- Thread starter
- #7,741
One good spraying is probably gonna go a week. Try to cover the whole plant, in the early AM when the birds are singing.
Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures
- Thread starter Doc Bud
- Start date
One good spraying is probably gonna go a week. Try to cover the whole plant, in the early AM when the birds are singing.
Mansa Moosah
New Member
Hello. I have been following this thread for a while. How do you purchase a Hi Brix Kit?
Since you don't have enough posts to PM Doc, ask him here to PM you (although I'm thinking he already will).
- Thread starter
- #7,744
Please check your PM's
Mansa Moosah
New Member
I did but I can't reply back lol. I just created an account yesterday
Mansa Moosah
New Member
I found out where to purchase the kit. But my next question is what are the nutrient requirement/specs for a high Brix grow? what are the proper ratios of the certain minerals and elements? THanks for you help.
- Thread starter
- #7,748
The kit has everything you need except dirt and worm castings. Please do some reading!
The link in my signature "How to Use the Kit" will take you to a thread where you can learn a whole bunch.
- Thread starter
- #7,750
I read 3 journals before buying a kit...ahhh, the memories! Lmao
Judging by your recent photo's , it would appear that the kit is working for you! Unless you're cheating by adding some BudFactor X, or KushyKush in order to get 'em real nice....
flowerfarmer
Well-Known Member
Mansa Moosah
New Member
Direction are on page 55 of this thread
Thanks!
Mansa Moosah
New Member
I have read that thread about how to use the kit and I have a good understanding of how and why. I am trying to get more information on the reason for the ratios and proportions. Whats the scientific reason behind it? Forgive me if I am asking a question that has been addressed all ready. I have read through about 300 pages of threads in the last 2 days and may have overlooked it. I will read again.
- Thread starter
- #7,755
It's been discussed, but probably buried.
There is indeed a scientific reason for the ratio's. Dr's Reams and Albrecht did plenty of research and learned some characteristics of soils that produce nutrient dense crops. Summarizing their findings and simplifying to get the point across here's what they found comprises an ideal soil that will grow proteinaceous, nutrient dense crops:
1. Lot's of calcium. 5000 lbs + per acre. Ca/P ratio 18:1. P/K ratio 1:1, Ca/Mg ratio 7:1
2. Trace minerals present in adequate (trace) amounts, especially boron, molybdenum and manganese.
3. Humus content around 6%
4. Active, healthy biota
5. electrical energy at about 200 ERGs.
6. Adequate amounts of sulfur
7. Nothing in excess, especially sodium and aluminium.
This type of soil produces the highest protein, sugar and mineral content. There are a variety of ingredients that can be used to arrive at this destination, but none of it involves guess work. We use soil tests as our guide.
Some basics:
Too much organic matter chokes out the microbes and creates an environment for pathogens. Just because an animal crapped it out doesn't mean it's only helpful. Too much is definitely harmful.
Most people who add rock dust are adding too much sodium and potassium.....not that they would know without a soil test.
The best way to feed the soil is via foliar sprays and relatively weak nutrient drenches.
Compost is almost never appropriate with potting/nursery soils! Very poor, arid outdoor soils might benefit from compost, but commercial potting soils are never improved with compost, due to extremely high potassium levels.
A soil pH of about 6.4 is ideal. Mineralized soil needs no pH adjustment like hydroponics growers. The soil is a powerful buffer.
Basically, use the right soil, put some fish juice in it from time to time, spray well designed foliar products weekly, and have a good environment. That's what makes this:
MM, you might find this blog post a useful tool if you decide to grow High Brix: The Basics of Doc Bud's High Brix Blend Kit w/ Instructions - Blogs - 420 Magazine ®
Mansa Moosah
New Member
Thank you all. That was exactly what I was looking for.
Mansa Moosah
New Member
I love the concept of feeding the microbes and let them feed the plants. It makes so much since.
I'm probably not the only one confused by those ratios and percentages.
When you say 18:1 ratio of Calcium to Phosphorus, is that:
- 18 grams of Ca for every gram of Phosphorus, or
- 18 moles Ca/P, or
- something else, like 18 g of say, calcium carbonate per gram of elemental Phosphorus, for example?
As for percentages, do soil people use dry weight percents? volume percents? Are there standard soil moisture levels one should be close to in the moist components when following soil formulations?
It's probably buried back there somewhere but I've looked a few times and nothing has jumped out at me.
cheers!
- Thread starter
- #7,760
I'm probably not the only one confused by those ratios and percentages.
When you say 18:1 ratio of Calcium to Phosphorus, is that:
- 18 grams of Ca for every gram of Phosphorus, or
- 18 moles Ca/P, or
- something else, like 18 g of say, calcium carbonate per gram of elemental Phosphorus, for example?
As for percentages, do soil people use dry weight percents? volume percents? Are there standard soil moisture levels one should be close to in the moist components when following soil formulations?
It's probably buried back there somewhere but I've looked a few times and nothing has jumped out at me.
cheers!
They are based on weight; grams, lbs, kilograms...per acre.
As for the other questions, you've got me stumped. I don't know what "moist" components are either.
Could you please post your questions from a different angle so I can understand?