Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures

Doc Bud said:
Put all your worry, fear, energy and effort into getting the environment dialed in. The soil will care for your plants. You won't fix anything by adding this or that, drenching, spraying.....etc.

On the other hand....if you get the environment right you'll fix everything.

One last word of advice: Instead of questioning what you read in the instructions, try to follow it instead.
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Thts what I'm trying to do but things were slightly confusing between what was online the pamphlet an the bottle. But yea working on doing tht an so far I got the rh% up to 40 to 44% at lights on and 36% at lights off. And temps 80 to 83 lights on an 70 to 73 lights off. So I think thts pretty good or am I wrong.
 
Also sorry for asking so many questions I'm jus not like every1 else it's harder for me to learn an retain what I learn plus I've always had issues trying to understand shit being told to me I was better with being able 2 see it done first then go to do it but here I gotta be told an then go do it lol but yea I'm having to train myself anew way to learn how to do stuff so sorry guys if its frustrating hearing me askn so many dumb questions. From here on out I'll jus try an go with my gut and see what all I've learned. Thanx again guys for all the help so far with everything I really appreciate it.
 
Blazin..no worriez about asking questions ok. Doc/we just like to see newer kit users try and follow the directions and do some reading before the questions start flying. .thats all.Cheers man.
 
Doc Bud said:
One last word of advice: Instead of questioning what you read in the instructions, try to follow it instead.
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Yes, please, everyone. :confused:

There's only so much you can do, when you're merely looking over someone's shoulder, and not even in person. So > instructions. :)

They'll turn out as well as they can, given the grower's knowledge and skills. When we start customizing the schedule, we aren't necessarily helping, 'cause we aren't there, can't look at them, don't know the unknown, etc.

Best practice is to follow the instructions, especially on the first run. Unless it's a private "consultation", we should concentrate on explaining the instructions, and try to avoid customizing them for a particular grow.

:Namaste:
 
Blazinjones said:
Thts what I'm trying to do but things were slightly confusing between what was online the pamphlet an the bottle. But yea working on doing tht an so far I got the rh% up to 40 to 44% at lights on and 36% at lights off. And temps 80 to 83 lights on an 70 to 73 lights off. So I think thts pretty good or am I wrong.
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The higher the temps, the higher the rH must be. With daytime temps of 80 degrees rH would be great around 60. 50 will do. You're pushing it with 44.....but if you lowered the daytime temps to 78, you'd be better.

I'd like to see your night rH at about 50 as well. Absent that, if it was say 68 degrees, your plants would cope better with the low humidity.
 
Graytail said:
Yes, please, everyone. :confused:

There's only so much you can do, when you're merely looking over someone's shoulder, and not even in person. So > instructions. :)

They'll turn out as well as they can, given the grower's knowledge and skills. When we start customizing the schedule, we aren't necessarily helping, 'cause we aren't there, can't look at them, don't know the unknown, etc.

Best practice is to follow the instructions, especially on the first run. Unless it's a private "consultation", we should concentrate on explaining the instructions, and try to avoid customizing them for a particular grow.

:Namaste:
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“we should concentrate on explaining the instructions”

Very good point GT, I like it. It’s very easy to help a person new to the kit, apply things the way “I” do it, but that is not necessarily following the instructions. Anyone here long enough has tweeked things here and there to augment or compensate for their environment or other conditions. And that may not fit someone else’s situation, especially a new kit user.
 
Hello everyone, I have a question regarding the environmental setup in my grow tent. How important is getting fresh air into the grow area? Currently, if I do not run the exhaust or intake fans, I can achieve ideal temp and humidity. If I run either of those, humidity drops and my humidifier has trouble keeping ideal RH. I do have oscillating fans to move air inside the tent, and I imagine some fresh air enters passively. What do you all think?
 
1bean said:
Hello everyone, I have a question regarding the environmental setup in my grow tent. How important is getting fresh air into the grow area? Currently, if I do not run the exhaust or intake fans, I can achieve ideal temp and humidity. If I run either of those, humidity drops and my humidifier has trouble keeping ideal RH. I do have oscillating fans to move air inside the tent, and I imagine some fresh air enters passively. What do you all think?
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In that kind of situation, a Co2 tank is great. It doesn't increase temps, but will give the plants fresh "air."

Exchanging the air every hour or so in the tent will help. A small muffin fan might do this, so will a regular fan on a timer.
 
1bean said:
Hello everyone, I have a question regarding the environmental setup in my grow tent. How important is getting fresh air into the grow area? Currently, if I do not run the exhaust or intake fans, I can achieve ideal temp and humidity. If I run either of those, humidity drops and my humidifier has trouble keeping ideal RH. I do have oscillating fans to move air inside the tent, and I imagine some fresh air enters passively. What do you all think?
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Doc Bud said:
In that kind of situation, a Co2 tank is great. It doesn't increase temps, but will give the plants fresh "air."

Exchanging the air every hour or so in the tent will help. A small muffin fan might do this, so will a regular fan on a timer.
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This is what I do Bean, I run a small CO2 tank in addition to my exhaust fans that come on intermittently when needed. I’m not in a tent, but the same concept. This time of year I don’t have to exhaust very much, lights provide enough heat during the “day” and a small heater set at 69-70f at “night” (lights off). Watering the plants provides some humidity, but I could use more. I get the 20lbs tank filled each month for $22, and only run it lights on.
 
My tents are in an enclosed room. I think I will just put an exhaust fan from tent into room. Heater should not run much harder and I think the humidity spike should flatten out.
 
It's much, much harder to manage a small airspace compared to a large one.

We do what we need to do, but we should always grow in the largest space possible.....key word being possible.

Cute and small doesn't cut it.....we want high cielings and lots of square footage.
 
Hey Doc - seeing as you’re here right about now. I have a question that’s come out of a discussion elsewhere on the boards about nutes and PH (and not checking pH of input nutes etc.) which is now in the territory of discussing types of Nitrogen (a conversation that’s likely ‘old-hat’ to you these days! - second nature at least ;) ).

Do you know, and can you say,
Archiweedies said:
what type of Nitogen [ammonium-N or nitrate-N] is [likely to be the most prevalent] in earthworm castings?
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(@Archiweedies)
:Namaste:
 
With the tents being reflective what effect would it have to remove the tents and hang lights from ceiling? Thinking would need to add more lights.
 
Hi Meds....have an idea for you i used years ago when making a quick portable type grow room.
Yes...without a tent can work most awesome....you know that 1/8th inch thick masonary board.....comes in 4x8 sheets like plywood. . ..well u can get that stuff white on one side. It can be cut in half or whatever ,and simply hung wherever suits your needs with a couple pcs of string or wire... its very light weight and it works awesome. What i did was hang two sheets on either side and cut another one in half for the ends....presto.....a grow room in less than an hr.......that stuff is available pretty cheap at any big box store too.!!
You like??
 
Amy Gardner said:
Hey Doc - seeing as you’re here right about now. I have a question that’s come out of a discussion elsewhere on the boards about nutes and PH (and not checking pH of input nutes etc.) which is now in the territory of discussing types of Nitrogen (a conversation that’s likely ‘old-hat’ to you these days! - second nature at least ;) ).

Do you know, and can you say,
(@Archiweedies)
:Namaste:
Click to expand...
Organic nitrogen---stuff that comes out of an animal or from a decaying animal or other organic matter---is NH3....the ammoniacal form of nitrogen. Urea breaks down to this form as well....being "organic." (using the non-political version of the word organic here)

Nitrates occur in rock and clay deposits or are manufactured.

So.....EWC has a the NH3 form.....mostly. If the dirt that goes in one end and comes out the other is also rich in CaNo3 (calcium nitrate) then the worm castings will also have some of that.

But we aren't really using the castings as a source of NPK. We use them to increase CEC, provide a long term slow-release source of nutrients and soil energy and also to help the biota.

As for pH....ignore it. It's a fool's practice to worry and fret over the pH of soil. There are so many buffers in the soil that a few drops of Sodium Hydroxide (Lye or pH up) or Phosphoric Acid (pH-down) won't change a damn thing!

The soil is either created with the proper pH or it is not.....with the sole exception of using aluminum sulphate to lower soil pH and make hydrangea's blue. You certainly don't want to do this to any food/medicine crop!

You can also lower pH "organically" by using elemental sulfur, but all this should be done when the soil is being amended.....

You don't change anything but massive overdose to the plant with something it doesn't need if you try to "pH" your feed water, etc. It's mythology....the kind that isn't true.

Obviously, Hydro and sterile mediums are different.
 
Of all the things you describe, explain and teach us...i like your PH rants the best.:slide::high-five:
 
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