DrZiggy's 1st Journal Featuring High Brix - LEDs & Cool Strains

SweetSue said:
Now Doc, I asked a simple question, hoping for a helpful response. In my kindest voice may I suggest that the attitude didn't help. I'll just google it.
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In my kindest voice:

You've got exactly one grow under your belt. One.

You come at me all the time with crap like, "What about the synthetics? Has anyone ever researched what they do to the soil?" Or, "Lower humidity and turn up the heat to kill spider mites," you gave that advice to someone on your thread. Luckily I was there to straighten both of you out before the poor guy tried it.

The fact that you even have to ask "Is there any science behind the wet/dry cycle" It seems like it's tradition, not science?" shows that you have no idea what you're talking about.

1. How the hell would you know if there was science or not? You didn't even know how to deal with spider mites and had no idea what "synthetics" are or were. Turns out you were using them yourself without realizing it. But that didn't stop you from coming at me as if I need to validate the science behind my methods to a person like you, with one grow in your resume. Your knowledge of the science is so poor, you had to ask the question.

2. If you truly want to learn the "science" of plant physiology and how they respond to things, by all means do so. But since you admittedly know nothing on the topic, wouldn't it be prudent to not suggest that my methods aren't scientific?

3. What do you base your uninformed opinion on? You have no experience at all! You have one grow. You have gnats.

I love answering questions. I do it a lot. But if ever want me to answer one of yours again, stop projecting your woefully narrow and poor understanding of cannabis cultivation onto me by suggesting many times things that are false regarding what I do, my products and my methods.

That's how we met, is it not? Someone was saying crap on your thread about some company in Australia and ASSuming that company was me. WRONG. And you took that and ran with it to the point of saying my kit was "synthetics." Bullshit. You spouted off with false authority on something you were totally ignorant of.

And there you go again, demanding "studies" to prove that your notion that wet/dry cycles are tradition and not science.

So, please don't lecture me about attitude. I get really sick and tired of being misrepresented by you. I don't appreciate your assumptions that something I'm doing is based on tradition, and not science, as if you are able to discern either.

The reason I had "attitude" is because of what you said. If you had let it lie, I wouldn't have made this post....but you had to lecture me about my attitude and I'm supposed to excuse and tolerate yours?
 
Just trying to learn Doc. Seriously. I actually found some interesting stuff, so thanks.
 
pics..
Test Plants

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SWICK#1

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Impressive. Looking forward to it.

Ziggy, when you do a soak, how do you know how much volume to mix up? I can't find any clear instructions for that. I'm talking about water volume. Has using the small azalea pots changed your approach at all? I only have the five pots and I'm trying to figure out how to make it work. Can you offer me any pointers? Your pictures in the early pages were somewhat helpful, but no one covers the volume question. I know things don't have to be absolutely precise, but I'm feeling a bit lost here. Help!
 
DrZiggy said:
Sue, the kit instructions say to mix up 1 oz of drench for 6 plants in 7 gallon pots.
Scrubby explained it very well.
i make up a batch and gauge the volume of drench to use based on similar stuff to scrubby post :)
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These are Doc's instructions:

"All drenches are mixed at 1/2 ounce per 6 plants(30 sq. feet of garden space for those in raised beds) Applications up to 1.5 oz can be applied without harm, but very few plants require this much. Heavy feeders might try .75 oz before mixing stronger.

Another practice some container growers are finding helpful is to include 1/4 strength Transplant with every watering. "


So it's really 1 oz per 6 plants? How much water is that oz added to? I don't see water volume covered at all. My confusion is this: if I know how much drench I need for each of these small pots and I dilute it to soak, don't I also dilute the application rates? I'm not sure that came out right. Do you see where I'm going with this? I feel like there was something I missed in the instructions.
 
SweetSue said:
So it's really 1 oz per 6 plants? How much water is that oz added to?
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It is for all 6 plants. The amount of water isn't set because different circumstances will require different amounts of water. You have to learn, guess, or know from experience, how much water your plants will need for a thorough soak.
 
Major PITA said:
It is for all 6 plants. The amount of water isn't set because different circumstances will require different amounts of water. You have to learn, guess, or know from experience, how much water your plants will need for a thorough soak.
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Thank you Major. That was actually exactly what I needed to hear. :blushsmile: That means I'll be using a ridiculously small amount of drench then, doesn't it? :laughtwo: I'll be able to grow a lot of plants with the kit I got. That appeals to my frugal side. It makes the kit a very affordable resource. Always a good thing. :Love:
 
SweetSue said:
Thank you Major. That was actually exactly what I needed to hear. :blushsmile: That means I'll be using a ridiculously small amount of drench then, doesn't it? :laughtwo: I'll be able to grow a lot of plants with the kit I got. That appeals to my frugal side. It makes the kit a very affordable resource. Always a good thing. :Love:
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Yes - that's why I made that spreadsheet. I needed something to give me a ballpark quantity. Luckily, none of it is critical.
One other thing that helped me in figuring out amounts is remembering we are feeding the soil. Doc's kit makes roughly 37.5 true gallons of soil. But when we use nursery pots (measured in trade gallons), being smaller, it comes out to about 50 "trade" gallons. I use that number when figuring out how much to use. I started with a single plant in a 1 gal. pot. Let me tell you, the amounts used for drenching were tiny - especially the Tea.

These are my guesses on how to use the drenches in the kit. As a first time user, I'd go with those with more experience. But again, none of it is critical. Best of luck!
 
Major PITA said:
Yes - that's why I made that spreadsheet. I needed something to give me a ballpark quantity. Luckily, none of it is critical.
One other thing that helped me in figuring out amounts is remembering we are feeding the soil. Doc's kit makes roughly 37.5 true gallons of soil. But when we use nursery pots (measured in trade gallons), being smaller, it comes out to about 50 "trade" gallons. I use that number when figuring out how much to use. I started with a single plant in a 1 gal. pot. Let me tell you, the amounts used for drenching were tiny - especially the Tea.

These are my guesses on how to use the drenches in the kit. As a first time user, I'd go with those with more experience. But again, none of it is critical. Best of luck!
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Thanks Major. I keep reminding myself that it's not a critical issue unless you go overboard. With LOS I take a laid-back approach, but that soil mix is more forgiving, at least that's my impression. I could do nothing more than water that one and it will still do well. The HB is more of an adventure in gardening, but the rule of regularly scheduled minimal inputs still applies.

It's just getting the toes wet Major. Know what I mean?
 
SweetSue said:
Thanks Major. I keep reminding myself that it's not a critical issue unless you go overboard. With LOS I take a laid-back approach, but that soil mix is more forgiving, at least that's my impression. I could do nothing more than water that one and it will still do well. The HB is more of an adventure in gardening, but the rule of regularly scheduled minimal inputs still applies.

It's just getting the toes wet Major. Know what I mean?
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Morning Sweetsue....Did I hear you right ,when you said your LOS is easier to look after than your H.B.(KIT) soil is? I beg to differ here Sue....Doc's. gear and soil is just about the easiest and most reliable method iv'e tried in over 25yrs. and many, many failed crops of this and that soil mixes. It's almost maintainance free for pete's sake. Don't you get lots of bugs with your LOS soil. I havn't seen ONE bug in my GR since I started using Doc's methods.I should add, as well Sue that when growing with Doc's. HB soil recepe ,there is NO question of the final product....it's always top,top shelf. Have a great day SS.
 
duggan said:
Morning Sweetsue....Did I hear you right ,when you said your LOS is easier to look after than your H.B.(KIT) soil is? I beg to differ here Sue....Doc's. gear and soil is just about the easiest and most reliable method iv'e tried in over 25yrs. and many, many failed crops of this and that soil mixes. It's almost maintainance free for pete's sake. Don't you get lots of bugs with your LOS soil. I havn't seen ONE bug in my GR since I started using Doc's methods.I should add, as well Sue that when growing with Doc's. HB soil recepe ,there is NO question of the final product....it's always top,top shelf. Have a great day SS.
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Agreed!
Basically, just add water.
Nothing to brew. Nothing to top/side-dress - at least until bloom. Then add some EWC and the kit's Recharge.
 
Doc Bud said:
In my kindest voice:

You've got exactly one grow under your belt. One.

You come at me all the time with crap like, "What about the synthetics? Has anyone ever researched what they do to the soil?" Or, "Lower humidity and turn up the heat to kill spider mites," you gave that advice to someone on your thread. Luckily I was there to straighten both of you out before the poor guy tried it.

The fact that you even have to ask "Is there any science behind the wet/dry cycle" It seems like it's tradition, not science?" shows that you have no idea what you're talking about.

1. How the hell would you know if there was science or not? You didn't even know how to deal with spider mites and had no idea what "synthetics" are or were. Turns out you were using them yourself without realizing it. But that didn't stop you from coming at me as if I need to validate the science behind my methods to a person like you, with one grow in your resume. Your knowledge of the science is so poor, you had to ask the question.

2. If you truly want to learn the "science" of plant physiology and how they respond to things, by all means do so. But since you admittedly know nothing on the topic, wouldn't it be prudent to not suggest that my methods aren't scientific?

3. What do you base your uninformed opinion on? You have no experience at all! You have one grow. You have gnats.

I love answering questions. I do it a lot. But if ever want me to answer one of yours again, stop projecting your woefully narrow and poor understanding of cannabis cultivation onto me by suggesting many times things that are false regarding what I do, my products and my methods.

That's how we met, is it not? Someone was saying crap on your thread about some company in Australia and ASSuming that company was me. WRONG. And you took that and ran with it to the point of saying my kit was "synthetics." Bullshit. You spouted off with false authority on something you were totally ignorant of.

And there you go again, demanding "studies" to prove that your notion that wet/dry cycles are tradition and not science.

So, please don't lecture me about attitude. I get really sick and tired of being misrepresented by you. I don't appreciate your assumptions that something I'm doing is based on tradition, and not science, as if you are able to discern either.

The reason I had "attitude" is because of what you said. If you had let it lie, I wouldn't have made this post....but you had to lecture me about my attitude and I'm supposed to excuse and tolerate yours?
Click to expand...

Great post
 
duggan said:
Morning Sweetsue....Did I hear you right ,when you said your LOS is easier to look after than your H.B.(KIT) soil is? I beg to differ here Sue....Doc's. gear and soil is just about the easiest and most reliable method iv'e tried in over 25yrs. and many, many failed crops of this and that soil mixes. It's almost maintainance free for pete's sake. Don't you get lots of bugs with your LOS soil. I havn't seen ONE bug in my GR since I started using Doc's methods.I should add, as well Sue that when growing with Doc's. HB soil recepe ,there is NO question of the final product....it's always top,top shelf. Have a great day SS.
Click to expand...

That's becoming clearer to me every day Duggan. As I get ready to begin and start looking closer I get more excited to see the similarities and differences between the soils. The more I study in preparation to putting the kit into play the more I see the science behind it. There was never any doubt about the consistent quality Duggs, but I got some fairly decent quality out of a water-only grow (for the most part) with my no-till LOS. it's fairly maintenance free too and it grows stronger every cycle, indefinitely. That means the soil I pot up can be the last time I build soil until I choose to expand. You have to admit, top quality product from a pot you only do minimal maintenance on - I had to try it, and I haven't regretted it one bit.

Once a week I grind some malted barley grain to a powder and add it, along with some reconstituted kelp meal, to some water and let it sit for four hours. Then I add some fulvic acid, aloe vera juice and Agsil, stir it up and drench the pots. It doesn't even have to be a deep drench. The soil manages distribution.

Once a week I add some coconut water, aloe vera juice and some Agsil to water and drench the pots. If I've a mind, a kelp foliar once a week goes a long way to increasing the brix levels.

That's it Duggan. Essentially, I build an awesome soil, plant a seed, give it lots of light and easy access to water and let 'er rip. No soaking unless I choose to, no transplanting to speak of. Plant, water, harvest, replant immediately and do it all over again. Indefinitely. Pretty easy.

Doesn't this sound similar to you all? These soil communities are more similar than it may appear. And after I've had a go at this intriguing kit I'll tell you which one was easier to run. I expect I'll be one of the lucky few to run both types side by side.

Gnats and organic matter are a match made in evolution. I could have controlled the gnats better. Eventually they'll go away. I'm serious about my tolerance for other earthlings, gnats included.

You have no idea how excited I really am Duggan. It's not a competition though. They're all plots of living earth I've accepted responsibility for. I'll run them together for a few years and see where it goes.

Ain't life grand?
 
SweetSue said:
That's becoming clearer to me every day Duggan. As I get ready to begin and start looking closer I get more excited to see the similarities and differences between the soils. The more I study in preparation to putting the kit into play the more I see the science behind it. There was never any doubt about the consistent quality Duggs, but I got some fairly decent quality out of a water-only grow (for the most part) with my no-till LOS. it's fairly maintenance free too and it grows stronger every cycle, indefinitely. That means the soil I pot up can be the last time I build soil until I choose to expand. You have to admit, top quality product from a pot you only do minimal maintenance on - I had to try it, and I haven't regretted it one bit.

Once a week I grind some malted barley grain to a powder and add it, along with some reconstituted kelp meal, to some water and let it sit for four hours. Then I add some fulvic acid, aloe vera juice and Agsil, stir it up and drench the pots. It doesn't even have to be a deep drench. The soil manages distribution.

Once a week I add some coconut water, aloe vera juice and some Agsil to water and drench the pots. If I've a mind, a kelp foliar once a week goes a long way to increasing the brix levels.

That's it Duggan. Essentially, I build an awesome soil, plant a seed, give it lots of light and easy access to water and let 'er rip. No soaking unless I choose to, no transplanting to speak of. Plant, water, harvest, replant immediately and do it all over again. Indefinitely. Pretty easy.

Doesn't this sound similar to you all? These soil communities are more similar than it may appear. And after I've had a go at this intriguing kit I'll tell you which one was easier to run. I expect I'll be one of the lucky few to run both types side by side.

Gnats and organic matter are a match made in evolution. I could have controlled the gnats better. Eventually they'll go away. I'm serious about my tolerance for other earthlings, gnats included.

You have no idea how excited I really am Duggan. It's not a competition though. They're all plots of living earth I've accepted responsibility for. I'll run them together for a few years and see where it goes.

Ain't life grand?
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I'm not one to get on anyone about their methods if it works for you and you're happy thats all that matters. With that said, the bold section sounds like more work not less along with a greater chance for inconsistent results than what we have to do with the kit...

Just saying :)

Have a great day all :passitleft:
 
Once a week I grind some malted barley grain to a powder and add it, along with some reconstituted kelp meal, to some water and let it sit for four hours. Then I add some fulvic acid, aloe vera juice and Agsil, stir it up and drench the pots. It doesn't even have to be a deep drench. The soil manages distribution.

Once a week I add some coconut water, aloe vera juice and some Agsil to water and drench the pots. If I've a mind, a kelp foliar once a week goes a long way to increasing the brix levels.
Click to expand...

That sounds simple enough.

Here's what a typical week looks like growing with the kit:

Once a week I put one ounce of a liquid into 1 quart of water and spray my plants. Once a week I put one ounce of one liquid and roughly 3 mils of another into a 5 gallon bucket and give a gallon to each of 5 plants.

You're grinding malted barley, adding kelp meal, letting it steep, adding fulvic acid, aloe vera and silica.....and the using coconut water, aloe vera and agsil again.

I use water.

I can see why you think yours is easier. You're working with 7 ingredients, a sprayer and a mortar and pestle, while I'm only working with 3 ingredients and a sprayer.
 
I went from using a total of 12 bottles all different feeding ratios. And I have to wait 15 mins between a and b with house and garden. I've grown for 17 years and I'd say 5 have been a larger scale and three it's been my job. Docs kit is the easiest method besides crap osmcote method I tried like 4 years ago it was easy but results were very sub par. Docs is about to be tested on my end and it looks superb
 
This picture was taken 2 minutes ago.
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That's on docs kit. Sorry for hijacking zig

One maybe two more days then choppy chop chop then wash (currently I'm washing this moment chocolate fondue) then hang then a 30+% test result
 
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