Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Quick question Doc and Gang, got these girls in third run soil and they aren't looking so happy...

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Hi guys

I'm thinking about getting into Hi Brix, but there's one obstacle in the way: I live in Europe so getting Promix is pretty much impossible unless I get it shipped halfway around the globe which seems counter productive when we have plenty of peat moss and dolomite lime here :)

Is there a usable substitute available in Europe, or a recipe that mimics the Promix?

Thanks in advance :passitleft:
 
PurpleGunRack said:
Hi guys

I'm thinking about getting into Hi Brix, but there's one obstacle in the way: I live in Europe so getting Promix is pretty much impossible unless I get it shipped halfway around the globe which seems counter productive when we have plenty of peat moss and dolomite lime here :)

Is there a usable substitute available in Europe, or a recipe that mimics the Promix?

Thanks in advance :passitleft:
Click to expand...

Hi there PGR.

I believe there's a brand called Pendstrup available there? If so, their propagation product is workable.

What you're looking for is peat moss, pH stabilized with calcium carbonate ideally, or a combination of CaC03 and dolomite. Pure dolomite is to be avoided if possible.

If you just got peat moss without a pH stabilizer, you could figure out how to do it yourself using calcium carbonate. The kit will do the rest.
 
Coloradokid19 said:
Quick question Doc and Gang, got these girls in third run soil and they aren’t looking so happy...

1de4dff2abd7f1cb254576796a86b9ca.jpg
31a0b8171e8501534c67bdf90dc26b03.jpg
605c06a85ce399649c91c00a8bf2b5b9.jpg
9f3aace446a7ea01506c64c2fe418b74.jpg
Click to expand...

You may need to flush them a bit. 3rd run soil can build up salts and organic matter sometimes. Not all strains like it, but a few of mine are often at their best, while a couple others are not. Add some Tea as a chaser after the flush....like 5mils per plant in a quart of water slowly poured down the top at the end of the flush.

Do this a couple times, foliar every 2 weeks and they should do pretty well.
 
Should I be concerned about the Darkening/purpling of the leaf stems ?

These are both Day 9 of Veg
both have been topped at Node 5

Damage to leafs caused by my failed FIM that turned out to be a top.
white spots on leafs are from dried brix

They have both had 2 Dunks
and 1 Brix

1st Dunk (ea. 1 gal pot) was with a stronger than usual dose of
0.5 Ounce Transplant
2.5 Mils Tea
in 1.25 Gal H2O

Last Dunk was 2 days ago

I went with ¼ transplant amount of
.25 Mils Transplant
0.2 Mils Tea
with 10 Cups H2O Each Plant

gsce_top_vd9_1.jpg
gsce_close_vd9_2.jpg
blackberry_top_vd9_1.jpg
blackberry_close_vd9_3a.jpg
 
Gazoo said:
Should I be concerned about the Darkening/purpling of the leaf stems ?

These are both Day 9 of Veg
both have been topped at Node 5

Damage to leafs caused by my failed FIM that turned out to be a top.
white spots on leafs are from dried brix

They have both had 2 Dunks
and 1 Brix

1st Dunk (ea. 1 gal pot) was with a stronger than usual dose of
0.5 Ounce Transplant
2.5 Mils Tea
in 1.25 Gal H2O

Last Dunk was 2 days ago

I went with ¼ transplant amount of
.25 Mils Transplant
0.2 Mils Tea
with 10 Cups H2O Each Plant

gsce_top_vd9_1.jpg
gsce_close_vd9_2.jpg
blackberry_top_vd9_1.jpg
blackberry_close_vd9_3a.jpg
Click to expand...

they look great! Why not feed a tad heavier and see if they like it or not? No harm will come if you increase everything 50%. If they look better, worse, or the same you'll have your answer!

I think they look great.
 
Doc Bud said:
they look great! Why not feed a tad heavier and see if they like it or not? No harm will come if you increase everything 50%. If they look better, worse, or the same you'll have your answer!

I think they look great.
Click to expand...

Thanks I think they look good as well, just wanted to head off
an issue with the darkening stems if there was one.

The Blackberry still holding onto her Embryonic Leafs :)
 
Gazoo said:
Thanks I think they look good as well, just wanted to head off
an issue with the darkening stems if there was one.

The Blackberry still holding onto her Embryonic Leafs :)
Click to expand...
That slight purpling can also be gentic. Not always, but could be the case here. I agree they look great! Nice and fake
 
Doc Bud said:
You may need to flush them a bit. 3rd run soil can build up salts and organic matter sometimes. Not all strains like it, but a few of mine are often at their best, while a couple others are not. Add some Tea as a chaser after the flush....like 5mils per plant in a quart of water slowly poured down the top at the end of the flush.

Do this a couple times, foliar every 2 weeks and they should do pretty well.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks Doc! They seemed to like it when I gave them a trans drench they perked up a bit but I'll flush them. I did add a bunch of leaves when I cooked this soil for the last run so organic build up is probably it....
 
Doc Bud said:
Hi there PGR.

I believe there's a brand called Pendstrup available there? If so, their propagation product is workable.

What you're looking for is peat moss, pH stabilized with calcium carbonate ideally, or a combination of CaC03 and dolomite. Pure dolomite is to be avoided if possible.

If you just got peat moss without a pH stabilizer, you could figure out how to do it yourself using calcium carbonate. The kit will do the rest.
Click to expand...

Thank you :passitleft:


It's called Pindstrup and it's made in my country :)

Their organic propagation product is:

Finely sorted peat moss
Fertilized with composted chicken manure from organic farms
pH'ed to 6 with calcium (doesn't say which kind)

PINDSTRP SA- OG PRIKLEMULD OKO 25 L - PINDSTRUP - Varemaerker

There's also a non-organic version which uses NPK fertilizer(?) and has some perlite in it, the organic one is only slightly more expensive.

Should I add some dolomite lime to that?

What about the mycorrhizae? I can get a product called MycorDip mycorrhiza which contains ecto -and endomycorrhizae, it's ~ $50 for 80 gram, no idea how much to use if I should :)


Earthworm casting and perlite is abundant in growshops so that won't be a problem ;)

:Namaste:
 
PurpleGunRack said:
Thank you :passitleft:


It's called Pindstrup and it's made in my country :)

Their organic propagation product is:

Finely sorted peat moss
Fertilized with composted chicken manure from organic farms
pH'ed to 6 with calcium (doesn't say which kind)

PINDSTRP SA- OG PRIKLEMULD OKO 25 L - PINDSTRUP - Varemaerker

There's also a non-organic version which uses NPK fertilizer(?) and has some perlite in it, the organic one is only slightly more expensive.

Should I add some dolomite lime to that?

What about the mycorrhizae? I can get a product called MycorDip mycorrhiza which contains ecto -and endomycorrhizae, it's ~ $50 for 80 gram, no idea how much to use if I should :)


Earthworm casting and perlite is abundant in growshops so that won't be a problem ;)

:Namaste:
Click to expand...

Try to get their product that has ZERO fertilizers in it.....just peat and buffer. (calcium)

Do not add dolomite! That stuff doesn't work well and the pH is too low at 6....I like it at 6.4.

Also, the kit contains loads of myco....the right kind for our favorite plants. Try to get the propagation formula without fertilizer and you're good to go! oh....please add EWC too. You won't need perlite, the product already has it if it's the one I'm familiar with.
 
Doc Bud said:
Try to get their product that has ZERO fertilizers in it.....just peat and buffer. (calcium)

Do not add dolomite! That stuff doesn't work well and the pH is too low at 6....I like it at 6.4.

Also, the kit contains loads of myco....the right kind for our favorite plants. Try to get the propagation formula without fertilizer and you're good to go! oh....please add EWC too. You won't need perlite, the product already has it if it's the one I'm familiar with.
Click to expand...

Can't find one with only peat and calcium, but I'm pretty sure the amount of fertilizer in it is very low as it is made for seedlings and clones.
Only the non-organic one has perlite in it, I can only find the info on the fertilizer added on Pindstrup's website, the re-sellers' sites don't say anything about fertilizer.
Might give them a call tomorrow and ask some questions, they do make products on demand but I'll probably have to place a pretty big order for that :)

Crossing myco off the list, nice, one less thing to get ;)
 
PurpleGunRack said:
Can't find one with only peat and calcium, but I'm pretty sure the amount of fertilizer in it is very low as it is made for seedlings and clones.
Only the non-organic one has perlite in it, I can only find the info on the fertilizer added on Pindstrup's website, the re-sellers' sites don't say anything about fertilizer.
Might give them a call tomorrow and ask some questions, they do make products on demand but I'll probably have to place a pretty big order for that :)

Crossing myco off the list, nice, one less thing to get ;)
Click to expand...

Hope you can locate what you need.. :Namaste:
 
PurpleGunRack said:
Can't find one with only peat and calcium, but I'm pretty sure the amount of fertilizer in it is very low as it is made for seedlings and clones.
Only the non-organic one has perlite in it, I can only find the info on the fertilizer added on Pindstrup's website, the re-sellers' sites don't say anything about fertilizer.
Might give them a call tomorrow and ask some questions, they do make products on demand but I'll probably have to place a pretty big order for that :)

Crossing myco off the list, nice, one less thing to get ;)
Click to expand...

You'll be OK with the fertilizer one....just add 20 to 30% fine perlite. Water it really good before planting the seed to leech out some of the chicken manure.

They'll grow!
 
Allright, this is what I'm thinking about doing:

100L Pindstrup organic propagation mix
30L Perlite
10kg - 20Kg EWC

This should be close to Promix HP mixed with EWC


Is it ok to cook small batches of soil, or does it have to have a certain volume to work properly?

I have two 4x4 tents, one for veg and one for flowering, and I would like to have 4 plants in 7 gallon fabric pots in the flowering tent at all times so I don't waste power/time/room, but I'd like them to be 2-4 weeks apart so I have a continious grow where I don't have to spend several days harvesting/washing/trimming ;)
 
PurpleGunRack said:
Allright, this is what I'm thinking about doing:

100L Pindstrup organic propagation mix
30L Perlite
10kg - 20Kg EWC

This should be close to Promix HP mixed with EWC


Is it ok to cook small batches of soil, or does it have to have a certain volume to work properly?

I have two 4x4 tents, one for veg and one for flowering, and I would like to have 4 plants in 7 gallon fabric pots in the flowering tent at all times so I don't waste power/time/room, but I'd like them to be 2-4 weeks apart so I have a continious grow where I don't have to spend several days harvesting/washing/trimming ;)
Click to expand...

Cook it all at once! Try to get the equivalent amount of soil as we have here in the states with Promix HP myco. The bag is 3.8 cu feet.....compressed. It expands out to roughly 50 gallons of soil. Sorry about the English measurements....you'll have to do some math.
 
Doc Bud said:
Cook it all at once! Try to get the equivalent amount of soil as we have here in the states with Promix HP myco. The bag is 3.8 cu feet.....compressed. It expands out to roughly 50 gallons of soil. Sorry about the English measurements....you'll have to do some math.
Click to expand...

3,8 cubic feet is 107 L, so with the perlite added it's slightly more than a bale of promix, I don't know how compressed the Pindstup peat is, but it's compressed to some extent for sure.

Is it ok to store the soil for 1-2 months after cooking?

Don't worry about the Imperial Standards, I'll convert as I go along. You guys will come around to the ease of the metric system at some point, the Brits did, at least mostly ;)
 
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