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- #181
Yep. 3.8 cu feet. I don't know how much it weighs....just a big cube.
Doc Bud's High Brix - Strawberry Cough - Pineapple Express
- Thread starter Doc Bud
- Start date
Yep. 3.8 cu feet. I don't know how much it weighs....just a big cube.
Doc
I must be a little slow this week. I read back and I still can't figure out what the broadcast things you are going to order and the nutes?
My current grow is starting to fade just a bit. The explosive growth has stopped of course as it should approaching the end of the 4th week of flower today. And that shiny rich dark green healthy look is starting to fade a bit also.
Although the plants are much larger, the buds seem to be a little smaller than past grows.
Brix readings are still holding at 5 or 6.
Everything was added into the soil before planting this time as compared to the last grow where I was top dressing the minerals etc as I was going along. Do you think their is still a need to top dress with more minerals or nutes?
I am watering twice a week, once with plain water and once with Molasses, Mycomadness, Superfood tab, Snowstorm Ultra, and the last feeding also contained Dr Earth Bud n Bloom.
Also I noticed you got some BPN that you mentioned you are going to do a side by side with, are you going to toss in a few OC+ plants also for comparison?
I must be a little slow this week. I read back and I still can't figure out what the broadcast things you are going to order and the nutes?
My current grow is starting to fade just a bit. The explosive growth has stopped of course as it should approaching the end of the 4th week of flower today. And that shiny rich dark green healthy look is starting to fade a bit also.
Although the plants are much larger, the buds seem to be a little smaller than past grows.
Brix readings are still holding at 5 or 6.
Everything was added into the soil before planting this time as compared to the last grow where I was top dressing the minerals etc as I was going along. Do you think their is still a need to top dress with more minerals or nutes?
I am watering twice a week, once with plain water and once with Molasses, Mycomadness, Superfood tab, Snowstorm Ultra, and the last feeding also contained Dr Earth Bud n Bloom.
Also I noticed you got some BPN that you mentioned you are going to do a side by side with, are you going to toss in a few OC+ plants also for comparison?
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- #183
OK.....lot's of good questions.
The broadcast I'm ordering is this (from the soil report on ProMIx HP:
This is what they recommend per 1000 sq ft!
So, I'll be consulting and modifying the amount to add to each bale of ProMix.What happens---and this is an educated guess, I could be wrong----is that we start of with medium/high brix due to the minerals and the initial charge or organic material.
Then....we proceed to fuck it up by adding stuff. Too much K! It's in potassium and probably everything you're feeding, especially the snowstorm.
Too much sugar.....this is like fast food to the microbes. It's much better to let the plant supply the sugar, not Grandma's molasses.
So, what I've done this time is not use molasses, really work at keeping K levels down, and I top dressed with rock n Chicken.
Also, keep in mind that you want that color fade in the major fan leaves, right around week 4 of bloom.
Another factor is the use of too many microbes. They gobble up all the nutrition.
What we're doing here is trailblazing. This hasn't been done with our particular crop yet. I'm not sure it's been done in containers...probably has, I just don't know about it and can't seem to find any info on the web. So I'm "inventing" this as we go along.
In your situation, I'd feed something with very low potassium, slow release nitrogen and a modest amount of P. I'd keep the tea's down, use larger containers, and be patient. A good fert is Biosol Forte 7-2-1. Slow release nitrogen, no salts. Very good. It's sold as John and Bob's "Nourish," in most nurseries.
Another good option is to go to the farm supply store and get some calcium nitrate. It will green up AND increase calcium.
I'm going to do a comparison with the BPN. Since folks were so nice as to send them to me free, I'm going to use them and try to do it right!
On edit:
I just looked up superfood tabs and Dr. Earth Bud n Bloom. You're just maxing out the K....way too much. On top of that, you're also adding so many microbes they're eating up all the soil.
Don't worry, when the microbes die off, all that nutrition will be released again. Your plants should green up in a week or so. In the meantime, stop adding so much fertlizer! Just top dress with something like Biosol Forte, or even cottonseed meal, and maybe some worm casting. Do NOT use compost, humus, kelp or anything else that is loaded with K.
But your plants will improve, and the buds will grow!
What are you foliar feeding?
HighWaterMark
Well-Known Member
What's BPN?
- Thread starter
- #185
Someone was nice enough to give me Blue Planet Nutrients.
They are a sponsor on the website.....sooooo....I thought I would do my best to make their products look good. They are salt based ferts, not unlike GH hydro as far as being a 3 part formula, Grow, Micro, Bloom.
James 1st
New Member
Cant wait to see the results.
BigIrishDoode
Fallen Cannabis Warrior
wel im interested in the side by side for sure! gonna be sweet to follow doc, you are a pioneer!
Doc,
I have been using Stump Tea for 2 foliars then 2 Gianormous the 2 more Stump Tea.
So I see even more K is being used with the Gianormous.
I was only going to give them one more Stump Tea and the stop foilar any way since week 5 is approaching.
Ahhhhhh I yearn for the good ole days of OC+ and water.
I have been using Stump Tea for 2 foliars then 2 Gianormous the 2 more Stump Tea.
So I see even more K is being used with the Gianormous.
I was only going to give them one more Stump Tea and the stop foilar any way since week 5 is approaching.
Ahhhhhh I yearn for the good ole days of OC+ and water.
- Thread starter
- #189
Hah! I know what you mean! However, I assure you the organic buds taste better, and the high brix better still.
At this point, your grow is about to get easier! Use the tea in a weaker form, once a week. Top dress as discussed above, and relax!
I have decided to use my cooked soil in the bottom half of the pot and run my OC+ mixed soil as the top half. Trailblazing is after all the most fun part of growing. I am going to test this mix soon with some Coleus plants and may do a first run this year with the original OC+ soil mix for my seed run. I don't want any surprise happening with my somewhat expensive and hard to get seeds.
- Thread starter
- #191
Knock yourself out!
BigIrishDoode
Fallen Cannabis Warrior
doc, question: i have a bunch of diatomaceous earth i know its full of trace minerals, would this be useful mixed in my soil whats your take on this?
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- #193
I have a product that is Montromorillianite, a type of DE. It differs from the DE you put in your swimming pool filter, but it's still DE.
It is an excellent source of micro's....but it's pretty high in potassium.
You guys may have noticed I've been doing soil reports. 60 bucks a pop....I'm on number 4 now. Each report has come back saying "too high in potassium." Even the ProMix, which has zero nutrient charge, was too high in potassium, but with the amendments, could be brought into spec.
So, if you want a standard organic grow, your product---depending on what it is---could be an excellent source of micro's. However, if you want High Brix, you've got to keep potassium levels in check.
What soil are you using? Ferts? Teas?
BigIrishDoode
Fallen Cannabis Warrior
heres what i have going
its called earth grow, it very peaty, supposed to be organic, came from homey d,45-50%
and pearlite,15%
worm gold with kelp and volcanic rock12-15 lbs
coco (rest of the volume)
epsoma garden traditions pelleted garden lime bout a cup
then i put 4 gallons water in a bucket
added 2 cups worm castings
4 tsp bushmaster microbe brew
5 ml dark matter humate tea (bpn)
10 ml bpn bio juice soil activator
10ml bpn farmers pride gro/micro/bloom 30ml total per 4 gallon bout 1/4 normal amount
1tsp,soil moist mycos
2 tbsp grandmas unsulphered molasses
bubble with 6 liters per min pure o2 till frothy head fills bucket
then i inoculate the soil mix and cook a week or two
i have some fresh clones in this mix and i noticed they are growing after only 24-36 hours, no noted shock or stall
]they just started moving fwd,
as for teas i dont know what to use i figured worm and humate (humic/fulvic rich) i plan to follow up with the full bpn 7 part line of organics, so i guess its really just an organic grow,with a hint of high brix as i learn from you how to build the real deal,the d.e. i have is food grade pure snow white in apperance
its called earth grow, it very peaty, supposed to be organic, came from homey d,45-50%
and pearlite,15%
worm gold with kelp and volcanic rock12-15 lbs
coco (rest of the volume)
epsoma garden traditions pelleted garden lime bout a cup
then i put 4 gallons water in a bucket
added 2 cups worm castings
4 tsp bushmaster microbe brew
5 ml dark matter humate tea (bpn)
10 ml bpn bio juice soil activator
10ml bpn farmers pride gro/micro/bloom 30ml total per 4 gallon bout 1/4 normal amount
1tsp,soil moist mycos
2 tbsp grandmas unsulphered molasses
bubble with 6 liters per min pure o2 till frothy head fills bucket
then i inoculate the soil mix and cook a week or two
i have some fresh clones in this mix and i noticed they are growing after only 24-36 hours, no noted shock or stall
]they just started moving fwd,
as for teas i dont know what to use i figured worm and humate (humic/fulvic rich) i plan to follow up with the full bpn 7 part line of organics, so i guess its really just an organic grow,with a hint of high brix as i learn from you how to build the real deal,the d.e. i have is food grade pure snow white in apperance
- Thread starter
- #195
sounds like you'll have a nice, solid, organic grow. It won't be high brix.....but that doesn't mean it won't be really nice!
HighWaterMark
Well-Known Member
I'm learning at a furious pitch thanks to you and the rest of the high-Brix nucleus here.
I have two questions. High Potassium levels seem to plague even the most simple growing mediums. My first question is this: It is the ratio (to Phosphate), rather than the absolute amount, that is critical? If the proper ratios are maintained, will Potassium be available without being toxic?
My second question is simply syntax, and before you get frustrated with me I desperately tried to answer it myself. I'm stuck on the word, "broadcast". Does it mean anything beyond the even dispersal of the given amendment(s) within the growth medium?
Thanks for reading.
I have two questions. High Potassium levels seem to plague even the most simple growing mediums. My first question is this: It is the ratio (to Phosphate), rather than the absolute amount, that is critical? If the proper ratios are maintained, will Potassium be available without being toxic?
My second question is simply syntax, and before you get frustrated with me I desperately tried to answer it myself. I'm stuck on the word, "broadcast". Does it mean anything beyond the even dispersal of the given amendment(s) within the growth medium?
Thanks for reading.
- Thread starter
- #198
Broadcast...as in broadcast spreader. It's a device used by farmers to throw seeds or pellets on a field. So, the "broadcast" I am having formulated is supposed to be broadcasted in late Fall, to get the field ready for Spring. I'll be duplicating that by cooking the soil, per my usual 30 days.
The levels of certain elements in the soil are importan in 2 aspects:
1.)The overall amount
2.)The ratio of certain elements to others. IE 7:1 CA/Mg and 1:1 K/P ratios, both of which are critical to High Brix growing.
The levels of fertilizer, both organic and mineral/salt based we're talking about here aren't at levels to become toxic. In fact, many of them are unavailable to the plant without microbial action. So the plants will grow, thrive and impress with crazy out of spec levels. My old soil mix was literally off the charts when tested...yet some really nice plants and produce came from that soil.
We're trying to make microbes happy. When they're happy, they feed the plants, and then the good things happen. So far, I think each of us has had weeks of truly high brix growing, and then we run into trouble here and there. This is undoubtedly to to stuff we're feeding:
too much sugar
too many microbes
too much K,P,Mg, Ca.
When you feed too much sugar and too many microbes, they eat up the soil and starve the plants. If you feed too much K or P to upset the ratio, the plants may still look good, but their true potential will never be reached.
Hopefully, with the new, professionally designed high brix soil, and their day by day feeding/foliar spraying program, I'll be able to break through and grow High Brix from seed to harvest.
Then, I'll be famous. (not kidding here.)
It does better outdoors than indoors. Everything is better outside if you have a good climate. The only thing we indoor pukes have going for us is that we can control the weather. (but even then far too many growers skimp on their only strength and allow themselves to be at the mercy of the weather indoors.)
The first step:
Determine if you're going to be in containers, raised beds, or the ground.
If in containers, copy my soil when I post it in a few weeks.
If in raised beds---a far superior option to containers IMO----start off with my soil and then keep it in the beds and get it tested each year. It will improve and in year 3 you should have superb soil....crazy good.
Same deal with the ground. You must get it tested.
With the soil testing will come a recommendation for broadcast, transplant mixes, feeding, foliar spraying, etc. They can mix up your broadcast and ship it to you, along with foliar sprays etc.
The prices are very reasonable.....3 years worth of stuff for under 400 bucks, including shipping. No fancy labels with Rasta men, or fanciful flowers and stoner talk.....just professional grade, PhD designed, individualized fertilizers and amendments that will allow you to grow the very best Cannabis in the world.
Very much agree with Doc's last post.... I had some beautiful high brix plants going and then I got a little off focus and added too much and now I am dealing with leaf discolorations and my ratio's are probably way off track now, with high brix it seems to me that less is more, literally..
I know I have added too much Ca, Too much sugar and too much compost tea to my soil and now mid flowering I am having issues. I believe in my situation, the abundance of Ca locked out the P and the S and is causing too high of an EC level in the soil... hence my discolored yellow leaves.. at first I thought it was lack of nutrients, but I found it hard to believe because guano's release for up to 3 months and after adding N the situation didn't improve but seemingly got worse... so I pretty much messed up when I did the 6-5-3 (4x) during this grow...too much Ca... Next grow I will only mix this ratio into the soil and possibly topdress once mid flowering
I can't wait till we all get this process down to perfect Credit to Docbud for all the time, effort and research that he has put into this style of growing... also love how your doing the BPN shootout
Once we have all figured out this High Brix growing, I have an idea that I would like to colabo with you Doc, that would take that famous to a whole new level
I know I have added too much Ca, Too much sugar and too much compost tea to my soil and now mid flowering I am having issues. I believe in my situation, the abundance of Ca locked out the P and the S and is causing too high of an EC level in the soil... hence my discolored yellow leaves.. at first I thought it was lack of nutrients, but I found it hard to believe because guano's release for up to 3 months and after adding N the situation didn't improve but seemingly got worse... so I pretty much messed up when I did the 6-5-3 (4x) during this grow...too much Ca... Next grow I will only mix this ratio into the soil and possibly topdress once mid flowering
I can't wait till we all get this process down to perfect Credit to Docbud for all the time, effort and research that he has put into this style of growing... also love how your doing the BPN shootout Once we have all figured out this High Brix growing, I have an idea that I would like to colabo with you Doc, that would take that famous to a whole new level
- Thread starter
- #200
Very much agree with Doc's last post.... I had some beautiful high brix plants going and then I got a little off focus and added too much and now I am dealing with leaf discolorations and my ratio's are probably way off track now, with high brix it seems to me that less is more, literally..
I know I have added too much Ca, Too much sugar and too much compost tea to my soil and now mid flowering I am having issues. I believe in my situation, the abundance of Ca locked out the P and the S and is causing too high of an EC level in the soil... hence my discolored yellow leaves.. at first I thought it was lack of nutrients, but I found it hard to believe because guano's release for up to 3 months and after adding N the situation didn't improve but seemingly got worse... so I pretty much messed up when I did the 6-5-3 (4x) during this grow...too much Ca... Next grow I will only mix this ratio into the soil and possibly topdress once mid flowering
Once we have all figured out this High Brix growing, I have an idea that I would like to colabo with you Doc, that would take that famous to a whole new level
Yep. Sounds great Ice!
Adding too much of something to get off ratio can mess things up. This time I've really backed off on the tea, and I top dressed once with rock powders. However, I got the foliars dialed in much better and I'm using those in veg and into flower, although I'm careful to get mostly fan leaves and not saturate any buds. With compost tea foliars I gave them a good soak, but not with the Amaze.
After getting the foliar recommendations on my last soil report, I really appreciated how important and central the foliar feedings are. The plant can literally be fed via the leaves, without disturbing the soil biology. You've got to be careful, because foliar sprays have a big effect on the plants.
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