DIY-Become a DIY home grower Electrical Engineers

LMAO yea I'm all set. I would rather spend the 200 on a 50' cord. At the moment I am set back because im trying to get a car and its like apt hunting! Sh!t sucks!!! Believe me guys I would not listen to that suggestion way to much work for me than buying a cord and tacking it up. Not that ignorant I would not leave the cord to be stepped on, closed in doors etc when it will be critical to my grow setup.
 
I suggest that you refrain from giving out advice on this topic. The information you are disseminating is not only false, but dangerous. People's lives and property are in the balance when it comes to electrical. Not to mention that every fire that is grow house related gives the opposition something to point at when casting dispersions on the Cannabis industry.

well said HD!! Thats the scary thing about threads like this, lots of peeps think they are electricians or know it alls about electricity and can give fatal advice. If you want to make sure someones advice in this thread is correct, get a few of us to verify it before you act on it.

You can also check your local Hydro shops to see if they have mj friendly electricians that they know of. I have business cards in the ones here, I have seen alot of nightmare DIY jobs that I have fixed up and made safe for my fellow growers. Be safe all!! :grinjoint:
 
well said HD!! Thats the scary thing about threads like this, lots of peeps think they are electricians or know it alls about electricity and can give fatal advice. If you want to make sure someones advice in this thread is correct, get a few of us to verify it before you act on it.

You can also check your local Hydro shops to see if they have mj friendly electricians that they know of. I have business cards in the ones here, I have seen alot of nightmare DIY jobs that I have fixed up and made safe for my fellow growers. Be safe all!! :grinjoint:

:smokin:
 
I've been reading up a little on this and I'm wondering if a bedroom with a AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) would need a GFCI outlet?

as far as code? No
article 210.8(A) 1-8
1-bathrooms
2-garages
3-outdoors
4-crawl spaces
5-unfinished basements
6-kitchens
7-laundry,utility, and wet bar sinks
8-boathouses

If you are asking about personal protection because you have a hydro set up in the bedroom, I would add the gfci recepticle, AFCI`s only protect against parallel arch faults, CH makes a combo AFCI/GFCI breaker now and I`m guessing those will be the norm soon in new dwelling units, peace!
 
I do not know why arc fault breakers are being used in homes with low voltage. My experience is in industry. I do agree that you need to have Ground Fault protection though. Not just with hydro, but with soil.
 
Does NE one know how comparable the difference would be using 800W of CFL and 800W of HID? Does running a HID cost more and use more watts is my question. I have been thinking about using HID and CFL but to avoid heat issues and possible suspicion from being detected by Heat Radar what would be the best idea? I have been thinking about using the IR blocker (google it) just wana make sure the setup I am planning on wont be putting my security at risk and if its best to stick with CFL to avoid heat detection and worrying about venting all that heat. I know this is a tad off topic but the watts part deff has some to do with electricity and the best way to get ur Bang for ur buck lol.
 
The only thing I can tell you for sure is that 800W of CFL's will generate some heat, especially if in a small space like a grow cabinet. You will still need some venting, maybe just not as much, maybe.

And the power company doesn't care what kind of light you run, 800W will cost you your normal rate for 800W, CLF or HID.
 
Does NE one know how comparable the difference would be using 800W of CFL and 800W of HID? Does running a HID cost more and use more watts is my question. I have been thinking about using HID and CFL but to avoid heat issues and possible suspicion from being detected by Heat Radar what would be the best idea? I have been thinking about using the IR blocker (google it) just wana make sure the setup I am planning on wont be putting my security at risk and if its best to stick with CFL to avoid heat detection and worrying about venting all that heat. I know this is a tad off topic but the watts part deff has some to do with electricity and the best way to get ur Bang for ur buck lol.

This is more of a lighting question than an electrical question, but you do pay for watts from the power company. A watt is a watt whether HID or CFL. I will say this, you get a hell of a lot more lumens per watt from CFL, they are way more efficient. Another thing, you will generally not create a noticeable heat signature nor have to pump as much heat out of your grow with CFLs.

Here is a very comprehensive thread by Roseman about the benefits of using CFLs. CFL Light Tutorial

There are many benefits to using CFLs, heat is one, higher bang for your buck in wattage is another. And if you do it right you can get some nice tight buds. You look at a grow space with CFLs and you will see there is a lot of light. They are great and I am a huge advocate.

Yes you will create some heat. In most cases you do not need to run AC just because of CFLs. In fact you do not need to even move that much air at all. Read Roseman's thread and all your questions will be answered there.

One down side with CFLs if you have to move the lights around and fool around with them more. If you do not mind fooling around with the lights you will prefer them.
 
Believe me I have read the CFL thread was one of the first threads I took the time to sort through. Just wanted to get some opinion since heat seems to be a possible issue for me. I dont mind playing with the lights @ all. I have seen a journal or two with people getting 13OZ from 4 plants using CFL's which has started to convince me that they would be a better fit for my OP rather then HID. I have a 600W MH and HPS bulb but have no way for fresh air to enter the grow space other than installing an AC. I was going to use some High Tech Garden Supply After installing the AC in the window and some in the Tent But if CFL's dont emit that much of a heat signature then I was thinking to stick with them and LED's.
 
I agree with G-Dog and Green, there will be heat. All depends on size of grow room, and wattage of the lights.

My one closet grow 2'x4' with 6 85 watt cfls gets too warm without venting, around 83 to 97. I can vent enough into the room and keep it 71 to 86. Though it is a lot cooler than a 400 watt HID.

Prairie
 
Just wanted some feed back. whats your take on running the proper gauge wire straight from the box to a couple of outlets without using any conduit. I want to just run the wire along the exterior of the wall and secure it sufficiently along the perimeter of the room?

The problem with Romex is that is not protected against every day wear and tear that an exposed cord would be. There are cables that are UV protected and direct burial that may be better suited. Harder than hell to work with, but a better choice.

As professionals, on an open online publication, if we were to tell you that it was safe to do that we would be chastised by the other professionals on the board.

Is it safe? Well if everything goes perfectly it is. What happens is that installations built to code burn down every day. Things manufactured in bulk in China malfunction and shock or electrocute people. Codes keep getting stricter and stricter in time because of these things. Do low voltage residential homes need arc flash interrupters? I don't think so, but according to the numbers the codes have started requiring them.

You could run your Romex at the proper gauge on the exterior of your wall and probably wont have a problem. Some kid riding a tricycle could spill on it and short it out and get killed or start a fire and who would you blame? That old electrical engineer on the website that said it was okay probably.


Part of being a professional is knowing all the rules and knowing when to break them, knowing the consequences when you do break them and knowing all the other details that surround the installation to watch for to keep unfortunate things from happening.


In a short you probably could run that installation the way you described and never have a problem. If you do have a problem though, you will be answerable for it.

It is usually not that hard to find a crawl space under your home or attic, run wires down walls and mimic the original wiring. I have done it a thousand times.
 
Just wanted some feed back. whats your take on running the proper gauge wire straight from the box to a couple of outlets without using any conduit. I want to just run the wire along the exterior of the wall and secure it sufficiently along the perimeter of the room?

I've got to side with G-Dog here. Not that I am telling you to do it, but if you do, another possibility is BX armored cable. It wouldn't be as vulnerable as exposed romex....
 
schedule 80 pvc is cheap and they have 90`s, conduit bodies and J-box`s for it (the grey pvc) strap it with one hole straps and alls good, 3/4 pvc can hold 12-2 romex, romex in conduit isnt code but for you it will be fine.
 
I've got to side with G-Dog here. Not that I am telling you to do it, but if you do, another possibility is BX armored cable. It wouldn't be as vulnerable as exposed romex....

Looked into yhe BX Armored cable. Definently a good/safer option. I just checked it out online, not at the actual store. I have a couple questions:

1. I saw there is a special cutter sold for the cable, is it necessary?
2. Cost wise how does it compare with Romex?:peacetwo:
 
schedule 80 pvc is cheap and they have 90`s, conduit bodies and J-box`s for it (the grey pvc) strap it with one hole straps and alls good, 3/4 pvc can hold 12-2 romex, romex in conduit isnt code but for you it will be fine.

I like the idea but I will be wiring 8 boxes off of 8 breakers. I'm concerned about the pain in the ass it will be to fish all that wire?:peacetwo:
 
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