TripleBeam
Well-Known Member
Seeing this picture made me realize i had some damage from those buggers a few weeks ago. Temps are probably too cold for them now in my garage cause i don't see it anymore on my plants.FUNGUS-GNAT DAMAGE
Doc Bud's High Brix Q&A With Pictures
- Thread starter Doc Bud
- Start date
Gazoo
Member
You’re kidding!? Thanks @Gazoo - this is exactly what parts of it looks like on the Blue Dream. Well, not that bad but - that style exactlyIS that your plant Gaz?
OK so I know Doc says mosquito dunks. BUt I can’t get them here - what’s the active ingredient?
Sorry about not getting back sooner was at church
No not my plant but here is a link to the article showing that damage along with some
remedy's #1 being let soil dry to kill them, sounds like that could be the issue
How to get rid of Fungus Gnats
Thanks Gaz. My soil has actually been bone dry a few times though. Many folks have said that teh gnats shouldn’t be a problem - but I can think of nothing else, and yeh, that evidence is pretty conclusive.
CHeers Gazoo - i’ll Check that out.
Can’t get the mosquito dunks here, and the one product that has the Bacillus Thuringiensis in it is like $99. $20 shipping from the ‘bay for actual Mosquito Dunks doesnt sound so bad now
(EDIT: plus I just realised that it’s the wrong ‘strain’ of Bacillus - so I can’t actually get it here at all)
Maybe that article will give me other options. Although i know Doc ‘sanctions’ the Mozzi dunks - so i’ll buy them anyway.
CHeers Gazoo - i’ll Check that out.
Can’t get the mosquito dunks here, and the one product that has the Bacillus Thuringiensis in it is like $99. $20 shipping from the ‘bay for actual Mosquito Dunks doesnt sound so bad now
(EDIT: plus I just realised that it’s the wrong ‘strain’ of Bacillus - so I can’t actually get it here at all)Maybe that article will give me other options. Although i know Doc ‘sanctions’ the Mozzi dunks - so i’ll buy them anyway.
Thanks Gaz. My soil has actually been bone dry a few times though. Many folks have said that teh gnats shouldn’t be a problem - but I can think of nothing else, and yeh, that evidence is pretty conclusive.
CHeers Gazoo - i’ll Check that out.
Can’t get the mosquito dunks here, and the one product that has the Bacillus Thuringiensis in it is like $99. $20 shipping from the ‘bay for actual Mosquito Dunks doesnt sound so bad now
Maybe that article will give me other options. Although i know Doc ‘sanctions’ the Mozzi dunks - so i’ll buy them anyway.
Hi Amy,
Fungus gnats are an irritant for sure, but if you disrupt their life cycle they are easy to get rid of. I haven’t had any in a while. They need soil that is kept moist most of the time to proliferate. One way I found to be really effective is to scrap up the top 1-2 inches of soil in your pots and discard, but don’t go ripping up the root structure. Only go as deep as the root mass will allow up to 2 inches. Tearing apart the roots would have a negative effect. Then I drench/drink if it needs it, and replace the soil and maybe more if the pot will hold it with some cooked soil, but don’t wet it any more than it already is out of your storage tote. Then next time you drench or drink, remove the dry top soil, drench or drink, then replace the dry top soil. The idea is to take away the breeding/egg laying/ larvae wet soil they need to live. Yello Sticky traps will help with the adults, as will the leaf wash or neem oil.
Also when I notice my plants taking long times between watering, excluding the first watering after transplant, I up the TP amount to help grow the sluggish root structure, this is assuming your environment is dialed in. Ideally I “nip this in the bud” in the veg room, so when I flip, they don’t miss a beat. Every step/adjustment builds on the next.
Last grow I had some new clones with quite a reputation, a friend gifted to me. I grew them out untrained, using the basic instructions. The buds turned out great, but the plants were burnt by the end, slow drinkers all the way through, brix readings down, easy targets for thrips, which I seem to get every 6-8 months. The burn looked similar to nitrogen burn, but that is very hard to do with our kit, at recommended amounts. This second go round I doubled the TP drenched in veg and temps are down a few degrees since summer, back to my sweet spot (70f night/ 81f day) and they are loving life.
My point is there are many variables, and the first go around with a plant is sometimes tricky, in finding what it likes and doesn’t. Subsequent runs of the same plant allow one to dial it in, and a great tool to learn the kit.
Oh and with the thrips I use Spinosad, a certified organic insecticide based on the compound found in bacterial species Saccharopolyspora Spinosa. I only use this when I see the silvery tell tale spots on leaves that thrips make. I use it in my fruit orchards too. It is very effective, but they seem to come back every 6-8 months. I don’t spray mid to mature buds, only veg plants or plants that were flipped less than 20 days. This teamed up with leaf wash (not used together) keeps things in control.
Also note that stressed plants attract and are vulnerable to pests. Last week I had one photo stressed plant that seemed to have 90% of the thrips in my garden, all over it. The plants in the pictures above had very little. Last year in one of my side jobs, we were studying Emerald Ash Borers. In order to see how many are in an area, we find an ash tree in the forest, girdle it disrupting the phloem and xylem vascular systems, and set EAB traps. The EAB’s are attracted to the dying stressed tree, and we observe the infestation and trap contents, if there are any in the area. Same applies to our plants...the weak are easy targets.
Sorry for my rambling, hope this can help you
- Thread starter
- #20,645
Hi Amy,
Fungus gnats are an irritant for sure, but if you disrupt their life cycle they are easy to get rid of. I haven’t had any in a while. They need soil that is kept moist most of the time to proliferate. One way I found to be really effective is to scrap up the top 1-2 inches of soil in your pots and discard, but don’t go ripping up the root structure. Only go as deep as the root mass will allow up to 2 inches. Tearing apart the roots would have a negative effect. Then I drench/drink if it needs it, and replace the soil and maybe more if the pot will hold it with some cooked soil, but don’t wet it any more than it already is out of your storage tote. Then next time you drench or drink, remove the dry top soil, drench or drink, then replace the dry top soil. The idea is to take away the breeding/egg laying/ larvae wet soil they need to live. Yello Sticky traps will help with the adults, as will the leaf wash or neem oil.
Also when I notice my plants taking long times between watering, excluding the first watering after transplant, I up the TP amount to help grow the sluggish root structure, this is assuming your environment is dialed in. Ideally I “nip this in the bud” in the veg room, so when I flip, they don’t miss a beat. Every step/adjustment builds on the next.
Last grow I had some new clones with quite a reputation, a friend gifted to me. I grew them out untrained, using the basic instructions. The buds turned out great, but the plants were burnt by the end, slow drinkers all the way through, brix readings down, easy targets for thrips, which I seem to get every 6-8 months. The burn looked similar to nitrogen burn, but that is very hard to do with our kit, at recommended amounts. This second go round I doubled the TP drenched in veg and temps are down a few degrees since summer, back to my sweet spot (70f night/ 81f day) and they are loving life.
My point is there are many variables, and the first go around with a plant is sometimes tricky, in finding what it likes and doesn’t. Subsequent runs of the same plant allow one to dial it in, and a great tool to learn the kit.
Oh and with the thrips I use Spinosad, a certified organic insecticide based on the compound found in bacterial species Saccharopolyspora Spinosa. I only use this when I see the silvery tell tale spots on leaves that thrips make. I use it in my fruit orchards too. It is very effective, but they seem to come back every 6-8 months. I don’t spray mid to mature buds, only veg plants or plants that were flipped less than 20 days. This teamed up with leaf wash (not used together) keeps things in control.
Also note that stressed plants attract and are vulnerable to pests. Last week I had one photo stressed plant that seemed to have 90% of the thrips in my garden, all over it. The plants in the pictures above had very little. Last year in one of my side jobs, we were studying Emerald Ash Borers. In order to see how many are in an area, we find an ash tree in the forest, girdle it disrupting the phloem and xylem vascular systems, and set EAB traps. The EAB’s are attracted to the dying stressed tree, and we observe the infestation and trap contents, if there are any in the area. Same applies to our plants...the weak are easy targets.
Sorry for my rambling, hope this can help you
Very well said, DL.
Cheers Dopy! I’ve pretty much focused on everything you mention there. The top soil has actually stayed mostly dry, because of the gnats and knowing that about them. My temps are currently 68 overnight and 78-81 during the day. I was getting lower overnight temps earlier in veg but things were actually healthier then. Im scratching my head as to why they’re still around. The dry cycles have been really dry.
And thisnplant wasnt weak... it’s seemed thriving at times and this last surge of spots etc cane after the leafwash... and folks say gnats hate neem - but maybe the wet topsoil after the wash was enough to wake them up. It was super dry before it tho. And, well, it was neem, so
I honestly hardly ever see the gnats airborn so an surprises if they can have the effects I’m seeing but can’t think of anything else (and it like just like the beginnings of what Gaz posted).
Anyhoo - is what it is I guess. I feel like I’ve taken good care of those factors you mention.
Only thing I can think is all the pruning stresses it a bit and weakened it - and yes I used Destress around the pruning
Doc - are you suggesting there that these things are likely my issue? Or just that DL expressed all that well, regardless of how relevant it is to me?
Also - if I manage to get some mosquito dunks (or powdered Bacillus Thuringiensis), how do you recommend applying it?
(and shouldn’t I be sending you the cost of a soil test? Or does that clean after it’s done?)
And thisnplant wasnt weak... it’s seemed thriving at times and this last surge of spots etc cane after the leafwash... and folks say gnats hate neem - but maybe the wet topsoil after the wash was enough to wake them up. It was super dry before it tho. And, well, it was neem, so
I honestly hardly ever see the gnats airborn so an surprises if they can have the effects I’m seeing but can’t think of anything else (and it like just like the beginnings of what Gaz posted).
Anyhoo - is what it is I guess. I feel like I’ve taken good care of those factors you mention.
Only thing I can think is all the pruning stresses it a bit and weakened it - and yes I used Destress around the pruning
Doc - are you suggesting there that these things are likely my issue? Or just that DL expressed all that well, regardless of how relevant it is to me?
Also - if I manage to get some mosquito dunks (or powdered Bacillus Thuringiensis), how do you recommend applying it?
(and shouldn’t I be sending you the cost of a soil test? Or does that clean after it’s done?)
- Thread starter
- #20,647
Cheers Dopy! I’ve pretty much focused on everything you mention there. The top soil has actually stayed mostly dry, because of the gnats and knowing that about them. My temps are currently 68 overnight and 78-81 during the day. I was getting lower overnight temps earlier in veg but things were actually healthier then. Im scratching my head as to why they’re still around. The dry cycles have been really dry.
And thisnplant wasnt weak... it’s seemed thriving at times and this last surge of spots etc cane after the leafwash... and folks say gnats hate neem - but maybe the wet topsoil after the wash was enough to wake them up. It was super dry before it tho. And, well, it was neem, so
I honestly hardly ever see the gnats airborn so an surprises if they can have the effects I’m seeing but can’t think of anything else (and it like just like the beginnings of what Gaz posted).
Anyhoo - is what it is I guess. I feel like I’ve taken good care of those factors you mention.
Only thing I can think is all the pruning stresses it a bit and weakened it - and yes I used Destress around the pruning
Doc - are you suggesting there that these things are likely my issue? Or just that DL expressed all that well, regardless of how relevant it is to me?
Also - if I manage to get some mosquito dunks (or powdered Bacillus Thuringiensis), how do you recommend applying it?
(and shouldn’t I be sending you the cost of a soil test? Or does that clean after it’s done?)
I think your plants will be OK. Just keep them in the happy zone. I'll get that invoice out to you by and by....no rush as the soil test takes some time.
Hi Amy,Cheers Dopy! I’ve pretty much focused on everything you mention there. The top soil has actually stayed mostly dry, because of the gnats and knowing that about them. My temps are currently 68 overnight and 78-81 during the day. I was getting lower overnight temps earlier in veg but things were actually healthier then. Im scratching my head as to why they’re still around. The dry cycles have been really dry.
And thisnplant wasnt weak... it’s seemed thriving at times and this last surge of spots etc cane after the leafwash... and folks say gnats hate neem - but maybe the wet topsoil after the wash was enough to wake them up. It was super dry before it tho. And, well, it was neem, so
I honestly hardly ever see the gnats airborn so an surprises if they can have the effects I’m seeing but can’t think of anything else (and it like just like the beginnings of what Gaz posted).
Anyhoo - is what it is I guess. I feel like I’ve taken good care of those factors you mention.
Only thing I can think is all the pruning stresses it a bit and weakened it - and yes I used Destress around the pruning
Doc - are you suggesting there that these things are likely my issue? Or just that DL expressed all that well, regardless of how relevant it is to me?
Also - if I manage to get some mosquito dunks (or powdered Bacillus Thuringiensis), how do you recommend applying it?
(and shouldn’t I be sending you the cost of a soil test? Or does that clean after it’s done?)
I feel your pain, I get so many parts of the garden dialed in, but then I find some area out of control, then trying to diagnose it.
I go through it monthly.I hope I didn’t offend you. I never ment to assume you were not on top of things, your garden is lovely
Feel like sharing my 2 girls in flower now for just 18 days at 11/13. BCP is starting the frost while Sugar Canes buds are more robust!
SC
BCP
SC
BCP
Hi Amy,
I feel your pain, I get so many parts of the garden dialed in, but then I find some area out of control, then trying to diagnose it.
I hope I didn’t offend you. I never ment to assume you were not on top of things, your garden is lovely
more that I’m just scratching my head because I thought I was doing all the right things... I’m running the tent open during the day with the oscillating fan turned up more, maybe it’ll help the dry out. It was perky as all get-out again this morning! 23 days since transplant without a drench. I’ll run it like that - or at least run the fans harder after the next drench and see if that helps. I have air movement and exchange, but perhaps it’s not enough. Still looks pretty good though, regardless!
Still looks pretty good though, regardless!
Well... You have a reasonable plan.
And perky is good! She will be drinking before you know it.
With Doc system the buds seem to always come threw one way or another. Very forgiving!
I’m hittin the hay
DL
Feel like sharing my 2 girls in flower now for just 18 days at 11/13. BCP is starting the frost while Sugar Canes buds are more robust!
SC
BCP
Wow! Looks great Ween! Those are some happy plants!
Getting frosty over here Ween! Look at those ladies pray... nice and healthy for sure! Doing great work as always!
Gazoo
Member
Feel like sharing my 2 girls in flower now for just 18 days at 11/13. BCP is starting the frost while Sugar Canes buds are more robust!
SC
BCP
Dilly Dilly
cannaruss
Well-Known Member
I had an issue like that and it was my soil being way to acidic
Hey Doc, I want to treat these gnats i have, because even with a 2inch dry topsoil most of the time, I still have them.
Can’t get Mosquito Dunks here bit I have sourced BTi in powder form:
DO you have any guidance on how I should mix it into the water when I Drench? And will it be ok to just add it (dissolved) into the drenches? The person I’m buying it from has a quantity guide that will come with it apparently. I am just checking if you have any specific thoughts. I know you’ve just used dunks in your water supply before - that suggests it doesnt take much.
Oki cool - was expecting you’d need dollars before getting the test going so didnt want to be delaying things by not having paid yet! Thanks heaps. I’m very curious...
LaquerHead
Well-Known Member
Not to steer you in a different direction..but to be honest, the dunks barely made a difference regarding my gnat population. They could have helped I suppose (they probably did a bit), but my observations clearly favored the dry mulch/sticky traps/direct flow from fan over the dunks! If they were only $10-15 a bottle I'd say go for it, but $100 is insane to spend on some BTI. Ig what im saying is I'm not sure they're worth that! Good luck gettimg rid of them
Cherries Jubilee
Active Member
Holy hell do these guys ever perform under even just an entry-grade LED. Started on 18/6 not even 2 days ago yet and they're waaaay far ahead of "Stick em in dirt on the windowsill". I knew they would but it's still crazy to watch. They must be growing 10x faster from seed at least and no more "spindly" so far.
I also just realized yesterday that after I order the kit, I'm still gonna have to cook the soil etc for a month before using it.. so I guess it'll be early Dec at the earliest before I'm able to start with it. Bummer man. Also learned that since they took height restrictions out of legislation here in Canada, the tradeoff there was a max of 4 plants per house instead of 4 per person per house... double bummer.
But here's some pics of my starter, temp veg area anyways, backyard soil only test run! Aside from maybe lining it w/ white poly, and it's kind of small (though we may only be able to do 2 veg 2 flower, might work out ok) anyone see any issues? No climate controls at all yet either.. Yes, the light is hanging off a guitar strap... shhhh
I also just realized yesterday that after I order the kit, I'm still gonna have to cook the soil etc for a month before using it.. so I guess it'll be early Dec at the earliest before I'm able to start with it. Bummer man. Also learned that since they took height restrictions out of legislation here in Canada, the tradeoff there was a max of 4 plants per house instead of 4 per person per house... double bummer.
But here's some pics of my starter, temp veg area anyways, backyard soil only test run! Aside from maybe lining it w/ white poly, and it's kind of small (though we may only be able to do 2 veg 2 flower, might work out ok) anyone see any issues? No climate controls at all yet either.. Yes, the light is hanging off a guitar strap... shhhh
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Cheers Head! I’m not spending that much on it. I found another source (and that other option turned out to be the wrong species anyway).Not to steer you in a different direction..but to be honest, the dunks barely made a difference regarding my gnat population. They could have helped I suppose (they probably did a bit), but my observations clearly favored the dry mulch/sticky traps/direct flow from fan over the dunks! If they were only $10-15 a bottle I'd say go for it, but $100 is insane to spend on some BTI. Ig what im saying is I'm not sure they're worth that! Good luck gettimg rid of them
Well I hope it makes a difference. It’s weird bc I can’t see a lot, amd the sticky trap has caught a few... but they’re still doing a little damage - so causing stress - so I figure I’ll eradicate if I can. And Dic mad others have success with the BT
Did you get rid of yours eventually?
Cheers Head! I’m not spending that much on it. I found another source (and that other option turned out to be the wrong species anyway).
Well I hope it makes a difference. It’s weird bc I can’t see a lot, amd the sticky trap has caught a few... but they’re still doing a little damage - so causing stress - so I figure I’ll eradicate if I can. And Dic mad others have success with the BT
Did you get rid of yours eventually?
Amy,
Is your plant, that’s under attack by the gnats, in a dedicated grow room, or tent inside? I ask bc I understand you have outside plants too that you care for.
I know it is not feasible for all, but for what it’s worth, I enter my sealed indoor grow room once, occasionally twice a day. I set the schedules so I enter just after lights on, which is usually after my “get home from work shower”. In the past I realized my work in my outside garden and orchard contaminated me with potential pests, or more probable their eggs/ larvae, which I would, unbeknownst to me, contaminate my indoor garden, if I entered without changing. I’ve even now spray the floors that I walk to my indoor garden once a week with 10:1 bleach/h2o solution for peace of mind. So far, the thrips are the only thing I deal with every 8 months and their easy to knock down.
Maybe the gnats are not living in the soil of your plant, but are finding their way there from some other host medium.
Just trying to throw helpful ideas your way to ponder. Your plant looks great, but I understand your desire for perfection!
Take care
DL