Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,

Thanks to you every batch I have grown over the past few years has been way way better than anything anyone else in town ever shows me. From the hempys up to the brix. So I am pretty confident in my ability to turn out great smoking bud.

The weakness of my grows are yield. I realize the space I use could get just as much out of one plant as the 3 or 4 that are normally in there.

The question I have is when you split your plant as I have seen you do to get four main colas, what sort of yield do you get on average. I would guess from the look of some of your colas they over an ounce a piece or more when dry. Are they close to 4zs per plant?

My partner doesn't like the idea of pinching and we always end up with jammed jungles.

My theory is on a four cola plant there is a lot of room for light to reach the lower area?

You are correct. The 4 colas on a SHORTER plant allow more light and overall better light due to a more "shallow" canopy. If I could have a 5 foot plant or a 3 foot topped plant of the same strain, it's a no-brainer....go for the shorter one.

I get 4-6 oz lately....much closer to the 4 mark. The Tahoe OG is a huge yielder, got 22 oz from 4 plants. At the same time Champagne will give me at most 4. Lemon Paki is an easy 4-5. I top everything now, except 12/12 from seed.

Hopefully I'll be doing one of those with Colombian Red soon.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,

Thanks to you every batch I have grown over the past few years has been way way better than anything anyone else in town ever shows me. From the hempys up to the brix. So I am pretty confident in my ability to turn out great smoking bud.

The weakness of my grows are yield. I realize the space I use could get just as much out of one plant as the 3 or 4 that are normally in there.

The question I have is when you split your plant as I have seen you do to get four main colas, what sort of yield do you get on average. I would guess from the look of some of your colas they over an ounce a piece or more when dry. Are they close to 4zs per plant?

My partner doesn't like the idea of pinching and we always end up with jammed jungles.

My theory is on a four cola plant there is a lot of room for light to reach the lower area?

Just for you HH, and anyone else who wonders what I do. It's really simple, just basic gardening skills....

Here's a 10 day from roots appearing transplanted clone of GSC. As you can see, I topped it 6 nodes down from the top. Caution: do not do this unless you have 5 bladed leaves! If the plant is throwing out 3 bladed leaves, do not top until it's happily back to 5 or more.
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Here's how much foliage comes off of two small tranplanted clones
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re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

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Meter $25 on Amaz
Presents to myself
When I saw the above it clicked for me, and this is why you get into high K & Na
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc it sounds like you should be able to grow some big ass pumpkins in the used soil and see if that brings the #'s down for the soil to be reused
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Just imagine using the 300 gallon water trough on pneumatic rubber tires to push them around easily.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc!! Hope you are having a great holidays!!! I had a question regarding the products from "the Lab", bloomit, amaze and PGR. Can you swing by my journal when you get a free moment and help me out with the details of these products since you have used them before.

Out of respect I didn't post the questions here, but they are on this journal.
Icemud's Grow 6.0. Cherry Pie - GSC - OGiesel -SFV OG- University Hills OG- Perpetual

Thanks a million!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,
you had a quote in someones journal explaining the different types of nitrates and the benefits of each one. My comp took a crap and lost the bookmark and don't remember where it was posted. I would be happy to go look for it if you can point me in the right direction.I want to wrap my head around that and see how it would apply to a hydro grow. I know this is a HB journal but believe that what you said in that quote would benefit even the hydro growers by using the right nitrates at different times depending on which phase the plants are in, especially the different phases in bloom.

Great journal BTW!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,
you had a quote in someones journal explaining the different types of nitrates and the benefits of each one. My comp took a crap and lost the bookmark and don't remember where it was posted. I would be happy to go look for it if you can point me in the right direction.I want to wrap my head around that and see how it would apply to a hydro grow. I know this is a HB journal but believe that what you said in that quote would benefit even the hydro growers by using the right nitrates at different times depending on which phase the plants are in, especially the different phases in bloom.

Great journal BTW!

I realize I'm not Doc and all but I believe this is what you are looking for...
Doc, are you using the cationic drench as a replacement for energy after week 4?

Ps
No.

Here's an email I got from the lab. This isn't a direct answer to your question, but the answers you seek are contained therein in germ form......

NPK....all nitrogen is "N." It's all the same once the plant breaks it down, right?

Doc Bud,

"Wrong!" says Dr. Reams.

"Nitrogen can be growth energy or reproductive energy depending on molecular configuration."

When nitrogen is in the nitrate form it creates growth energy in plants and soil. Reproductive energy comes in the form of ammoniacal, urea, or organic nitrogen. This dual form of energy for nitrogen makes it the most confusing element to consider when looking at energy.

A basic principle to always remember is that plant growth is all about energy.

You create this energy by reacting growth energy against reproductive energy according to the crop being grown.

Let's take a few examples to clarify this concept. We had a wheat grower who decided to spray his wheat with a few gallons of liquid calcium nitrate. Unfortunately this resulted in a significant yield decline. Fortunately International Ag Labs did not suggest this. :-) So what happened?

Liquid calcium nitrate is a double growth energy fertilizer. Both calcium and nitrogen in the nitrate form push plants and soils with growth energy. Regrettably the farmer sprayed his wheat just at the time the kernel count was being determined. The growth energy from the calcium nitrate pushed the wheat plants more toward growth energy and away from reproductive energy. What the plants really needed was a reproductive spray to increase kernel set.

Here is another example: A grower with a field of canning tomatoes sought to maximize his harvest of tomatoes all at picking time. To do this he kept his soil on the growth side longer by using growth energy products such as calcium nitrate and potassium nitrate. The result were large tomato plants and thick stalks but not a tomato anywhere. The canning company field rep was getting worried.

At the right time the farmer switched his soil from growth to reproductive and turned his field yellow with blossoms overnight. How did he do this? By using reproductive fertilizers and foliar sprays. These caused the soil and plants to switch from growth to reproductive. How can this be done? Simple - broadcast some ammonium sulfate, 11-52-0 or urea. Then spray the plants with a dilute reproductive spray made from household ammonia, phosphoric acid, vinegar etc. The broadcast switches the soil while the foliar spray switched the plants.

Once a large bunch of tomatoes were set and beginning to develop, the farmer switched back to growth energy dominance. Why? Because growth energy is also bulking energy. Now the farmer wanted to size up the tomatoes. By keeping growth energy dominant he was able to stop new blossoms from developing. What was the end result? A large harvest of tomatoes all ripening at nearly the same time.

Last example: You manage conventional turf. What nitrogen source should you use? The standard practice is to use urea. Urea is a 100% reproductive energy. Turf is a crop that needs growth energy dominance. This means urea is the exact opposite energy of what should be supplied. Organically managed turf using compost or some other organic nitrogen does the same thing. Too much reproductive energy. The answer is to use calcium nitrate.

So is nitrogen just nitrogen? No it is a very specific energy that can influence the soil/plant in the direction you wish.


Happy New year Doc...:high-five:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I realize I'm not Doc and all but I believe this is what you are looking for...



Happy New year Doc...:high-five:

You too Curso!

Thanks for saving me the time and posting that!

Sbudgazer,

For a hydro grow, I'm not sure how it would work, because there are no microbes to signal via root exudates....but it's worth a try! Certainly I'd use different products than our high brix stuff in a hydro grow....so it might be tough to find products that would allow a person to try this out!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Thank you for the quick reply Curso and Doc.

I will have to write this down and think about it a bit. Easier for me to wrap the brain waves around it when I write stuff down and play with the info. I do realize that with your HB that your sprays sends signals down to the roots and lets the beasties know what the plant is looking for. In turn the beasties provide the proper Nitrogen to the roots. I think you know where I am going with this. I am just curious since hydro changes reservoirs weekly or even once every two weeks if changing the forms of nitrogen available at the right the time would benefit the overall outcome. Hmmmm, wheels a turning. Any thoughts?

Also as you can see I have been a member here for a couple of years but rarely post. I find that most questions I have will be answered sooner or later. I have followed many journals and have gained a lot of knowledge reading along. Whether or not I could put the knowledge into practice is yet to be determined. I do have greenhouse experience but not with this crop. I use to grow poinsettias, bedding plants and tropicals.I know apples and oranges but the basics are the same.

I find myself working in a dieing industry and wish to go into a different direction. I am hoping to make Denver this spring and see what it would take to start a commercial setup since the state I live in has started the process of changing the laws. enuf of my ramblings and to all of 420, HAPPY NEW Year!!!!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Thank you for the quick reply Curso and Doc.

I will have to write this down and think about it a bit. Easier for me to wrap the brain waves around it when I write stuff down and play with the info. I do realize that with your HB that your sprays sends signals down to the roots and lets the beasties know what the plant is looking for. In turn the beasties provide the proper Nitrogen to the roots. I think you know where I am going with this. I am just curious since hydro changes reservoirs weekly or even once every two weeks if changing the forms of nitrogen available at the right the time would benefit the overall outcome. Hmmmm, wheels a turning. Any thoughts?

Also as you can see I have been a member here for a couple of years but rarely post. I find that most questions I have will be answered sooner or later. I have followed many journals and have gained a lot of knowledge reading along. Whether or not I could put the knowledge into practice is yet to be determined. I do have greenhouse experience but not with this crop. I use to grow poinsettias, bedding plants and tropicals.I know apples and oranges but the basics are the same.

I find myself working in a dieing industry and wish to go into a different direction. I am hoping to make Denver this spring and see what it would take to start a commercial setup since the state I live in has started the process of changing the laws. enuf of my ramblings and to all of 420, HAPPY NEW Year!!!!

I really don't know how this would work in hydro....but looking at my old hydro nutes and reading the labels reveals that various forms of nitrogen are used: Nitrate, Urea and Ammoniacal.

If you could find products that separate them out you might be able to play with this and accomplish something. But then you've got the pH issue to deal with.....so it's really beyond my understanding past the "Maybe it could work" stage.

Many of the things our High Brix plants eat are simply rocks. In order to dissolve these rocks, pH need to be pretty low, which is where the microbes come into play, changing pH on a cellular level as needed. In hydro, you won't have this symbiotic relationship to the same extent you have it in soil.

Please keep me posted with regard to your experiments, as it sounds very interesting!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

If I was going to try to raise brix in a hydro setup, I'd try doing it through foliars.

I ran across some people who have tried raising calcium levels in the res with some success, but it presented ph issues and their results were pretty modest - still had trouble getting to 12 brix. It seems possible to create a mineralized res, but I'd guess that you'd need some tricky buffers to keep rogue chemical reactions in check. Maybe a guy could rotate solutions ... ? I don't see any good way to introduce nitrites into the circulation system - ammonia=bad, and more ph problems ...

But I bet it would be possible to design a foliar that would allow direct absorption of a balanced sugar/mineral solution. It wouldn't be anything like the soil foliars, since they're designed to feed the biota, not the plant. In your case, you'd be bypassing the biota and feeding the plant directly.

If that could be done, it would be easy to feed a reproductive foliar or a growth foliar, whenever you wished, and test for brix right after.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hope you have a great and safe new year Doc!!

Got 4 white widow sprouted right now in your soil. Theyre actually growing by the hour (so it seems) lol I cant wait to start spraying :)
Thanks again!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

If I was going to try to raise brix in a hydro setup, I'd try doing it through foliars.

I ran across some people who have tried raising calcium levels in the res with some success, but it presented ph issues and their results were pretty modest - still had trouble getting to 12 brix. It seems possible to create a mineralized res, but I'd guess that you'd need some tricky buffers to keep rogue chemical reactions in check. Maybe a guy could rotate solutions ... ? I don't see any good way to introduce nitrites into the circulation system - ammonia=bad, and more ph problems ...

But I bet it would be possible to design a foliar that would allow direct absorption of a balanced sugar/mineral solution. It wouldn't be anything like the soil foliars, since they're designed to feed the biota, not the plant. In your case, you'd be bypassing the biota and feeding the plant directly.

If that could be done, it would be easy to feed a reproductive foliar or a growth foliar, whenever you wished, and test for brix right after.

That's a briliant idea bro. I immediately thought of a medium like hydroton, or one of the other mediums that might be better as far as CEC goes, and run it like a flood and drain that alternated two different solutions. The cross contamination from residue would dictate pretty frequent reservoir changes and could create some chemistry migraines.

Perhaps that could be solved by running a "flush" reservoir that alternated between the other two? Interesting eh?

Who could create such a thing? It's very complex. Or....we could use the soil....which does all that and more. Damn....that last line ended up sounding quotable.

Hope you have a great and safe new year Doc!!

Got 4 white widow sprouted right now in your soil. Theyre actually growing by the hour (so it seems) lol I cant wait to start spraying :)
Thanks again!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc

I am somewhere around 10th generation (3 years) clone of clone of clone my legendary White Widow and it seems like the clones have a very mature single white hair at each node from the time they start take off.

The last one I grew out hardly stretched at all and started budding and never grew to her normal size.

Is she reaching the end of her run?

It would be a shame to see her go. I know I have said it many times before, but it is so good it would be right up there with the legendary parents of other famous strains.

It is way better than other seeds of WW from the same breeder. Totally different. Whether or not it is a true WW or some experimental strain that got mixed up or a freak pheno, she needs to survive and be shared by more people that would appreciate her.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc

I am somewhere around 10th generation (3 years) clone of clone of clone my legendary White Widow and it seems like the clones have a very mature single white hair at each node from the time they start take off.

The last one I grew out hardly stretched at all and started budding and never grew to her normal size.

Is she reaching the end of her run?

It would be a shame to see her go. I know I have said it many times before, but it is so good it would be right up there with the legendary parents of other famous strains.

It is way better than other seeds of WW from the same breeder. Totally different. Whether or not it is a true WW or some experimental strain that got mixed up or a freak pheno, she needs to survive and be shared by more people that would appreciate her.

It happens....you might try to grow it in only vegetative soil, with only Nitrates and CaN03, and not foliar feed you might be able to "re-veg" it.
 
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