Do we need to pH adjust our nutrient solutions?

So you waterd with your regular nutes, waited an hour, and added just enough distilled water to get 1.5 ounces of water? I don't remember that part.
I'll answer this then we can jump to my grow journal.
For now, there were extra steps because of my autopots. I first shutoff the reservoir feed and vacuumed out the trays with a shop vac, then I flushed the media with RO water because with autopots salt builds up in the top layer of the growing medium. This is normal, but it would kill the plants if not completely flushed out until the EC of runoff during the flushing is within a normal range. For example, my runoff was 4.8ec. Then I vacuumed the trays again and ran regular nutes through, waited an hour, ect.. to get the pour through reading, which was 4.5ph.
 
Greetings all! I recently had a running email conversation with the "Grower Services & Product Development Director" at ProMix (aka Premier Tech). I began the conversation by posting a question on their website, asking if I should be treating ProMix HP as soil or soil-less when mixing nutrients.

[Please note that we were not discussing hydro growing. This conversation does not apply to hydro.]

As we have all been taught, the pH range for nutrients is different for soil and soil-less media and I had been using the soil range in my ProMix and wanted to double check. His response left me confused, as he answered the question by giving me the ideal pH range for mineral soil and soil-less growing media. He did not address my question of the correct pH of the nutrient mix.

We went back and forth for a few days and his answers always referred to the pH of the media and not what we were pouring into the media. I kept trying to narrow my question and he continued in the same vein. I contained my exasperation so as not to short circuit the chain.

At one point he said this:
"It is the potential acidity or basicity of the fertilizer chemistry and the alkalinity content of your water that affects the pH of the growing medium. For the fertilizers, it is called ‘potential’ since it is determined by the chemistry and the quantity of fertilizer nutrients that are applied and the ‘potential’ they have to interact with the plant root system and influence the pH of the growing medium up or down."

All related to the medium. And the interesting use of the word "potential," but again ended it by talking about moving the pH of the growing medium.

Rather than bore you with the all back and forth, I will post this summary that I sent him in one of our last emails. He approved of this summary (italics mine):

1. Ideal pH range for mineral soil is 6.0-6.5. Soil-less growing media, such as PRO-MIX, have an ideal pH range of 5.5-6.0.

2. However, pH of nutrient water is irrelevant to the pH of any soil or growing media. It is the alkalinity of nutrient water and the potential acidity/basicity of the fertilizer(s) that influence the pH of the growing medium and root zone. For example, if the alkalinity of nutrient water is moderate or high, pH of growing medium will rise over time.
a. Plant roots are electrically charged and must maintain a neutral balance.​
b. For ammonium nitrogen (NH4) fertilizers, plants release of hydrogen ions to take up NH4. Hydrogen released is essentially acid and this drives pH down.​
c. For nitrate (NO3) form of nitrogen in fertilizers, plant exchange hydroxyl ions for NO3 uptake, which causes growing medium pH to rise.​
d. Alkalinity (CACO3) is essentially dissolved limestone. The higher the alkalinity of water, the greater tendency to raise pH of growing medium over time.​

3. It is more important to keep track of the pH of the growing medium than the pH of the nutrient solution we feed the plants.

And at the bottom of that summary I added one last direct question:
"If I’m growing in ProMix HP and I mix up the nutrient solution and it reads 7.4 pH, it is not necessary for me to adjust that number down using phosphoric acid or the like. I can pour it into the pot at 7.4 and my plants will be able to uptake those nutrients?"

His response was a direct "Yes."

o_O

-----------------------------------
We had discussions on the correct way to check the pH of soil or soil-less medium (none involved checking our nute runoff:)). I'll post the various methods he sent me in a different thread and post a link here. I don't want to distract from the info above!
Hi shed, just saw this from your signature and ive spoken to emilya about the medium that im using which majority is peat moss and sphagnum peat but this shines another light on this topic. With me using this medium would 6.3 ph be too high?
 
Hi shed, just saw this from your signature and ive spoken to emilya about the medium that im using which majority is peat moss and sphagnum peat but this shines another light on this topic. With me using this medium would 6.3 ph be too high?

"If I’m growing in ProMix HP and I mix up the nutrient solution and it reads 7.4 pH, it is not necessary for me to adjust that number down using phosphoric acid or the like. I can pour it into the pot at 7.4 and my plants will be able to uptake those nutrients?"

His response was a direct "Yes."

If your medium isn't buffered then it doesn't apply to you.
Peat on it's own is low pH and not great to grow in so chances are your medium is buffered and 6.3 pH would be fine.
 
If your medium isn't buffered then it doesn't apply to you.
Peat on it's own is low pH and not great to grow in so chances are your medium is buffered and 6.3 pH would be fine.
Im lost when it comes to knowing about soils lol what does buffered mean?
 
The soil has way more buffer than the nutrient solution. If the soil is pH 5.5 and you add a nutrient solution with a pH of 7.6 the soil pH will still be 5.5. The acidity of the peat and the alkalinity of the lime are way more than what is contained in the nutrient solution.

Don't do ammonia!
 
Hi shed, just saw this from your signature and ive spoken to emilya about the medium that im using which majority is peat moss and sphagnum peat but this shines another light on this topic. With me using this medium would 6.3 ph be too high?
What Regrowth said is correct, so the question is are you using a peat-based mix like ProMix or Sunshine Mix #4 or just peat?
Im lost when it comes to knowing about soils lol what does buffered mean?
Soilless peat blends are buffered with lime at the factory and the pH of the medium is set to 5.5-5.8. Commercially made soil is also buffered, in the 6.3 - 6.8 range. Buffering is the addition of lime or other elements to adjust the pH of the medium to the correct range for growing in that medium.
 
What Regrowth said is correct, so the question is are you using a peat-based mix like ProMix or Sunshine Mix #4 or just peat?

Soilless peat blends are buffered with lime at the factory and the pH of the medium is set to 5.5-5.8. Commercially made soil is also buffered, in the 6.3 - 6.8 range. Buffering is the addition of lime or other elements to adjust the pH of the medium to the correct range for growing in that medium.
Thanks for explaining it more clearly. Im not sure if it says on the bag about the ph. I do know that it just consists of peat moss, sphagnum peat and perlite. Do I still have to ph the nutes?
 
What Regrowth said is correct, so the question is are you using a peat-based mix like ProMix or Sunshine Mix #4 or just peat?

Soilless peat blends are buffered with lime at the factory and the pH of the medium is set to 5.5-5.8. Commercially made soil is also buffered, in the 6.3 - 6.8 range. Buffering is the addition of lime or other elements to adjust the pH of the medium to the correct range for growing in that medium.
I love this site everyday I learn something new ❤️. Thanks Shed.
 
If you Google that it says on their website it's pH balanced, so you do not need to pH your nutes.

If you were using straight peat, all the pH adjusting of your nutes wouldn't help since peat's pH is in the 4s, way to low for growing cannabis.
Thanks for clearing that up shed I did ask emilya about it before also I just wasnt 100% so thankyou both. Legends
 
If you Google that it says on their website it's pH balanced, so you do not need to pH your nutes.

If you were using straight peat, all the pH adjusting of your nutes wouldn't help since peat's pH is in the 4s, way to low for growing cannabis.
Truth is I never ph my nutes but I do always check the temperature for prime oxygen temperature.
 
I don’t pH, just fill my 5 gallon water cooler jugs the night before with well water so it can come to temp, add calmag of required wait 15mins, add nutes wait another 15 after a good stir.

I’ve noticed a full strength feed drops the pH at least a full point. 7.5 at tap, with nutes about 6.3.
Ive had mine drop even lower to like 4.8. I guess this depends what nute line you use. I use biobizz bottled organics
 
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