Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

[Skybound]

General question for the hibrix group, are magnesium supplements increased as the grow ages in the hibrix kit? I am in the process of reformulating my hydroponic nutrient element levels and though I already have very good numbers, like better than all other nute brands, as some of you know, I am trying to take hydro into high brix territory and am really trying to dial in my feed numbers, so I collect whatever knowledge I can on this topic and when doing my level best to eviscerate the internet for any relating information about calcium, I stumbled onto some useful info about Magnesium and I would like some more clarity about it, so asking the high brix group about it would help me fill in the blanks on this topic.

 

[Duggan]

 

[Skybound]

Based upon the following excerpt from an article on Calcium and Magnesium, and the overall gist that high brix plants are loaded up with sucrose and other naturally produced sugars, my confidence that magnesium is one of the more critical elements that will determine the brix levels. Granted, the article did also state elsewhere that calcium and magnesium compete to be taken up by the roots, I can see the needs of Mag do increase with plant size and the demand is constant right to harvest. I've already discovered the joyous world of high sulfur in my harvests in that elevated sulfur content in the feed makes the buds super sweet smelling and the smoke tastes a lot sweeter too. I just never really gave much thought to how involved the magnesium was contributing to that process.

"
Calcium/Magnesium
Magnesium sulfate is fast-acting and highly soluble, and may be used safely on plant roots or as a foliar spray. Since it contains no nitrates, magnesium sulfate is an excellent choice during flowering. In fact, many “sugar” products designed specifically for flowering are loaded with magnesium sulfate.

The magnesium helps keep the sugars flowing all the way to the day of harvest, and the sulfates are an added bonus. Sulfate compounds actually help turn on flowering genes in the plant, contribute to aromas and hasten the ripening process.

One of the latest developments in magnesium nutrition is combining B-vitamins with a magnesium sulfate carrier. B-vitamins stimulate carbohydrate metabolism, producing abundant energy in the form of ATP molecules.

Magnesium, on the other hand, positions the ATP molecules so the energy can be released for plant growth and reproduction. In fact, the relationship between ATP and magnesium is so intimate that many biologists refer to ATP as magnesium-ATP.

Since B-vitamins work at the microscopic level, just a small amount of B-vitamins can have a positive effect on the function of magnesium, especially when the energy needs of the plants are greatest.
"

I'd still like to hear feedback from hibrix kit users about use of magnesium and/or sulfur. In my hydro feed, I have 2 sources of mag and many sources of sulfur. The joy of making your own nutrients from salts is that you literally have 100% control over the concentration of each element if you want to. This is why I no longer even use branded blends of salts and prefer to mix everything myself from scratch. I believe that I will not only perfect my feeding, but also achieve high(er) brix levels than any other hydro grower. I believe I won't be able to achieve the levels that you growers in the kits enjoy, but if I can achieve what you all consider average, that would still put me light years ahead of other hydro growers and also put my shitty hydro weed on par with average organic growers, no?

Another focal point of my philosophy is changeability. Let's say I do identify the perfect high brix feed for Pineapple Chuck. Whose to say that these numbers will work great for something that is more Sativa or more Indica leaning? With organics (the kit) growers have to settle for fairly close, but Skybound gets to tailor the feed to the plant, easily and in a matter of days or weeks at most. This level of control empowers me to advance my research and test my theories much quicker than can be done organically. Of course there are certain restrictions I need to make peace with such as nitrates, or brix levels, or other short comings, I just really enjoy all of the pros of hydro growing. I have mitigated ALL lifting with the exception of flipping pots and moving plants between rooms and I too religiously wash my harvests according to Doc Bud's bud washing practice. I pump everything in and once I'm done with it, I pump it right back out. I no longer buy liquid nutes at extensive price mark ups and have a life time supply of feed for less than $200.

 

[Mr. Magoo]

Based upon the following excerpt from an article on Calcium and Magnesium, and the overall gist that high brix plants are loaded up with sucrose and other naturally produced sugars, my confidence that magnesium is one of the more critical elements that will determine the brix levels. Granted, the article did also state elsewhere that calcium and magnesium compete to be taken up by the roots, I can see the needs of Mag do increase with plant size and the demand is constant right to harvest. I've already discovered the joyous world of high sulfur in my harvests in that elevated sulfur content in the feed makes the buds super sweet smelling and the smoke tastes a lot sweeter too. I just never really gave much thought to how involved the magnesium was contributing to that process.

"
Calcium/Magnesium
Magnesium sulfate is fast-acting and highly soluble, and may be used safely on plant roots or as a foliar spray. Since it contains no nitrates, magnesium sulfate is an excellent choice during flowering. In fact, many “sugar” products designed specifically for flowering are loaded with magnesium sulfate.

The magnesium helps keep the sugars flowing all the way to the day of harvest, and the sulfates are an added bonus. Sulfate compounds actually help turn on flowering genes in the plant, contribute to aromas and hasten the ripening process.

One of the latest developments in magnesium nutrition is combining B-vitamins with a magnesium sulfate carrier. B-vitamins stimulate carbohydrate metabolism, producing abundant energy in the form of ATP molecules.

Magnesium, on the other hand, positions the ATP molecules so the energy can be released for plant growth and reproduction. In fact, the relationship between ATP and magnesium is so intimate that many biologists refer to ATP as magnesium-ATP.

Since B-vitamins work at the microscopic level, just a small amount of B-vitamins can have a positive effect on the function of magnesium, especially when the energy needs of the plants are greatest.
"

I'd still like to hear feedback from hibrix kit users about use of magnesium and/or sulfur. In my hydro feed, I have 2 sources of mag and many sources of sulfur. The joy of making your own nutrients from salts is that you literally have 100% control over the concentration of each element if you want to. This is why I no longer even use branded blends of salts and prefer to mix everything myself from scratch. I believe that I will not only perfect my feeding, but also achieve high(er) brix levels than any other hydro grower. I believe I won't be able to achieve the levels that you growers in the kits enjoy, but if I can achieve what you all consider average, that would still put me light years ahead of other hydro growers and also put my shitty hydro weed on par with average organic growers, no?

Another focal point of my philosophy is changeability. Let's say I do identify the perfect high brix feed for Pineapple Chuck. Whose to say that these numbers will work great for something that is more Sativa or more Indica leaning? With organics (the kit) growers have to settle for fairly close, but Skybound gets to tailor the feed to the plant, easily and in a matter of days or weeks at most. This level of control empowers me to advance my research and test my theories much quicker than can be done organically. Of course there are certain restrictions I need to make peace with such as nitrates, or brix levels, or other short comings, I just really enjoy all of the pros of hydro growing. I have mitigated ALL lifting with the exception of flipping pots and moving plants between rooms and I too religiously wash my harvests according to Doc Bud's bud washing practice. I pump everything in and once I'm done with it, I pump it right back out. I no longer buy liquid nutes at extensive price mark ups and have a life time supply of feed for less than $200.

Very interesting stuff skybound! Hopefully Doc can help you with your questions on Mag. I’d love to see you succeed at High Brix Hydro.

 

[Mr. Magoo]

Gonna be mixing up another batch of soil today and was wondering if it would be ok cooking in totes in a shed? Maybe be later in the summer before I need much of it. Temps will get pretty high in there at times.

 

[Archiweedies]

Very interesting stuff skybound! Hopefully Doc can help you with your questions on Mag. I’d love to see you succeed at High Brix Hydro.

I second this man, it sounds like you are close to perfecting your own salt blend. Have you tested your Brix levels yet?

Gonna be mixing up another batch of soil today and was wondering if it would be ok cooking in totes in a shed? Maybe be later in the summer before I need much of it. Temps will get pretty high in there at times.

Hey Magoo, I can only repeat what I’ve seen in print which is higher temps will cause it to cook faster. Whether that means it will be okay to use or not, I can’t say.
I’ll be waiting for the more experienced guys to chime in so I can take notes buddy

 

[Skybound]

I second this man, it sounds like you are close to perfecting your own salt blend. Have you tested your Brix levels yet?

If this was directed at me, yes I have tested my brix and my average is at the very unimpressive level of about 7 brix which if I understand correctly is considered ass! Still, my plants surprisingly look good and healthy despite such a low brix. If nothing else though, I presume it can only get better, lol. I also got a special PH meter that measure in drops, and was able to measure the PH of the sap, and that is 6.1 which I understand is 3 tenths low. I now have a general idea of what I need to do to make the corrections needed to establish balance in the uptake and hopefully, high brix as a side effect.

 

[Graytail]

Gonna be mixing up another batch of soil today and was wondering if it would be ok cooking in totes in a shed? Maybe be later in the summer before I need much of it. Temps will get pretty high in there at times.

No bueno on the high temp shed. I don't remember the high limit, but it's in the 110 degree range. If you're sure it won't break 90, you're probably fine, but high temps will screw with the biota.

 

[Mr. Magoo]

No bueno on the high temp shed. I don't remember the high limit, but it's in the 110 degree range. If you're sure it won't break 90, you're probably fine, but high temps will screw with the biota.

Thank you! I’ll just have to make room in the house! Lol. That is becoming increasingly more difficult.

 

[medmanmike]

Ok Brixers, need a clarification on using ReCharge.

On Doc's HiBrix site, ReCharge page, it states: "Our 1 LB package provides up to 6 applications."

But on Amazon it says: "Application: Scratch 1 TBSP into surface of garden soil around established plants."

Now, the latter is also stated on Doc's site for "non-kit users" at the 1 TBSP rate. I believe the correct amount is the 1 lb for 6 plants, but just want to be sure given the discrepancy. (This could be confusing for new users...)

 

[Amy Gardner]

@Skybound What youre doing sounds amazing and it seems you’ve got it going really well so far. Like Magoo said, hopefully Doc has some insight for you - but for most of the rest of us well, i know i dont speak for everyone, but most of us are here using the kit so that we don’t have to figure out stuff like what youre doing! We know that Doc has done all that research and dev for us So most of us are gong to think.. Mg? Yeah, Doc has that really well balanced in the kit now, and if it’s a demanding plant we can use Snake Oil for added micronutrients (but the need is rare and requires tiny amounts). So personally I read your posts and have a dual response of “wow that’s admirable!” and “wow I’m so glad i dont have to think about that!”
There will be a few who understand the fine details of what you’re doing in terms of ratios etc. but not many... we happy lazy HBB brixfits

 

[Skybound]

@Skybound What youre doing sounds amazing and it seems you’ve got it going really well so far. Like Magoo said, hopefully Doc has some insight for you - but for most of the rest of us well, i know i dont speak for everyone, but most of us are here using the kit so that we don’t have to figure out stuff like what youre doing! We know that Doc has done all that research and dev for us So most of us are gong to think.. Mg? Yeah, Doc has that really well balanced in the kit now, and if it’s a demanding plant we can use Snake Oil for added micronutrients (but the need is rare and requires tiny amounts). So personally I read your posts and have a dual response of “wow that’s admirable!” and “wow I’m so glad i dont have to think about that!”
There will be a few who understand the fine details of what you’re doing in terms of ratios etc. but not many... we happy lazy HBB brixfits

Are you politely asking me not to post my questions here?

 

[Graytail]

Ok Brixers, need a clarification on using ReCharge.

On Doc's HiBrix site, ReCharge page, it states: "Our 1 LB package provides up to 6 applications."

But on Amazon it says: "Application: Scratch 1 TBSP into surface of garden soil around established plants."

Now, the latter is also stated on Doc's site for "non-kit users" at the 1 TBSP rate. I believe the correct amount is the 1 lb for 6 plants, but just want to be sure given the discrepancy. (This could be confusing for new users...)

The correct dose for ReCharge is the entire pound distributed over 42 gallons of soil (six 7 gallon pots). In my 6 gallon pots, that amounts to more than 1 TBSP - more like 3-4?

 

[Amy Gardner]

Are you politely asking me not to post my questions here?

Totally not that! Not at all

 

[Duggan]

Wat Amy said Sky,...we want you to stay and let Doc explain his ideas on the subject. I'm sure many already know Doc is well educated on this and is prolly bin too busy to properly respond to Sky's questions.
Cheers Amy, Sky and gang.
Also , Gray said it right....just take the bag of ReCharge which is good for one kits worth of soil ...or one 3.8 cu ft. bale of ProMix. Just mix it up really good and divide it by how many pots you have going on with that much soil and apply with a small scoop , spoon , etc. Scratch that in the top ;layer , gently , as to not damage surface roots, also spread some EWC's at this time . Water all this in ....done. Cheers Gray , gang.

 

[Archiweedies]

Thank you! I’ll just have to make room in the house! Lol. That is becoming increasingly more difficult.

I know what ya mean Magoo! Thanks Gray for the knowledge.

 

[pookss]

The correct dose for ReCharge is the entire pound distributed over 42 gallons of soil (six 7 gallon pots). In my 6 gallon pots, that amounts to more than 1 TBSP - more like 3-4?

To piggyback off of the ReCharge talk, What has been your personal dates for applying recharge graytail? do you reapply for longer flowerings?

 

[Duggan]

 

[Doc Bud]

Are you politely asking me not to post my questions here?

Hi Skybound,

A Brix of 7 is about right for hydroponics. I seem to recall a reading of 10 on a particularly good crop of Hydro SFV OG a few years ago, but most folks are getting 5-7 in hydro.

Why? Well, it turns out that roots prefer microbial action and soil over passive absorption of salts. It's simply impossible to get nutrient density from hydroponics. Believe me, I'd be a hydro guy today if it were possible. I'd love to not have to deal with all this dirt......

The particular problems with hydro when it comes to High Brix/Nutrient Density are:

1. Calcium. It can't be taken up passively by water roots very well. This means that cell walls have formed with potassium, not calcium. It also means that proteins cannot be formed in hydro. Sugars can and do form in hydro, but not proteins so much. In soil, we need 18 times more calcium than potassium/phosphorus for High Brix. Not only is this impossible in hydro, I think you'd kill your plants if you tried. pH would be sky high for starters.

2. Root morphology. Hydro features lots of water roots. Proper soil features fine roots hairs, many of them barely visible to the naked eye. Fine root hairs allow for massive amounts of surface area to interface with mycorhyzza. Even though Hydro features a bucket of roots, it's the root hairs that actually increase the surface area, not the water roots.

3. Microbial action. This is very, very tricky in hydro, and even if you did manage to keep something "living" in your resevoir, it wouldn't be at all the same as what we can do in properly designed soil.

If it's yield per square foot you're after.....Hydro is the clear winner. It's also much easier to manage on a perpetual basis, not requiring lugging about barrels of dirt, let alone disposing of them.

Hydro also features about a 2 week shorter growing cycle (or more) due to the fact that the plant need not spend tons of time growing roots.

There are also a very small handful of strains that clearly do not produce what people want and expect unless grown in hydro......SFV OG is one of them as are a few more of the Chemdawg progeny.

Perhaps it's time for you to try some High Brix produce? It'll learn ya just fine.

 

[Mr. Krip]

Hi Skybound,

A Brix of 7 is about right for hydroponics. I seem to recall a reading of 10 on a particularly good crop of Hydro SFV OG a few years ago, but most folks are getting 5-7 in hydro.

Why? Well, it turns out that roots prefer microbial action and soil over passive absorption of salts. It's simply impossible to get nutrient density from hydroponics. Believe me, I'd be a hydro guy today if it were possible. I'd love to not have to deal with all this dirt......

The particular problems with hydro when it comes to High Brix/Nutrient Density are:

1. Calcium. It can't be taken up passively by water roots very well. This means that cell walls have formed with potassium, not calcium. It also means that proteins cannot be formed in hydro. Sugars can and do form in hydro, but not proteins so much. In soil, we need 18 times more calcium than potassium/phosphorus for High Brix. Not only is this impossible in hydro, I think you'd kill your plants if you tried. pH would be sky high for starters.

2. Root morphology. Hydro features lots of water roots. Proper soil features fine roots hairs, many of them barely visible to the naked eye. Fine root hairs allow for massive amounts of surface area to interface with mycorhyzza. Even though Hydro features a bucket of roots, it's the root hairs that actually increase the surface area, not the water roots.

3. Microbial action. This is very, very tricky in hydro, and even if you did manage to keep something "living" in your resevoir, it wouldn't be at all the same as what we can do in properly designed soil.

If it's yield per square foot you're after.....Hydro is the clear winner. It's also much easier to manage on a perpetual basis, not requiring lugging about barrels of dirt, let alone disposing of them.

Hydro also features about a 2 week shorter growing cycle (or more) due to the fact that the plant need not spend tons of time growing roots.

There are also a very small handful of strains that clearly do not produce what people want and expect unless grown in hydro......SFV OG is one of them as are a few more of the Chemdawg progeny.

Perhaps it's time for you to try some High Brix produce? It'll learn ya just fine.