Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

DrZiggy said:
You may need to keep it in a safe, out of your reach place, until then...you dont want to run out. So, I am volunteering to be the Keeper of the Bud
:rofl:
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Well, my expectation is that I'll be an "also ran." I have ZERO political clout, don't know any of the big players and haven't bought thousands of dollars of ad space and vendor space.

On the other hand, there are several people in my life who have been to the cup, seen the winners, etc. They all say my stuff is better.....probably just trying to make me feel good.

DrZiggy said:
I cant wait to hear/read the response of the Judges when they sample your Magically Grown entry :)
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Worst case scenario, I just get all the testing data back, which I'll share here.

My goal is to immerse myself in what's being done, expose myself to other methods and ideas....basically see what's up in the Cannabis world.
 
Im sure if theyre judging on the smoke alone and nothing to do with the politics of the industry, youll win Doc!

On another note...I have an afghan kush special going on 12/12 from seed. Shes just pushing pistils and probably has another 2 weeks before the first cat drench. I just transplanted into her final pot so what id like to know is if its still necessary to use the recharge and if so, when would you think would be the best time? Thanks doc
 
neikodog said:
Doc, I have been trying to get through this complete thread so I don't ask questions that have been asked a hundred times, but reading about all the benefits of high brix got me wondering, so I'll ask. I see how much more viable your clones are and it got me thinking, would seed quality also be improved if you bred 2 high brix plants?
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I think Curso made OPP with 2 kit plants. GSC and GDP? If im correct and he did do two hb plants then YES!!! the seed quality is definitely improved :)
 
scrubby said:
Im sure if theyre judging on the smoke alone and nothing to do with the politics of the industry, youll win Doc!

On another note...I have an afghan kush special going on 12/12 from seed. Shes just pushing pistils and probably has another 2 weeks before the first cat drench. I just transplanted into her final pot so what id like to know is if its still necessary to use the recharge and if so, when would you think would be the best time? Thanks doc
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I'd wait until she's been in the final container for about a month.
 
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Such beautiful plants.
Hello again,
just wanted to tell you that the transplant treatment on the yellowing plant was succesful. Now she looks even better than the rest :bravo: I couldn´t take the time to take a shot, but it definitely worked.

So basically we charged the ground with N right?. N from Chilean nitrate( both forms of N) and EWC. Also the EWC gives CEC, so that the ammonium mols (NH4+) get fixed to the soil. Do I get it right? Just want to discuss a bit.

Cheerz.
 
Engorage said:
Such beautiful plants.
Hello again,
just wanted to tell you that the transplant treatment on the yellowing plant was succesful. Now she looks even better than the rest :bravo: I couldn´t take the time to take a shot, but it definitely worked.

So basically we charged the ground with N right?. N from Chilean nitrate( both forms of N) and EWC. Also the EWC gives CEC, so that the ammonium mols (NH4+) get fixed to the soil. Do I get it right? Just want to discuss a bit.

Cheerz.
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kinda sorta.....the Transplant drench is specifically designed for the microbial culture. It's mostly liquid fish, with some Chilean Nitrate and trace elements. As such, only the nitrate is available to the plant....but your problem wasn't nitrogen deprivation, your problem was that the plant outgrew what the roots were able to keep up with for one reason or other.

So, the extreme dose of tea (very acidic) and the Transplant recolonized your rootzone.

CEC is all well and good, but healthy roots are required to make it all work.

When the soil isn't designed right---home built soil has this problem all the time---sometimes we need to use Calcium Nitrate to get everything going, as low calcium and high potassium will mess up CEC and cause all kinds of problems. But your situation was a bit different.

BTW, this happens to me from time to time and it is "normal" when we try to grow plants in small containers. "Small" to me is less than 50 gallons.
 
Oh I see. For some reason, I assumed chilean nitrate = ammonium nitrate; its actually NaNO3.
And it makes sense, as this growing method uses a biological approach.

So I wonder, the acidification of the soil should also influence the bacteria to fungus population ratio, as the last ones thrive in acidic conditions, partly as consequence of the carboxilic acids released by this organisms. This could also have an impact on the plant system development ,as fungi dominated soils also have higher NH3+ to NO3- availability . This could be used to our advantage when we want to change the balance of the soil via cat drench.

When I get independent access to the microbiology lab (I hope next year), I will be sure to conduct some tests on HB soil microorganism composition.

Once again, thank you very much. Since I started following this threads, I´ve met my old self and have become highly proactive in terms of my curiosity for the natural world. I will try my hardest to add knowledge to the development of this approach.

:Namaste:
 
Engorage said:
Oh I see. For some reason, I assumed chilean nitrate = ammonium nitrate; its actually NaNO3.
And it makes sense, as this growing method uses a biological approach.

So I wonder, the acidification of the soil should also influence the bacteria to fungus population ratio, as the last ones thrive in acidic conditions, partly as consequence of the carboxilic acids released by this organisms. This could also have an impact on the plant system development ,as fungi dominated soils also have higher NH3+ to NO3- availability . This could be used to our advantage when we want to change the balance of the soil via cat drench.

When I get independent access to the microbiology lab (I hope next year), I will be sure to conduct some tests on HB soil microorganism composition.

Once again, thank you very much. Since I started following this threads, I´ve met my old self and have become highly proactive in terms of my curiosity for the natural world. I will try my hardest to add knowledge to the development of this approach.

:Namaste:
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Your soil PH wasn't changed one little bit by that drench. It's locked at 6.4 and you'd need at least a cup of pool acid to make a change.

As for Cat Drench....you are correct. It uses the ammonia form of Nitrogen and the cations S and P.....all of which being cations stimulate reproductive growth. No change on pH however.

Ignore pH! Don't go there! (unless you're just curious and won't try to "fix" anything.)

The whole pH mythology is one of the worst pieces of misinformation that has caused misery for many soil growers!
 
Doc Bud said:
Your soil PH wasn't changed one little bit by that drench. It's locked at 6.4 and you'd need at least a cup of pool acid to make a change.

As for Cat Drench....you are correct. It uses the ammonia form of Nitrogen and the cations S and P.....all of which being cations stimulate reproductive growth. No change on pH however.

Ignore pH! Don't go there! (unless you're just curious and won't try to "fix" anything.)

The whole pH mythology is one of the worst pieces of misinformation that has caused misery for many soil growers!
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I´m sorry. I didn´t explain myself correctly maybe. I know the soil has got a ton buffers. I´ve read this whole thread and I know you emperically demonstrated the pH mythology in a well built soil (EA HB soil).
When I speak about acidification, I mean at ryzhosphere level, where the complex comunication between the roots and microfauna takes place. This is why I need the lab equipment, you can´t appreciate the changes in ph with a ph-meter or that kind of stuff. As well I wouldn´t dare adding something as phosphoric acid to mess the ionic balance up, but rather influencing directly on the soil composition (B/F ratio) by tweaking the conditions (ea, mulch).

In any case, I´m talking about future plans, now I just want my HB smoke asap. :volcano-smiley:
 
Engorage said:
I´m sorry. I didn´t explain myself correctly maybe. I know the soil has got a ton buffers. I´ve read this whole thread and I know you emperically demonstrated the pH mythology in a well built soil (EA HB soil).
When I speak about acidification, I mean at ryzhosphere level, where the complex comunication between the roots and microfauna takes place. This is why I need the lab equipment, you can´t appreciate the changes in ph with a ph-meter or that kind of stuff. As well I wouldn´t dare adding something as phosphoric acid to mess the ionic balance up, but rather influencing directly on the soil composition (B/F ratio) by tweaking the conditions (ea, mulch).

In any case, I´m talking about future plans, now I just want my HB smoke asap. :volcano-smiley:
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Ah.....we're kindred spirits! The only thing I would caution you about with regard to mulch is potassium levels. The Promix is borderline too high....which is the second round on the soil produces such good results. Leaf mulch, manure, compost......that sort of thing is usually way too high in K.

Try using roots and leaves from harvested high brix plants for humus content and don't go too far afield with mulching....but by all means EXPERIMENT.

We need people like you with the education to understand this stuff to get creative and raise the bar!
 
Some pics:

FWIW, I use a Canon Powershot SD 1200 set on "auto" for all my pictures. I have no idea how to do anything fancy...I just focus and shoot. No treatment to the photo's....they actually look pretty much like what you see here, including color and shine.

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...now, Doc...you're forgetting to admit to using that Photoshop "snow/sugar" effect on those plants...c'mon fess up...:laugh:


Seriously...your plants look absolutely fantastic...as usual. :thumb:
 
Thanks doc. I assume by the looks it with lights off and flash on? I was always worried the flash would bother them but its pretty clear your plants couldn't be happier :thumb:
 
SmokeyMcFly said:
Thanks doc. I assume by the looks it with lights off and flash on? I was always worried the flash would bother them but its pretty clear your plants couldn't be happier :thumb:
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Lights off, flash on.....I press and hold the button part way down to focus until I get two or more green boxes over the stuff I want to see.
 
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