Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc you're going great guns my brother. Your passion is much appreciated.

Your posts caught my attention for their success and for your open minded experimentation. I'm adjusting a grow towards a more brix based style inspired from observing your journals.

I just now took a reading from the juice I extracted from the lowest leaves of a 2 month Western Winds. I got a solid line 10. I'll consider that my baseline as I incorporate some brix practices that make sense even though I'm 2 months from germ.

I apologize if you already have answered these 2 questions...what is the neg side of DE in a high brix soil? And why did you switch from the amaze/PGR to the current products?

I appreciate your expertise and attention.

VD

Hey VD, (feel funny sayin' that)

It sounds like you're my kind of grower! I totally appreciate anyone willing to get serious about the world's best and most beloved plant!

10 Brix is excellent if you're vegging. In bloom you want to see that go up over 12, ideally.

I highly recommend you standardize your testing methodology and don't deviate from it as you go. Once you do that, your measurements willl mean much more. Al ways test healthy, vibrant tissue and include the same plant parts in each sample you take.

Plants with salt issues can give silly readings sometimes and some folks confuse these readings with proper readings....just remember that raisins have higher brix than grapes due to being dehydrated....but that doesn't make them more fit for making wine.

Diatomaceous Earth....I've got a bin of it I'll never, ever use. So sad.

It is far too high in Potassium to be used in any kind of growing that focuses on nutrient density, or high brix. That's the only problem, but it's definitely a deal breaker. It's a good source of trace elements....not nearly as good as Azomite or Soft Rock Phosphate.....but still a cheap, decent source. But it completely ruins any high brix action.....so I do NOT recommend it.

As for Amaze and PGR, Bloomit, etc. The sprays I'm using contain all of that and more, so I don't have a need for the others.

Bloomit is fun. I liken it to shooting pellet guns in the livng room at targets in the kitchen. It's only a matter of time till something breaks.....the stuff is STRONG! It definitely works crazy good, but most of us who play with it usually burn holes in our leaves. It's just too strong for tender, indoor plants, IMO.

The stuff in my kit is what I use, and it's all balanced and designed to go together.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc, are those photos with the purpling leaves cookies? They look just like my GSC that I harvested yesterday. :) Very nice photos and always amazing!

Hey Ice!

Thanks for dropping by. I wish I could smoke some of that Lemon Paki with you...that's the color changing stuff you see. It's my personal best so far. The terpenes this time are something I've only dreamed of so far.

I have taken a few pics of my GSC too:
Picture_002229.jpg
IMG_54356.JPG
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Ice!

Thanks for dropping by. I wish I could smoke some of that Lemon Paki with you...that's the color changing stuff you see. It's my personal best so far. The terpenes this time are something I've only dreamed of so far.

I have taken a few pics of my GSC too:
Picture_002229.jpg
IMG_54356.JPG

DocBud, I would be honored to experience (not just smoke) but experience a true master's work. That would be like asking a martial artist to train with Bruce Lee :)

That Lemon Paki must be part cannabis and part of what dreams are made from! Looks amazing, very very similar look to the GSC cut that I am running. The GSC that you have though looks very different from mine, but I know that there are tons of different cookies cuts out on the market. :)


Your Lemon Paki..
Picture_001234.jpg

Here is my GSC..
DSC080721.JPG
DSC080752.JPG
DSC080762.JPG


They looked really similar when I saw your photo :)

I honestly have to say it is one of the top cuts I have ever grown and only to get better. Its amazing from running it last grow to this grow with a different soil mixture, how much more the terpine are apparent in the current one vs the last grow. The first grow the taste and smell was there, but not complex (like a mild mint cookie dough kush smell)...this grow the taste is far more complex and the aroma is stunning ( a very deep grape soda, mixed with a very strong OG fragrance) I can only imagine once I get it up into the high brix realm what is possible :)

BTW, I just ordered the rest of my LED for my flowering tent so once it is up and running and I am ready to take cuts, I also will be reaching out for a kit soon :) I also promise to run your kit as directed and see how it prevails under my LEDs... and not modify or experiment....as you all have seen me do time and time again in the past :) lol

I also ordered some PGR, Bloomit and Amaze to play around with in the current grows and see how it takes :)
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc thanks for the detailz.

OUCH on the DE. I've used it successfully in mixes for other horticultural projects (ornamental) so, by habit, i used it for mary jane. Lesson learned. In the meantime im getting schooled for the next go.

It's super enjoyable to be learning these techniques. THANKS ALL.

VD
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc thanks for the detailz.

OUCH on the DE. I've used it successfully in mixes for other horticultural projects (ornamental) so, by habit, i used it for mary jane. Lesson learned. In the meantime im getting schooled for the next go.

It's super enjoyable to be learning these techniques. THANKS ALL.

VD

Yeah, the high potassium/high salt method of growing relies on PK spikes and such and the DE is good for that, as well as silica. When there isn't good root colonization or the soil is sterile, that's when NPK wisdom kicks in to keep the plants thriving.

High Brix is different in the sense that we're all about the soil, getting everything just right, keeping the battery charged up, and switching from nitrate to ammonium at the right time, all with a thriving, hyperactive, massive biota writhing around in the pot. (slight dramatization)

What I'm trying to say, after a cognac and a 100 sized joint of OG and Cherry Pie, is that NPK doesn't really apply to High Brix. It's all about the microbial action in the soil, the minerals, the trace elements and foliar feeding all working together to supercharge the natural process that plants and soil have undergone for eons.

When you really start to get them humming along I swear they vibrate differently or something. No bugs.....although they're in there. they just can't seem to do any damage. They smell different. It's hard to describe, but you'll know exactly what I"m talking about when you get there.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey Doc merry xmas eve! I'm not doing brix but i am doing all organic and recently got DE to battle gnats as i'm running my ladies in coco, my question is that, even tho on the bag it says all organic, will it kill any of my soil biology?

You'll be fine with that, but I doubt it will kill the gnats. When you water the protective barrier will just wash away and you'll have to add more, etc.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Guys I use both powdered and granular diatomaceous earth. I (over) used the powdered form trying to control critters since it's an indoor grow. In my experience (basic organic grower) a heavy dose of powdered DE will create an imbalance. Rinsed granular DE at 20% of overall volume has worked well in my mix for durable structure and aeration.,<---- but not recommended for High Brix

I'm gonna address the excess powdered DE by: slowly elevating calcium and magnesium through rock dusts/ blood meal for nitrogen.
Next run I'll reformulate based on new learning.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays DocBud!!!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc

Could you explain how the cationic action works i.e. theory that you are working with, and what is it about the solution that makes it cationic and appropriate at certain points in mary's development. ( or a point in the right direction plz)

Also I saw your beautiful washed buds and wondered if you've considered Boveda 62's when you get them to the cure stage.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Also I saw your beautiful washed buds and wondered if you've considered Boveda 62's when you get them to the cure stage.

I just bought some a couple weeks ago and put them in all my jars. The humidity here drops well under 30.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc

Could you explain how the cationic action works i.e. theory that you are working with, and what is it about the solution that makes it cationic and appropriate at certain points in mary's development. ( or a point in the right direction plz)

Also I saw your beautiful washed buds and wondered if you've considered Boveda 62's when you get them to the cure stage.

boveda's are great! I used them several years ago with great results.

I don't use them now for a couple reasons:

1. My stuff is gone almost instantly, many times before it's harvested it's already bought.
2. High Brix produce, including and especially vegetables, simply have a longer shelf life.

Cations (positively charged ions) stimulate reproductive growth in plants.
Anions (negative) stimulate vegetative growth.

So, the Cat drench has ammonium, phosphate, sulfur in it, as well as organic fishy ferts. (all organic ferts are mildly reproductive)

I have some extensive posts on this a few months ago....no time to search but they're on this thread and the "In the Lab" thread.

Caution: total waste of time in home built soil.

I just bought some a couple weeks ago and put them in all my jars. The humidity here drops well under 30.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc,

Thanks to you every batch I have grown over the past few years has been way way better than anything anyone else in town ever shows me. From the hempys up to the brix. So I am pretty confident in my ability to turn out great smoking bud.

The weakness of my grows are yield. I realize the space I use could get just as much out of one plant as the 3 or 4 that are normally in there.

The question I have is when you split your plant as I have seen you do to get four main colas, what sort of yield do you get on average. I would guess from the look of some of your colas they over an ounce a piece or more when dry. Are they close to 4zs per plant?

My partner doesn't like the idea of pinching and we always end up with jammed jungles.

My theory is on a four cola plant there is a lot of room for light to reach the lower area?
 
Back
Top Bottom