am losing 30W with the B version (with potentiometer). Any ideas??
:Namaste:
Click to expand...

You mention you are using the HLG 240/1400. That's an available 179v. If you're using 36v chips you'll have more than 35v available (extra) on your driver. This is an inefficient set-up.
The HLG 185-1400 runs 4 chips perfectly with only 0.6 volts left lingering.
You may want to try running 5 x 36v chips on your driver to use up that extra space. If you are indeed using 36v chips.


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JimmyJames905 said:
You mention you are using the HLG 240/1400. That's an available 179v. If you're using 36v chips you'll have more than 35v available (extra) on your driver. This is an inefficient set-up.
The HLG 185-1400 runs 4 chips perfectly with only 0.6 volts left lingering.
You may want to try running 5 x 36v chips on your driver to use up that extra space. If you are indeed using 36v chips.

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Click to expand...


Hi JJ, Thanks for your help! I suspect the potentiometer is damaged, I pressed too much on it when installing it inside the pep box, I think I flattened it lol. I will do as you suggest and check the wattage on open circuit and let you know. I ordered another one anyway just in case.

Yes I am running 36V. The reason of my inefficient setup is that I originally had 5 cob with a 240-1400A, then I upgraded with 3 more COB and a 240-1400B to fit a 2X4 tent. I wanted to leave some room in case I decide to increase to 10 COB in the future. My mistake is to keep adding instead of planning ahead and be done :)
 
Lansky said:
Hi FF,

Maybe you can help me figure this out: I just put together my new LED lights. I got 8 CXB 3590 3500k, 4 COB on 1 driver 240/1400 version A and 4 COB on 1 driver 240/1400 Version B, 1 potentiometer 100k ohms, 2 voltmeter PZEM-61 showing amp and watt, wired on 16 AWG (no more than 7ft from LEDs to Drivers). When I plug both and turn the dimmers to max, the B version only shows 211W while the A version (without potentiometer) shows 240W. I can't figure out why I am losing 30W with the B version (with potentiometer). Any ideas??
:Namaste:
Click to expand...
Did you test your 100k ohm pot? I have 60% of them come in at 85k ohms. I have to test them and use the ones that are at least 97k.
Also. Disconect 1 of the wires from the 100k pot then turn the array on and read your max wattage. With 1 wire disconected from the pot it will tell the driver to go 100%. If you do that and see now you have higher wattage you know your 100k ohm pot is junk.

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Lansky said:
Hi JJ, Thanks for your help! I suspect the potentiometer is damaged, I pressed too much on it when installing it inside the pep box, I think I flattened it lol. I will do as you suggest and check the wattage on open circuit and let you know. I ordered another one anyway just in case.

Yes I am running 36V. The reason of my inefficient setup is that I originally had 5 cob with a 240-1400A, then I upgraded with 3 more COB and a 240-1400B to fit a 2X4 tent. I wanted to leave some room in case I decide to increase to 10 COB in the future. My mistake is to keep adding instead of planning ahead and be done :)
Click to expand...
Its not inefficient. Maybe 1% less efficient then if your driver only had 5 extra volts available. Not a big enough difference to mention.

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