@AleX, reps for the link my friend, them pics in that thread are ones i seen on another site so thanks for links to info on this site, what i do know is their are 2 ways of making polyploids
method 1, you soak the seeds in a chemical you make from the roots of a certain plant, the word cochline comes in my head each time i think about it and your link possible gives the name so ill have a read, so thats the easy option, how ever the chemical is deadly even though its made from the roots of a plant, you soak say 50 seeds in the liquid for 24 hours then plant them, pretty much all will die but the ones that live will be polyploids,
method 2, this method ive only read about and i did try it a few times but had no luck at all, this method involves totally stripping the plant bare and just leave the tiny growth at the node, if you do this a couple of times its suppose to force the plant to turn polyploid,
so thats the 2 methods i know, when i researched this a few years back the site i was on had research on it and went into detail about which way to use it for crossing etc etc, it also showed pics similar to the ones in the link you provided and the pics had buds held up next to footballs and the buds where as fat or fatter than the football, the thc and cbn levels was also suppose to be 4 times gihher than the plant grown naturally,
now the background on it is this, scientist where experimenting with cannbis plants and produced these poly's using the soaking seed method, they had many clones growing and one of these clones was sneaked out and used for crossing and this was then used to produce some potent and heavy yielding plants.
basically your working with genetically modified plants, so one of the strains produced by crossing a poly with a regular plant or crosing a poly with a triployd was the G13 strain, plus some potent kush strain, ive got a list i came across with some strain names on it so ill find that and post the names,
but lets look at G13, it was created from the clone that was sneaked out of the lab, so if you look at the name G13 and use the numbers as letter of the alpha bet then G = genetically and 13 = M which = modified, so G13 was one of the originally strains created using this method, the true G13 strain was potent and yielded well but when other breeders got hold of the g13 strain they just grew a male and female and crossed it to make g13 seeds, how ever as these seeds was from regular looking plants they didnt have the crazy high thc levels of huge buds,
so the reason im interested is because of the results from the first cross made, these new seeds when grown should produce the crazy high thc level and decent sized buds, it wont produce the monster buds that the poly parent created as its crossed with another strain to make it more stable and make it grow like a regular cannbis plant, so its something ive mentioned before many times and is something ill work with possibly after this grow, my plans are to use best strain ive grown so far thats already potent and yields well and thats the ak47 x uk cherry cheese, id also like to cross a poly with a true uk cheese strain and also the sensi star strain, these strains are potent and yield well on their own but if i can get 4x more potent plants then that gives me the chance of producing something very potent as i could back cross with the poly and with the regular parent until im getting consitent results each time i plant a seed
so thats something for possibly the next grow and ill do that alongside my super male project, so have some reps for the info, i didnt know their was anything on this site about it, the site i read a couple of years ago must of been taken down as i cant find it anywhere but it showed test results and detailed pics with plant size and how the plant grew, so ill document it from start to finish when i get stuck into that project
@B A R, you will be fine doing that my friend, like i said this is the first time ive used 13 hours on and 11 off for flower so cant guarantee anything yet but so far this sensi star i got growing is not that far in flower and just looking at the pistils suggests the buds are going to be nice and fat, plus node spacing is much better as its not getting the crazy stretch, i know going from 24-0 to 12-12 gives more stretch then going from 18-6 to 12-12, stretch is ok as it gives you longer buds but if the nodes are to far apart then the buds wont link up and give you one huge bud.
using glr for veg gives you virtually no stretch when flipping 12-12, plus when you use glr for veg the plant is getting built up with flowering hormones like crazy, then when you do flip 12-12 the plant starts flowering very quick, the best method for glr in flower is to use deminishing light routine, ive not tried this yet as i think gradually giving the plants more dark each week is only going to make you reach harvest quicker but this means less yield as the plant has less growing time,
the other option would be to go from a veg schedule say 18-6 then every 7 days drop the light hours by 1 or 2 hours until you can see the plant starting to flower, then you could stick with that schedule or keep going until your at 12-12.
please dont think im saying 13on and 11off is the best flowering schedule, this is the first time ive tried it but to me it makes sense, outdoor plants dont get 12-12 from start of flower till harvest so plants will flower with a shorter dark period, so what im thinking is if the plant has more lights on hours per day then it will allow the plant moer time to grow and should produce bigger yields, it will drag out the flowering period by a couple of days, or it might not, im guessing it will but until ive run a few grows with the schedule i cant say for sure, once ive harvested these ill put more sensi clones into flower and ill try 10on 14off, then i can compare all 3 results and will have a better idea of whats best,
but i think it makes perfect sense and should increase yield, after i try 140n 10off ill try deminishing light from veg to flower, so ill go from 17-7 and drop it by 1 hour of light every 2 weeks, this will show me when plants start flowering then when i see signs of flower ill stop lowering the daylight hours as quick and just drop by 1 hour every 3 or 4 weeks, it might end badly or it might increase yield anad bud size, for now all i can say is that my sensi star is producing a lot more pistils and even though their is no actual bud formation the actual area the pistils cover is nearly as big as the buds i harvested, so ill keep you updated on the results i get, im here to learn and test things, if i come across something that benefits others then ill document it and let you know what i think,
but i dont want growers thinking im some expert using some secret grow methods, all im doing is trying some experiments to see what works and what dont, so i dont want growers blaming me for screwing their crop up or slagging me off for trying things growers would never try, its my grow and i want to experiment, if my sensi star was starting to flower slow or producing small pistils and huge node spacing then id tell you all that thats the results im getting, but so far im very happy with the results, ive grown my clone only sensi star strain for 5 or 6 grows now so i know how it grows and know if its improved or not.
so please only try it if you are ok trying, im not trying to get growers to change something that already works, 12-12 works and indoor plants reach harvest quicker than outdoor plants, so all im thinking is 12-12 is making them flower and mature quicker where as 13-11 might drag out the flowering period and allow for more growth during flower
j/k alwaus tons of stuff to read tho that's for sure 
I have just spent my entire Sat. reading your journal Sir..
and Cronic is right!!! I have to go get a band-aid for my bleeding brain..... You Sir are amazing.....
Im gonna do this schedule on my nine when they hit flower. The Flux ill leave as norm flower at 12/12 as then we have a baseline for fluxing! Also I haven't not messed with a plants cycle for a while lol.
