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re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures
Hey VD, (feel funny sayin' that)
It sounds like you're my kind of grower! I totally appreciate anyone willing to get serious about the world's best and most beloved plant!
10 Brix is excellent if you're vegging. In bloom you want to see that go up over 12, ideally.
I highly recommend you standardize your testing methodology and don't deviate from it as you go. Once you do that, your measurements willl mean much more. Al ways test healthy, vibrant tissue and include the same plant parts in each sample you take.
Plants with salt issues can give silly readings sometimes and some folks confuse these readings with proper readings....just remember that raisins have higher brix than grapes due to being dehydrated....but that doesn't make them more fit for making wine.
Diatomaceous Earth....I've got a bin of it I'll never, ever use. So sad.
It is far too high in Potassium to be used in any kind of growing that focuses on nutrient density, or high brix. That's the only problem, but it's definitely a deal breaker. It's a good source of trace elements....not nearly as good as Azomite or Soft Rock Phosphate.....but still a cheap, decent source. But it completely ruins any high brix action.....so I do NOT recommend it.
As for Amaze and PGR, Bloomit, etc. The sprays I'm using contain all of that and more, so I don't have a need for the others.
Bloomit is fun. I liken it to shooting pellet guns in the livng room at targets in the kitchen. It's only a matter of time till something breaks.....the stuff is STRONG! It definitely works crazy good, but most of us who play with it usually burn holes in our leaves. It's just too strong for tender, indoor plants, IMO.
The stuff in my kit is what I use, and it's all balanced and designed to go together.
Doc you're going great guns my brother. Your passion is much appreciated.
Your posts caught my attention for their success and for your open minded experimentation. I'm adjusting a grow towards a more brix based style inspired from observing your journals.
I just now took a reading from the juice I extracted from the lowest leaves of a 2 month Western Winds. I got a solid line 10. I'll consider that my baseline as I incorporate some brix practices that make sense even though I'm 2 months from germ.
I apologize if you already have answered these 2 questions...what is the neg side of DE in a high brix soil? And why did you switch from the amaze/PGR to the current products?
I appreciate your expertise and attention.
VD
Hey VD, (feel funny sayin' that)
It sounds like you're my kind of grower! I totally appreciate anyone willing to get serious about the world's best and most beloved plant!
10 Brix is excellent if you're vegging. In bloom you want to see that go up over 12, ideally.
I highly recommend you standardize your testing methodology and don't deviate from it as you go. Once you do that, your measurements willl mean much more. Al ways test healthy, vibrant tissue and include the same plant parts in each sample you take.
Plants with salt issues can give silly readings sometimes and some folks confuse these readings with proper readings....just remember that raisins have higher brix than grapes due to being dehydrated....but that doesn't make them more fit for making wine.
Diatomaceous Earth....I've got a bin of it I'll never, ever use. So sad.
It is far too high in Potassium to be used in any kind of growing that focuses on nutrient density, or high brix. That's the only problem, but it's definitely a deal breaker. It's a good source of trace elements....not nearly as good as Azomite or Soft Rock Phosphate.....but still a cheap, decent source. But it completely ruins any high brix action.....so I do NOT recommend it.
As for Amaze and PGR, Bloomit, etc. The sprays I'm using contain all of that and more, so I don't have a need for the others.
Bloomit is fun. I liken it to shooting pellet guns in the livng room at targets in the kitchen. It's only a matter of time till something breaks.....the stuff is STRONG! It definitely works crazy good, but most of us who play with it usually burn holes in our leaves. It's just too strong for tender, indoor plants, IMO.
The stuff in my kit is what I use, and it's all balanced and designed to go together.