DIY SIPs Duterte's Nightmare - Mystery S. Asia Sativa - Zkittlz, Runtz, OG UV, God's Gift, GG#4, 1st Grow In 20yrs

@farside05 I've certainly noticed in journals/ other contemporaneous writings that, in the last two years, all the single ratio Jacks etc growers bumped up their K numbers 10-15 percent. My slurry still tests ec 1.1-2, down from 1.3, but don't feel like I can strengthen my ppms in rez.

Really, my animating concern with this grow/ and salts in SIPs has been retention and then throwing a blockage as result. I figured some strong castings and a weak rez might get me through w/o flushing. However, if a single preventative flush were thought to be all I needed to get through, then that I would do readily.

I suppose flushing water through the mix from the top would be most effective... What if I were to block the overflow instead and fill rez with clean water, permitting water level in rez to rise into the bottom 6 inches of soil, where all the nute is anyway? I can have an air pump going to make sure I don't drown plants.

This fear of retention triggered lockout is really why I have low strength salts nute rez. and organic amendments in sunshine mix.

@Buds Buddy made the switch to sips a grow ago and had good results. He's switching over even more of his grow op now. He may be able to address your concerns better. I doubt I'll ever go that route or full hydro. For my space and setup I need my plants to be easily mobile. For the same reason I'll likely never use a scrog net either.

PS, crunched some numbers. 278.2g of Muriate of Potash (Potassium Chloride) combined with a gallon of Distilled water makes a solution that is 10 ppm of K for every ml dosed.
 
When I abandoned my DWC grow it was hard knowing a was delaying the day I’d finally get some smoke but not too bad.

@Rexer my temps only got to 71f, but summer heat was yet to arrive and my air con doesn’t impact that room much without relocating. To mitigate I used ex large reservoir and installed a computer fan over a plant site hole to do like aquarium evap cooling (thus also the 27 gal res). I might have been fine, oh and I have Hydroguard, but did not feel the time, first grow, that to chance it was right…. and some major personal, family health and financial crisis entered picture suddenly at same time. So I went for the ultimate, but arcane, low maint method. Let’s talk about it again later, thank you for your interest and info, I look forward to discussing.


The first 5x5 was erected in a 10x5 space. This room/tent is setup for co2 enrichment, from two sources, one is a straightforward 20lb tank/reg/controller setup, the other are pails of fermenting fruits, later to become wine, in otherwise airtight containers with a airline running inside tent capped w/ bubbler vents or one-way filters.

I’m also venting my KNF fermenting fertilizers into the tent all to support the bottled system which will last much longer when co2 is already 800ppm up from 400.


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You can see in pic how awkward the setup is. You’re looking through a doorway, half is entrance to tent, half into lungroom, and there’s a step down by 4’ that makes things pretty really damned awkward (f#<¥ing dangerous).

Each tent has automated HVAC and the same 1000w Kingbrite bar light. The Burn Unit here however is the only one to have a co2 setup, that’s what the green Inkbird is, a controller for a 20lb bottle. I’ve managed to go from 400ppm to 800 by just venting co2 from fermenting grapes (wine) and fermenting bamboo fertilizers (controller also makes for a basic monitor) You don’t get many features with the Inkbird b/c it’s quite basic but at time of purchase the next level up was $400-500 and I didn’t want to pay that, this unit cost $200-$225. A regulator is another. C note and the tank was used but still another $100, filled.

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Oh fer foxsakes, is it nice to have a tent with access that doesn’t make you feel like you’re on a Kazakhstanian space station.

We’re all SIPs in here too with an addition to test against the other design. Here the plastics are mostly the same however a 10 gallon Geopot for each plant has been placed in the totes on top of the wicking foot. Don’t worry, design pics are coming if you’re new to SIPs or curious about my execution, because there are some unique features here.

Plants in the back are part of the Mom patrol (that’s Karen on far left. Beside her is Karen. The yellow BS is Karen and the smaller greenie is named Karen). in this pic two Gorrilla Glue #4 (bushy af) on left, two banana sundae on the right. The BS were yanked from my garden on the day when 12 hrs seperated sunset and sunrise, to keep them from flowering. They had been expected to expire when rudely dropped in small depression in the veg bed a month ago. Thankfully the day is still young, and they could still meet their maker any moment. Actually, these two have some potential so it’s Mom Patrol for them, and back upstairs to the attic along with the 2 gg4, where they’ll join two God’s Gift (more white middle class suburbanites more indica hybrids)
I like the idea of a big reservoir, but not with 2 plants in it side by side. Can't really grow a big plant with them being that close I would think. I haven't tried it though. Just a thought that crossed my mind.
I'm not sure I can really be of much help. It sounds like you make a lot of your own nutes so to speak & I use stuff from a bag or a bottle. It also sounds like you are more on the organic side of things. When it comes to organics I just use SoHum Super Soil & Re-Charge since I use Tap Water.
You're probably a mile ahead of me on nutrient knowledge. I've never looked into any of that. I do use nute calculations, but they were given to me by @InTheShed . I wish I had more Free Time to study this stuff, but I barely find time to sleep as it is. Always something that has to get done. I'll keep reading your journal till I see what your issue is... just in case.
 
I like the idea of a big reservoir, but not with 2 plants in it side by side. Can't really grow a big plant with them being that close I would think. I haven't tried it though. Just a thought that crossed my mind.
I'm not sure I can really be of much help. It sounds like you make a lot of your own nutes so to speak & I use stuff from a bag or a bottle. It also sounds like you are more on the organic side of things. When it comes to organics I just use SoHum Super Soil & Re-Charge since I use Tap Water.
You're probably a mile ahead of me on nutrient knowledge. I've never looked into any of that. I do use nute calculations, but they were given to me by @InTheShed . I wish I had more Free Time to study this stuff, but I barely find time to sleep as it is. Always something that has to get done. I'll keep reading your journal till I see what your issue is... just in case.
Thanx for the visit Bugs. I enjoyed your journal, thank you for sharing. I'm going to try to do all those things with 1. strong, well-working dollies under every container abd2. an independent scrog affixed to container that looks like the picture from above, in scale, is larger than container opening and positions plant toward outside, where there is room. Already started with 90 elbows below 1st nodule on one, and aggressive training on all.

If you do the pots in 7 gal and lift them 3x week you can shuffle indiv. all you wish.

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I'm not sure I can really be of much help. It sounds like you make a lot of your own nutes so to speak & I use stuff from a bag or a bottle. It also sounds like you are more on the organic side of things. When it comes to organics I just use SoHum Super Soil & Re-Charge since I use Tap Water.

Pretty sure he's using MC 2-part and Sunshine Mix #4 with some amendments, so not too far off from what you're doing with Super Soil and MC 1-part. Did you run into any lockout issues or did you flush at any time during your run? I think that's what he's wanting to know most of all.
 
No, Buds, I actually use Mega Crop 2 part in the reservoir. Thing is, there is a threat of retaining nutrient in promix/sunshine mix/peatperlite such that can cause a toxicity, and so I am using a low PPM MC 2 part feed and a wormcasting, silica, sm all other amendments mixed into the promix (actually SS#4) in hope of avoiding. I have created two methods of a flush, that could be done once easily as a preventative, say after transition, but I'd obviously rather plug on instead. If I knew the prophylactic flush would absolve me, I'd start right away. Looking for someone to help me with that decision.
 
Pretty sure he's using MC 2-part and Sunshine Mix #4 with some amendments, so not too far off from what you're doing with Super Soil and MC 1-part. Did you run into any lockout issues or did you flush at any time during your run? I think that's what he's wanting to know most of all.
Never Flushed. About 1/2 way through flower leaves started yellowing really fast. Seems to have started from the top down so I'm guessing it was a K def. I tried a 0-15-15 Bloom Booster but it didn't seem to help. Someone had said that because I was adding Cal-Mag that the Mg. in it could cause a K Lockout. Not really sure as I don't know if there was too much Mg. or not. They changed the MC again too. No longer 9-6-17. Now it's 9-6-14. I was using calculations for 9-6-17 because I hadn't noticed the change.
 
No, Buds, I actually use Mega Crop 2 part in the reservoir. Thing is, there is a threat of retaining nutrient in promix/sunshine mix/peatperlite such that can cause a toxicity, and so I am using a low PPM MC 2 part feed and a wormcasting, silica, sm all other amendments mixed into the promix (actually SS#4) in hope of avoiding. I have created two methods of a flush, that could be done once easily as a preventative, say after transition, but I'd obviously rather plug on instead. If I knew the prophylactic flush would absolve me, I'd start right away. Looking for someone to help me with that decision.
Only time I ever Flush is if I get a toxicity. Best way to get rid of it if you ask me. I don't check ppm too often but I think even at 5.5 gr. per gal. it's only about 850 ppm. I pretty much just go by leaf color or leaf reaction to determine what a plant needs. I tried growing in a soil that was similar to Pro-Mix a few years ago (Bio-Biz I think it was called). I had terrible luck with it. Most plants died as seedlings on me. Switched to FFOF & never had a problem so I've stayed with it. I've heard good things about Sunshine Mix #4 but haven't tried it. I'm kind of locked in on things that I found work best for me. For now it's Mars Hydro TS Series lights & FFOF Soil. Not so happy with MC these days, so maybe I'll find something better. Thinking about trying the Fox Farms line up or Jacks. After this grow, I'll know if "SIP Buckets" are another thing I'll be locked in on.
 
They changed the MC again too. No longer 9-6-17. Now it's 9-6-14. I was using calculations for 9-6-17 because I hadn't noticed the change.
Consider the MC 2 part, Buds. It's an elemental ratio that's a copy of Jack's, with the same 5-12-26. Then you buy Cal Ni from them or elsewhere as your 2nd part. It's the best turnkey salts fert mix before going fully custom in my limited but intense experience. The flexibility is great. Differences to Jack's are: MC uses amino acids for chelate and not edta and other synth. chelates. I know now that these chelates are being found in bad places in the natural ecosystem, so as long as this stuff keeps working, I'm very appreciative of tossing the synth chelates. The MC jack's copy also has some magnesium on board, enough for most heavy to avg. hard water grows it appears, but I toss in .5g per gal. It also has silica in mix but I forget how it arrives, salicylic acid I think. Regardless, I add more. There are some "not the usual" salts in MC in their effort to provide same req'd elements from multiple sources. *sigh* I guess I'll be the guinea pig. Will need help y'all!
But I'm convinced that it is that air gap that is the true secret to the success if these things. When I build mine I make them with two fill tubes to try to maximize that air space.
It absolutely is. My plants even present differently, radically differently, when I reduce that space significantly. They start to look more and more like overwatered plants within 10 minutes. Not exaggerating. Guess I should illustrate it. Damn.
Ah, a tantalizing glimpse of the famous RD fabric-pot-in-a-tote SIP system! :love: What's your avg. yield?
If you're talking tomatoes, which I know you aren't, over 90 pieces per, and not cherry tomatoes. This is my (sorta) first personal 420 grow after an epic tolerance-break, of two decades! This spring I built a DWC setup that I took down for life and family reasons but went immed to SIPs on return because there's chance I go to hospital or, or, or... and I was worried summer temps would wreck my rez. Was always going to do both, just changed which was first. Still keen to run a dwc asap. I have everything built, bought and DIY'd together so....
 
Ok so, I’m am currently running two SIP designs both with the 27 gallon footprint (same as my DWC)

And a word about extraneous materials and technology. Air pumps, aquarium pumps, Venturi’s, etc are on here as experimental extras completely unneeded to, in my current opinion, grow showstopper weed this way. All the extras are about fitting it all into my unusual life.
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One 27 gal with the hole’s top edge 1 1/4 inch below where planned planter floor to sit. It’s 3/4” ID PVC I use for drain hole.

Next is a 17 gal tote with holes drilled for contact with net pot and atop reservoir for O2. Burlap only there to better illustrate. It will be used on planter floor bottom but I do not recommend. It’s rotted away in a month. I know because I opened up 2 of the canna sips I was working as noted earlier in the thread.
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this net pot is strong enough not to need further floor support and the nesting rims of totes carry good deal weight also. Very sturdy design.
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With net cup in place nesting the totes gets you this:
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Then do this (but not with natural fibres). Don’t worry, a need for slowing the capillary action of the water is what your more likely to face. I used landscape cloth rated 3 yrs. I’ll continue in a new post….

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I put a plastic divider down the center of one SIP, because I was planning to grow two plants in each. Still do.... however, I found some non-SIP related issues in this original tent when I put my second 5x5 up and was seeing radically different results. I realized that my lung room was not keeping my first tent, (heretofore called "The Burn Unit") supplied with 'air' when my extraction was high - my AC Infinity 6" with controller 67 auto-managed heat with wicked-efficient extraction. All my tent/lungroom numbers were right, but because of the room's shape, having been sealed for cO2, it just wasn't working properly even with the tent 'door' open to an adjoining space. Anyway, long story.
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So when I finished the second tent, one that extracts only into large, same room as itself, I set out to reset The Burn Unit and go with the 10 gal geopots just like tent#2 design. Still will have Co2, just have a automated intake fan and ducting now. Have all the materials, I think, and am resetting the tent now, with a few different options for plants.
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I keep a harem in my white-walled w/ skylights and shop LED lights, attic. Currently I’m installing a kiddie pool up there that will have a few inches of fertigation and moms will sit on sections of 4” perforated drainpipe filled with sand/gravel that keep them above waterline yet wick them water on demand. Pond will be covered with panda and evap drain into reservoir. Plants will be in 3 gal soft pots and ferts low as I dare, I guess. Will prob have to shave an inch off the bottom of the rootball every few months to keep them manageable. That’ll be interesting, SIP moms.

Everyone’s suggestions or questions are adored. And usually save me from myself, so please, you are all most 🤗
 
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