I just reviewed this whole thread. I can understand the drive to get the most out of your grow, but keep it simple, especially for you first few grows. Here's some notes I made as I read through the thread:
Light: Vander 600W LED Grow Light
Power Consumption：1A120VAC/0.5A240VAC
These lights are actually only 100W-120W, so you have 200 - 240 watts of LED lighting in your tent. Notice that they never state the actual intensity of the light, either in lumens or as a PAR value. The lights very likely do not use top shelf electronics, and are probably 75-80% efficient. That means only 75 - 92W makes it to the LEDs which are not the best either, giving you the light output of about a 50-60W top pf thie line light. Essentially you have about 1/2 the recommended light you need in your tent. It's good to see that you rectified this later in your grow with the Quantum Board/Meanwell driver. I wouldn't toss those Vander's. You can use them for seedlings and veg, or to supplement the light during flowering. The red you need for sunset/sunrise may not be available from your Mars light. Specific wavelengths are required. Rapid LED has pucks designed by gromau5 for this purpose. Check out his YouTube channel for more information than you really want to know about lights.
Temperature and humidity are linked. Every 10°C (18°F) rise in temperature doubles the water carrying capacity of air. That means if you heat air at an RH of 60, and temperature of 20°C (68°F) to 30°C (86°F) the RH will drop to 30. This is why an hour or two after the lights go out your humidity peaks, then falls off as the fans exchange the air in the tent.
The carbon filter is not needed until the plants start to give off an odor. Using it now just uses it up without any benefit.
Do you mix up a batch of nutrients that will last from a few days to a week? General Hydroponics recommends that nutrients not be mixed more than a week in advance. I'd follow this for Canna nutrients as well. I mix from one up to 18l at a time depending on the stage of growth. I diluted some pH up and pH down to 10% for the lower volumes of nutrient solutions. This helps prevent overshooting your marks. It takes no more than ten drops of pH up or down to adjust my nutrient solutions to where I want them. I only check and adjust the pH of my solutions when I mix them. If you don't aerate your solutions the pH will not vary significantly. With The General Hydroponics' Flora Trio I set the pH to 5.8 from seed to flip, 6.0 during the flip, 6.2 until flush when I go back to 5.8. Check the documentation for the Canna nutrients to see what they recommend.
Measuring PPM is not needed for drain-to-waste systems like coco. This is a measurement critical to systems such as DWC where the same solution is used for up to a week. Your PPM will be where it needs to be for the concentration of nutrients in use. I've only measured the PPM of my nutrient solutions once, and that was to answer a question from a member. I use my TDS/EC pent to check the membrane of my RO monthly - that's all.
Coco is a drain-to-waste hydroponics system. After the third set of leaves appear 2-3 feeds per day are better than one. I feed twice per day, 20 min after lights on, and 100 min before lights out. I set up an automatic watering system for the timing.
There's a lot to learn, so I recommend you keep it as simple as possible for the first few grows. Plan your grow. The only time you should make a change during your grow is when your plants complain. Only use nutrients from one manufacturer, as they are designed to work together. Don't add CO2. See what a grow without it does first so that you can compare what the addition of CO2 does for your plants. CO2 is only effective under strong lights during the flowering stage. Make as few changes from grow to grow as possible, so you can see what the changes do for your plants.
I'll take another look in a day or so. Despite what I've said above , I ask that you don't make any changes until then. Give your plants a chance to acclimate themselves to your current growing conditions, so we can see how they really are doing.
thanks for the response and taking the time to read, im not sure where you got up to reading but a couple things il address quickly that from your answers are not applicable now anyway..
so the vanders are gone. i returned them beginning of the week, when i brought i got them under assumption they were 1500w, (not sure if that is in the early part of the journal cant remember), they actually sent the 600w, i thought to try them a while, 60day returns..
after buying the first qb288 3500k i told the supplier i wanted to return and i purchased 2x qb288x2 one in 3000k 301b and one in 3500k, 240w each
the mars has the infared and dual spectrum switches.
i currently have the 3500k single board and a 3000k in with the royal haze autos and the critical, 360w total, i currently have had the 2 gas in the smaller tent 50/50/100 with the mars 240w and another cheap 600w led that came with a tent kit, for the extra space for the royal haze as they needed it now lol
once i have my flower tent finished, i will use the single qb288 3500k and 1 double qb288 board 3000k in there with the mars and 600w led as supplements, the 50/50 will be a mother/prop tent, i will either get a 60w cobb 3500k or a t5 light to go in there, thinking the t5 setup would be better? that is further down the line atm tho, and the 3500k double qb288 will stay in the 120/60/150 as veg. 240w in there, if it needs a supp later on il add.
with regards the nutes and ppms of feed, i never really started the canna, ive been using the growth tech ionic coco grow and now bloom, i have the growth tech pk 14/15 also but havent started that yet. i read cultivators how to coco feed early on, so learnt to use the ppm to mix up feed like that, seems simple enough that way, i already had a tds/ec meter from my playing around with tap water previous to this hobby. i have generally been mixing up my feed a couple to 8 hours before giving, and ph’ng just before, i use syringes with fine needles, and tiniest dip into adjuster and usually 2-3 dips, i found using drops it is too potent, so i adjust with less than a drop a time now, uses less adjuster this way. the last week i have mixed up the feed in 10l batches, as theyre taking more water, and it lasts 2/3 days before mixing more.
so regards the co2, under the quantum boards are rhey better? the autos are coming into flower, 6 weeks above ground tomorrow.
the environment has actually been spot on for a couple weeks now, happy with temp and rh both lights on and off.
only point im stuck at now was that the rh2 had a yellower colour so do i up ppm, or flush excess salts more regular with run off(a process i started yesterday as i had not seen any run off for a few days and was led to believe the salt build up was causing nut lockout and therefore the yellower colour),
thanks again salt!
i think its pretty good if i may say so myself..
i have been lazy to finish it for a while, but as with all women in our lives they demanded i got on with the job and gave them their space. i could have done none of that training with the 2 gas in the 50/50 nor the critical i with the rh, she was being shaded more each day lol
