Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

My Man!!! :high-five: Yep large!!!

Man you guys are gonna have an awesome time, I'm quite jealous. If your all going back next year we are totally making the trip, the wife has already been warned :)

Burn one for me and have a great time :circle-of-love:
 
Very interesting discussion here. I am reading all this negative talk on compost and scratching my head. My first thought was all composts are not created equally and through somewhat intelligent planning of compost inputs, and method, you can create specific composts with nutrient profiles to your liking. Not recommending you do this, just saying I do and it can be done.

Intl Ag Labs guys obviously feel the same way you do Doc, I found some interesting reading when I was looking for an explanation to your viewpoint.
About High Brix Gardens | HighBrix Gardens
Seems these guys are saying the same thing and it goes into some detail as to why they feel that way.

I personally have checked out the high brix method you have here, and although it's not for me, I do find the large following impressive. And the buds and plants always look great.

I hope I'm not being to much of a bother, but I'd love clarity on this issue, synthetics in the kit. Doesn't the Kit have some synthetic ingredients in it? It seems that the use of some synthetic ingredients to boost soil fertility is in fact in line with the high brix ideology.

As far as the high brix kit compared to living organic soil, LOS, I think they are different. As is the TLO style of organic growing, for the record. It's all good, just for different kinda people. For one, if you're anti compost, don't use any kind of mulch, use some synthetics, utilize wet/dry cycles... The styles of growing we employ seem to drift far apart.

I'm not trying to persuade the high brix crew here to change your ways, I have nothing for sale, I am not officially representing LOS here in any function. I have much respect for the community as a whole and each and every member of it. I look at things a little different is all, and reading the last few pages felt compelled to share my opinion and add to the discussion.

Maybe someone will mail me an old refractometer and instructions and we could test some organic (in untested soil) plant's brix levels in the leaves for curiosities sake.

Btw they are testing the CC soil mix sue posted above and apparently it tests very well with a Morgan test.
 
Just curious. Isn't it considering mulching when we recycle our plants back into the soil for the next run? I understand its not the same as throwing all kinds of stuff in the soil like a traditional mulch pile in the back yard but same basic principal or no?
 
Damn, Doc....I like your entertainment style....right up my alley...you're good people, for sure.
 
Just curious. Isn't it considering mulching when we recycle our plants back into the soil for the next run? I understand its not the same as throwing all kinds of stuff in the soil like a traditional mulch pile in the back yard but same basic principal or no?

Yes it is. But was also will commonly mulch are soil as we are growing with either dry mulches like barley or rotting leaves, or living nitrogen fixing mulch such as clover. We trim the living mulch and drop it onto the soil surface, mimicking the collection of litter in nature which is ultimately converted into humic substances by the biota.
 
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Just a few reasons why we love High Brix right there! Not to mention several others whos produce is just as amazing. Oh and 3 of the plants of the year were grown using Docs kit...

Your argument is invalid here :)

Understandable. We share a passion for beautiful organically grown plants with high quality fruit. We come at the end from different directions, but we are both approaching the same goal.
 
Very interesting discussion here. I am reading all this negative talk on compost and scratching my head. My first thought was all composts are not created equally and through somewhat intelligent planning of compost inputs, and method, you can create specific composts with nutrient profiles to your liking. Not recommending you do this, just saying I do and it can be done.

Intl Ag Labs guys obviously feel the same way you do Doc, I found some interesting reading when I was looking for an explanation to your viewpoint.
About High Brix Gardens | HighBrix Gardens
Seems these guys are saying the same thing and it goes into some detail as to why they feel that way.

I personally have checked out the high brix method you have here, and although it's not for me, I do find the large following impressive. And the buds and plants always look great.

I hope I'm not being to much of a bother, but I'd love clarity on this issue, synthetics in the kit. Doesn't the Kit have some synthetic ingredients in it? It seems that the use of some synthetic ingredients to boost soil fertility is in fact in line with the high brix ideology.

As far as the high brix kit compared to living organic soil, LOS, I think they are different. As is the TLO style of organic growing, for the record. It's all good, just for different kinda people. For one, if you're anti compost, don't use any kind of mulch, use some synthetics, utilize wet/dry cycles... The styles of growing we employ seem to drift far apart.

I'm not trying to persuade the high brix crew here to change your ways, I have nothing for sale, I am not officially representing LOS here in any function. I have much respect for the community as a whole and each and every member of it. I look at things a little different is all, and reading the last few pages felt compelled to share my opinion and add to the discussion.

Maybe someone will mail me an old refractometer and instructions and we could test some organic (in untested soil) plant's brix levels in the leaves for curiosities sake.

Btw they are testing the CC soil mix sue posted above and apparently it tests very well with a Morgan test.

There are no synthetics in my gear, unless you consider simple, natural salts of trace elements synthetic. Everything else is organic or a small ground up rock.

I'm not anti-compost......I'm pro-balanced soil. Compost is far too high in potassium for the Promix. Sure, plants will grow.....but the difference between a plant with calcium in the cell walls and one that is substituting potassium is pretty stark.....so we don't use compost.

There are some soils that require compost, especially sandy soils in arid regions, but Promix and most potting soils are already way too high in potassium. It's just a fact, and the fact won't change regardless of ideology.

The bottom line is that growing this crop is a fantastic hobby/profession and all of us are free to grow as we see fit in a way that pleases us!
 
Just curious. Isn't it considering mulching when we recycle our plants back into the soil for the next run? I understand its not the same as throwing all kinds of stuff in the soil like a traditional mulch pile in the back yard but same basic principal or no?

I believe composting is a better term.....Dr. Reams taught that cover crops were especially useful and he referred to composting the crop back into the soil it will be grown in next time as "tuning." He taught that by composting leaves, roots and stems back into the soil they were grown in the soil can be "tuned" for that specific crop.

So, if we use Ream's dictionary, we're Tuning the soil. If we use Webster's dictionary we're composting......composting with the same crop is tuning......

The difference is we don't put kitchen scraps, yard clippings, store bought compost or that type of thing in the soil.
 
It's interesting how our different approaches to the soil apparently give us comparable results. What I find so intriguing is we have created the same type of soil communities to raise our plants, but we have achieved this with such different mediums. The drive for life amazes me.

With no-till you simply cut the stem above the surface and let the roots and leftover stalk eventually become part of the soil medium again. Do any of you practice HB in a no-till setting? Would HB be computable with no-till?

I don't have space for a decent compost pile. I prefer my composting be done by my worm bin. High quality EWC that I can guide by what I offer the bin.
 
It's interesting how our different approaches to the soil apparently give us comparable results. What I find so intriguing is we have created the same type of soil communities to raise our plants, but we have achieved this with such different mediums. The drive for life amazes me.

With no-till you simply cut the stem above the surface and let the roots and leftover stalk eventually become part of the soil medium again. Do any of you practice HB in a no-till setting? Would HB be computable with no-till?

I don't have space for a decent compost pile. I prefer my composting be done by my worm bin. High quality EWC that I can guide by what I offer the bin.

Hey Sue, what I do.....and a few others....is thus:

After harvest we dump the root ball and trimmings and all the dirt back into barrels, re-amend with minerals (depending on how many runs the soil has) and fresh EWC and in days all the roots and leaves are digested back into the soil. We let this "cook" (compost) for 28 days (month) and then use the soil again.

It involves "tilling" but the end result is all that organic matter gets put back into the soil to feed the biota. I'm not at all against "tilling."
Agriculture=civilization afterall......

However, till or no till, we've got to get minerals and trace elements back into our soils! Compost is everywhere! Manure's are carried by every hardware store and garden shop. There is no lack whatsoever of organic material in our soils. What they do lack is minerals.

Organic matter over 10% in most soils will kill the microbes....but these same microbes have no problem living and thriving in rocky soils, volcanic soils and glacial run-off soils.....even though no animal has defecated there and no compost has been put down.

Minerals! I don't care how you arrive at mineralized soil.....but you simply can't grow nutrient dense produce without the minerals. It just ain't possible!
 
Agreed. Which is why LOS is such a mineralized soil mix.
 
After the cup "high brix by DocBud" will be out of the bag. Then theyll understand :)

I'm pretty sure we already understand. It's an amazing system. No hesitation in confirming that.
 
My expectations are that I will be an "also ran." I do not expect to win....it's my first time!

However, I will definitely be raising the bar, and I'm looking forward to the lab results, which I should have next week after the cup.

How does the cup process work? I didn't know it was open to individual growers. I assume you will be representing the hi-brix method?
 
How does the cup process work? I didn't know it was open to individual growers. I assume you will be representing the hi-brix method?

I submitted 10 four gram pouches of my product. They give it a random number and it goes to the lab and the judges. I'm told the judging is blind and fair.....

Judges rate 1-5 on taste, burn ability, smell, effect, etc. This makes up 70% of the total score, with the lab results making up the other 30%. HIghest scores win.

I'm representing myself but I have a sponsor. There is no "High Brix Method" per se.....what you see here on this forum is us....we're all figuring it out as we go, so to speak.

However, my entry is from "Doc Bud's HiBrix Blend" and my description of how it was grown is the same.....but that's all me. No method.

Should some miracle occur and I place.....look out. But I'm hoping for a good lab result and a motivation to do better next time.
 
With baited breath, we're all behind you, Doc!!:cheertwo:
 
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