Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

MIbuddz said:
Hey Doc,

I had the same question regarding care of mothers. I like the teen mom idea, my only concern would be degradation over time of taking clones from clones. Have you found this to not be a problem?
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Clones are the same age as their mother. If you let the mother plant grow for months and months...the clones are now months and months old. If you never let the plant grow more than a few set of nodes before cloning, the degradation is actually less than if you keep mothers.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

A few more pics. 4 weeks to go on the most advanced of these.

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re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Hey doc could you please enlighten us all with your drying and curing technique? I've tried a few methods so far with varied degrees of success...I'd love to know how you finish the art of growing and enjoying some of the best weed on earth.

Mahalo!

Also, what strain is that one with the massively swollen calyx?! Lemon paki?? Normal feed schedule? Looks like it enjoyed some cat-drench!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

yttocs1010 said:
wow so much gr8 info im subbed
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Welcome! This thread is about Q and A....but please read a bit as many of your questions have probably been asked before and you can "catch up" pretty quick to where High Brix growing is at by just reading this thread.

Either way, welcome to my journal and I hope you enjoy it!

tavosvo said:
Hey doc could you please enlighten us all with your drying and curing technique? I've tried a few methods so far with varied degrees of success...I'd love to know how you finish the art of growing and enjoying some of the best weed on earth.

Mahalo!

Also, what strain is that one with the massively swollen calyx?! Lemon paki?? Normal feed schedule? Looks like it enjoyed some cat-drench!
Click to expand...

I do not claim any special success with drying and curing. In fact, I feel like I've neglected that aspect of growing more than I should have. Nevertheless, I dry and cure a fair bit of legally grown cannabis from time to time and most people love it. So, I can say that my drying and curing methods aren't ruining the weed at least.....

Here's what I do:

Pluck off fan leaves, lowermost sugar leaves and using cool scissors made for vineyard work and clip off embedded sugar leaves, trying to leave a half trimmed bud.

Triple Wash procedure: (standard 3 bucket budwash S discussed on this thread and "In the Lab.") If there are any doubts about PM or rot or some other weird thing, I add a peroxide bath prior to the budwashing.

I then hang them on their own hooks or use clips. I have a dedicated drying room that is climate controlled. I like temps right around 65-69 degrees and 50-60% humidity. I start them off, while still plump and wet from the wash, at 69 degrees, 50% RH. After about 2 days, I let them temps drop and humidity creep up to where we're about 65 degrees, 60% rH. I have to add moisture to the room to accomplish this.

There is an oscillating fan that keeps air moving in the room.

They can hang anywhere from 5 days to 2 weeks and still be nice and fresh, as I keep the room at 65/60 except for when fresh stuff is hung up.

When the little florets snap off cleanly, I trim them all up, save the shake from the trimming for amazing joints, and put 'em right into mason jars.

Normally, there's no need to burp them, but if something seems too moist I take the jars out into the main warehouse which can be quite warm at times and always about 25% humidity and I open them for a few hours, covering the tops with paper towell.

After that treatment, buds that weren't quite ready for the jar are good to go. But that rarely happens. Usually I let them hang till they're done. Only if a I have an urgent order to fill will I speed it up.

There are many other ways to dry and cure. I do mine the way I do because with minimal changes it could be adapted to a food processing environment......I'm always thinking post prohibition.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Has anybody broken down the amount of nutrients for 1 or 2 plants? I thought I saw it somewhere in one of the Hi-Brix journals. I have used the transplant but nothing else yet. What would you add to mineralized soil during flowering? I have some bat guano & seaweed liquid or just leave it to the 6-5-3?
Water in some more 6-5-3 with azomite, if so how much? I have one at 3 weeks & 4 weeks into flower. Thanks in advance.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

high 420kwats said:
Has anybody broken down the amount of nutrients for 1 or 2 plants? I thought I saw it somewhere in one of the Hi-Brix journals. I have used the transplant but nothing else yet. What would you add to mineralized soil during flowering? I have some bat guano & seaweed liquid or just leave it to the 6-5-3?
Water in some more 6-5-3 with azomite, if so how much? I have one at 3 weeks & 4 weeks into flower. Thanks in advance.
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Well let's see here..

1oz for 6 plants...29.6ml..ill round up to 30ml.

So..5ml per plant per feeding. I generally use between 6-8ml, but i don't follow directions well lol. So 5ml is what's recommended for one plant; 1oz per 6 plant feeding. This is, according to doc, more than enough for a six plant garden, but people (curso) are having success with stronger feedings. I believe he goes as much as 10ml per plant for a feeding. Let's not forget that this is for full size flowering plants. If still in small 1 or 2 gal pots, I cut it in half, and use 2-4ml per feeding.


Concerning mineralized soil..I would get your hands on some T&J enterprises tea. That, along with the 6-5-3, will be awesome. If you dig around in docs older journals, you'll see that he recommends a couple other things as well; rock and chicken is one that comes to mind.

As to how much, I think it's 2 cups of 6-5-3 per bale of soil. So not very much per pot. Idk I'd say for a 5 gallon pot a 1/4 cup would be plenty. Maybe that's enough for a 7gal..

And about the timing, I would mix in the rock powders and some EWC and let the soil cook for a bit before using. But other wise, right away is a good time to add it! If already mixed in, maybe I'd top dress a little extra a third of the way through. Right about where you are now!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

tavosvo said:
Well let's see here..

1oz for 6 plants...29.6ml..ill round up to 30ml.

So..5ml per plant per feeding. I generally use between 6-8ml, but i don't follow directions well lol. So 5ml is what's recommended for one plant; 1oz per 6 plant feeding. This is, according to doc, more than enough for a six plant garden, but people (curso) are having success with stronger feedings. I believe he goes as much as 10ml per plant for a feeding. Let's not forget that this is for full size flowering plants. If still in small 1 or 2 gal pots, I cut it in half, and use 2-4ml per feeding.


Concerning mineralized soil..I would get your hands on some T&J enterprises tea. That, along with the 6-5-3, will be awesome. If you dig around in docs older journals, you'll see that he recommends a couple other things as well; rock and chicken is one that comes to mind.

As to how much, I think it's 2 cups of 6-5-3 per bale of soil. So not very much per pot. Idk I'd say for a 5 gallon pot a 1/4 cup would be plenty. Maybe that's enough for a 7gal..

And about the timing, I would mix in the rock powders and some EWC and let the soil cook for a bit before using. But other wise, right away is a good time to add it! If already mixed in, maybe I'd top dress a little extra a third of the way through. Right about where you are now!
Click to expand...


Great info Tavosvo:high-five:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

That is what thru me off I thought Doc had it set up for ten plants. I knew somebody had it! I would like to thank you so very much. I have 2 air pots with the bottoms raised up half way to work on my root structure. Would you still score the roots coming out of the airports since they are air pruned? When I TP up it will be 6" tall & 6" wide then into 5 gal smart pots 9.5" D x14 x14." Do you think if I left about 1.5 to 2" above soil line I would still have 5" of soil on the bottom. Does this make any since? Thanks again. Just can't wait for high brix.LOL
:peace:
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Raising the bottom doesn't seem to do anything but reduce amount of soil available. I disregard airpots instructions and run the bottom on the first or second row of cones to maximize root space.

I kinda halfway score the roots, but in my airpots there's no root binding so it is almost unnecessary. I brush off a bit of soil to expose some roots, dust with root zone and transplant.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

tavosvo said:
Well let's see here..

1oz for 6 plants...29.6ml..ill round up to 30ml.

So..5ml per plant per feeding. I generally use between 6-8ml, but i don't follow directions well lol. So 5ml is what's recommended for one plant; 1oz per 6 plant feeding. This is, according to doc, more than enough for a six plant garden, but people (curso) are having success with stronger feedings. I believe he goes as much as 10ml per plant for a feeding. Let's not forget that this is for full size flowering plants. If still in small 1 or 2 gal pots, I cut it in half, and use 2-4ml per feeding.


Concerning mineralized soil..I would get your hands on some T&J enterprises tea. That, along with the 6-5-3, will be awesome. If you dig around in docs older journals, you'll see that he recommends a couple other things as well; rock and chicken is one that comes to mind.

As to how much, I think it's 2 cups of 6-5-3 per bale of soil. So not very much per pot. Idk I'd say for a 5 gallon pot a 1/4 cup would be plenty. Maybe that's enough for a 7gal..

And about the timing, I would mix in the rock powders and some EWC and let the soil cook for a bit before using. But other wise, right away is a good time to add it! If already mixed in, maybe I'd top dress a little extra a third of the way through. Right about where you are now!
Click to expand...



I'd like to add that I was just reading Curso's journal and he believes the increased feeding strength isn't worth it and is a waste of product.

So to reiterate for anyone following along, following directions is the foolproof way to excellent meds!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

tavosvo said:
I'd like to add that I was just reading Curso's journal and he believes the increased feeding strength isn't worth it and is a waste of product.

So to reiterate for anyone following along, following directions is the foolproof way to excellent meds!
Click to expand...

Curso and I have been collaberating on how to kill our plants with too much feed. I doubled everything a few cycles ago, and got slightly lower brix and slightly worse taste. Curso has been trying all sorts of stuff to kill his plants.

Both of us have concluded that more isn't always better.

Follow directions until you learn what's what!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

A week and a half ago I screwed up my measurements and gave everything 2.5 times as much Energy/Tea as I should have. I was in a cold sweat when I realized it, but I'd been feeding on the low side all along, so I decided to just wait and see.

Well, everything looked great!

... but brix fell 2-3 points overnight on many of them.

If we overfeed the plants, the biota suffer. If we overfeed the biota, they don't need root exudates and they ignore what the plant wants.

"In tune" is best.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Graytail said:
A week and a half ago I screwed up my measurements and gave everything 2.5 times as much Energy/Tea as I should have. I was in a cold sweat when I realized it, but I'd been feeding on the low side all along, so I decided to just wait and see.

Well, everything looked great!

... but brix fell 2-3 points overnight on many of them.

If we overfeed the plants, the biota suffer. If we overfeed the biota, they don't need root exudates and they ignore what the plant wants.

"In tune" is best.
Click to expand...

Well said! I couldn't have put it any better!

"In Tune" That's the idea!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
Curso and I have been collaberating on how to kill our plants with too much feed. I doubled everything a few cycles ago, and got slightly lower brix and slightly worse taste. Curso has been trying all sorts of stuff to kill his plants.

Both of us have concluded that more isn't always better.

Follow directions until you learn what's what!
Click to expand...

It's 100% true more isn't always better. It's just good to know that what we are doing is pretty much nontoxic. Doc know's how extreme I have fed we wont talk about it. Trust me it's been very strong. Plants didn't suffer it didn't help anything either. Just stick with the plan, if there are any changes...Doc will let ya know, trust me.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

I see a good analogy here! Like children, you don't want to spoil them and make things too easy, they'll never be as strong and thrive in life how someone who was presented with challenges and had to earn everything they have!

So keeping the soil energy floating in the almost not enough, to 'just right' zone, will encourage the plant to tell the soil what it needs? And that to me seems like just what we want - plant and soil communication! Thank you all for being such damn smart stoners and sharing all this great info.
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

thanks for the info 3 pages back on what id need to amend compost i use, i use peat baste and got a bag of mych, its the dogget simpson bag1, ill have to read whats in it as ive not used it yet, but their feed guide says you mix a certain amount in with the compost when you plant the seeds, then its suppose to give the roots more surface area so it can take it more nutrients so should help speed up seedling stage,

just not tried it yet so ill see if that would be something i could use.

if i get plants as half as good as what you produce then ill be very happy, i do get the odd strain that does very well and covered in trichs but then other strains dont seem to do so well, you seem to always have consistent results so if my problem is the soil then its got to be worth adjusting,

all the best
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Sorry to keep bombing the thread guys but just got to the bottom of the small canister of cationic drench and saw lots of sediment, got out a new one and looked inside and it kinda looked like energy or transplant, dark colored but fairly thin. I smelled it and noted the aroma. I gave it a good shake for a minute to dissolve anything that had settled and looked back in. Way different. Much thicker. Very different smell as well. Much stronger fish smell after shaking that it really am digging. Not like I like the smell or anything, but it just smells way more potent and awesome. I'm thinking this is the real special sauce. Lol wish I had shaken my other little canister better while using it.

So just a tip for everyone: don't forget to shake it!

P.S.

It took a good shaking to get the sediment to dissolve, it was pretty caked on the bottom. Unless your cat drench is kinda thick and opaque - shake it!
 
re: Doc Bud - High Brix Q&A With Pictures

tavosvo said:
Sorry to keep bombing the thread guys but just got to the bottom of the small canister of cationic drench and saw lots of sediment, got out a new one and looked inside and it kinda looked like energy or transplant, dark colored but fairly thin. I smelled it and noted the aroma. I gave it a good shake for a minute to dissolve anything that had settled and looked back in. Way different. Much thicker. Very different smell as well. Much stronger fish smell after shaking that it really am digging. Not like I like the smell or anything, but it just smells way more potent and awesome. I'm thinking this is the real special sauce. Lol wish I had shaken my other little canister better while using it.

So just a tip for everyone: don't forget to shake it!

P.S.

It took a good shaking to get the sediment to dissolve, it was pretty caked on the bottom. Unless your cat drench is kinda thick and opaque - shake it!
Click to expand...

Cat Drench should be thick and creamy. You do have to shake it!
 
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