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The pH of the water does not change the pH of the media. The akalinity of the water does and the higher the akalinity the faster the pH rises in the media. In most cases the pH of the media will increase over time.I would think adjusting your nute / water content pH would help keep the soil pH in the correct range longer.
And as long as that growing medium has buffering abilities the medium will self-adjust to maintain it's pH way more than long enough to last a grow (as long as you water enough that at least 20% comes out the bottom).The pH of the water does not change the pH of the media. The akalinity of the water does and the higher the akalinity the faster the pH rises in the media. In most cases the pH of the media will increase over time.
So let's assume that most growers have a good water supply and their akalinity is considered normal. What other factor(s) can cause the pH to change in the media?
The most common factor would be the basicity or acidity of the fertilizer in use. The effect that a fertilizer has on media pH is dependent on the reactions that take place after the fertilizer has been applied to the crop. This reaction is determined by the nutrients (especially nitrogen) contained in the fertilizer, rather than the pH of the fertilizer solution that you can measure with a pH meter. The potential acidity or basicity should be interpreted as a general tendency of the fertilizer to raise or lower the media pH over time.
Maybe that clears things up a bit Buds.
The pH of the water does not change the pH of the media.
So if the water & nutes isn't changing it then what is ?In most cases the pH of the media will increase over time.
Well the basicity or the acidity of the fertilizer will change the pH of the media over time. I tried to nail it all down in a small post here:So if the water & nutes isn't changing it then what is ?
When you say Fertilizer are you referring to the nutes you add ? This may be what's confusing me.Well the basicity or the acidity of the fertilizer will change the pH of the media over time
Sorry Buds, yes you are correct on that. You use Megacrop as your fertilizer. Here's a sample shot of using 2g of MC in 1 gallon of water. It shows the PPM of N and broken down into it's two forms, NO3- and NH4+.When you say Fertilizer are you referring to the nutes you add ? This may be what's confusing me.
Its ability to buffer runs out eventually because you are not replenishing it as it occurs in nature or like a farmer does each planting season.So if the water & nutes isn't changing it then what is ?
No you wouldn't have to adjust it. If the pH in the media kept rising then a grower would look to a fertilizer that may have a lower NO3 and a higher NH4 which would allow the pH to maintain it's correct range for nutrient uptake. If the akalinity of your water was naturally high then a lower NO3 and a higher NH4 would be ideal. In most cases you won't even think about this. The point being the pH of the water (nute solution) does not effect the pH in the media. The basicity or acidity of the fetilizer and the akalinity of the water all affect the pH in the media.So you have to adjust your Nitrates or whatever in your Fertilizer to maintain the correct pH in the soil ?
I kind of get what you're saying. But when you adjust the nutrient mix by pH-ing it, aren't you adjusting the Acidity or Alkalinity of the nutes ?No you wouldn't have to adjust it. If the pH in the media kept rising then a grower would look to a fertilizer that may have a lower NO3 and a higher NH4 which would allow the pH to maintain it's correct range for nutrient uptake. If the akalinity of your water was naturally high then a lower NO3 and a higher NH4 would be ideal. In most cases you won't even think about this. The point being the pH of the water (nute solution) does not effect the pH in the media. The basicity or acidity of the fetilizer and the akalinity of the water all affect the pH in the media.
Yes you are, but you can adjust the pH to 11.6 as Alvin mentioned but a buffered media is going to bring it back into range.But when you adjust the nutrient mix by pH-ing it, aren't you adjusting the Acidity or Alkalinity of the nutes ?
Which is why it is pointless to pH in a soiled (or other buffered mediums) grow.Yes you are, but you can adjust the pH to 11.6 as Alvin mentioned but a buffered media is going to bring it back into range.
Unless you are making your own soil mixture you do not need to know what does it just that these commercially available growing mediums previously mentioned do it.Guess I need to study soil buffers & what they do to better understand this. Thing is, I don't know which things in the soil are the buffers other than Lime.
Thanks for the info. I'll check it out. So all these soil buffers do is keep pH in range or do they serve other purposes ?Unless you are making your own soil mixture you do not need to know what does it just that these commercially available growing mediums previously mentioned do it.
Definition: Soil buffering is the ability of the soil to stop nutrient or pH changes by absorption. For soils, it is the capability of absorbing nutrients and also releasing them (cation exchange capacity). Humic acids and clay minerals have good buffer qualities.
Or here is a link to even more
Thanks for the info. I'll check it out. So all these soil buffers do is keep pH in range or do they serve other purposes ?
The definition of soil buffering helped me understand a little more.
However, I am a person who has to test everything for himself to believe in it 100%. But I get the idea of what it's suppose to do. Now to see 1st hand if it does what it's suppose to. Give some others who may have doubts a chance to see what happens too.
It seems to me that only in the last year have I heard anyone on a grow website say you don't have to pH & you don't have to flush. I can't believe everyone was wrong for over 100 years. I was taught to do both when I started 3.5 years ago.
However, one of my mentors (Emilya) now seems to agree with you guys. Not sure what's changed.
I'm skeptical.
For those that disagree with all of this may I suggest you obtain a basic Agronomy textbook. Here is one from the Internet Archive (it's public domain):
Textbook of Soil Science
by R. K. Mehra
This book will explain this stuff much more in-depth.Textbook of Soil Science : R. K. Mehra : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive
First Printed: June 2004Sixth Reprint: August 2017archive.org
Personally I've gone to Kelp4Less nutes. They are reasonably priced (it's dry so you don't pay to ship water) easy to use and as long as your water is good (like my well) there is no need to pH.
That was the bro science of the day. What they failed to mention is they were adding quicklime to make the bodies decay faster .Three skinny criminals if you need to add calcium to the soil