Exceptionally High FECO Yields

InTheShed said:
Sometimes autos are faster for a larger yield than a photo run for the same time period. Sometimes not. They can be fickle!
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When you get a minute ? about LST. You told me previously that I can wait until the plant is tall enough to tie it to the side of the container. I use 1 gallon containers for early veg and bump to 5 gallon for the rest of the time. Do I wait until in the 5 gallon pot to pull her over, or do I begin LST in the 1 gallon? Just was thinking it might be trickier to up pot a plant that has been in mechanical restraint.
 
A huge Thank You going out to our friend @Preston9mm and his simple jiffy cup idea. I have 4 new Monster clones under the domes he inspired and this is Golden compared to my Tupperware forays. @Skybound has taken the "P-Caps" to new highs. As they say "The Sky is the limit". My wife is still wanting mention for her idea with the jiffy stand.
Thanks guys
edit; maybe Sky can put up a picture? :love:
 
Maritimer said:
A huge Thank You going out to our friend @Preston9mm and his simple jiffy cup idea. I have 4 new Monster clones under the domes he inspired and this is Golden compared to my Tupperware forays. @Skybound has taken the "P-Caps" to new highs. As they say "The Sky is the limit". My wife is still wanting mention for her idea with the jiffy stand.
Thanks guys
edit; maybe Sky can put up a picture? :love:
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IDK what you mean by "P caps"?
 
Maritimer said:
When you get a minute ? about LST. You told me previously that I can wait until the plant is tall enough to tie it to the side of the container. I use 1 gallon containers for early veg and bump to 5 gallon for the rest of the time. Do I wait until in the 5 gallon pot to pull her over, or do I begin LST in the 1 gallon? Just was thinking it might be trickier to up pot a plant that has been in mechanical restraint.
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Autos should go directly into their final home, but you can certainly train photos in the 1 gallon pots, and the untie them when you upcan and re-tie them to the new pot.

I have a plant getting that exact treatment now:
20200113_082917 GT2.jpg

20200113_082917 GT2.jpg

  • Media owner InTheShed
  • Date added
Golden Tiger 2 day 31

In terms of the Alaskan Purple, check with @Preston9mm as he has grown a few. Second shout in 2 hours :).
 
InTheShed said:
Autos should go directly into their final home, but you can certainly train photos in the 1 gallon pots, and the untie them when you upcan and re-tie them to the new pot.

I have a plant getting that exact treatment now:
20200113_082917 GT2.jpg

20200113_082917 GT2.jpg

  • Media owner InTheShed
  • Date added
Golden Tiger 2 day 31

In terms of the Alaskan Purple, check with @Preston9mm as he has grown a few. Second shout in 2 hours :).
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Awesome picture. Gives me ideas with how your using the stakes strapped across the container, then restraining the plant farther out from the stem. Clever notions, to go with our potions. I just thought of that. LOL
Thanks Shed
 
Maritimer said:
This is a trip. I was walking the dog explaining to him I now know how Rick Simpson felt when he thought he discovered a cure for cancer only to find out nobody wanted to hear about it. I’m jumping up and down here saying we can greatly improve our FECO yields following Dr. Caplans experiment thereby greatly lowering patient costs and I get the feeling folks think I have a few loose screws. I need to get this info to a well-known member for discussion and greater potential exposure. This could help a lot of people find affordable options. SweetSue or another articulate person that could run this up the ladder of attention.
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Send me a link to the article you read about this I'm very interested. I use all my hermies for rso and I've never heard of this tequinique
 
links might get me in trouble. google Kaplan
lmk if you have trouble
 
IMG_20200112_202740348_HDR.jpg


The green ring conjoins a 20oz Solo cup to a 9oz Solo cup and the blue thing is just a holder for the 9oz Solo. It also has 10mm of a riser just above the wide base that was put there to aid in drainage, but when used for cloning, I find that it keeps the cup a few mm above that cardboard which only passes on a small portion of the heat that my heat mat creates. In the pic, you can see I'm using a piece of bath towel and a piece of cardboard to dissipate some of the heat, but the blue cup holder works great for that. Now I have a few individualized clone domes that holds good RH for days or longer.

Edit - HERE are the 3D files if anyone has a 3D printer.
 
slipnfall97 said:
K I have a couple hermies I'm gonna make oil with gonna c if it works
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Ahoy,
The application of controlled drought has been proven scientifically to increase cannabinoid production of both THC and CBD. The purpose of this thread was, and is, to spread awareness of this fact. The Kaplan thesis provides us sophisticated laboratory testing and statistically sound proof. What I have done is simply duplication of the Doctor's findings. If you drought stress a cannabis plant she will produce more cannabinoids without harming yields. You can't just make her thirsty though, you need to measure it and stuff. Read his work and if you have questions about it, just ask.
 
LOL Thanks Brian,
Was just going thru some academia looking for any research on trichome ripeness and thought of you, our new science officer. Who says the best trike ripeness is when? I don't see any scientist publishing anything about trichome ripeness and psychoactive qualities. I saw a video with some French sounding guy talking about hand press hash making with a bottle rolling across the resin. In this video he says best resin is 80% or so amber trichomes. Who in science says when the stuff is most ripe? I find anecdotal references plenty, but not the folks in lab coats. I like reading those kind of studies while I try and patiently watch grass grow. If you or anyone finds a reference please give me a heads up. Thanks
 
Straw Hat Notes; re meja
In some light conversation with a friend well versed in phytohormones we have been looking at the rise in ABA being introduced prior to the antagonization of JA pathways. We have seen that the foliar application of ester MeJA has immediate ramifications when introduced mid flower. Taming and buffering of this trigger is a valuable tool we hope to harness thru up regulated quantities of abscisic acid introduced to the fertigation routine. Although cannabis up regulation speeds are yet to be elucidated we anticipate genus averages will suffice. Said differently, the aba we put in the nute solution will in a matter of hours be completely up regulated throughout the cultivar.

The lack of centrifugal equipment is hampering our local aba collection efforts. Any donation of raw ABA will speed this along and of course would be appreciated.
Edit; just remembered our friends at Cornell University can source ABA at $250 per gram. I think they could squeeze a better price with my VA discount. LOL
 
Maritimer said:
Who says the best trike ripeness is when?
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Maritimer said:
French sounding guy talking about hand press hash
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That would be Frenchy Cannoli, probably one of the most experienced hash makers on the planet. I've seen all his output and remember him saying they scoped trichs after each wash to determine which trichs have fallen off the soonest while producing the most and blondest, or lightest colored output on wash #1, or the first shake of the tree as he makes that amusing analogy.

This is all on the assumption that the first pass is the best, fullest melt hash. There is apparently a consensus on the "full melt" term and what it looks and feels like, although I'm not experienced myself.

The speriment to do, perhaps to answer your question more directly, is to lab test and consume some upper, more amber bud and compare with lower and less amber bud.
 
Here is a cannabis testing lab that states what most of us have considered true:

"Trichome hairs will initially appear clear, then turn milky, and eventually brown or amber. Milky trichomes typically correspond to the THC production peak. "
Source
 
InTheShed said:
Here is a cannabis testing lab that states what most of us have considered true:

"Trichome hairs will initially appear clear, then turn milky, and eventually brown or amber. Milky trichomes typically correspond to the THC production peak. "
Source
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Yeah I've been viewing tric's on medically issued and tested strains and very VERY rarely have I ever been able to observe a lot of Amber trichomes. I've been believing to wait until 10-30 % Amber to harvest but I think I'll stick with under %5 for future harvests . Haven't been pleased with the potency of my efforts so it can't hurt ?
 
Northern Hydro said:
Yeah I've been viewing tric's on medically issued and tested strains and very VERY rarely have I ever been able to observe a lot of Amber trichomes. I've been believing to wait until 10-30 % Amber to harvest but I think I'll stick with under %5 for future harvests . Haven't been pleased with the potency of my efforts so it can't hurt ?
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When the trichomes turn amber, not only do the buds have less total THC, they have an increase in CBN, which is what THC degrades into when the trichomes amber. CBN is the cannabinoid associated with couch lock and heavy body stone. If that's the effect you're looking for then amber is what you'd want when you harvest. If it's not, then harvest with the most cloudy for peak THC.
 
This statement is provided by a French guy (according to Brian an authority).
from 38 minute "Pressing Lost Art" video.

"The color of resin is not really enough indication of the ripeness. To know how good a resin is you really need to press and explode the membranes, and make a mass of the resin."

"Most people think that ripe resin on the plant is milky, and beginning of amber is degradation. This is absolutely not true. The plant produces the resin produces THC at 80% plus amberness in its head. So there really is a misinformation and a misunderstanding."

just sayin :bongrip:
 
Nothing like anecdote over lab tests!
 
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